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Wera makes some of the best bits and screwdrivers you can get. I keep a bit set of their strongest type in my "work pants" at all time. The laser etched tip is like a slight serration running across the tip. When you apply force to the driver, it really bites into the screw. Personally I find Wera much nicer than Stanley FatMax, Bacho and other brands. Costly stuff though. You see the tip a bit better here: http://www.amazon.com/WERA-Screwdriver-Piece-Set-Laser/dp/B0039ZIQZY/ref=pd_sbs_indust_8 Iskariot fucked around with this message at 09:42 on Apr 8, 2011 |
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Apr 8, 2011 09:35
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Excuse the double post. New topic. Bosch really seems to be hunting Milwaukees 12V line: http://www.toolstop.co.uk/bosch-gsa10.8v-lin-10.8v-li-ion-cordless-sabre-saw-body-only-p15156 http://www.toolstop.co.uk/bosch-gos10.8v-lin-10.8v-li-ion-cordless-inspection-camera-1-battery-p15159 From what I've gathered, the various 10.8 and 12V lines are basically the same. Lines marked as 12V are measured when the battery is at the peak while 10.8 is the mean voltage over a full charge. I like the latter notation better but I'm betting some marketing people had their hand in this. A lot of contractors, electricians and DIYers are praising the smaller line, especially Bosch, as the tools are small, handy and packs a punch. My brother got a Bosch Monster pack for Christmas and they really are nifty. I still swear by my 18V Makitas as they are light for 18V-ers and I don't screw enough (terrible) to warrant a whole new line of tools. These professionals claim that the 10.8V-ers can do most of the jobs and they keep 36V-ers for the really heavy stuff. A Bosch monster pack (drill, impact driver, torch, angle driver) set you back around $600 in Norway so you should get plenty of good tools for a nice sum in 'merica.
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Apr 8, 2011 10:26
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Iskariot posted:Wera makes some of the best bits and screwdrivers you can get. I keep a bit set of their strongest type in my "work pants" at all time. I have had a Zyklop ratchet for a while now, I wish I would have sprung for the set. It's very nice and solid. Repeat after me: "I already have one of those".
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Apr 8, 2011 14:59
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Blistex posted:The 30 year old Black & Decker that finally died on me was one of the first ones to use a bag to collect dust. It guess the first ones didn't work that well since it seemd to be another 15 years since they came back. What I did like about it was it fit my centralvac hose perfectly and not only did it never plug up with dust, but the suction actually collected dust that should have normally been left on the floor. This had the added benefit of allowing the belts to last a lot longer since they were always sanding wood instead of binding and burning dust/floor finish. Wait, you're doing that with a belt sander? You know you can rent those big-rear end drum sanders down at the Home Depot, right?
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Apr 8, 2011 18:26
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Blistex posted:The 30 year old Black & Decker that finally died on me was one of the first ones to use a bag to collect dust. It guess the first ones didn't work that well since it seemd to be another 15 years since they came back. What I did like about it was it fit my centralvac hose perfectly and not only did it never plug up with dust, but the suction actually collected dust that should have normally been left on the floor. This had the added benefit of allowing the belts to last a lot longer since they were always sanding wood instead of binding and burning dust/floor finish. How close to the wall can you get with that B&D sander? I was thinking of buying one to use instead of an edging sander.
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Apr 9, 2011 01:49
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King of the Cows posted:Wait, you're doing that with a belt sander? You know you can rent those big-rear end drum sanders down at the Home Depot, right? I just wanted to see how many belts I would burn through doing it this way, which turned out to be too many to make it worthwhile. I was actually making some pretty good progress, and it does a nice job, but yah, I am totally renting one of those big industrial orbital sanders tomorrow from Home Hardware. I was hoping I'd save money doing it this way, but those 36 grit belts die fast and even with the rental fee, I guess the big sander will be cheaper in the long run. dyne posted:How close to the wall can you get with that B&D sander? I was thinking of buying one to use instead of an edging sander. With the end of the sander pointing towards the wall, about 1", maybe 3/4" if you push it. Obviously, if you're putting the side against the edge you can get even closer, but will eventually have to go against the grain for two of the walls in any given room. Either way, you're still going to need an edge sander. I've used it for about 4 hours total, and it's nice, keep an eye on the tracking or else the belt will sink too far in and start to rub. Also the dust collection system gets clogged fairly easily so you'll have to clean it out fairly often.
