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My college had a UV-cured resin printer way back in the late 90s (I graduated in '99). It worked upside-down from the one in the video. The build platform sank down into a big vat of resin, while a laser on an x-y gantry rastered over the top. UV-cured resin isn't particularly new, I remember playing with some solar-cured epoxy which was really neat. You'd have almost infinite working time indoors, then as soon as you step outside on a sunny day the epoxy would set and harden in seconds. It was expensive as heck, a tube was like $12.
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Apr 4, 2011 23:02
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peepsalot posted:
Back like 15 years ago, my college had a few rapid proto machines. One was a giant worktable, say 8' x 8', and it used special heat-fused paper. Robot rolls out a sheet, laser on a traveler cuts a shape, robots rolls another sheet and a hot roller irons it together. Repeat ad infinitum, and it was really close to wood. Cool! Printable multilayer PCBs makes me tingly though.
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Mar 5, 2012 00:36
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I've been reasonably happy with our Taz 4. I've had it in the office for a couple of weeks now. Mixing the ABS slurry is not a big deal, I don't even measure it, just get it to a milky appearance and slop it on there. Leveling the bed was like a 20 minute job because I brought my indicators and setup blocks instead of going by feel. On the other hand, I can do basic machinist work, weld, and fix my own cars so perhaps I have an edge on mechanical doohickeys. The Slic3r configs they supply are more or less OK, although on a tall skinny print I ended up fooling with the fan to get it to harden fast enough for the next layer. I don't think their cooling settings are quite right. Right now, my problem is more of a human factors thing. The Boss wanted the printer set up right by the door so people can see it. Unfortunately when said people open the door to come in and look, a big draft of cool air comes with them and seems to hose up that layer (extrusion variation, lack of adhesion). Clearly I need to build a housing before I do any large prints "for keeps".
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Jun 26, 2014 15:49
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IndianaZoidberg posted:I like that FLIR. I wash I had one. Yeah, we've got a TAZ4. It rules, AMA. Check out that sexy box I just made because ABS needs a stable environment:  QuickFrame from the 80/20 Garage Sale and foil-backed insulating foam. Acrylic doors and self-printed handles.
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Feb 13, 2015 21:26
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We got the Flexystruder in last week for our Taz4. Ninjaflex is too much fun, I think I'm going to do everything in 'flex from now on. The stuff is just as strong and pliable as they show in the videos. I've got a little keychain ring thing that I print as a quick test, trying to break the ring part hurts me way before the ninjaflex gives up. After-hours job perhaps? http://www.dildo-generator.com/
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May 4, 2015 15:11
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ante posted:One of my buddies already printed something from there Yeah, the thief is kind of a dick.
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May 5, 2015 03:07
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I've been using 123d more and more. It's like Sketchup with some of the Sketchup Pro features enabled. It took a while to get into the weirdly minimalistic interface but watching a few videos made it click. Exports STL which I then stuff into Cura. That's my "Easy Mode" toolchain. "Nightmare Mode" is FreeCAD -> Slic3r. I like parametric modeling but FreeCAD is such a bugger when I haven't used it in a while. I also like fooling with the infill patterns in Slic3r. Cubify Design looks like a useable version of FreeCAD from watching their demo video. Probably worth the $200 if it's not a crashy heap. Dielectric fucked around with this message at 22:56 on May 14, 2015 |
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May 14, 2015 22:26
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insta posted:This really just means that sketchup can spread its cancer outside of its own format. Seriously, the files it makes are abysmal. I've found it very easy to make non-manifold objects in Sketchup. That means a trip through Netfabb in a lot of cases. So I don't use Sketchup any more.
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May 14, 2015 22:29
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Rubiks Pubes posted:Well I finally got around to getting the right thermistor for my heated bed and also upgraded to an ATX power supply. Now I am running in to the ABS not wanting to stick to my print bed. I just tried an Elmer's Glue Stick which may help. I am printing on to the heated bed with painters tape over it (same thing I've used for PLA with no problems). Any suggestions? I use the acetone/ABS slurry. Some acetone and scrap filament in a bottle, mixed to nearly opaque (like skim milk because I used white ABS). Then I dip a paper towel in and wipe down the build area. Smelly, as expected. I mostly print small things so I've got half of my bed primed with slurry and the other half with glue stick for PLA. I've got PET film over the whole thing, which Ninjaflex sticks to with nothing else on it. Never tried painter's tape, as the other stuff worked fine for my porpoises.
