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Frozen Pizza Party posted:This Beam3D resin printer just went live on Kickstarter, $199 early birds are still available. Very cool seeing these cheaper printers with such high detail. Looking forward to seeing the reviews!
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May 22, 2019 22:54
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TKIY posted:Well I think I got the Photon S dialed in. Well done! Looking pretty nice.
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May 27, 2019 19:20
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TKIY posted:Finally got this printed! I have found success in making supports thick up until they're close, and then tapering them down just so they have some connection. Makes the damage they do pulling them off much easier, and the thickness supports the supports coming in at weirder angles.
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May 31, 2019 21:11
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Hey all! My work has me using DLP resin printers really often but I finally decided to step into the world of FDM. Bought a Prusa Mk3s+ and assembled it this weekend. Calibration seems to have gone well, said everything was nice and even/level, which is great. When I was doing the nozzle height calibration it took me a bit to figure it out, as it turns out I needed to crank it down to -1.6. The book shows a few different looking "shapes" of output, one of which was the optimal, but others were too thick or too thin. I did my best to adjust it, and think I got it? The line is just really small and it's hard to tell whether or not what I did was the correct one. Does anyone have any tips? Is there more leeway than what it shows? It is sticking to the bed and laying a nice line that isn't perfectly round for sure, and I don't think it's really flat?
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Apr 26, 2021 18:34
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Doctor Zero posted:Their calibration print doesn’t give you much feedback. Make the square bigger, or find / make a bigger square that’s one layer tall and check that. Cool thanks! Do you find yourself adjusting it much or is it more of a one and done sort of thing?
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Apr 26, 2021 18:46
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Awesome, thank you!
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Apr 26, 2021 19:38
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space uncle posted:Try using this print to figure out z level: Amazing, thank you so much! I seemed to have it dialed in and the whistle print came out relatively flawless. I have some more questions but need to take pictures so I can give some context. Ambrose Burnside posted:Resin's got a drat good surface finish for something fresh from the printer, but it's honestly still very coarse by metal finishing standards. A scratch in a finished brass/aluminium etc part that you can feel with a fingernail is considered pretty bad and needs some personalized multi-abrasive-grit finishing attention- you can feel every single step in a resin print in the same way if you try; fine for lots of parts, just not a tooling master; there i wanna blend the fine waterline/layer steps into one another without leaving tool/buff marks in the finish. Sandpaper isn't really practical for finishing stuff like 3d dies with really intricately-detailed designs, or at least it's a poor fit for the task compared to something that conforms to the part. Vibratory polishing absolutely works but you don't have much control over the process in terms of targeting the polishing action, that's fine for bulk-finishing miniatures or whatever but it'll over-abrade the high points of a single large tool/mold while overlooking the low points. I work in jewellery with 3d printed resin as our primary material we use to cast. If I was going to polish resin I'd hit it with some 3M radial wheels and then finish on a cotton buff with some plastic polishing compound. A felt buff might also work and give you a flatter finish but you'd have to do some tests. Vibratory might work, but the mechanical action could also severely round edges. I've done some tests with magnetic tumblers but they are definitely too aggressive. Ultimately, for us, it's much easier, more forgiving, and more manageable to finish the parts in metal so I've never really thought about polishing resin past 400 emery.
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Apr 27, 2021 17:30
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Are you electroplating or electroforming the copper shells directly onto the resin? Honestly I think some wet sanding up to 600/1200 and then hitting it with a cotton buff would work great and is likely your best bet. Electroplating/forming doesn't normally require a tooth as long as the material to be plated can be plated. Electroplating/forming is the last step (in jewellery production) so making the piece perfect and polished has to happen first. Polishing lead alloys is definitely not a great idea!
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Apr 27, 2021 20:35
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I buy gallon jugs of "electronics cleaner" which is just iso/ipa. Get a 4 pack of that and never worry again!
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May 4, 2021 18:25
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My post processing for resin prints I do almost every day for work: Prints come out into my printers branded wash station (they stay on the build tray) During the 10 min wash cycle in 99 iso I clean that vat without touching it, using a squeeze bottle like the ones tattoo artists use with the bent top Prints come out and I hold them over a funnel and spray more iso on them into tiny crevices At this point they're mostly done with washing, I stick them in warm water in an ultrasonic with soap in it because I have the ultrasonic and it gets all those tiny last bits of liquid resin off. For normal practice it doesn't make a huge difference but it can mean the difference between good and bad castings. Print gets removed from build plate with plastic scraper I cure the entire thing in my beefy curing unit still all together for one cycle of 3 mins Cut all the pieces off, trim sprues etc. Cure twice per side for another 3 mins each cycle My system is overkill for non production stuff, but I cannot recommend enough a squeeze bottle for blasting resin off small recesses or in corners. The added pressure of a stream of iso can work wonders compared to the swishing or spinning motion of wash machines. It also depends on resin! Some more liquid ones will wash easer, where the more sludgey ones might take more work.