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Apr 9, 2011 03:34
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Iskariot posted:Excuse the double post. New topic. I love my new Bosch 18v drill. The thing is a tank. I also love my little Milwaukee 12v. Its pretty powerful, and works well for driving medium screws into wood. Its a really nice thing to have for electrical work. I'm not sure I would use it all day everyday at a job site though.
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Apr 9, 2011 08:11
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Blistex posted:but those 36 grit belts die fast There are two forces working against you. The big machines use "open coat" paper on the low grits, which is much better at removing old finish without gumming up. Most sand paper for small machines is "closed coat", which produces a smoother surface, but will gum up when you sand finished wood, especially flooring which has very thick varnish or poly coat. When the paper gums up, it basically stops cutting into the wood and just generates a bunch of heat from sliding friction on the wood surface. The old varnish turns into a goo which rubs against the wood surface. The heat build-up causes the paper backing to fail and it also has a "glassing" effect on the wood making subsequent sander passes even more difficult. The large drum sanding machines have a big steel drum and outer shell which acts as a heat sink to dissipate some of the heat away from the sanding head, thus preserving paper life and preventing as much gumming.
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Apr 11, 2011 20:05
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/\/\ Learn something new every day! Thanks. Well I went to rent that big reciprocating sander Saturday morning, but the guy who used it before managed to break the handle so I have to wait for them to replace it since there are no other options within a reasonable driving distance. Small towns really suck some times.
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Apr 11, 2011 22:41
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ibpooks posted:There are two forces working against you. The big machines use "open coat" paper on the low grits, which is much better at removing old finish without gumming up. Most sand paper for small machines is "closed coat", which produces a smoother surface, but will gum up when you sand finished wood, especially flooring which has very thick varnish or poly coat. Does that mean that it's possible to find closed coat sandpaper for a belt sander?
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Apr 11, 2011 23:00
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Iskariot posted:Excuse the double post. New topic. I have the ridgid version, the 12v drill and driver combo. They are great, they hold a charge forever, and charge up quickly. The impact driver is the most useful thing there is. Usually you kill cordless drills putting in screws, as you end up with locked rotor and full current, which then drains the battery. The impact driver keeps spinning. Then you can keep the drill for drilling. I like that they are small and light, I have wussy wrists and don't like holding the huge monstrositys above my head, for drilling or whatever. The 12v drill doesn't have much poop, it has a hard time drilling huge holds through fir, but you should use a corded drill for that anyways.
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Apr 11, 2011 23:11
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stubblyhead posted:Does that mean that it's possible to find closed coat sandpaper for a belt sander? I think he just said that closed coat is found on them, do you mean the open coat? (stuff that doesn't gum up as easily)
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Apr 12, 2011 01:48
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blindjoe posted:I have the ridgid version, the 12v drill and driver combo. They are great, they hold a charge forever, and charge up quickly. The impact driver is the most useful thing there is. Usually you kill cordless drills putting in screws, as you end up with locked rotor and full current, which then drains the battery. The impact driver keeps spinning. Then you can keep the drill for drilling.
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Apr 12, 2011 03:41
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Blistex posted:I think he just said that closed coat is found on them, do you mean the open coat? (stuff that doesn't gum up as easily) D'oh, yes that is exactly what I meant.
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Apr 12, 2011 03:52
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stubblyhead posted:D'oh, yes that is exactly what I meant. http://rubpugxyc.tk/search/3-X-21-Aluminum-Oxide-Belts I just googled 3x21 open coat and that was the first result. I guess whatever size belts your sander takes just type it in and see.
