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stubblyhead posted:Would that be this one? I am pretty sure it is. I have it and it really is a lot more saw than it's size would lead you to believe. Just as powerful as a full sized Saws All with more precise control.
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May 1, 2011 23:53
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This discussion got me off my rear end to buy the Milwaukee m12 impact, I have the m12 Hackzall and was surprised how good it is. Bonus: Home Depot had a free battery with purchase deal too. On all the Milwaukee Red Lithium.
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May 2, 2011 01:40
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ASSTASTIC posted:I was a fan of DeWalt...Now I'm starting to convert over to Hitachi: Note that the warranty would appear to not cover battery degradation, and "lifetime" means "the period during which all components are available". I'm sure that all battery powered tool warranties would be similar in this regard, but just pointing it out.
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May 3, 2011 10:30
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I need a drill for simple home use. I am considering a corded model because it will be used so infrequently (I don't want to have a battery charging constantly on the off chance I'll need it, and I don't want the battery to be dead on that rare occasion). Also, I figure since cordless models are so popular right now, I should be able to get a nice corded drill comparable to a nicer cordless model at a fair price. Do these two points make sense?
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May 3, 2011 12:20
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Chinaski posted:I need a drill for simple home use. I am considering a corded model because it will be used so infrequently (I don't want to have a battery charging constantly on the off chance I'll need it, and I don't want the battery to be dead on that rare occasion). Before lithium ion batteries it made more sense, but they hold their charge really well now and charge quickly too. For me, the convenience of being wire free overcomes the slight possibility of a half hour delay due to needing a charge. Though I can see why that might have been a bit different when it would have been an hour+ charge before near enough EVERY (sporadic) use. They do cost a bit more though, being the newer tech.
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May 3, 2011 13:20
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Get a cheap harbor freight one. They are good enough for occasional home use. I agree with getting a battery powered one. If you aren't doing any heavy work they are so much handier, and you can just leave the charger plugged in all the time.
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May 4, 2011 00:11
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~Coxy posted:Note that the warranty would appear to not cover battery degradation, and "lifetime" means "the period during which all components are available". Rigid's lifetime service agreement covers batteries - although I think you have to take it to an "authorized service center" - so you can't just go in to Home Depot and get a new battery.
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May 4, 2011 01:16
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I went out tonight and bought this Milwaukee set here from Home Depot. http://www.milwaukeetool.com/tools/...mbo-kit/2695-24 $380 bucks out the door, and I feel that I got a really good deal. Plus, HD is running a special right now where you get a free extra battery with almost any Milwaukee purchase, so I got a $120 dollar battery for free, for a total of 3 batteries in my new kit. I have the batteries charging up as I type this, and plan on testing the tools themselves out tomorrow. I'm pretty excited, everything seems really great, plus who doesn't love new tool day?
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May 4, 2011 04:14
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straw_ewe posted:The Fuego line is bad-rear end and I highly recommend their small, one-handed sawzall for you.
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May 4, 2011 05:18
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I wound up buying a corded Milwaukee drill for $60. I used it last night and it turns screws both clockwise and counter-clockwise. Additionally, it can be used to make holes in various things. I am happy with this purchase 
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May 4, 2011 18:22
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Don't let the Rigid warranty sway you too much. My father-in-law has just about every Rigid woodworking tool out there, and he recently had a problem with his jobsite table saw. No problem, right, lifetime warranty and all? Nope. Rigid wanted the original receipt, and demanded that he ship the saw on his own dollar to one of their facilities so they could determine the problem. He didn't have the receipt, so they chose to not honor their warranty because they weren't sure he had purchased it. He then had to pay to have it shipped back to him. We repaired the problem with about $20 in metal tubing. Basically, the warranty is BS.
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May 4, 2011 18:38
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themachine posted:I went out tonight and bought this Milwaukee set here from Home Depot. Not a bad price, but man, That Sawzall looks retarded as hell
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May 5, 2011 01:28
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Well, I used every tool at work today, except for the impact driver. Overall, I give them a 10/10 score, everything worked perfectly. The only real complaint I had was that the handle for the hammer drill is not the circular loop fastener type, so you can't spin it to any angle, it's kinda reduced to either facing left, right, straight up or straight down. Not a big deal, considering I never really use the handle anyways.GEMorris posted:Not a bad price, but man, That Sawzall looks retarded as hell Oh I agree, it just looks plain old stupid. I have to say though, it really worked well. It has some sort of anti-vibration setup internally, and it really does vibrate in my hand a lot less than my old DeWalt traditional sawzall did. Also, even though the shape is wonky as hell, it's actually really easy to get a good grip on the tool to support and/or brace it firmly. The odd design almost kinda gives you more ways to hold the tool than a traditional one.
