|
jackyl posted:Interestingly, in my scuba training, they said to always leave some air in your tank to keep water out. It's been a while since I did any diving, but as I recall the logic there is that by keeping some pressure in, water from the outside environment can't get inside the tank (bad thing). I think the concern here is condensation.
|
#
¿
Mar 3, 2011 23:51
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 2, 2024 06:21 |
|
|
Iskariot posted:Edit2: AUGH! This is how a restoration should look: http://vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=8854 Wow, that's beautiful. Almost a shame to dirty it all up again.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 8, 2011 19:02
|
|
|
What's the conventional wisdom on getting tools from pawn shops? I was browsing through one today and they had a pretty good selection of power tools. They'd obviously seen some use, but presumably are in working order.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 13, 2011 02:39
|
|
|
blindjoe posted:It also got overspray on the neighbours porsche, so that part wasn't so fun. On my first reading I thought you had misspelled porch and didn't understand what the big deal was.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 31, 2011 07:51
|
|
|
grover posted:What's the technique for sharpening bits on a grinder? Do you need a jig to get the right angle, or is eyeballing it good enough? All my most-used bits are horribly dulled... Definitely watch that linked video at around 4:56 to see how he feels about sharpening jigs. e: Dude owns. If I could have a third grandpa I'd want it to be him. stubblyhead fucked around with this message at 07:40 on Apr 4, 2011 |
|
#
¿
Apr 4, 2011 07:34
|
|
|
ibpooks posted:There are two forces working against you. The big machines use "open coat" paper on the low grits, which is much better at removing old finish without gumming up. Most sand paper for small machines is "closed coat", which produces a smoother surface, but will gum up when you sand finished wood, especially flooring which has very thick varnish or poly coat. Does that mean that it's possible to find closed coat sandpaper for a belt sander?
|
|
#
¿
Apr 11, 2011 23:00
|
|
|
Blistex posted:I think he just said that closed coat is found on them, do you mean the open coat? (stuff that doesn't gum up as easily) D'oh, yes that is exactly what I meant.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 12, 2011 03:52
|
|
|
iForge posted:I have this in the corded version and can not recommend it enough! It cuts as well if not better than the porter cable corded one that I have, and the one handed design is great! Would that be this one?
|
|
#
¿
May 1, 2011 20:09
|
|
|
The Human Cow posted:My girlfriend got me a Bosch router kit (this one) for my birthday, and I'm super excited to get home and play with it. I've used a router sparingly in the past but never had my own...is there anything important I need to know before I start messing around with it? Try not to break your wrist.
|
|
#
¿
May 6, 2011 15:56
|
|
|
What sort of eye protection do you guys recommend for someone who already wears glasses? I've never found a pair of safety glasses or goggles that fit comfortably over my eyeglasses. I'm currently using a full face shield which isn't ideal, but I figure it's better than nothing. Also a question about nail guns. My nailgun seems to misfire quite a bit, either not discharging a nail or shooting it in such a way that it coils up without fully penetrating the material. Is this due to user error, or could it be indicative of substandard nails/nailer? The nailgun came with my compressor, so it certainly could be of poor quality.
|
|
#
¿
May 9, 2011 20:05
|
|
|
ibpooks posted:A couple things come to mind. If the nails aren't exactly the right angle, head, and collation to match the gun it can increase the chance of a jamb. If your pressure regulator isn't set right for the gun and nail type that can cause a malfunction. Not enough or too much oil in the gun (a couple drops of air tool oil per use), bad technique, just plain old lovely gun maybe. What kind of nailer are we talking: staples, finish, framing, roofing? It's a combination finish nailer/stapler. This is the kit I have; the trim on the nailer is a little different, but it appears to be the same otherwise. I always put a few drops of oil in before using it, and my technique could certainly be bad since I've never used a nailgun before this.
|
|
#
¿
May 9, 2011 22:42
|
|
|
Iskariot posted:Bet it's a lovely gun. Combination guns are seldom any good so go with two different guns for finishing nails and staples. Hitachi guns cost like $40-60 for finishing nailers and staple guns on Lowes. The quality is superb for a DIY-er. I picked up one of these today, and am quite happy with it. It was more like $80, but it didn't jam or misfire once.
