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Sagebrush posted:*0.010 of an inch It's laser-marked with .004 0.10 mm but it actually measures 0.23 or 0.24 mm depending on how careful I'm being (which is not very because I've decided it's trash.) Several of the others are actually spot-on (0.28 mm, 0.30 mm) but not all. Looks like the 0.10 mm is by far the worst offender though. They're years old and came from Princess Auto (which is basically Canada's Harbor Freight)
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Apr 28, 2021 22:59
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Ran into this interesting tip on the Siraya Tech FB group for successfully casting RTV silicones into UV resin molds; anybody heard of this, or understand the ostensible chemistry behind it? it sounds so much easier/more convenient than having to clear-coat the silicone-contacting faces of any models you wanna cast off of. Huh, that's interesting. I cast silicone in an SLA-printed mold exactly once and all I did was apply some universal release agent (which I am not sure I even needed to do, but I'm barely even a novice when it comes to casting.)
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May 4, 2021 05:02
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Sagebrush posted:I have not heard of that but I am very interested, because I've done some casting into SLA-printed molds as an experiment and it totally inhibited the cure and left a pile of snot. What resin did you use that this happened? The only ones I did were using formlabs' white (and grey also, I think.) I don't recall having any issues, the smooth-on stuff worked like the package said is about all I remember.
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May 4, 2021 05:10
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That looks loving wild as an art project. Nice. I also have a model where no matter what I do, PrusaSlicer absolutely wants to put supports all the way down to the build plate when I really just want supports in one tiny area, supporting a bridged area. I just went  on it as I put the project on the back burner for a while, but I can't help but wonder if it's a bit related.
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May 7, 2021 01:02
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Dr. Fishopolis posted:That fuckin rules. Are you gonna do any post-processing? I wonder if a coat of resin would improve the transparency? A coat of resin is risks interfering with the UV transparency, so be careful!
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May 7, 2021 18:00
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Yes but do you still have all your fingers? 
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May 7, 2021 22:08
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Sockser posted:I am losing my loving mind right now at how well this is working I love this.
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May 8, 2021 03:38
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I was considering filling a print's insides with resin, but I am a bit worried about the heat it would give off as it cures & worried it would distort the dimensions or something as a result of getting soft as it heats up. Has anyone been-there-done-that for infusing prints with resin for added strength? Any concerns about the heat from curing being a problem?
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May 19, 2021 05:50
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Resin and plaster can get pretty hot, but if you are talking about an fdm print, why not just do sand or lead shot or something? No heat to worry about and it's easily added after you get the print finished up. Rather than just adding weight I'm mainly looking to add rigidity, it's a mechanical part. As it is, it works okay but I want to experiment with a cost-effective way to make it stiffer. I know epoxy gets hella hot, but was thinking maybe some of the long-curing-time resins (like 24 hours or something) might not heat up as much? I'm willing to experiment, but it would be nice to get a running (or jogging) start by taking notes from someone who's been there & cursed the mess 
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May 19, 2021 06:57
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I might be on board for a part to be printed in one of your strong plastics, but I'm going to investigate this resin angle first. Thanks for the tip re: the TASK-series urethanes. (Please PM me something about your rates for serious plastics like PEEK or Ultem or something -- whatever is most rigid. Printing with high-performance plastics is on the table as an option, but I'm checking out messy, cheap options first.)
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May 19, 2021 18:00
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Ambrose Burnside posted:- scrapers/squeegees: i try to scrape as much resin off the plate + unwashed prints as possible before using any sort of brush or cloth, b/c it's the last stop for being able to usefully reclaim resin into the tank. a rigid scraper is good for the build plate and flat part faces, but a soft one would be ideal for the FEP and for parts with non-flat contours i wanna squeegee. can anybody recommend any tools that have an ideally-sized squeegee 'blade'? Scraper: look at palette knives (for paint), I bought one and never looked back. They have rounded, smooth edges which is real nice for being gentle as long as you're scraping resin from plastic/soft surfaces. They come in a variety of shapes and sizes, I went for one that looked like this to scrape resin: https://www.amazon.ca/SAVITA-Painting-Scraper-Stainless-Spatula/dp/B08S7FMGTJ Printable essential: I use up ends of filament rolls by printing disposable funnels in vase mode. They come in super handy for pouring out & reclaiming resin.
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May 19, 2021 20:18
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insta posted:I'll wait until you're good and pissed off at resin casting before we talk prices on PEI prints tyvm Suit yourself
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May 20, 2021 06:15
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mattfl posted:It’s as ridiculous as you think it is lol That's an amazing-looking result regardless!
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May 23, 2021 03:39
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Yeah that truck turned out really well. Crazy to think that for kids today, it's normal for people to make their own plastic things at home with a computer and a machine. Like, that's just a normal thing that some people do.