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May 5, 2011 02:28
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Wooooo. Babby's first power tools  I'm gonna beat the poo poo out of these things and then use it as an excuse to buy real power tools but for right now woooooo
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May 6, 2011 04:49
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Sockser posted:Wooooo. Babby's first power tools Not sure you want to hear this, but if you take reasonable care of them those two will NEVER die. Old heavy B&D tools were the poo poo and outside of maybe needing a new arbor or a new cord you can expect to use those for the next 20 years or so.
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May 6, 2011 06:41
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Seriously, he's right. For that matter, that whole era of tools (and the era slightly before) was all fantastic stuff that will last forever. My dad has a Van Dorn 1/2" drill that truly is ridiculous in terms of durability and torque. It's almost impossible to stall it out, and it will lift you off your feet if you're not careful. We've got a Stanley from the same era that's 1/2" and just as impressive. I really want a 50's Thor 3/4" drill. And a 20's Van Dorn 1/2" Ugh I love old power tools.
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May 6, 2011 06:49
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Mid century power tools look amazing too. Ive thought about buying some before but metal housing without a ground seems like a terrible idea
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May 6, 2011 07:30
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dwoloz posted:Mid century power tools look amazing too. Ive thought about buying some before but metal housing without a ground seems like a terrible idea Just get a gfci extension cord and use it whenever there isn't a gfci available. Then you will have even better protection then a grounding prong would give you.
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May 6, 2011 07:44
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I picked up one of those cordless Milwaukee oscillating multitools (http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-2426-22-Cordless-Multi-Tool-Battery/dp/B004M8R9VO/ref=sr_1_23?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1304685055&sr=1-23) on the excuse that I was helping a friend install a doggy door and needed a clean way to cut drywall. The tool already came with 2 batteries and I was able to get a 3rd for free with Milwaukee's current sale. All I can say is holy crap, this little thing is awesome. I've never cut drywall so cleanly and the stucco on the outside of the house cut just as well. I picked up a set of dremel blades and with the universal adapter that came with the tool the 3rd party blades worked like a charm. My only previous experience with cordless tools is a cheesy Black and Decker 12V drill with the giant battery pack. After playing with the Milwaukee I'm half tempted (read, really tempted) to go back and buy their little 12V drill or the 90 degree drill and get another free battery with it. edit: Actually, how about a recommendation? Between the regular M12 drill (http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hard...catalogId=10053) and the 90 deg drill (http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hard...catalogId=10053) which one would folks recommend? I already have a large corded DeWalt so I've got heavy duty covered. I'm just thinking for light work where I don't want to bust out the big boy. TouchyMcFeely fucked around with this message at 13:44 on May 6, 2011 |
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May 6, 2011 13:36
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Do not get the 90 degree drill driver. The regular drill does 90% of the work, the impact driver 9% and the lasting 1% is best done with the angle driver. It's really a "oh, cool" but never used type of tool. If you want to burn some $, get the impact driver with the drill. They are superb. If you're just going to buy one, get the regular drill.
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May 6, 2011 14:58
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My girlfriend got me a Bosch router kit (this one) for my birthday, and I'm super excited to get home and play with it. I've used a router sparingly in the past but never had my own...is there anything important I need to know before I start messing around with it?
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May 6, 2011 15:37
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The Human Cow posted:My girlfriend got me a Bosch router kit (this one) for my birthday, and I'm super excited to get home and play with it. I've used a router sparingly in the past but never had my own...is there anything important I need to know before I start messing around with it? Try not to break your wrist.
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May 6, 2011 15:56
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The Human Cow posted:My girlfriend got me a Bosch router kit (this one) for my birthday, and I'm super excited to get home and play with it. I've used a router sparingly in the past but never had my own...is there anything important I need to know before I start messing around with it? It spins really fast, 10k+ rpm for most models. Be sure your workpiece is secured so you don't send something flying and be mindful of the sharp parts. Oh and always wear your safety glasses!