|
|
#
¿
May 15, 2011 03:35
|
|
|
MrPete posted:Picked myself up a wood miner! Wow, looks like a great tool for removing pesky digits.
|
|
#
¿
May 20, 2011 02:47
|
|
|
ARE SAWS  http://www.npr.org/2011/05/25/136617222/advocates-urge-lawmakers-to-make-table-saws-safer In all seriousness, I'm glad this is getting some attention. I'm not sure if I think it should be required equipment, but it's good that this is getting some attention at least.
|
|
#
¿
May 25, 2011 16:13
|
|
|
ibpooks posted:Blade guards and recently (as of year or two ago) splitters/riving knives are mandatory on all table saws sold in the US. Fine Woodworking's website has a very informative video about riving knives and splitters, along with a pretty impressive demonstration of forced kickback. http://www.finewoodworking.com/ToolGuide/ToolGuideArticle.aspx?id=31896
|
|
#
¿
May 25, 2011 21:11
|
|
|
Nerobro posted:Because it relates to the table saw discussion: What's up, Black and Decker Workmate buddy?  My dad has one when I was a kid, and it was one of my first purchases when I started making little projects around the house. That said, you should submit your "table saw" setup to There, I Fixed it.. I hope I'm not the only one here that finds that setup to be loving terrifying.
|
|
#
¿
May 29, 2011 18:28
|
|
|
Latroc posted:I bought a DeWalt 18v cordless as My First Power Tool™ after buying a house and so far it has mainly been used for hanging curtains and a few pieces of drywall. Recently, I wanted to pre-drill some holes into wood so purchased a DeWalt drill bit set but the issue I keep having is that the bit will get stuck in the wood. When I attempt to reverse it out, the drill spins while the bit remains stationary. I was able to save the bit the last time this happened by twisting it out with a pair of pliers. Reviews on the drill bits mention that they are too "aggressive" for wood and can screw themselves into wood which I assume is what is happening to me. I have a cordless DeWalt and a set of DeWalt bits as well, and they have been very good to me. They make good stuff. It's hard to say what the issue it, but I think I would go along with others regarding making sure the chuck is tight enough. Give it a good twist until it starts clicking and you should be fine. Don't worry about the wrong clutch settings damaging your drill. As long as you don't change it (and particularly not the 1-2 torque setting) while it's spinning there should not be any problems. All the clutch does is adjust how hard it will try to turn before clutching out in order to avoid stripping screw heads. So if you're drilling into wood, crank it all the way up--mine even has a drill setting that I think will not clutch out at all. Something soft like brass screws would warrant a lower setting. Rd Rash 1000cc has a good point too about jogging the drill, particularly when driving screws. Good on you for making pilot holes before putting a screw in too, it makes a big difference.
|
|
#
¿
May 31, 2011 17:43
|
|
|
I'm thinking of putting in some steps in my yard using railroad ties as treads/risers. Since these things are larger than your average power saw can cut through, what is the best way of cutting them to length?
|
|
#
¿
Jun 6, 2011 04:27
|
|
|
Iskariot posted:Slightly off topic, but are these old risers? Be wary of http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Creosote I'm still in the planning stages, haven't gotten any ties yet. Are creosote-treated ties something I want to avoid altogether, or just something to be careful of when I'm working with them?
