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Hobnob
Feb 23, 2006

Ursa Adorandum

AlexDeGruven posted:

The gcode issue is as follows:

In the recommended cura .ini that they ship on the SD card, and the sample model on the SD card, the auto-leveling command is G29 C-0.8 Z0.3. The C-0.8 is a bad instruction and causes it to scrape around the bed.

Thanks for that - I was just about to start the test print, when I read your post, and was able to edit it before I started. (My delta arrived a few days ago, but this is my first printer, and I was waiting for the filament to arrive.)
Where should I be reading to find out about issues like this?

Anyway the cat is in progress. So far everything looks good.

Edit: And here it is:


Using esun PLA+ at 210C. Everything default except the little G29 tweak above, took 1h15m total.
drat this stuff is cool.

Hobnob fucked around with this message at 02:16 on Aug 3, 2017

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Hobnob
Feb 23, 2006

Ursa Adorandum
Any recommendations for a buildtak bed with PETG? I would like to try some with my Monoprice Mini Delta.

Hobnob
Feb 23, 2006

Ursa Adorandum
If you print the pyramid with enough detail, it'll use 0 grams of filament. :eng101:

Hobnob
Feb 23, 2006

Ursa Adorandum
I noticed that (as of the last update) Windows 10 seems to come with it's own slicer. Anyone actually tried using it? It detected my MP Mini Delta (as a generic 3d printer) but lacked whatever extension it needed to adjust options for it, so I didn't risk trying it.

Hobnob
Feb 23, 2006

Ursa Adorandum

politicorific posted:

New problem. I tried cura 15.04.06 along with the default robot and had no problem. The next day (a few hours ago) I tried a 2 part hanging dog model off thingiverse and the print head went slamming into the bed. There’s now an indentation there.

PLA is fine. Slicing and controlling the drat thing so it doesn’t try to destroy itself is now the issue.

I have a Monoprice Mini Delta (I think that's the same as you?). I've found the bed leveling best using G29 P6 Z0.3 in the startup gcode (this does a matrix of test-taps) rather than the default, which does a 0.8 mm negative offset at the centre (C-0.8). But yes, the community sucks, since it's mostly based around facebook, which is terrible for that kind of thing.

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Hobnob
Feb 23, 2006

Ursa Adorandum

One Day Fish Sale posted:

Have you done any manual leveling? I did see discussion on Reddit of tweaking the optical end stop sensors to get matching numbers from a G29 sequence (watching the G-code output) but I haven't tried that yet. Other than that, I think I'm using a very similar G29 string as you in Slic3r and it's working pretty well.

Nope, I haven't done any hardware tweaking, since this is my first printer and things seem to be working ok for me. I have seen people reporting that manual leveling is necessary, but the defaults are working well enough at the moment.

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