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May 6, 2011 18:19
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The Human Cow posted:is there anything important I need to know before I start messing around with [router]? Always cut with the grain. Be careful routing end-grain or into corners where kickback is possible. Always cut against the bit rotation. DO NOT CLIMB CUT until you are much more confident with your router skills, and only then when it's required to do so. When routing a deep or wide profile, it's better to make a couple passes increasing the bit depth on each pass rather than cut the whole profile at once. Expensive router bits are worth it, as are 1/2" shaft bits. I know it's tempting to get the pack with 100 bits for $20 instead of the single bit for $20 but there is a huge difference in the quality of the cut and the safety. You want carbide bits with roller bearings. High speed steel (HSS) bits dull very quickly, like within one or two cuts, forcing the motor to work harder, you to push harder and the bit much more likely to burn the workpiece, overheat and break. Never exceed the rated RPM of a bit and never use non-router bits (drill, dremel, etc). And on that note, always wear safety glasses. Router bits break and send shards of metal shooting out in addition to the shards of wood shooting out under normal operation. It's also a good idea to wear a mask or respirator, routers make a lot of dust you don't want in your lungs.
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May 6, 2011 19:34
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I don't know if there's anything necessarily wrong with the cheap router bit sets. I have one and appreciate the variety of bits that I have. I haven't been disappointed by their quality and even if they're not as durable, I use them so lightly that I doubt I'll ever dull them. One thing to say about them is that many of the bits are somewhat redundant.
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May 7, 2011 04:11
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Anubis posted:Not sure you want to hear this, but if you take reasonable care of them those two will NEVER die. Old heavy B&D tools were the poo poo and outside of maybe needing a new arbor or a new cord you can expect to use those for the next 20 years or so. I'm aware of their quality. And only $15 for both! Will probably end up buying a cordless drill just because having a drill tethered to an outlet is a pain in the rear end. But for now, f yeah.
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May 7, 2011 05:51
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dwoloz posted:Mid century power tools look amazing too. Ive thought about buying some before but metal housing without a ground seems like a terrible idea I have been shocked by new drills because I had to drill in 1/4 inch of water while kneeling. It really doesn't hurt to bad, its more annoying feeling.
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May 7, 2011 17:32
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dyne posted:I don't know if there's anything necessarily wrong with the cheap router bit sets. I have one and appreciate the variety of bits that I have. I haven't been disappointed by their quality and even if they're not as durable, I use them so lightly that I doubt I'll ever dull them. I also have a cheap bit set (and the same router!), but the MLCS set is in fact 1/2" shank, carbide tipped, with roller bearings. Sure, it'd be nice to have nothing but Freud or Eagle America bits, but that's more than I'm willing to spend right now. I figure I'll replace the MLCS stuff piecemeal as they wear out with nicer things, so I don't take as big a hit all at once. I should hopefully be better at routing by that time, as well.
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May 8, 2011 04:15
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Picked this guy up for $20 over the weekend. The plate with model number should be on the left side of the base, but it's missing. The front says Craftsman Radial 100. Based on the pictures and manuals over at vintagemachinery.org it looks like the 113.29401, from 1963. I'm looking forward to taking it apart and cleaning it up.
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May 9, 2011 19:56
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What sort of eye protection do you guys recommend for someone who already wears glasses? I've never found a pair of safety glasses or goggles that fit comfortably over my eyeglasses. I'm currently using a full face shield which isn't ideal, but I figure it's better than nothing. Also a question about nail guns. My nailgun seems to misfire quite a bit, either not discharging a nail or shooting it in such a way that it coils up without fully penetrating the material. Is this due to user error, or could it be indicative of substandard nails/nailer? The nailgun came with my compressor, so it certainly could be of poor quality.
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May 9, 2011 20:05
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stubblyhead posted:What sort of eye protection do you guys recommend for someone who already wears glasses? You can have a pair of prescription safety glasses made wherever you have your regular glasses made. They're usually like $50 for basic ones. quote:Is this due to user error, or could it be indicative of substandard nails/nailer? The nailgun came with my compressor, so it certainly could be of poor quality. A couple things come to mind. If the nails aren't exactly the right angle, head, and collation to match the gun it can increase the chance of a jamb. If your pressure regulator isn't set right for the gun and nail type that can cause a malfunction. Not enough or too much oil in the gun (a couple drops of air tool oil per use), bad technique, just plain old lovely gun maybe. What kind of nailer are we talking: staples, finish, framing, roofing? ibpooks fucked around with this message at 21:10 on May 9, 2011 |
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May 9, 2011 21:07
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ibpooks posted:A couple things come to mind. If the nails aren't exactly the right angle, head, and collation to match the gun it can increase the chance of a jamb. If your pressure regulator isn't set right for the gun and nail type that can cause a malfunction. Not enough or too much oil in the gun (a couple drops of air tool oil per use), bad technique, just plain old lovely gun maybe. What kind of nailer are we talking: staples, finish, framing, roofing? It's a combination finish nailer/stapler. This is the kit I have; the trim on the nailer is a little different, but it appears to be the same otherwise. I always put a few drops of oil in before using it, and my technique could certainly be bad since I've never used a nailgun before this.