|
|
#
¿
Jun 6, 2011 18:37
|
|
|
The latter.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 6, 2011 23:08
|
|
|
Circus Pies! posted:Paint thinner won't clean that stuff off your skin, you'l need to use gasoline. Hmm, starting to think maybe this isn't the best plan. I don't know if I want to be working with something that takes gasoline to get off of me. I have a dog too, I would hate for her to get it on her paws. Maybe ground treated 6x6 is the way to go.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 7, 2011 05:57
|
|
|
Pinkerton posted:My wife and I are in the process of buying our first home so at last I am able to start assembling a power tool collection. We are planning on installing crown molding in a few rooms of the new house so I am in the market for a miter saw. I've noticed that prices for 10" compound miter saws are hundreds of dollars cheaper than larger 12" and sliding saws. I got a 10" Hitachi not long ago that I've been pretty happy with. It was on sale at Lowe's for $109 I think, but it's back up to $139 now. Still a good buy in my opinion. http://goo.gl/8AXOU
|
|
#
¿
Jun 13, 2011 16:44
|
|
|
ixo posted:I like the idea of a reel mower, but i'm wondering how effective they are in practice. I would love to not have to gently caress around with gas or batteries/cords, and being able to mow at 6am without pissing off the neighbors appeals to me. However I'll be mowing a quarter acre that isn't totally level, and the wife isn't on board with mulching the clippings. I would not recommend a push reel mower for a yard that size. My lot is .16 acres, and even that much was a bit of a chore. They are more physically demanding than you might think, and they are a pain in the rear end to sharpen. I got an electric Black and Decker last summer and couldn't be happier with it.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 12, 2011 06:29
|
|
|
jackyl posted:My take is a decent mid range corded impact drill OK, so dumb question time. What's the difference between an impact driver, an impact drill and a regular drill?
|
|
#
¿
Nov 2, 2011 06:24
|
|
|
GD_American posted:I just fell in love with Kreg screws. I want to throw every Phillips bit and screw in the ocean now. What are these, exactly? Are they different from other Robertson-head screws? e: Whoops guess I should have read the next page too. stubblyhead fucked around with this message at 07:02 on Nov 3, 2011 |
|
#
¿
Nov 3, 2011 06:43
|
|
|
A quick question about Dewalt batteries. I understand that older tools that were designed for NiCad can use the newer Li-Ion batteries. I have an old cordless drill, the DC727. The batteries it came with have long since bit the dust, and the replacements I got are rapidly going the same way. This drill uses a 12V battery, but the only 12v Li-Ion I see (http://www.dewalt.com/tools/cordless-batteries-dcb120.aspx) uses a totally different form factor than the 12V NiCad. Am I out of luck for using LiIon batteries with this drill?
|
|
#
¿
Nov 18, 2011 21:43
|
|
|
Josh Lyman posted:In a related question, I picked up a 19" Stanley toolbox from Target and it seems alright for $10, but it's not big enough to hold a cordless drill. Should I expect power tools to be kept in their own molded plastic containers? Most of them do come with a carrying case of some kind, so I'd just use that. Harbor freight's hands tools are ok I guess, no worse than the bargain brand at Lowe's anyway. I would be wary of anything from there that plugs in though.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 20, 2011 23:52
|
|
|
taqueso posted:Any downsides to an adapter? It seems like the perfect solution. Right-angle drills usually have a fair amount of power behind them, but if all you're doing is putting holes in 2x4s in tight spaces, then it will probably be just fine.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 26, 2011 07:31
|
|
|
Dobermaniac posted:I have about 200 dollars in giftcards for Lowes and was looking for a set of tools mainly for small projects around the house. I don't really have anything other than a few hand tools right now so this will be the first of many purchases. My brother who does a lot of construction work said I should get a Dewalt Lithium Ion multi pack of tools, but I didn't want to spend a crazy amount. Is Lion a must? I've seen a few Dewalt set with XRP batteries, but haven't found much information about xrp. Go for the LIon. I got a drill/impact driver set for my birthday and there's a big difference. As much or more power in a lighter package than my old NiCad one, and your batteries will last a lot longer as well (both in charge time and in lifetime).
|
|
#
¿
Mar 9, 2012 20:07
|
|
|
dur posted:I finally broke down and bought a Kreg jig today. I just got the $40 kit but holy crap is it awesome. Everyone should have one of these. Is that the thing that does the pocket drilling like for making cabinet fascia and poo poo like that?