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Apr 12, 2011 04:16
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Anybody have any any experience with cordless reciprocating (sabre) saws? I want to get one for work, where we often have to break down transport crates for personal watercraft, ATVs, etc. - like the one pictured below.  They're basically cheap pine frames - I'm after something cordless that will quickly cut through each member so that the guys aren't wasting time and effort doing this lovely job. The other option is a small chainsaw, but I want something that is a little safer and is easy to maintain. Will a cordless do the job and can anyone recommend a brand and or model?
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Apr 21, 2011 11:17
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I've used the father-in-laws makita cordless & as long as what your cutting is solid/ restrained it's easy peasy.
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Apr 21, 2011 12:41
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My Ryobi reciprocating saw got through a 1/4" thick 6" diameter steel pole. Frankly, any of them are going to be able to slice through soft pine like butter but when looking up reviews for your situation, find a tool who's batteries are high quality and recharge well. Then don't skimp on decent blades for it. Keeping a sharp blade on it will turn that sort of thing into a no brainier.
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Apr 21, 2011 16:14
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Milwaukee 18V cordless sawzall + their skip-tooth "demo" blade. It's called "the Axe" or something. This combo will cut all the way through 5' tall stacks of pallets all day without dying.
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Apr 21, 2011 20:45
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I have the 18V Makita and it's excellent for light work. Battery holds its charge for a long time too if what you're cutting isn't too hefty (your example isn't).
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Apr 21, 2011 22:21
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Thanks for the replies guys - I like buying tools, especially when it's not my money 
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Apr 22, 2011 13:02
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If you have an outlet close by there is no reason to get the cordless IMO. I have both and the only time I use the cordless is when I can't run an extension cord. In my experience the corded is more consistent and powerful (plus you don't have to monkey around with batteries not being charged). If I did get a new cordless though I'd go with a Hilti (especially if it's on your employers dime). Agree on the "Axe" Milwaukee blades, they are awesome.
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Apr 25, 2011 17:22
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I disagree. I also have both and since I rarely cut through massive steel beams, I just pick up the Makita (I have a corded DeWalt). It's light, there's no hassle with cords and the Makita even has cute LEDs in front. It's drawback is due to it's light weight, even with the battery, it vibrates during use. Nothing serious for small and fast work but I can see it get annoying if I was to use it for several hours on end. But then there's Hilti. I can't really argue with Hilti. 
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Apr 25, 2011 23:20
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I have a Milwaukee cordless that I use for heavy tree pruning. Works well as long as the blade is sharp and straight. You'll literally get 10 seconds of cutting time out of the battery if the blade is slightly bent; stresses the motor apparently Pallet disassembly via sledge?
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Apr 26, 2011 02:56
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Miscreant posted:If you have an outlet close by there is no reason to get the cordless IMO. I have both and the only time I use the cordless is when I can't run an extension cord. In my experience the corded is more consistent and powerful (plus you don't have to monkey around with batteries not being charged). If I did get a new cordless though I'd go with a Hilti (especially if it's on your employers dime). I agree with this. I have both a Hitachi cordless and a Milwaukee corded sawzall. The junkyard I frequent won't allow corded tools, so I was stuck buying a cordless sawzall when I needed to remove brakes from a truck. Cordless is convenient if there are no plugs around, but if there is any other task that requires a sawzall, I would much rather run a power cord than not. In other words, both have good points, both have bad points.
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Apr 26, 2011 03:18
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I agree on corded and heavy reciprocating saw if you're going to cut a lot of metal. Like a drill I prefer a small, not high-powered unit when I do smaller work. Less strain on the arms and more precision. If I were to get just one saw and heavy metal work was one of the tasks I had to handle, get a big corded unit. For my use, and what looks like truncated aardvar's main use, any saw will do. I would prefer a cordless simply because you get mobility and enough power. I agree completely on blades - make sure you have correct ones and they are sharp. My corded saw is actually a small DeWalt - DW304PK. I got this before the Makita, which I got as part of a larger deal. I wouldn't use the DW304PK for heavy work either but it has a really neat feature in the front. You can attach the blade horizontally so it can be used close to a wall or floor. This came very handy when I was removing a door frame close to a wall.