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May 9, 2011 22:42
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Bet it's a lovely gun. Combination guns are seldom any good so go with two different guns for finishing nails and staples. Hitachi guns cost like $40-60 for finishing nailers and staple guns on Lowes. The quality is superb for a DIY-er.
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May 10, 2011 08:18
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This summer I have a couple of mid-sized home improvement projects on my plate (new deck/patio, new fence). I am still building up my assortment of tools and I'm thinking that this might be a good opportunity to pick up an impact driver. I already have a 12-volt Craftsman drill that I've been using around the house for the last couple of years. Additionally, I have a corded drill that I could be using for most heavy drilling tasks. So, should I pull the trigger? Or should I just tough it out with the drill? I'm okay with not being able to share batteries between the drill and driver, so I will likely just pick up a driver kit (without the drill). Brand-wise, I'm not particularly choosy. But, I'm thinking about the Bosch PS41. Should I be considering an 18-volt driver, instead? (It may be a little out of my price range.) pocket pool fucked around with this message at 17:58 on May 10, 2011 |
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May 10, 2011 16:10
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If size and weight aren't a concern, go with the bigger beefier 18V. I find my impact driver invaluable and the most used tool in my arsenal; definitely wouldn't skimp on it.
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May 11, 2011 02:55
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I'm going to be regularly removing/attaching the towing A frame on an old trailer, for storage, and also winding the corner steadies. I 'think' the heads on the bolts are about 1/2 inch or 3/4, not sure on the actual bolt itself. There's probably a bit of rust in places too. Will the impact driver in this cheap kit do the job? http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=164512 Or do I need more specifically an impact wrench rather than a driver? And am I likely to run out of tourqe with that one? I've never used an impact driver so not sure what I'm dealing with, but from what I've read this is the kind of application they shine in
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May 11, 2011 06:40
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pocket pool - The 10.8V range from Bosch is very good and perhaps the best buy in the 10.8-12V range. You can't go wrong with a driver like that. It stops at ~100Nm though so it can't wrestle the bolts on the wheels of your car but pretty much anything wood-related it can handle. Personally I only use the impact driver on very large screws in wood but people claim an impact driver works well for decks. MeKeV - Ugh, Ryobi. It's a decent enough DIY tool but with the prices you get professional tools for in the US, I would never buy something like that. Find a good Bosch/DeWalt(these are usually priced right)/Hitachi/Makita/Craftsman/Ridgid/whatever package with drill and driver 18V and >2.5Ah batteries instead. A little more pricey but worth it IMO. Oh and a regular 18V impact driver only manages around 150 Nm so tough bolts won't budge. You need something in the 4-500 Nm range for hefty poo poo. I usually loosen sturdy bolts manually before I set my 150 Nm Makita on them. I haven't bought that big fucker yet.
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May 11, 2011 09:11
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I got a mastercraft router bit kit (this one)  While it's nice to have that many bits for a cheap price, you have to be careful. Brand new, I put a bit in and the router started to shake like crazy. When I stopped it I saw that the work end of it came lopsided from the factory. I checked the rest and didn't find another like it, but I did find one with a roller bearing that didn't want to spin. If you can, check them before you buy. I lived 2 hours from the store so I just decided to keep it (I think it was on sale for $10 so not worth it in gas money alone). Another bit fired the roller bearing across the room when I was using it and destroyed the piece I was working on. The bits that I used often are noticeably dull. If you're just starting out, cheap kits are good, but upgrade asap. The quality of your work will improve and you'll be safer. Speaking of, any suggestions for some higher quality but lower priced ones kits? (I'm in Canada btw).
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May 11, 2011 18:24
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pocket pool posted:This summer I have a couple of mid-sized home improvement projects on my plate (new deck/patio, new fence). I am still building up my assortment of tools and I'm thinking that this might be a good opportunity to pick up an impact driver.
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May 11, 2011 21:01
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I don't know if any of you guys would be too familiar with flooring tools but I need a solid jamb saw. I like the long neck style for inside corners, better grip and maneuverability and I've got it narrowed down to two jamb saws, the Crain 825 Jamb Saw and the Roberts 10-55 Jamb Saw. My concern is that I can't really see the difference but I know there has to be something to justify the steep jump in price between the Roberts and the Crain. Does anyone know what the reliability is like on the Roberts vs the Crain? Does it come down to made in America vs China or something?
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May 13, 2011 20:19
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