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Slung Blade posted:One of the coolest applications I see for these things is printing out something to be cast in metal, but I guess I'm biased. This is exactly what I was thinking. You could set a project up to be made in wax(some sort of wax) and then just set it and forget it. When its done, all you have to do is sprue it, make the mold, then stick it in a kiln ala lost wax. Then its off to casting. ASSTASTIC fucked around with this message at 05:18 on Nov 16, 2010 |
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Nov 16, 2010 05:10
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| # ¿ May 2, 2024 15:46 |
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Anyone got some advice on printing on kapton? The bed adhesion was loving garbage while printing ABS. Maybe it was my M212 height, but what really confused me was that I tried the glue stick/kapton technique and when my heated bed got up to 90c, the glue stick would lose all "tackiness". I know some people have used hairspray, but I'd prefer to use something less messy. FYI: I have a printrbot simple metal, matrix precision XYZ upgrade, & a e3d v6 hotend.
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Jul 19, 2017 19:11
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Thanks for the advice. I can print PLA all day, every day on with blue painter's tape. The only time I've had issues with PLA is when my Y axis belt decided to come undone and just barfed filament on a 10 hour print. Had to replace the hotend after that. I might try the hairspray technique, but I might keep it on blue tape and just gently caress with my z axis height to try to get it dialed in more. I've printed with big rear end rafts to help, but sometimes those loving rafts lift too.
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Jul 20, 2017 09:26
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I haven't been following the thread, but I wanna throw a huge shout out to Matterhackers and MatterControl for my printrbot. Printrbot has kind of abandoned the simple metal, and they recommended Cura. The newest Cura versions haven't been supporting Printrbot, and removed the Pronterface interface which allowed you to manually control certain aspects of temperature, hotend position, as well as Gcode. MatterControl's free program has been working awesome and you can use Cura as a silcer. After using MatterControl, I'm probably not going to go back to Cura.
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Jul 20, 2017 20:59
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biracial bear for uncut posted:You're insane and everything you've posted here is wrong. K. Just my experience with their program. poo poo works for me, and Cura been a huge pain in the rear end since they took the pronterface interface out. Also, I think I was using Slic3r during their dark period because I couldn't get their poo poo to work at all. ASSTASTIC fucked around with this message at 23:47 on Jul 20, 2017 |
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Jul 20, 2017 23:39
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CloFan posted:ha a lot of people say I'm the first one they've seen use a printer for something practical I just printed a bracket for my ring doorbell because I don't have a flat place to mount mine. I have wood siding that is too small for the ring, but I 3d printed a bracket that will hold it in a perfect angle and flat. I did have to make adjustments to the design from thingiverse though.
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Jul 21, 2017 22:16
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Hope it holds up OK, but I really think it will
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gently caress kapton tape! I couldn't print poo poo for ABS with it on my heated bed as nothing would stick. First print with blue tape, no lifting whatsoever. Could have also been my z height calibration too though...
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Aug 17, 2017 22:44
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What is this witch magic?! I guess I should look into it. I'd have to re calibrate my z height again, as it looks pretty thick. How tough is PEI? Surface prep at all?
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Aug 17, 2017 23:17
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| # ¿ May 2, 2024 15:46 |
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CloFan posted:Where do you guys buy your filaments? Amazon? I'm looking for a turqoise but not having much luck. I found a Mint in AMZ3d that's a little lighter than I wanted, but it might work. Amazon. I've found that hatchbox seems to be the best poo poo I've worked with that is priced decent.
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Aug 23, 2017 22:08
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