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Bet it's a lovely gun. Combination guns are seldom any good so go with two different guns for finishing nails and staples. Hitachi guns cost like $40-60 for finishing nailers and staple guns on Lowes. The quality is superb for a DIY-er.
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May 10, 2011 08:18
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pocket pool - The 10.8V range from Bosch is very good and perhaps the best buy in the 10.8-12V range. You can't go wrong with a driver like that. It stops at ~100Nm though so it can't wrestle the bolts on the wheels of your car but pretty much anything wood-related it can handle. Personally I only use the impact driver on very large screws in wood but people claim an impact driver works well for decks. MeKeV - Ugh, Ryobi. It's a decent enough DIY tool but with the prices you get professional tools for in the US, I would never buy something like that. Find a good Bosch/DeWalt(these are usually priced right)/Hitachi/Makita/Craftsman/Ridgid/whatever package with drill and driver 18V and >2.5Ah batteries instead. A little more pricey but worth it IMO. Oh and a regular 18V impact driver only manages around 150 Nm so tough bolts won't budge. You need something in the 4-500 Nm range for hefty poo poo. I usually loosen sturdy bolts manually before I set my 150 Nm Makita on them. I haven't bought that big fucker yet.
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May 11, 2011 09:11
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stubblyhead posted:I picked up one of these today, and am quite happy with it. It was more like $80, but it didn't jam or misfire once. My only problem with the Hitahi guns are that they don't like a lot of pressure. Think I'm down to 6-7 bar on the compressor. The upside is that these guns are reliable and cheap on air. I have a cheap Chinese compressor that's reliable but is noisy as hell. Less air spent means it refills less.
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May 15, 2011 13:11
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mrglynis posted:Well I bought a new circular saw today. Got this one here: Metabo has a circular saw that doubles as a plunge saw - http://www.metabo.com/Plunge-Cut-and-Circular-Saw-KSE-55-Vario-Plus.31177.0.html I still don't own a plunge saw but it's pretty far up my DOWANTNOW list. Ideally I would get the Mafell so I could tell my friends that their Festool saws are "cheap" but I may settle for a Makita or Metabo. The DeWalt is the poorest choice in all tests I've seen.
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May 19, 2011 08:12
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themachine posted:I am need of new drill bits. A long time ago, I bought a big DeWalt box of bits from Home Depot, and it lasted alright. A lot of the bits broke eventually, and some have become lost. I'd like to get another set, but am not sure what the best bang for my buck is. Should I just go with a major name all in one set (DeWalt, Milwaukee, etc.), is there some other brand I should look at, or should I just buy bits here and there from whatever name is available? I've tried Bosch, DeWalt and Hitachi bits that were plain awful.
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May 19, 2011 08:17
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Aw, man! Just when I thought I had landed on a favorite bit set: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sfA_NQHT7JI&feature=youtu.be Sales pitch aside, the last bit (*cackle*) of the video is interesting. The slipping of the bit is a sure way to ruin both screw and bit.
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May 20, 2011 13:25
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I strongly dislike Sawstop because it's so obvious that the inventor is lobbying his rear end off for his product. He's a patent lawyer isn't he? I'm all for safety, I even support enforcing rules, but not due to some prick trying to get a license to print money. I liked this design: http://www.whirlwindtool.com/ I even think I'm going to snag the design for the anti-kickback device.
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May 25, 2011 22:25
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ibpooks posted:Wouldn't you do the same? Wouldn't anyone? He has millions of dollars of his own money and investor money on the line. He spent years and actually created a product that was novel and that solves a major problem in society. Isn't this exactly what the patent system is for? The whirlwind tackles another safety issue which costs the community millions - dust. Are vacuums mandatory on saws? Are dust masks? Probably not but the health issues due to wood dust exposure can probably rival cutting accidents. Just to be clear, from an objective PoV, I think the SS is pretty neat. I like the overall design of the Whirlwind a lot more but the SS is more compact and better suited for contractor saws for instance. I endorse safety products as well. My only gripe is how he's trying to market this via trying to enforce it by laws.