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May 28, 2021 05:15
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e: ^^^ that mask looks boss as hell Laser chat happens here sometimes, so in that spirit: My buddy just told me he ordered a glowforge. How bad has he hosed up? I remember in the early days they seemed to have their ducks in a row, but do they work alright or are they a dumpster fire?
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May 31, 2021 01:04
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Sockser posted:Glowforges are.... fine? Thanks for that. If that is the worst of it then I'm sure it's going to be fine for the guy. I was just worried they went tits up or something and he was going to be left holding the bag on a cloud-connected machine minus the cloud. I had a vague recollection of some kind of despair spiral with glowforge, but if they are up and running that's something at least. He's been using my laser machine but I'm not at all part of any kind of laser "community" so I'm not at all up on the happenings. I just laser my poo poo using my old window 7 laptop software and go back to whatever else I was doing Glowforge minus the extra stuff sounds a bit like the niche the guys in Vegas (Full Spectrum Laser) went for.
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May 31, 2021 01:29
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That's good news, I'm glad to hear they do what they are supposed to. I think part of what attracted him was it making some of the workflow easier than it is with, for example, my dumb sneakernet machine.
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May 31, 2021 07:04
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It's big, it's heavy, it's shipping by courier from across the world. You're not missing anything, it's just expensive to get it to your door.
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Jun 1, 2021 07:27
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e: I misunderstood I think
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Jun 9, 2021 19:09
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Dr. Despair posted:Prusa's method for initial z offset is to lower the nozzle until it touches a piece of paper. Maybe you don't have to do that if you buy a preassembled mk3s but if you build a kit you definitely do it as part of the initial tramming (and they even have you keep the paper on the bed as it goes through it's first calibration as a check to make sure it's not getting too low). The paper is placed there so you can visually tell if the nozzle touches the bed at any point during the XYZ calibration (it shouldn't). If the paper moves or tugs, mash the RESET button/kill the power immediately and feel shame / reflect upon your errors. OFC the only reason this would happen is if the PINDA probe is malfunctioning, or has been set way too high (as in, "directions weren't followed" too high) and as a result the PINDA never triggers. The PINDA gets things into the ballpark, and the operator then uses first layer calibration to dial in the rest visually with the big long zigzag.
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Jun 11, 2021 06:25
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What's it supposed to look like?
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Jun 17, 2021 02:04
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Ambrose Burnside posted:
Casting your own custom screws is pretty hot 
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Jun 17, 2021 21:55
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Yeah for example applylabwork has at least one resin that is a drop-in replacement for formlabs. It works okay, but performance clearly isn't as good and it's one of those super stinky acrylates, but at least it's cheaper (it wasn't worth being cheaper imo)
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Jun 18, 2021 16:48
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I'm going to weirdly multi-quote you, there's just so much going on.Fanged Lawn Wormy posted:it's a Markforged Onyx Pro  I am super enviousHoly poo poo the mounting on those pots is  Fanged Lawn Wormy posted:I also do a lot of brackets for mounting some piece of weird bullshit to another This is IMO probably the #1 value delivery of 3D printing. Reminds me of something I read from a guy who refurbed a van into basically a mini-RV to live out of. He said getting his van a 3D printer was one of the smartest decisions he ever made.
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Jun 24, 2021 06:41
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I just recently got my Prusa Mini set up and running, which I've been putting off for like forever, and it's pretty slick in its own way I do find that the the mk3s is noticeably a much more mature product and that includes the firmware functionality. Just little things, like the way there's no shortcut to manually jog the Z level (for example to raise the print head to clean it more easily if needed) and the way it defaults to "time elapsed" instead of "print time remaining"  if it's connected to the network and can find an NTP server.It's also weirdly awkward in ways, like reaching the USB port on the side is a pain in the rear end with the filament detector installed, especially with the way the head always parks near the bottom of the Z axis, guaranteeing it is in the way basically always. The machine is light, so awkward USB in and out actions tends to shift the machine because -- this is hard to describe, but there isn't really a convenient spot to "handle" it when doing that. Weirdly I tried using a small USB hub as an extension to make it more convenient, but neither worked I thought I had a pretty generous enclosure made up from an IKEA BROR shelf, but the mini really eats up space because of the above items, plus the need for filament to be all sidesaddle, plus the power brick laying somewhere. It really adds up. The Mini itself was pretty damned effortless though, and it sure prints good.
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Jun 25, 2021 19:16
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At least with the formlabs resins, prints will absorb alcohol if left in too long, which can harm the surface quality, and/or or the properties (especially in the case of some of the engineering resins.) They had a document I read that went thorough all their resins and their effects but I don't remember much of it other than "just follow the directions, dummy (but it's probably not the end of the world if you make a mistake.)"
