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I've got a question about a particular 3D model that is being very strange about slicing. I just got babby's first 3D printer a couple months ago (an Anet A8) and so far I've only printed stuff from Thingiverse. I have next to no experience with 3D modeling or working with meshes or whatever but I'm willing to give it a try if someone can help me figure out what's happening  The model in question is a Captain Toad figure. I'm pretty sure the uploader didn't make it because Googling for "captain toad STL" yields a lot of different models that are all pretty much identical. The model looks reasonably fine in 3D but slicing goes completely bugnuts. Slic3r 1.2.9 shows the 3D view okay but the preview is wonky - feet and arms and facial features are missing, several layers are just not there.  Cura 2.3.1 appears to slice it okay but there's a large hole between the model's legs. I didn't even notice at first because Cura made support structures that blocked the problem but, well,  And sure enough on the layer view there's an arch between the feet that shouldn't be there:  Interestingly, if you open the STL in OpenSCAD or Meshmixer there are actually small holes in the model. They're not missing faces, just actual small gaps in the structure. Two behind the right shoulder at the same level as the missing layers in Slic3r, one small one on the crotch near the left foot (but not nearly big enough to account for that space), and one tiny one right on the very bottom of the model. What I've tried
Any ideas on how I can repair / change the model to fix that hole and get a successful slice?
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Feb 22, 2017 18:38
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PirateDentist posted:What gap should I be looking for when setting the height? Like, in millimeters. I have feeler gauges that go down to 0.04mm if that's thin enough, which is a lot more precise than "piece of paper that drags but not too much but a little you get the idea". Paper comes in a lot of thicknesses. The gap that I shoot for is such that a 0.10mm feeler gauge can fit between the nozzle and the bed but a 0.15mm can't. This gets me a pretty squashed first layer which is sometimes hard to remove even with blue tape on the bed but it's not so close that the head crashes or the filament backs up. e: if it matters, I've got a 0.4mm nozzle
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Apr 7, 2017 21:53
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mewse posted:Out of curiosity with that precise measurement of nozzle height, what are you setting your first layer height to in your slicer? 0.2mm
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Apr 8, 2017 16:49
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I use OpenSCAD for all the things I design myself, but I don't really do more complicated than Radio Shack style electronics enclosures.
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Apr 18, 2017 13:48
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That noise could be moisture buildup in your filament. When a bit of filament that's absorbed water hits the hot end, the water boils and makes a little "snap" sound. That can screw up extrusion because the expanding steam creates a gap inside the throat and/or forces melted plastic out the nozzle faster than expected.
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Apr 25, 2017 03:49
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Bitching time! loving supports. Every time I think I have my slicer settings dialed in and working well I try to print something with supports and that beautiful dream is dashed to hell. The contact points with my models always look like poo poo and as an extra special bonus I nearly always gouge myself while trying to remove them. Goddamn motherfucking supports. Question time! I want to improve my supports game but Googling isn't yielding much in the way of "this precise setting worked well," more like "you have to tweak settings, my supports come off great!" I'd be interested to hear specifics for what works for people in this thread. For my part - settings that don't work super well - here's a screenshot of my Cura (2.3.1) settings:  And here's a picture of the scraggly mess left when the support structures are removed  It's the underside of a part of this model...I admit this might be a degenerate case, the part has a lot of protrusions that don't contact the build plate. Can I expect to get better results with adjusted settings or am I just looking for a unicorn of clean-break support structures that doesn't really exist?
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Apr 26, 2017 03:55
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"The other way around"? I'm not sure if you're joking or suggesting something that I'm just missing. The part is essentially a spheroid with weird protuberances all over. If you're suggesting flipping it upside down, there's an antenna on top - the only contact with the build plate would be even smaller. That's not really going to minimize supports so the detachment problem would be even worse. For this particular model I could chop it in half horizontally, flip the bottom half over, and probably get pretty good results gluing the halves together...but that doesn't help me improve my support settings in general
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Apr 26, 2017 04:09
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Thanks for the support (  ) everyone. You're all right that generally I need to practice good slicing in order to reduce the need for supports. I watched that video that Rapulum_Dei linked and it gave me some good ideas for settings to tweak next time I need to fall back to support structures. Interface thickness and density seem fairly key.That video also made me want to drop $150 on Simplify3D but I just can't bring myself to spend that much on a sub-$200 printer
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Apr 26, 2017 16:31
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Yeah I agree about PLA's failure mode being the most problematic part of that plan. Here's a video about strengthening PLA bottle openers with some good bits like measuring the exact breaking point edit: beaten
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Apr 27, 2017 19:47
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Revol posted:While swapping them out, I noticed something that might be important. When I was manually extruding the old material out, I noticed that the extrusion immediately curls up into the nozzle. It wasn't doing that a couple weeks ago. What could cause this? Burned crap in the nozzle can cause this. Have you thoroughly cleaned it lately?