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May 26, 2011 09:28
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Yeah, I don't buy the dumb argument either. Sure a lot of accidents are due to stupid mistakes but think about stupid mistakes you've done in your life. Now imagine they took a couple of fingers off. Not introducing a safety concept because other products don't have them isn't really an argument either. Any bit helps. Making one patented product mandatory on the other hand, that rubs me the wrong way. I can set up a TS with simple safety measures that is almost impossible to shove fingers into without wanting to put them in. Look at the box on top of the Whirlwind, without the electronics, and you have the gist of it. If people continue to use thumbs to push pieces through the cut, well, then they entered the stupid zone and they can go pick up a Sawstop to help brain activity. I haven't studied the actual Sawstop saws, just the mechanism used to stop the blade. It's pretty cool but misfires quite a lot if you're working with humid wood according to a British woodworking forum. If you are lucky you need to change the blade and mechanism, unlucky and the whole frame under the table becomes crooked due to the massive force of stopping the blade and motor dead. Small price for your fingers, pretty expensive if your wood piece was a bit damp. Not directly related but I dropped a chain-saw on my knee once. I was wearing safety pants and got away from it with a scrap and a racing heart. Done many dumb things without safety gear but gotten away with it relatively unharmed.
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May 26, 2011 20:44
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Not even sure it was that. Just a hard dump on my knee and the sudden realization what had happened. Think it was a tree falling unexpected or something, I can't really remember. Years ago. Other fun incidents: Dropping an anvil on my foot the one day I wore my Doc Martens. Think the tip of my foot got pushed half an inch down into the gravel. Not nearly as dangerous as it hit the tip of the toes but they would have been paste in light footwear. (Yeah, I wore steel-tips from then on). Ah, the joys of growing up on a farm with an engineer dad. <3
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May 27, 2011 22:35
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Your... boss? Do you work in garbage collection and your boss is a stereotype American/Italian? Don't buy stolen goods. You're funding people that may steal from you next.
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May 28, 2011 12:18
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Boogeyman posted:My dad has a shop over at his place, and most of his larger equipment is older stuff that he bought around 30 years ago or so. He has a DeWalt 10" radial arm saw (model 7740/3421 type 3) that finally bit the dust last week. I noticed that he had a newer radial arm saw up in the garage and asked him what happened to the old one. Apparently he was cutting some dadoes and he smelled something electrical burning, so he shut the saw off and let it sit for a bit. He started it back up again later and it shot flames out of the motor housing, then died (even in death, radial arm saws are Since your dad has two I'm not sure it's worth trying to salvage the burnt one. OWWM.org may have some pointers? You could also sell out parts form the old one. Always people looking to get parts.
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May 31, 2011 21:14
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Nerobro posted:A radial arm saw can't pick up the material and kick it back at you if it lifts to the top of the blade.
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Jun 2, 2011 11:48
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kafkasgoldfish posted:Are they good for anything other than breaking down large panels? I know the track saw manufacturers brag how you can trim doors or do shallow cuts in wood floors for replacing sections but considering that even the Makita version costs three times what their regular circular saws cost, is it worth it? The DeWalt is claimed to be shite compared to other track saws. I haven't used it but it gets a lot of negative press in Europe. The Makita is the best deal for the money. Most of the features of the Festool and some new ones. The Fes TS55 is the industry standard. Expensive as hell but good. The best track saw money can buy right now is probably the Mafell MT55. Mafell is priced as Festool and the quality is as good.
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Jun 3, 2011 09:20
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Circus Pies! posted:Are you a RAS salesman? I just don't like them.
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Jun 3, 2011 22:00
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Archives posted:I always figured there was a reason they stopped making the drat things and only crazy internet people recommend them. The RAS also got a reputation as unsafe because people were idiots. No one spoke of the countless idiots that lost limbs and lives on TSes at the time. It also got a rep for being inaccurate. This is a bigger weakness on a RAS than a TS - the RAS needs more tuning. It does more than a TS without countless jigs though. I'm such a RAS nerd and I haven't even put mine back together. 
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Jun 3, 2011 22:10
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ibpooks posted:I feel like all of the good qualities of the RAS have been done better with sliding compound miter saws, which I guess are a type of radial arm saws. Nope. A miter saw is an advances chop saw. It does cross cuts, miter and bevel. That's it. A TS or RAS can do all the functions of a miter saw, the miter saw can do a fraction of the things a TS or RAS can. It is however available and at good prices.
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Jun 3, 2011 22:13
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ibpooks posted:I think a big part of it is the limited range of material sizes you can realistically work on a RAS. A tablesaw is only limited by the size of the room it is in whereas a RAS has a fixed arm length that puts an upper bound on what you can do with the saw. ibpooks posted:I know it can do more, but a good 95% of the work that most people encounter are crosscuts, miters and bevels. The SCMS meets the needs of the vast majority of the market out there which really limits the appeal of the RAS. Depends on what you mean by "most people" too, of course. If by normal you mean some guy doing a handful of DIY jobs then sure. But then you could also buy a good handsaw and some angles.