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Apr 26, 2011 13:53
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Iskariot posted:I agree on corded and heavy reciprocating saw if you're going to cut a lot of metal. Like a drill I prefer a small, not high-powered unit when I do smaller work. Less strain on the arms and more precision. If I were to get just one saw and heavy metal work was one of the tasks I had to handle, get a big corded unit. For my use, and what looks like truncated aardvar's main use, any saw will do. I would prefer a cordless simply because you get mobility and enough power. I agree completely on blades - make sure you have correct ones and they are sharp. I'd go with a corded sawzall. I've got the LXT 18v Makita, but a corded one makes everything easier.
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Apr 27, 2011 16:01
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If I were only going to use it in a shop with outlets handy I would get a corded but if you're going to be outside (or other areas where you would need an extension cord) and only own one saw, I would get a cordless. I have a home duty 18v Porter Cable and I wouldn't recommend it except for basic home chores but it's among the best purchases I've ever made. It chews through wall studs and nails like nothing. Definitely get a 2nd battery and plenty extra blades.
wormil fucked around with this message at 00:33 on Apr 28, 2011 |
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Apr 28, 2011 00:31
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wormil posted:If I were only going to use it in a shop with outlets handy I would get a corded but if you're going to be outside (or other areas where you would need an extension cord) and only own one saw, I would get a cordless. I have a home duty 18v Porter Cable and I wouldn't recommend it except for basic home chores but it's among the best purchases I've ever made. It chews through wall studs and nails like nothing. Definitely get a 2nd battery and plenty extra blades. And lithium batteries. Nothing like a 30-minute charge, or a 5-minute "finish the job" charge. NiCad would take 30 for the "finish the job"...
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Apr 28, 2011 14:49
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I'm looking into buying a new set of power tools for work, and want some opinions. A little background: I'm a commercial/industrial electrician. I currently have a 4.5 year old DeWalt combo kit, it's 18volt, NiCad, and consists of a case, charger, 2 batteries, a hammer drill, and a sawzall. After using these tools daily for over 4 years, they are getting just plain worn out. Also, being older and NiCad, my batteries are starting to crap out, and the tools weigh somewhere in the area of a million pounds. What I'm looking for: I'd like to get an all in one combo kit, with the following requirements. It has to be at least 18 volt, lithium ion, and include at a minimum a hammer drill, and impact driver, and a sawzall type tool. Anything else like flashlights etc. is just a bonus. I'm torn right now on what's available. I'm looking at switching from DeWalt, because it seems like they are slightly behind on their battery tech, and am primarily looking at Milwaukee and Ridgid. Milwaukee has a set out right now that is basically exactly what I want - http://www.milwaukeetool.com/tools/...mbo-kit/2695-24 This kit seems pretty badass, and Home Depot has it for $380 all day right now. On the other hand, Ridgid is about to come out with their X4 line of tools, which I have heard and been told several times are supposed to be dead even with the Milwaukee, at a little lower cost plus the lifetime warranty. In short, should I just go with Milwaukee, a trusted and solid choice, wait for the new Ridgids and see how they are, or the random option, and do something like stay with DeWalt or maybe even Makita?
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Apr 29, 2011 02:54
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I have that exact kit, and it's pretty badass. The hammer drill is heavy, but it's heavy qith quality. Like 70% of the weight is the big fuckoff motor they have in the thing. The Sawzal works great, and the smaller nut driver/screwgun works real well for when you aren't trying to drill 3/4" holes in poo poo. Batteries last approximately forever as well, plus they have a neat little on board charge indicator LED thing. Only downside is no rigid case, it comes with this semi-rigid tool bag thing.
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Apr 29, 2011 07:37
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Ridgid's line from home depot is nice simply for the lifetime battery warranty, but their hammer drill itself is really heavy. Maybe theyve improved on that for the lithium line, but the nicad's drill (without battery) is like a lead brick. I would look at Makita's 18v lithium line. Theirs are extremely light weight and powerful. Plus only 30min to charge the battery.