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Jun 26, 2021 17:02
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Ambrose Burnside posted:doublepost for the laser SLA people (i think we have one or two maybe?)- Siraya tech just released a new type of resin that's explicitly for laser SLA processes. i think it's less than half the price of Formlabs' own resins despite Siraya products always being very solid, seems like a big deal if you're stuck w paying Formlabs prices to make anything. Huh that's neat -- I'm cautiously interested. Wonder how bad they smell  e: I can't find anything on their site, does it have a name (so I can watch for it)? Great effortpost on the FGC-9, by the way. The Eyes Have It fucked around with this message at 02:30 on Jun 30, 2021 |
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Jun 30, 2021 02:27
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Has anyone used Prusa's satin finish build sheets and can say how well they work, and with what? My experience with the textured sheet for example is that it's kind of useless for PLA but great for PETG. How's the Satin?
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Jun 30, 2021 18:44
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Thanks, that's really useful to know. I mostly print in PLA and a factory textured option that isn't the prusa textured sheet (which sucks for PLA) would be pretty nice.
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Jun 30, 2021 19:51
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Ugh I really hate the way Prusa's shop doesn't allow ordering something with a lead time & ship when the order is ready. You can only order in-stock stuff, so you either split your order into many separate ones as individual things or batches come in stock (paying $$$ shipping separately for each), or you wait until everything in your cart happens to be in stock at once and then mash the order button (good luck with that one.) It's frustrating to want to order a part or two, some filament, and a replacement build platform but play endless whack-a-mole with item X isn't in stock but will be in a few days, ok now it's in stock but the other thing isn't any more, etc.
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Jun 30, 2021 20:38
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InternetJunky posted:In terms of curing the IPA to clean it, I just print so much (5-15 plates a day) that it goes quickly. Can I ask what you print so much of? Are you using MSLA machines, and is so what do you feel is your biggest bottleneck with them?
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Jul 4, 2021 19:29
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That's cool 
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Jul 4, 2021 19:41
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Dominoes posted:Hey. Are there any filament machines I can buy that are more reliable / less-finnicky than the Ender 3? For making small parts and enclosures in ABS, at quantities in the hundreds / month. Willing to pay up to $5k. Enclosed, or can be enclosed with a tent etc. You're going to want to look at prosumer level stuff (zortrax, raise3d, ultimaker, maybe even Prusa -- depending on what you want exactly -- all come to mind) Higher tier stuff like markforged is amazing, but will cost 10s of thousands. Or if you can manage to make the Ender do what you want, run the poo poo out of those like a cryptocurrency miner ruining video cards and deal with hardware turnover.
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Jul 4, 2021 19:48
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mattfl posted:I finally finished one of my larger projects That looks amazing. Great job!
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Jul 6, 2021 21:46
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Ultimaker is a solid grade machine that is aimed at prosumer & pro tier users, they should have support and reference materials aimed at that as well. You won't have to go scouring facebook groups for secondhand support advice, is what I'm saying. You can go to the source and it'll exist.
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Jul 6, 2021 22:42
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Sockser posted:On the topic of 3d printed sex toys, here’s a guide on how to do it quickly and safely! The beeswax angle is pretty damned clever. Really great idea for lining a 3D printed mold that is intended for ones and twos quantities. (And it doesn't inhibit curing, but paraffin does, apparently)
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Jul 12, 2021 22:16
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Deviant posted:Agggh, my prusa has suddenly stopped sticking support material to the bed: The only time I washed build plates with soap I used a small amount of Tide Free (no perfumes, etc). I didn't want to take the chance that any additives like scents or moisturizers would get in the way. Maybe that's an issue?
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Jul 12, 2021 22:19
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RabbitWizard posted:I printed my first bigger thing, for me that is a print time of more than 10 hours. The mother of my gf is having a birthday soon and likes owls. I printed one in white PLA. Then modified a tree stump model to grab the owl a bit so it doesn't fall off and printed that with wood filament. That looks super cool; I love the wood filament stump! The owl is adorable as well. I made a lithophane lamp that worked kind of the same way, but I added one of these inline motion sensor switches (https://www.amazon.com/Sensky-BS010l-Motion-Sensor-occupancy/dp/B00JLB0GM6/) so that it turned on for a brief (and adjustable) time whenever motion was detected.
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Jul 12, 2021 23:59
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| # ¿ May 9, 2024 20:55 |
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Prusaslicer always splats a model down into contact with the build plate. You cannot position a model in midair. Unless you add another model or shape as a part of the parent model, then you can position that anywhere and anyhow you like. That took me a while to figure out 
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Jul 15, 2021 21:44
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