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Jun 3, 2011 22:26
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Translation is killing me here but the "non-hubbed" stuff, is it threaded? In that case it's safe to use without the nut. Your grinder rotates in the opposite direction of the threads and your disc or wire wheel will tighten itself when you use it. Just don't be lazy tightening it by hand. I did that with a quick-stop grinder and without having used the wire wheel. Needless to say the wire wheel came flying as the spindle stopped and the wheel was rotating at 20k RPM. Nothing really dangerous but that fucker flew like I was Jehovahs Witness standing in it's doorway. A good tug nothing more. They get bitchy when you try to get them off as using them tighten them.
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Jun 4, 2011 20:49
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Chauncey posted:I don't get how you're supposed to conveniently rip anything on a radial arm saw. Aren't you limited by the amount of travel of the saw head? Is there a new tool that people are calling a radial arm saw but it isn't?
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Jun 5, 2011 13:17
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Nerobro posted:The max rip length is half the length of the room you have it in. you can turn the head 90 degrees and just push stock right through. You can get kickback though. That's why you have the kickback mechanism attached to the arm. The guard should be lowered down to the material in front. You feed sheets at the opposite direction when ripping so the force of the blade is up and towards you. If you don't set the guard and kickback device up properly, material can both climb and shoot back at you. My DeWalt 110, which is a re-branded Elu, has a completely different guard. It has two riving knives at both ends that's attached to a bracket. You can lower the knives as you wish by shifting the bracket. The kickback "fingers" are attached to a lip that slides over the guard. So when ripping something thin, the guard and lip look like pacman mouth down. It's pretty neat compared to the US default DeWalt guards. Mine is damaged and missing the fingers so I have to ponder up something to make it safe.
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Jun 5, 2011 22:09
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stubblyhead posted:I'm thinking of putting in some steps in my yard using railroad ties as treads/risers. Since these things are larger than your average power saw can cut through, what is the best way of cutting them to length?
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Jun 6, 2011 10:57
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Pinkerton posted:My wife and I are in the process of buying our first home so at last I am able to start assembling a power tool collection. We are planning on installing crown molding in a few rooms of the new house so I am in the market for a miter saw. I've noticed that prices for 10" compound miter saws are hundreds of dollars cheaper than larger 12" and sliding saws.
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Jun 13, 2011 13:50
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drat you Americans and your wonderful tool prices! I have a 8.5" myself and I get by comfortably. A 4"x4" would be problematic but I never cut anything that large really. A 10" would do that easily and a 12" adds weight, size and a hefty price tag on new blades. For a DIY-er a 10" will suffice. I would never tag you as a simple DIY-er, wormil. I will upgrade my Hitachi 8.5" at some point. But then I am restoring that RAS which will take care of most of the cross-cut work. Smaller miter saws have size and weight going for them so I can lend mine out to mates without them needing a forklift and truck.
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Jun 15, 2011 11:30
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Re: Miter saws - I'd rather have my small 8.5" sliding miter than a fixed 10 or 12". Getting a sliding miter saw is IMO fundamental. Dual bevel is more of a luxury issue. iForge: Any will do as the vise will look great no matter the paint (dare you to paint it pink!). I've recently fallen in love with dark gray hammer paint. Like this: http://www.jamesriser.com/Machinery/GortonPantograph/Restore.html It's subtly pimp.
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Jun 16, 2011 13:55
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Or pop on over to Mecca itself - http://owwm.org/
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Jun 16, 2011 16:10
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I got a new toy: http://www.mafell.com/produkte/prod_saegen_kst55_i.html This is the previous model of Mafells track saw and lacks a few of the features the MT55 has but it's mostly how easy things are to set up (two levers instead of one mostly) and the KST 55 comes with a retractable riving knife that the MT 55 doesn't have. The missing features are easy-to-use ones, like one-button blade removal and so on. The KST 55 is sold (or was, I dunno) as a combined circular saw/track saw where as the MT 55 is a pure track saw. No idea why Mafell discontinued the knife, the Norwegian importer was told that it wasn't needed as electronics in the saw would prevent kickback. Doesn't help burns though. I got this with a kickass side rail and in a systainer. No tracks. List price was $1,350.00  but I got it for $360. Still need to buy tracks for it which will be another $400 for 2x160cm tracks, two clamps, a connection piece and a bag to store it in.It's made from loving magnesium. I get a boner simply looking at it.