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Apr 28, 2017 03:19
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I've mostly printed printer parts and tools to date but my printer's finally humming along fairly well so I'm making more just-for-fun models. I've made a few things for my wife (Nintendo-themed things) and my sisters-in-law (random models from Thingiverse), and right now I'm working on a Tachikoma model for my desk. I picked up 3D printing to make stuff for my fishtank but it turned out that all I print with is PLA which would just dissolve 
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Apr 29, 2017 00:15
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echo465 posted:What are your fish swimming in? PLA should be fine in fish tank water. It's a reef aquarium, so saltwater under strong lights. I haven't tried it myself but 3D printing enthusiasts and reef aquarium enthusiasts - which don't overlap as much as you might think - have indicated that PLA has a relatively short lifetime compared to ABS (or PETG, thanks for the tip!).
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Apr 29, 2017 17:57
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tuyop posted:How do you guys read STLs on a Mac? I can't get mine to reliably open in anything but openSCAD because Preview and Netfabb throw an unsigned code warning. Quick look still works but I'd really like them to just open in netfabb. For modification, I use OpenSCAD for simple stuff and Meshmixer for heavier loving-around. For viewing, I just open them in whatever slicer I'm about to slice it with (Cura). I haven't really bothered with Quick Look. Quick Look on an STL always shows me the model rotated strangely and then tries to open it in XCode 
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May 19, 2017 05:11
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Keket posted:So I bought one of those Anet a8 printer's for cheap to get into the hobby. I have an Anet A8 and I like it. It was a fiddly little bastard when I got it but I'm finally getting decent prints. For printable upgrades you'll want to make belt tensioners and frame braces first. The belts will need to be properly tensioned - it's really hard to do this by hand when assembling the printer and the belts will stretch over time anyway - but the Anet's acrylic frame will start to bow before the correct tension is reached. For electronic upgrades, it would be wise to look into upgrading the electronics with MOSFETs. The short story is that the Anet's mainboard is being asked to source a lot of current from the power supply in order to heat the bed and the hot end and it's undersized for the job. Lots of current + too small parts = heat => smoke and fire. If you Google or Youtube for "Anet" and "MOSFET" you'll probably find several resources. If you'd like someone to explain the process one on one I'd be happy to help over PMs or whatever. Octoprint is a really cool upgrade (I haven't done it yet) but it's secondary to the upgrades you'll want to make in order to (a) get good prints and (b) not burn down your home.
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Jun 2, 2017 04:20
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Can you post a picture and/or a wiring diagram? edit: try disconnecting the MOSFET's control wire - totally removing the switching - and powering on the PSU. If it starts pumping current immediately then yup you've got a problematic MOSFET. csammis fucked around with this message at 03:56 on Aug 10, 2017 |
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Aug 10, 2017 03:53
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Yeah they're pretty much dead simple to wire up. "Post a picture" or "post a wiring diagram" is just my knee-jerk reaction to someone having electronics problems
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Aug 10, 2017 04:16
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Kea posted:Being in the FB group for the printer I have just makes me realise that these kits are not for everyone. I am constantly amazed at how poorly some people manage to print with the exact same components as me. Many of them seem to think uneven bed = screw all the adjustment screws in as tight as they go! This is the Anet A8 group, right? I posted there a couple of times before I gave up on it. Facebook is a horrible interface for what should be a help forum. Now if I have a specific problem that I can't Google I just post here
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Sep 14, 2017 01:33
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Why not make one with some personal branding? I - who am admittedly a cynical old man - would immediately think "trying too hard" if I saw one of those with my own company's logo, but something having to do with the applicant would at least get me interested in what that was all about.
