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Hillridge
Aug 3, 2004

WWheeeeeee!
I started a thread on hackerspaces yesterday, and thought it deserved a mention here. We have a half finished rep-rap at our space that we hope to get up and running as soon as we're done moving and actually have time to work on it.

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Hillridge
Aug 3, 2004

WWheeeeeee!
I know this field is rapidly evolving, but if you had to get a printer today that you felt had the best performance/price point, what would your top choice be? I'm completely open to kits that require assembly.

Hillridge
Aug 3, 2004

WWheeeeeee!

techknight posted:

I would look at the Thingomatic, Ultimaker, and Mosaic. They have differences, but all are quite capable and offer some amount of official support during and after your build.

At the moment it would be a tough choice for me between the dual extruder support on the ToM and experimental extra-tall versions of the Ultimaker or Mosaic.


Wow, that's.. weird. Maybe try turning on interior support too?

Thanks for the advice. I just found out tonight that one of the members at my hackerspace who built his own CNC milling machine is also almost done with an extruder head for it. I'm going to help finish that and with some luck we'll have our own custom, super precise and badass looking printer.

Hillridge
Aug 3, 2004

WWheeeeeee!
We have a Replicator 2 showing up at the space Friday! :woop:

Can't wait to start messing around with it.

Hillridge
Aug 3, 2004

WWheeeeeee!
I've been absent from this thread for the last 2000+ replies, and only tangentially involved in 3D printers at my hackerspace. However, this week we picked up two donated Zcorp 450 machines complete with 200lbs of consumables, and I have been experimenting a lot with full color prints and 3D scans (I have a 3DSense). I've been printing creepy miniatures of members and friends, but am also looking for pre-made models. Other than the native *.zbd files it prints, the best import format I have found is *.ply. Is there a good source of free models in this format, or an easy way to convert 3ds or whatever files into *.ply?

Hillridge
Aug 3, 2004

WWheeeeeee!
The printer's software can convert STL to ZBD no problem, but STL don't carry color data, so they are a bit boring to print. Most full color models I've found are in something other than PLY though.

Hillridge
Aug 3, 2004

WWheeeeeee!

techknight posted:

Whoa, nice! Photoshop CC is decent for texturing 3D models nowadays if you want a reasonably familiar interface. Thingiverse has a limited amount of colour stuff, but the photogrammetry tag will show some decent stuff with textures.

If you need aftermarket cyanoacrylate, this stuff is good: http://www.surehold.com/adhesives/30-3d-fix-500gr.html

Autodesk Recap 360 is great for producing scans from your phone or dslr photos, better than 123d catch imo (and better than the sense for colour), and is free to use with an education account.

The Sense 3D scanner is also best used with Skanect rather than the 3D Systems software, if you want to go that route

one last thing - whether you're depowdering or sanding or finishing anything from this printer, please make sure that everyone involved is wearing a respirator and glasses (and goggles for infiltration), and if your makerspace has access to one, a downdraft table

Thanks for the tips, I've gotten decent with the 3Dsense software, but it is kind of lovely. I'll give Skanect and Recap 360 a try too.

The machine has a built in depowdering station on the right with a downdraft table that helps to keep the dust well contained. We have a fume hood I plan to use when infiltrating the parts. So far we've just tried tubes of generic superglue and the results are ok but not stellar. I'm looking forward to trying the CA you linked if I can find it for sale.

Hillridge
Aug 3, 2004

WWheeeeeee!

techknight posted:

Are you infiltrating right after depowdering? If you use rough sandpaper or a dremel you can get much better colour if you go over the parts with that (but don't sand/dremel inside of the depowdering booth of course, that's what i suggest a separate downdraft table for).

This is how the finishing process looks on our end - we're using 660s, but same thing:


Scanning



Sanding (post-depowder)





Infiltration





Wax dip (after additional sanding to smooth out remaining build lines



Done!



That looks really good!
What dremel heads are you using? I'm ordering a bottle of the infiltrant you recommended, and we're already on the hunt for a crockpot to do wax dips.
How much of the final quality is dependent on that sweet scanning setup you have?

Hillridge
Aug 3, 2004

WWheeeeeee!
Is that a full custom rig?

I've only been experimenting with the sense and its software, and the colors are kind of meh. I need to try something like recap 360

Hillridge
Aug 3, 2004

WWheeeeeee!

techknight posted:

The one at work is, yeah - ~150 DSLRs with custom electronics/hubs to deal with all that data every time a shot is taken. (it turns out that plugging in a hundred and fifty USB anythings is a non-trivial setup :v:)

The little statue in my last post was just from an iPhone 6 taking a bunch of photos, though

We're working on a plan to do something similar with a bunch of old android phones.

When you're sanding the models, do you just hit the large, flatter areas? I haven't tried yet, but I imagine it's tough to get in all the nooks without destroying things.

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Hillridge
Aug 3, 2004

WWheeeeeee!
Anyone have a vibrant color model similar to this: https://www.shapeways.com/blog/archives/1896-awesome-3d-color-prints-from-nervous-system.html
preferably in *.ply format, that I can use for a test print?

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