|
|
#
¿
Mar 11, 2012 01:03
|
|
|
Circus Pies! posted:My eyesight is going bad and I am going to need glasses so I thought I would ask if anyone has any suggestions for glasses that will stand up to workshop conditions. Go to any optician, they should have some selection of frames suitable for safety glasses. They are very likely to be loving ugly though, so you probably will not want these for daily wear. I actually just got a pair myself since the ones that go over your glasses are very uncomfortable. They were not significantly more expensive than a regular pair of prescription glasses to the best of my recollection.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 24, 2012 20:45
|
|
|
grover posted:Or you can just get a pair of goggles or safety glasses that fit over normal glasses. The problem being that these are very uncomfortable and will just result in you never wearing them.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 24, 2012 21:52
|
|
|
I'd like to get one of those bladed head replacements for my string trimmer. I have an electric though, and the ones I've seen say they'll work with most gas trimmers. Is it ok to use these with an electric, or is there a model that is?
|
|
#
¿
May 12, 2012 08:05
|
|
|
Anubis posted:I recommend something like this: http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=10946282&kw=trimmer+head&origkw=Trimmer+head&searchId=55743962514 I actually saw one of these at the store this weekend, I'll take a closer look next time I'm in. I figured it was just a question of the electrics not being quite robust enough for the blades. coyo7e posted:How asmall of a cordless drill do you think can be purchased, and relied upon for light to medium-load IT-related work? I'm not expecting to drill cross-threaded screws out or something, but I would like a palm-sized drill for quick philips and mini-phillips torx work, and maybe even small-diamter drilling. In my former life aboard ship the electronics tech had a rechargeable screwdriver maybe 8-10", it even had a pivot point on the business end. I don't recall the brand though, Black and Decker maybe? e: This one is about 12". They have a smaller one (8.5"), but it uses AAs. stubblyhead fucked around with this message at 23:28 on May 14, 2012 |
|
#
¿
May 14, 2012 23:22
|
|
|
wormil posted:Sometimes it's the little things that make all the difference... I bought a set of Harbor Freight 12" files to use in my woodworking shop. Not only are they larger than my previous files but they cut better, faster and the size makes them easier to use. At $6.32 w/ a 20% off coupon, I'm going to buy another set: one for wood, one for metal. For all the poo poo people give Harbor Freight for their tool quality, their hand tools really are pretty decent. I've never actually tried it myself, but I hear they have a Craftsman-style lifetime replacement policy as well.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 20, 2012 16:55
|
|
|
Cross_ posted:Not sure if this is the right thread for it.. Make a jig and dremel it?
|
|
#
¿
Jun 26, 2012 17:07
|
|
|
Anyone try this Kreg rip guide? It's got good reviews, and I know Kreg is a well-regarded brand. I'd be interested to hear some first-hand experiences if anybody has them.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 8, 2012 10:01
|
|
|
powderific posted:I just discovered that running a circular saw + shop vac on my duplex's garage outlet blows a fuse/circuit breaker sometimes. Thing is, I think it's blowing a fuse on the other side of the duplex because I couldn't find the blown fuse on my panel and the power mysteriously returned after a few minutes. Haven't had the chance to ask the neighbors yet but I reeeally don't want to be knocking their power out constantly. Looks like I'll either have to forgo dust collection, get a cordless saw, or run 100' extension cord from inside the duplex somewhere. Ugh. I'm guessing you're a renter, but regardless if this is actually what's happening you should get it fixed.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 8, 2012 19:53
|
|
|
powderific posted:I'm going to ask my neighbors if their power went down to see if that is indeed what's going on, but I don't know if my landlord will want to pay for that to be rerouted or whatever. I suppose he really should since that'd also mean they're paying for the electricity we use in there. I was thinking more from the perspective of having control over the circuits in your own home, but this is an excellent point as well. I have no idea what tenant laws are like where you live, but I bet if your neighbor raises a big enough stink you could get this addressed. Unfortunately, if one circuit's going across the units then it's pretty likely others are as well.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 9, 2012 19:44
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 2, 2024 06:21 |
|
|
omgitstheinternet posted:
Harbor Freight can be pretty hit-or-miss. You might get something that'll be great for years, or it might break after a month. Some of their hand tools are decent though, and they carry a lifetime warranty. Personally I'll buy stuff there if I need it for what I'm working on right now and don't foresee needing it again, and only if it doesn't use electricity.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 11, 2013 22:03
|
|