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Oct 26, 2017 18:58
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Mortvert posted:So, I have now ordered a Anet A8 kit. In order of "Will Make This Printer Incrementally More Safe": absolutely do MOSFETs first (both the heated bed and the hot end). Soldering wires directly (bypassing the cheap connectors) second, better power supply third. As far as I know the firmware has little to nothing to do with making it safer. With the Anet you're trying to reduce the propensity of cheap manufacturing to physically fail. That having been said: biracial bear for uncut posted:Bringing an Anet up to par with better printers is an eternal money pit that ends up costing you more than the cost of buying the more expensive printer first. is absolutely right. I have an A8 (it's my first printer and I got it as a gift), and I've set myself a firm limit to how much money I'm willing to sink into the little bastard. That philosophy creates a practical limit to how good you can make it print, yes, but you can't fool yourself into thinking that you can turn crap into gold. Eventually you're going to have to mod it so much in the name of physical stability that practically speaking it won't be the same machine. The Anet is like the goddamn Printer of Theseus. Have fun I'm happy to help if you have any Anet-specific questions.
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Dec 5, 2017 01:16
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Mortvert posted:The firmware thing is for re-enabling safety features like mintemp or maxtemp, I can't recall the exact name - so if thermistor disconnects or stops working I won't end up with melted hotend due to too much heat. Oh that could be. I haven't looked at my printer's firmware for a long time. MOSFET, then soldering, then firmware, then PSU. The critical failure mode of the Anet is pumping too goddamn much current through the cheap board and its cheaper connectors. The MOSFETs prevent the current used for heating (the majority of it) from going through the board at all. The soldering prevents the amperage that does go through the board for motor travel and so on from arcing through the connectors *, the firmware fixes you mention would help defend against thermistor problems, and a better PSU can deliver the juice without blowing out. * a poorly plugged in power connector is how earned my "Release the Anet Smoke!" badge. gently caress those things.
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Dec 5, 2017 14:08
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Mortvert posted:I have received the anet a8 and have assembled it. I'd like to know what I am doing but hell, making it up as I go is fun too. I assume you're going to install MOSFETs, solder-bypass connectors, upgrade the firmware, and get a better PSU like was previously discussed in this very thread about this very printer?
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Dec 25, 2017 15:17
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:has my card just poo poo itself somehow? Yup, bit rot. SD cards have a fairly low retention period, especially if they've had a lot of write cycles already. You can very likely just format it and write new data but with what they cost these days I'd just get a new one.
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Feb 15, 2018 03:39
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Perfect for your drow-based RPG setting!
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Jun 16, 2018 01:38
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goodness posted:
Those supports are pretty sweet, what did you use to generate them?
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Nov 4, 2018 02:21
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Sockser posted:E: Check for a nozzle clog - I recently had that way-too-loving-close-to-the-bed situation happen and back up the nozzle so badly that it had to be swapped out.
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Mar 7, 2019 15:12
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food court bailiff posted:This autoleveling issue is dumb as hell, it’s gotta be a mechanical issue somehow as the sensor doesn’t trigger correctly in that spot until the nozzle is way the gently caress in the print bed but rotating the magnetic bed surface did nothing. Blechhh. I set up a BLtouch on my Maker Select Plus this last weekend and was running into this sort of issue constantly. Really loving frustrating. I've been advised that the printer frame is probably out of square or my X-axis rods are bent so I'll be looking into that when I get a chance. The really lovely part is when I finally gave up for the weekend and went back to manual leveling I couldn't get the goddamn bed manually leveled either. Evidently attempting to correct the autoleveling mechanical issues introduced more mechanical issues. I love this hobby so much.