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May 15, 2015 17:12
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Blackchamber posted:I've been wanting to make/get an enclosure for my printer but I think the hacked-lack ones look ugly, and I guess now the possible safety hazard ^^^^. I made one from 80/20 Quick Frame and 1/2" EPS foam with the foil lining. It wasn't cheap but I wasn't paying for it. The foam is probably flammable but it does help maintain the temperature in the enclosure.
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Jan 12, 2018 21:49
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+N for Fusion 360. I picked it up to a conversational level by watching Lars Christensen on Youtube. Specific to the Jag bracket, this one shows them importing a sketch, then creating surfaces based on the curves: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NypRE2aFhh4 You may be able to put that bracket on a flatbed scanner to get it into a nice flat image. I did that for a filler piece on the hull of a model of the Bismarck that a co-worker was building. It was relatively easy to match the curve with some simple splines, then extrude and print to the desired thickness. Sketchup makes it really easy to make non-manifold parts, which slicers hate. I use it sometimes to make models of a room to make a lab plan but that's about it. Woodworking guys seem to love it, probably because the solid modeling paradigm matches the way a guy with a piece of wood thinks, ie, "Here's a slab, let's cut away everything that isn't the thing that I need."
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Mar 14, 2019 19:47
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Acid Reflux posted:Every version of Cura lets you do this, and the "weird setting" is File -> Open. It'll import JPG, PNG, and BMP files natively. Junk mail recipients hate this one weird trick!
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Apr 18, 2019 18:21
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4) Heat up a screw and use it for a thread former. I did it in some HIPS with 6-32 screws last week. I designed the screw holes to be a little bit undersized, then drilled them out to the recommended size (#35). Then I used my soldering iron to heat the screw up and bottomed it out in the holes. It works fine holding a PCB in place, I wouldn't trust tapped plastic with much more than that though.
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Jul 10, 2019 19:25
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Sockser posted:Octoprint is seriously the best Then when you get it running, print a case for the PI that slots into the Ender's rails, and an arm for the USB camera that you definitely want to hook into the Octo-host. Cura's Octoprint plugin works great for me too. I had it running fine with Slic3r too. Then upgrade to Klipper and tell me what you get for results on the pressure advance settings so I can stop printing these drat cubes.
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Dec 16, 2019 19:22
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On my Ender 3, I'm having a lot of trouble with the extruder-end fitting on the bowden tube. I put the Capricorn tubing kit on there and ever since, I just can't get it to hold securely. I can feel it move in and out with retractions a couple of mm. I bought some new fittings with metal teeth and I'm using the little spacer clip, but I still get movement. I cut off the chewed-up end to give it some fresh meat too. The hotend is fine, no movement. AITA?
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Feb 26, 2020 00:15
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Ambrose Burnside posted:I’ve actually avoided SW for this, as mentioned everything’s ruled by constraints so it’s extremely slow to use the Dome tool over and over and then do a ton of manual mesh meddling to get all the embossed sections to interface properly without being full of non-Euclidean garbage polys. The only good workflow i ever had for this was using cambam, by making greyscale rasters in Illustrator and heightmapping the mesh according to pixel shade. It’s a bust-rear end way of doing it and i’m absolutely not going back to Cambam for this in the year of our lord 2020. Have you fooled with Blender at all? I used it to re-pose some yeti STL files for our Christmas train this year, and it was actually pretty nifty for mesh manipulation. The re-posing was fun, I followed some Youtube tutorials for adding an armature to a model and basically had an action figure on my computer in about a half hour, all the way down to the fingers and facial expressions. I added boobs and a better hairdo to one (the yeti family needed a mommy) using the clay modeling tools, I have to imagine there's an easy way to bump map an STL surface to get the hammer marks in there. Direct modeling gets the goods. 
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Mar 4, 2020 17:36
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Ambrose Burnside posted:
Blender is FOSS, so if you found a trial version you're getting hosed somehow. I was just using STL as an example for import, it can handle a ton of files. But no, I don't think it will keep an operations timeline at all since it's not a CAD package. An undo-redo stack is the best you can hope for unless someone wrote a plugin.
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Mar 4, 2020 21:24
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Elos posted:Was going to finally buy my first printer and welp, Prusa Mini shipping estimate for new orders is now in September. I'm watching for a secondary market of printers once the PPE printer people are done, bored, or have broken them beyond their ability to repair. I should set up some kind of auto-search on Facebook Marketplace, now that I think about it.
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May 22, 2020 21:44
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