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Apr 29, 2011 08:38
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Yes, weight is a large factor. Right now my DeWalt hammer drill weighs what feels like a literal ton. Carrying it around all day in my holster actually makes my back cramp up really bad. I just don't need a hammer drill for all the drill-type things I do. A lightweight yet powerful impact driver is perfect, because a lot of the stuff I do are things like using self tapping panhead screws to mount a box or straps to metal studs, or using the same screws to screw a 2x4 troffer light fixture into a ceiling grid, relatively light stuff like that, where hammer mode isn't needed. Hammer mode is for things like when I have to run 3/4 inch EMT along a concrete wall, and secure the pipe with Tapcons, situations where I have to go into concrete or block or brick. A heavy hammer drill therefore isn't really an issue, because I'll be using the impact 75% of the time, and when it is "hammer time" (pun intended) having the weight will actually be beneficial.
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Apr 29, 2011 09:48
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I own Makita 18V tools and I agree on weight and power you get from these light tools but to be fair, Makitas 18V line feels a bit dated compared to the latest Bosch and Hitachi lines. The new thing now is brush-less motors which both Bosch and Hitachi are implementing rapidly in most of their tools. DeWalt offer backward compatibility between Li-Ion and older tools which is nice. They have really powerful drills but they weigh a lot. Don't really know a lot about the typical American brands. All in all, you can't really go wrong with any of these brands.
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Apr 29, 2011 15:26
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themachine posted:In short, should I just go with Milwaukee, a trusted and solid choice, wait for the new Ridgids and see how they are, or the random option, and do something like stay with DeWalt or maybe even Makita? I'm pretty friendly with a Milwaukee/Ridgid/Ryobi rep and the 'company line' is basically: Milwaukee had the first patents on LiIon, they 'invented' it and are a bit ahead in how to use it effectively. Physically there are more internal metal components and a more robust chassis that can be (ab)used daily by a professional. 3-5 year warranties are common. Ridgid shares the LiIon tech, but usually in a more 'ergonomic' package than Milwaukee, most of the same parts but often cheaper metals/plastics. The Fuego line is bad-rear end and I highly recommend their small, one-handed sawzall for you.  It's seriously the best for rehab work if you're in that line. Lifetime warranty is there to back you up. Ryobi wasn't mentioned, but they get the 'has been' technologies from Ridgid. Mostly for the DIY person or weekend warrior type, they're not bad, just disposable. Obviously the rep is biased, but even talking to DeWalt reps they admit they're somewhere between Milwaukee and Ridgid in design, but definitely more towards the Ridgid/Ryobi side in internal electronics/battery.
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Apr 29, 2011 16:04
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If its really only the drill thats killing you then why not just get one of the Milwaukee m12 drills? They are more than enough for self tappers and everyday drilling. Hell, i'd say they work better than an impactor for self tappers since they dont burn up the tip of the screw. If you're making a big hole just use your dewalt or plug in drill.
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Apr 29, 2011 17:34
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straw_ewe posted:
I have this in the corded version and can not recommend it enough! It cuts as well if not better than the porter cable corded one that I have, and the one handed design is great!
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Apr 29, 2011 18:22
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themachine posted:In short, should I just go with Milwaukee, a trusted and solid choice, wait for the new Ridgids and see how they are, or the random option, and do something like stay with DeWalt or maybe even Makita? I would go with the Milwaukee. I don't have that set but an older one that I am quite happy with. I also have the Makita 18V drill/driver set which is great for smaller, overhead area or crawlspaces where the light weight drill and driver is a big help. I personally just don't think Ridgid power tools are designed for professional use anymore, it's sliding more and more toward the Home Depot weekend warrior with every new model that comes out. Milwaukee has remained best-in-class for years and they understand how to make quality tools even if the price ends up higher.
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Apr 29, 2011 19:24
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I was a fan of DeWalt...Now I'm starting to convert over to Hitachi: http://www.hitachipowertools.com/index/main-navigation/service-and-support/warranty-info/hitachi-tool-warranty.aspx
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May 1, 2011 09:30
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iForge posted:I have this in the corded version and can not recommend it enough! It cuts as well if not better than the porter cable corded one that I have, and the one handed design is great! Would that be this one?
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May 1, 2011 20:09
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