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May 29, 2019 16:37
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AgentCow007 posted:the implications to the Halting Problem are hilarious. I can’t tell if this is a joke or if you should hold off on capstone in favor of redoing intro theory, but if it’s a joke you should definitely call the plugin Decidable Prints
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Jun 14, 2019 03:28
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I make brackets for my aquarium with OpenSCAD and it’s fine 
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Jun 24, 2019 02:45
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Sagebrush posted:? You should be doing both. Mesh leveling compensates properly for a nonflat bed, and the BLTouch is the best probe to use for leveling because it measures directly off the printing surface and works regardless of the bed material. You forgot - ensure your machine is absolutely perfectly square or a very slight and immeasurable-to-my-tools twist in your X axis will cause the BLTouch to hit slightly wrong on one side of the machine, resulting in a head crash on one side of the bed and spewing filament a tenth of a millimeter too high on the other side. At least that's how it was explained to me by the ADVi3 firmware creator. I ended up taking the BLtouch off because after squaring and Z-braces and everything else for weeks I still couldn't make it work reliably 
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Aug 8, 2019 22:31
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After four years and umpteen problems I’ve finally had a realization about printing: I really love the fabrication power that FDM printing enables in my hobbies, but endlessly tweaking and fixing the printer is not in and of itself one of my hobbies. I’ve fought with an Anet and am currently fighting with a Maker Select Plus and I’m really tired of fighting with my tools. So gently caress it all, I’m buying a Prusa. Is it worth the additional USD$250 and (currently) the additional lead time to go fully assembled? Putting together a kit doesn’t concern me per se especially when it’s made of quality components, but are the kits as robust in the end?
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Sep 27, 2019 03:14
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Thanks for the advice on the Prusa kit vs assembled, that assembly guide is remarkably nice.mobby_6kl posted:Is SLA out of the question? I still can't believe how little setup the thing requires to get perfect results. Like obviously you need to make sure the model is printable and we'll supported but in terms of setup you just screw the platform down right once and that's it. I’ve been thinking about SLA for a secondary printer for the minifigs that won’t turn out well on an FDM printer but for a primary printer I still want the build volume and material choices of FDM.
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Sep 27, 2019 23:57
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The Eyes Have It posted:I've never actually used a Prusa before, but that's all changed now! I got mine assembled yesterday and  I’ll get my octopi hooked back up soon though.
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Oct 18, 2019 22:06
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I got my Prusa MK3S assembled and rolling last week. So far I’m pleased with the quality of construction and the general printing action but there have been some blemishes common to every print so far that I don’t recognize from other FDM printers I’ve used. This is all with the gray PLA that came with the Prusa using Cura 4.3 and the 0.15mm Optimal profile provided by Prusa.  There are tiny sharp spikes on the top surfaces of print jobs. They come off easily with a pass of sandpaper but I can’t figure out what’s causing them. They’re mostly occurring where the perimeter meets the layer fill. Best guess is that it’s a tiny amount of slop left by the nozzle when it does a small Z hop to move but I haven’t caught it happening.  Some layers aren’t filling properly. This isn’t the best example but you can see on the tops layers of both the outer posts that the layer isn’t filled between the perimeters. It sort of looks like underextrusion but it only seems to be happening on top layers. If it was consistently underextruding I would have expected it all over the model. Any thoughts on root cause would be helpful!
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Oct 23, 2019 19:10
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Sockser posted:Mars pro has been ordered! Where’d you end up finding one in stock? MMF and Amazon both still show out of stock for the US
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Jan 31, 2020 17:32
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Dang, guess I must have just missed them
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Jan 31, 2020 17:49
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For anyone who is interested, the Mars Pro is currently in stock at MyMiniFactory for US delivery!
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Jan 31, 2020 19:01
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Oh god it's so ugly, and they somehow found shittier wetter cardboard to use for servers
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Feb 13, 2020 23:37
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It always surprises me to see people ITT who calmly and clearly explain that different tools are good for different purposes when it comes to printers just rage out and ignore nuance whenever anyone mentions using OpenSCAD
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Mar 1, 2020 18:23
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I don’t have any specific advice about minis in PLA but for tiny support removal in general you should get a good set of flush cutters and nip at it carefully
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Mar 6, 2020 15:54
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I just finished my first print on my Elegoo Mars Pro and my first resin print ever! It's outside curing in sunlight now, I'm excited to see it up close when it's done. Question about cleanup: between popping the print off the build plate and worrying about getting it into IPA and cleaned up, I completely forgot about the build plate and drat if there isn't some resin hardened onto it now  All the resources I've been able to Google have been concerned with resin not curing onto the plate. I can't find any information about properly cleaning it in this case. Any tips?
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Mar 20, 2020 22:13
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