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May 12, 2021 21:07
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biracial bear for uncut posted:This is the one-stop shop for the best way to get access to really good modelling software for cheap. Oh this is interesting. How does the education version compare to the real thing? I've never used it because it seems very expensive, but this seems like a great way to get it.
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May 14, 2021 18:37
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biracial bear for uncut posted:The education version is pretty much full access to everything, but your drawings will have watermarks on them and if you get busted selling 3d models directly you can get into some trouble. Cool! I'm in Canada so hopefully it still works but I'm going to test it out since it'll all just be personal use. Thanks for this.
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May 14, 2021 18:45
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Scarodactyl posted:My dad got Rhino at the educational rate. I really need to learn it, f360 is extremely handy but also really annoying for the aforementioned reasons. Rhino is what I use on a daily basis and if you're going to be using it for your business, there's a ton of material on jewellery specific modelling for it. Matrix is its own beast of course but standard rhino does a great job. It's a bit annoying for applications like woodworking/machining projects though. Maybe I'm just using it poorly?
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May 14, 2021 20:24
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I just bought a prusa mk3s+ about a month ago as my first FDM printer, built it in a weekend, levelled in an hour or two, a couple kinks to work out with the first few test prints sticking, and it has been consistently pumping out prints almost every day since without issues. My only recommendation from what I've read is getting a smooth PEI sheet along with your kit (that comes with a textured one). Apparently the smooth one works much better for PLA. My first few prints had some lifting issues, which have since been solved by giving both sides of the sheet a really good wash with dawn dish soap and water.
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May 18, 2021 17:02
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If you go with a Prusa it seems to work well enough with just the textured sheet. I am firmly in the category of "I want to print things, not have to gently caress around with my printer to get it working well" so I completely understand if you want the hobby to be 3D printing and not using a 3D printer to help out your other hobbies. I wanted to reliably print stuff basically right away to make other hobbies easier/more organized and don't need a giant build plate (yet lol) so this is what I went with. So far so good!
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May 19, 2021 00:24
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Re cloth talk, I use microfiber cloths on my vats because they don't have an FEP layer or w.e, the layer the prints release from is permanent so it's the best lint free way to clean them perfectly for the next print. They get rotated from brand new/quite clean for cleaning pre print, to being the rag used to clean the vat post printing. Really gross ones go to a pile that gets washed and then used as shop rags.
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May 20, 2021 01:43
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The benefit I could find is it's not made from oil byproducts, but I think it still takes hundreds of years to break down.
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May 20, 2021 23:45
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I think all this points to the best thing we can do with lovely prints and scraps and save them in a bin and reprocess it into filament if possible. Unfortunately it seems like those machines are expensive but I haven't done much research into them.
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May 21, 2021 04:09
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Ambrose Burnside posted:thanks! i have a tool&die college degree but i haven’t actually done this kind of tooling since i graduated years ago, and never for an additive manufacturing process, so it’s a lot rockier than i expected. not that i mind, not beyond the material cost of flawed designs, anyways. this resin is sold out everywhere right now and it’s not clear when more will ship so i’m also being conservative wrt resin use- this die only uses ~25ml of resin, for example- but i suspect i can do some really lean designs for bigger parts using Hella Shells N Ribs. I've done small scale steam casting for jewellery parts and it works surprisingly well. Finicky, yes, but can be successful!
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May 22, 2021 22:25
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csammis posted:I’ve always wanted to wash my prints with a garden hose and cure them in a tanning bed! Jokes on you, my curing unit already runs off of a tanning bed lamp! I cannot imagine being able to print things that big with resin, crazy.
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May 26, 2021 17:24
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biracial bear for uncut posted:That's mostly what I print (and I saw the note about how they used a coffee grinder on the salt they bought, which is hilarious). I figured I'd look at blast/polish media as an alternative whenever the local lovely hardware store (harbor freight) has a sale if I couldn't get regular old table salt to work properly after putting it through a random coffee grinder (could make for some hilarious reactions at the local grocery store asking for permission to use their grinder for this, too). As a FDM novice, why would you do this instead of printing them in something like ABS or a PC blend?
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Jun 4, 2021 18:01
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NewFatMike posted:Anyone have a recommendation for a cured resin comb? I need to fish some bits out from the Form 3 tray. I pour mine through a paint strainer
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Jun 15, 2021 17:09
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Yeah +1 to material curiosity. All my metal casting ladles that look like that are ceramic to resist very high temps haha
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Jul 8, 2021 17:41
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| # ¿ May 9, 2024 06:09 |
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It looks like it prints pretty nicely too EDIT: Lol I thought it was for FDM. Still cool though!
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Jul 8, 2021 18:33
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