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theparag0n posted:Hellz yes, a 3d printing thread. Awesome, I will be eagerly following your progress. I've been wanting to make a RepRap since back when the Darwin was new, just haven't been able to find the necessary funds yet.
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Nov 26, 2010 05:37
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| # ¿ May 2, 2024 15:58 |
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I'm in the same position as you Afterdark, just started putting together a Mendel Prusa. I'm using a Wades extruder as well, I think it is kind of the default for Mendel's at the moment and your guess is spot on it's just named after the guy who designed it. I've yet to buy the electronics for mine but I'm leaning towards a RAMPS or perhaps a Sanguinololu as I have seen some of them for a bit cheaper. Would love to hear recommendations about the electronics from anyone on here with a Prusa. A quick question for someone who has built a Prusa, I'm at the stage of adjusting the frame getting everything nice and square. I've checked the distances between all the vertices and they are all the right distance apart, but the frame doesn't sit flat on the desk. Should I finish putting the whole thing together and then worry about getting it to sit flat after or should it be done before I start on fitting the print bed?
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Sep 28, 2011 06:34
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I'm trying to source the final part for my prusa which is the hotend and would love some advise from you guys. Is there a hotend that is considered the best one that everyone uses or are there some that should be completely avoided? Also is 3mm filament still the standard being used?
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Jan 7, 2012 07:19
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peepsalot posted:The makergear hotend seems to be the most highly revered though i havent tried it myself. I had a budaschnozzle fail on me. Currently running a jhead which seems to be performing well. Thanks, I was considering the makergear but it becomes quite expensive when coupled with the postage here to Australia, I may just have to bite the bullet so I can get this drat thing up and printing.
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Jan 7, 2012 10:37
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Just ordered a j-head after checking them out they are almost half the price of the makergear, now once this arrives I can start some printing!
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Jan 8, 2012 04:22
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devians posted:I'm in Brisbane, Australia and we ship in the makergear setups regularly, usually as group buys through hackerspaces. Perhaps your local hackerspace might want to organise a group buy? I'm in country South Australia so I don't really have a local hackerspace. I will be moving to Adelaide in the coming months so I might have to suss the cities hackerspace, if there is one.
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Jan 8, 2012 05:37
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techknight posted:Yup, looks like there's one in Adelaide: http://hackerspaces.org/wiki/Australia Awesome thanks for that, they're nice and close to my uni and looks like they're currently building a huxley.
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Jan 8, 2012 06:43
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peepsalot posted:Awesome, good work that will most likely be one of the first things I print off when I get mine up and running.
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Jan 16, 2012 11:16
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If you have about an hour to spare this video from Singularity university about the future of 3D printing is a good watch, it covers prosthetics amongst other things. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6lJ8vId4HF8
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Feb 12, 2012 06:13
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I finally have my Prusa printing and fairly well calibrated but I am running into a problem with the Z axis. One of the Z threaded rods doesn't rotate as much as the other, It's only a very small difference and only becomes noticeable on reasonably high prints. It is the rod that supports the X end motor and so has additional weight on it, I'm guessing this is causing a bit of binding since my rods aren't the best, being galvanised instead of stainless steel. Has anyone else come across this problem or have any idea's to it's possible cause?
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Feb 25, 2012 07:49
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I'm having a bit of trouble connecting my Prusa to the computer, I haven't used it in awhile and now have a fresh instal of windows and can't remember all the software needed to make the drat things talk to each other. I figured since the electronics already have been flashed with the firmware I shouldn't need to worry about running Arduino. When plugged in windows detects the USB and installs the drivers, I have downloaded Pronterface but it won't connect. I know I'm just missing something simple as I have done this successfully twice before, any hints to what I'm doing wrong or forgetting?
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Nov 2, 2012 06:54
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peepsalot posted:Do you have the correct com port and bitrate selected? bitrate is gonna depend on your firmware settings. Yeah I'm using COM3 which is the one that appears when I turn the printer on and a 115200 baudrate which I'm pretty sure is the one I've been using, though I have tried the others with no luck. After failing to connect Pronterface will just spit out some gibberish like ñMr!éL¾N„. I have tried some other host programs but none of them want to connect. Edit: Just restarted my computer and now it connects! Yay time to print plastic things instead of revising for exams. General Apathy fucked around with this message at 08:37 on Nov 2, 2012 |
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Nov 2, 2012 08:30
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I've had problems with skipping like that when the nozzle moves back over the layer it just put down and gets caught, making the X carriage skip. Normally when it happens you can hear it and some times save the print by making it skip back the other direction. It would be nice if there was an option in a slicing program to not move the nozzle back over something it has just printed.
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Feb 10, 2013 13:05
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peepsalot posted:I've got a prusa 2 that I've been contemplating upgrading for a while. Can't decide on Mendel90 or prusa i3. Anyone care to share some opinions on how the two compare? I've been thinking about updating my prusa 2 as well, does anyone have any experience with the prusa i3?
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Apr 28, 2013 05:04
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I've had a heated build platform laying around for a while now and i would like to get it all hooked up to my Mendel, but I'm using Gen 6 electronics, which as far as I can tell doesn't have the functionality to run a HTB. So I'm in the market for new electronics, but i'm not sure what's available at the moment, is there a recommended board that is better than everything else?