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Jun 21, 2011 09:40
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ibpooks posted:As cool as the saws and routers are, the sanders are what's really cool in the Festool line. They have drat near dust free sanding all the way from rough paint stripping to very fine polishing. Speaking of sanders, I saw a demo of the new Mafell sander. A regular plane sander which is pretty out of style at the moment. The neat thing with this was perfect dust gathering and no vibration. They demonstrated this with putting a glass of water on top of it while sanding. It was like a Rolls-Royce test only with a sander! Pretty cool. The price... not so much.
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Jun 27, 2011 22:38
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Get a Fein. Perfect for this kind of job and many, many others. Once you have one you'll be amazed you coul function without one for all these years. Copies from Bosch, Craftsman, etc will work as well but the original is still the best. http://www.multimaster.info/fein-multimaster/us/en/main/
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Jul 3, 2011 13:56
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Ahz posted:Any good recommendations on a value priced corded circular saw? Nothing in the ryobi range, but closer to $100 vs. $150+.
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Jul 3, 2011 14:05
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Bank posted:Good call. Picked up a Dremel for $90 at Home Depot -- the Fein was closer to $300, and I couldn't foresee myself spending that much on it, especially when HF has a generic for ~$30. Good job on the floor. I once did something similar with a saw attachment to a regular Dremel. Needless to say it was a grueling experience.
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Jul 4, 2011 10:53
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Trench_Rat posted:cross posting from Ask and Tell European tool store that ships internationally: http://www.toolstop.co.uk/fein-fmm250q-multimaster-top-kit-accessories-240v-p10713 Get the Top pack. Fein racks in the money on attachments and your father will use the supplied stuff from a Top pack for a long time. Oh and the starter version has a bolt locking the attachments in place instead of the fantastic lever. You want the lever.
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Jul 9, 2011 22:56
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Ja, det har jeg. Fein started dropping the price once Bosch made and marketed the green version to DIY-ers. After that all sorts of copies have been made and Fein has dropped the price significantly. I wouldn't get one from the US if that meant running it through a converter. The Top Plus package should be available for 3000 NOK on sale somewhere. Then you get a Norwegian warranty and the Top Plus package contains more attachments than the Top. It's the only tool that's actually smart to buy locally. Perhaps attachments are slightly cheaper in the US. Rule of thumb: Never get corded tools from the US, always cordless. Then you only need to rebuild/replace the charger, not run some lovely converter every time you want to use your tool. (*sniff* Hilti prices in the US. They mock me!)
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Jul 10, 2011 22:33
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BrokenKnucklez posted:What are peoples opinion on Hitatchi Power tools, there is a sale going on at a local hardware store for a impact driver/ 1/2 drill combo for 150. Hitachi is converting their drills and drivers to brush-less motors so the above package is probably with brushes. It doesn't really affect you as you'd be hard pressed to wear out the brushes on quality tools with DIY use.
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Jul 11, 2011 07:44
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Not really tools but I view work wear as part of my tool arsenal. I recently bought a few Blåkläder items: http://www.blakladerusa.com/catalog/workpants/glasgow_kilt/ http://www.blaklader.com/no/produkter/handverk/bukser/15001320-bukse-handverk-x1500/khaki-svart-2899/ (couldn't find this on the US site) http://www.blakladerusa.com/catalog/accessories/heavy_duty_knee_padd/ http://www.blakladerusa.com/catalog/accessories/suspenders/ http://www.blaklader.com/no/produkter/handskar/hansker/22453942-arbeidshanske-freyr/ http://www.blakladerusa.com/catalog/tops/base_performance_tee/ I must say I'm extremely impressed with the quality and thought that has gone into these products. The pants felt worn-in when I tried them in the store. Simply amazing. I added suspenders and the gel knee pads to the pants. I like having suspenders when I end up with half a tool box and three boxes of screws in the pockets. Having to tighten the belt enough for the pants to stay on and seeing your balls turn blue is not for me. The knee pads are great when I mess around on my knees but they are a bit stiff so they flatten the knee in the pants when I stand up. Blåkläder should have molded a curve in them. I will probably cut some grooves in them to fix this. