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Double post 
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Mar 12, 2011 10:25
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truncated aardvar posted:Time for some harder bits. What on earth were you drilling? Just some thick-wall 1" square tube. The bits did come in a big set with the Ryobi cordless toolkit, and look pretty grainy on the broken surfaces. My drill is too tough for cheap bits, apparently.
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Mar 12, 2011 11:14
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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Delivery McGee posted:Just some thick-wall 1" square tube. The bits did come in a big set with the Ryobi cordless toolkit, and look pretty grainy on the broken surfaces. My drill is too tough for cheap bits, apparently. Cheap bits are for wood/plastic, not metal. Also, very low drill speed and lots of oil helps. I was drilling 1/2" steel plate yesterday with a 1/2" bit. I had to step from 1/8 to 1/4 to 5/16 to 1/2".
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Mar 12, 2011 16:14
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Too slow and too much pressure breaks drills, too fast dulls drills and heat treats parts. A quick formula for proper speed is 200/drill diameter. And yes, lots and lots of cutting fluid. I really like this stuff for drilling thinner material. It's a bit sticky, so more of it ends up on the hole and less dripping on the floor.
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Mar 12, 2011 16:35
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truncated aardvar posted:Makita UC3520A - 350mm blade, 1800W motor. Sup fellow Bunnings shopper! I have one of those Makita saws on my list to buy next week. Got half a camphor laurel tree worth of logs to cut up for lathing 
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Mar 13, 2011 01:51
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What's the conventional wisdom on getting tools from pawn shops? I was browsing through one today and they had a pretty good selection of power tools. They'd obviously seen some use, but presumably are in working order.
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Mar 13, 2011 02:39
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stubblyhead posted:What's the conventional wisdom on getting tools from pawn shops? I was browsing through one today and they had a pretty good selection of power tools. They'd obviously seen some use, but presumably are in working order. Ugh, they're terrible. I paid $10 cash for an electric drill and it only lasted 12 years. Wait. Never mind. Based on my anecdote of 1, pawn shop tools rule. I think you're going to run into a mixed bag of junk thrown in with a few nice tools once in a long while. If you don't mind gambling on your tools, you'll probably be fine.
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Mar 13, 2011 02:58
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Yet another update. Pulled most of the bits apart. Before:  How the blade guard works:  It twists on the motor axle and the lip folds over the guard, leaving almost half the blade exposed. Column showing some rust:  I ripped apart the sled and motor.  Cat was unimpressed. Wiring:  Motor ripped apart to check the sound and bearings:  You can see the inner workings of the manual brake on the motor. You push down a knob which lowers a brake pad down on the back rotor (not in the picture). Simple and functional. I'm going to clean it and semi-assemble before painting. The bearings are as new in the motor so there was no need to rip it apart. This is my latest problem:  One inch inside that hole there is a pin of some sort and I have no idea how to remove it. Only hole on one side and I can't find a manual for another model that shows me how it's done. Oh yeah, the blade that came with the saw is in fact a 12" 97tooth blade. I'm going to try to freshen it up wit some steel wool and see if it's any good on small, detailed work.
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Mar 13, 2011 17:11
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Iskariot posted:This is my latest problem: That hole looks pretty crusty. Clean it out and make sure its not just a set screw that is full of dirt and poo poo.
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Mar 13, 2011 21:09
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iForge posted:That hole looks pretty crusty. Clean it out and make sure its not just a set screw that is full of dirt and poo poo.
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Mar 14, 2011 01:30
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Acid Reflux posted:That's my guess as well. Usually a pin will have a complete through-hole so you can knock it back out if needed. Or its an allen set screw.
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Mar 14, 2011 03:24
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MrPete posted:Sup fellow Bunnings shopper! I have one of those Makita saws on my list to buy next week. Got half a camphor laurel tree worth of logs to cut up for lathing Hi five! Beware, the specified 4.5mm sharpening file was a little tough to find.
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Mar 14, 2011 06:33
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Deep inside the hole in the handle there seems to be a spring pin. I could barely make it out but I think I can see the hole in the pin and the split side. No chance to get a picture of it. It's just too small. It would be easy to insert it in the handle but how on earth am I supposed to get it out? Spring pins are usually made of hardened steel and the handle is basically made of hardened goo so drilling the thing out is the last resort. Could be some numb nut took it off at some point and just found whatever fit to put it back in working order. I'll use some cotton swabs and get the hole completely clean and try to verify before I do something drastic. I registered an account on owwm.org to lurk and post my findings. Not a single Elu or DeWalt has a handle just like the DW110.
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Mar 14, 2011 12:15
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stubblyhead posted:What's the conventional wisdom on getting tools from pawn shops? I was browsing through one today and they had a pretty good selection of power tools. They'd obviously seen some use, but presumably are in working order. My conventional wisdom is don't buy them. Mostly because they're almost all probably stolen; what kind of legitimate contractor would sell the tools he needs to do his job? Contractors who do sell tools legitimately sell them to friends or coworkers. Pawn shops are where everything that walks away from a jobsite or disappears from the back of pickup trucks goes. Second unless you're buying completely beat up junky tools, the price that the pawnbroker wants is drat near close to retail of brand new tools with warranty on sale at the big box stores.
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Mar 14, 2011 18:57
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I removed a spring pin set in a hole like that once by tapping it with a tap that i did not care about and then screwing a bolt of the proper size in there and using that to pull on it. Your mileage may vary. Use plenty of penetrating oil.
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Mar 14, 2011 20:27
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iForge saves the day! (Smaller pictures this time) Result:  You can see the screw with the pin down there. I didn't do anything with it other than finding a screw that's just small enough for the threads to take hold and then using a hammer to pull it out. Great success! Also worth mentioning: Get an impact driver. I tear out rusted bolts that are tightened enough to nearly snap with ease. Little risk in damaging the head as well. Arm off:  Ripped to bits:  There! Now I can move it around without risking tearing a hole in the wall and the Mrs. won' t give me "the look".
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Mar 14, 2011 21:33
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sharkytm posted:Or its an allen set screw. Acid Reflux fucked around with this message at 22:50 on Mar 14, 2011 |
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Mar 14, 2011 22:46
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What's second best to getting new tools? New place to put tools.  11 drawer craftsman. Unfortunately no ball bearing slides, but it's otherwise the same as their current professional line. Bigger casters, thicker metal, box frame construction, etc. I've got 18 drawers to stuff tools now. Oh god what should I buy to fill it? 
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Mar 15, 2011 05:45
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I'm glad that worked for you. I do my share of tinkering, so PM me or post here with any questions that you may have if you hit another speed bump. As a corollary, you should really think about putting something down to protect that floor while you work. Even if it is just a few layers of newspaper, it will keep oil, dirt, grease, etc off the floor as well as help prevent scratches. Hell hath no fury like the Mrs. scorned.
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Mar 15, 2011 06:23
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oxbrain: I want it. I have most of my tools in crates and cases now and it's a pain in the rear end. iForge: Yeah, I would if the downstairs floor was subject to serious damage. It's an old laminate floor that takes serious beating before damaging and we're looking to renovate. I'm almost looking for an excuse. Oil won't do anything to it but it can scratch. Have to finish some home improvements before I start going at parts with the wire cup. Edit: Got to be organized! 
Iskariot fucked around with this message at 12:04 on Mar 15, 2011 |
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Mar 15, 2011 11:36
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I'm glad it was a spring pin, and not an Allen Set Screw. I've got one that's stuck in a really nice boring bar for my lathe, and I've tried just about everything to remove it. Last resort, the torch.
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Mar 15, 2011 20:23
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Stuck how? Is the head on the bolt ruined or is it just rusted solid? I've extracted some bolts and screws by filing a track into them and gone to town with an impact driver. If the head is still intact you should just try an impact driver if you haven't. The difference between regular unfastening with a beefy drill and the driver is night and day. I've snapped the head of a hardened Allen bolt on a circular saw because I forgot it was a links bolt. All while holding the saw in one hand and the driver in the other. The torque must have been immense but nothing travels to your arms. Honestly, an Allen bolt would have med a hell of a lot more sense in my case. Getting a spring pin out from a one way hole is pretty high on the oh-gently caress-me list. Did some initial shining on the column last night. It's going to clean up good.
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Mar 16, 2011 10:19
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The Avanti Pro 8 In. x 24 Tooth Stacked Dado Set from Lowes or Home Depot that costs about $50 is utter crap. Surprise surprise!
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Mar 17, 2011 05:04
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Circus Pies! posted:The Avanti Pro 8 In. x 24 Tooth Stacked Dado Set from Lowes or Home Depot that costs about $50 is utter crap. Surprise surprise! Avanti is Freud's poo poo brand. The $100 Freud Dado stack from HD/Lowes is good stuff.
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Mar 17, 2011 05:31
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Iskariot posted:Stuck how? Is the head on the bolt ruined or is it just rusted solid? I've extracted some bolts and screws by filing a track into them and gone to town with an impact driver. If the head is still intact you should just try an impact driver if you haven't. The difference between regular unfastening with a beefy drill and the driver is night and day. I've snapped the head of a hardened Allen bolt on a circular saw because I forgot it was a links bolt. All while holding the saw in one hand and the driver in the other. The torque must have been immense but nothing travels to your arms. The bolt's head is still intact, but its recessed about 1/2" inside the face of the boring bar (someone tightened it all the way, then left it for 20+ years), so I can't grind any slots into it. Its also a 3mm head, so an impact is gonna strip it. I've actually twisted up two allen keys (good USA-made ones). Its hilarious. The attached picture gives you an idea of how its made. See the teeny allen screw on the far right? That's what is stuck. Luckily, I finally got my OA torch setup running again, and I'm just gonna heat the bar up, which should loosen the bolt.
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Mar 17, 2011 14:31
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Ouch. I see. Still, I would have attempted using an impact driver. Whatever voodoo mechanical effect it has, it really works. (I know about the small strokes it does, but I don't understand why it blows pure torque out of the water). I never tested powered impact drivers until recently and they blew my mind. I was particularly troubled with some lovely screws that we call "French screws" here in Norway. Typically large wood screws made with some lovely steel. Regular unfastening would ruin the head or simply twist the head off. The impact driver tore them out like nothing. That said, I've done heating as well. You mess up the hardening if you heat it lots though but you probably want to change the bolts anyway. I have also made new tracks by beating down an old flat screwdriver with a hammer onto the bolt but YMMV and you can forget that with a hardened bolt. Works with soft screws, messes up the screwdriver.
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Mar 17, 2011 15:07
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I'm very familiar with impact guns, I've got 2 air-powered ones, and a Makita 18V Lithium 1/4" impact. I just know that it'd gently caress up the screw. Heat it is.
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Mar 17, 2011 16:14
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Heat will warp your boring bar and hurt your accuracy pretty badly won't it? You're a car guy Sharky, don't you have some ATF you can soak it in for a couple of days or something? e: unless you already tried that or something
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Mar 17, 2011 17:30
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Slung Blade posted:Heat will warp your boring bar and hurt your accuracy pretty badly won't it? Its been soaking in ATF for about 2 months now. No help.
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Mar 17, 2011 18:44
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Well poo poo, that sucks. How much are boring bars anyway? Can you make your own?
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Mar 17, 2011 18:50
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Slung Blade posted:Well poo poo, that sucks. If I had a lathe, yes, I assume I could make one. Or if I had any inclination to spend money on my existing lathe. Or if I had any clue how to use it. However, other things in my life are vastly more important, so my 1942 Logan 10x32 sits, alone on a steel table in my garage, covered in fluid film to keep the Cape Cod Rusty Bandits at bay. Currently, 2 goon-bikes are in the garage as well, and my boss just asked me to rewire his 1973 20' Seacraft center console... The lathe is not exactly a priority.
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Mar 17, 2011 18:56
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sharkytm posted:However, other things in my life are vastly more important, so my 1942 Logan 10x32 sits, alone on a steel table in my garage Boy does that sound familiar....
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Mar 17, 2011 19:11
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New tool of the day: Hooray craigslist! $425, works fine, and my landlord even wired up the 220V for free (since he was putting it in for his welder, he ran a 2nd circuit for mine). Has "bad transformer" spraypainted on top, because somebody couldn't bother testing the current setting potentiometer before consigning it to the surplus sale. The HF arc starter is fun to look at too:  Better inside pic:  Thing weighs half a ton, but it does work, and $425 beats the hell out of the $2k for a new Miller. It came with a busted water cooler for the torch and some other crap I'm still sorting through, like ~5 packs of tungstens that were Navy surplus from Korea ('48 production date), and some "Eutectic Staintrode" stick electrodes. I finally got a stinger hooked up so I can do heavy steel now that I'm ~99% out of argon. Next task: rebuild the "cart" it came with (note, that orange strap is the only thing holding the cart together).
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Mar 21, 2011 03:21
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Holy gently caress, that thing is a tank  Just be careful it doesn't emit a poisonous cloud that kills everyone in your village Seriously though, nice find.
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Mar 21, 2011 05:37
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Slung Blade posted:Holy gently caress, that thing is a tank What you mean is: Someone should get a Dr. Doom welding mask! Great find and congrats on the free 3-phase.
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Mar 21, 2011 10:01
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That's a great machine. The only features newer TIG machines have that are nice vs old ones are square waves and lower power consumption. That all being said, they were welding with sine waves for a long time successfully, and you're going to be very happy with it once you get a good TIG torch hooked up to it. How much does that thing weigh btw? Also does it do HF continuously for aluminum, or only for the arc start? Edit: I bought a mill this weekend. AbsentMindedWelder fucked around with this message at 10:25 on Mar 21, 2011 |
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Mar 21, 2011 10:21
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Iskariot posted:What you mean is: Someone should get a Dr. Doom welding mask! I already have a mask with flames on the side :P And it's actually single phase, but it can draw 102A at 240V single phase, a mere 50A if you somehow manage 460V single phase. AbsentMindedWelder posted:That's a great machine. The only features newer TIG machines have that are nice vs old ones are square waves and lower power consumption. That all being said, they were welding with sine waves for a long time successfully, and you're going to be very happy with it once you get a good TIG torch hooked up to it. It's pretty good, and it came with a real weldcraft WP-18 torch, which I just cleaned up and put new collet/body/tungsten in and it works fine. Just have to get the water cooler set up before I do any big stuff. It has a switch for arc start, will do continuous or start only (or off, for stick welding). It weighs 965lbs according to the manual I found. After pushing it off the trailer, I believe it. Nice mill, I'd love to have the space for some real machine tools.
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Mar 21, 2011 13:01
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I have the same torch... I personally wouldn't run it all without coolant. Dunno if your cooler is fixable or not, but eBay is a good place to buy them. Until you get a cooler running, you can get a garden hose and hook the torch up to your city water supply. Also, at 965lbs, between the iron and copper in there, you probably made a profit just in scrap value alone! That's one cool thing about buying old welding machines. Even if they don't work, as long as you buy them at the right price, they are always worth $$$ because of the copper. AbsentMindedWelder fucked around with this message at 13:44 on Mar 21, 2011 |
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Mar 21, 2011 13:41
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AbsentMindedWelder posted:I have the same torch... I personally wouldn't run it all without coolant. Dunno if your cooler is fixable or not, but eBay is a good place to buy them. Until you get a cooler running, you can get a garden hose and hook the torch up to your city water supply. My cooler is "fixed" right now; I used the TIG to braze up the blown tubes in its radiator. Just need to fix the welders aux power output (fuse holder busted) and wire it up properly, and find some new tubing, the old stuff is pretty rotten. What sort of coolant should I run? I'm thinking straight water for right now, maybe with some antifreeze added to lube the pump and prevent it from freezing. Still looking to replace it at some point, but I'll survive with this one for now. I used the torch at ~40A for ~30min to braze up the copper tubes; it got warmish, but nothing like the air-cooled torch I had on my HF brand DC inverter. Need to get off my rear end and get my oxy-acetylene setup over to the new shop so I can cut up the cart and actually weld it together properly unlike the dumbass that built it. 2x4s and plumbers strap are not a suitable substitute for welded steel. Doubly so when supporting a half-ton welder.
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Mar 21, 2011 19:41
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KaiserBen posted:What sort of coolant should I run? I'm thinking straight water for right now, maybe with some antifreeze added to lube the pump and prevent it from freezing.
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Mar 21, 2011 20:28
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