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Feb 10, 2014 10:00
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Thanks for the info. I think a RAMPS might be the way to go for me, tried and tested seems like a better idea for someone who isn't too knowledgable in this department. Also RAMPS seems to be the cheapest option, am I safe in buying one of the cheap kits from China or Hong Kong, or is it a case of you get what you pay for?
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Feb 11, 2014 03:33
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I have now changed my Mendel from gen6 electronics to RAMPS 1.4. The experience was relatively painless until now, I have run into a problem with my opto endstops. The little indicator LED on the optoboards seems to indicate they are functioning properly, always on then turning off when triggered. But RAMPS doesn't seem to be getting this signal, typing M119 into pronterface I will get all endstops reporting as open, even when the optos have been triggered. Inverting how the optos work in configuration.h will then change the endstop status to all being triggered. I'm pretty confident I have wired them up properly, v+, G and S all seem to going to the correct pins, so I'm leaning towards it being a firmware problem. But after a few hours of playing around I'm all out of ideas of what to do.
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Mar 13, 2014 06:28
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UberVexer posted:It sounds like you need to configure the firmware to use those sensors. After some digging around it looks like you need to disable the pullup resistors on those pins in firmware. I think I have tried that, I have commented out the line like it says, I think that is all that is needed to disable the pullup resistors. // corse Endstop Settings //#define ENDSTOPPULLUPS // Comment this out (using // at the start of the line) to disable the endstop pullup resistors
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Mar 13, 2014 07:47
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I'm not having much like trying to resolve my opto endstop problem. I have tried to work out what is causing the problem by writing a little arduino sketch that prints to the serial monitor whether any given pin is either high or low, reading a 1 or 0. I have been focusing on pin 3 which I believe is X_min, this gives me a serial output of all 1's when the endstop is open or triggered. This made me look at the actual voltages I was getting from the endstop signal wire which was going to pin 3. When it should be reading high I was getting about 4.5v, I figure this is close enough to 5v to be accurately read as high. Then after triggering the endstop I get a signal voltage of 2.5v, which I would have thought should have been 0. So is this my problem, the endstop giving the signal wire and pin 3 a voltage when it shouldn't be?
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Mar 14, 2014 10:43
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BlackTie posted:I'd say it is. A logic 0 at 5V is about 1.5V or so. Is there ambient light hitting the optical sensor? Try covering them completely with the lights out. I gave that a go with no change in the signal voltage. The endstops are from ebay, but are based on this design http://www.instructables.com/id/Improved-Optical-End-Stop/#step1 I'm new to PCB schematics and the such but I'm guessing the only way for the signal voltage to be too high is for 1 or more of the resistors on the board having too low of a value. Opto endstops use a 2.2k, 1k and 180 ohms resistors, on my board I can see the 180ohms marked as 1800, the 2.2k marked as 222 but the last resistor is marked as either 180 or 18D it's a little hard to tell, so it'e either 18 ohms or 150k ohms, either way not the 1k which seems to be required. I have contacted the ebay seller but in the mean time I guess I'll practice some soldering and see if swapping that resistor out fixes the problem.
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Mar 15, 2014 07:15
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CapnBry posted:I've got an i3 that's always been a bundle of joy that I've probably spent more money on upgrading and adding on to than I spent on the original kit. It's printed dozens of kilos of ABS worth of device enclosures, mounts, ducts, car parts, and all sorts of useful things at about a 70% success rate. In the past week all my circles have started coming out squished, which has happened before as belts have slowly loosened and whatnot. I usually just tighten the belts and all the screws holding the thing together again and everything goes back to running smoothly. However, I've done that and now disassembled and reassembled both X and Y axises and verified every screw is just the right tightness, every belt has a nice twang to it (but not so much it distorts the frame) and still I get this: I've been meaning to ask a similar question, I've been having the same problem as this when trying to do circles. For me this problem started on my Prusa Mendel when I upgraded from a Gen 6 board to RAMPS 1.4. On the Gen 6, I could print perfect circles, but as soon as I changed to the RAMPS I started getting prints like these. The only other difference I noticed was the noise of the printer. The motors with the Gen 6 were noticeably louder than RAMPS, so maybe that indicates a difference in stepper current.
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Jun 10, 2015 02:19
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I'm looking at getting a Prusa MK3 and taking advantage of the free postage this weekend, but importing items worth more than $1000 AUD into Australia gets hit with an import levy. Annoyingly the current price after conversion is just over $1000 AUD, so I was wondering if anyone here might have a discount voucher for the Prusa shop like the one for doing the survey earlier in the year that they would be willing to sell? Alternatively, the MK2.5 will come in under $1000, am I missing out on much going with that instead of the MK3?
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Nov 24, 2018 01:27
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| # ¿ May 2, 2024 15:58 |
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Thanks BMan, I didn't think about it maybe being tied to accounts. Megabound posted:I own a 2 and have used a 3 and for the price difference I'd get the 2 again in a heartbeat. The biggest every day benefit the 3 brought in was the spring-steel bed which is on the 2.5 anyway.
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Nov 24, 2018 06:36
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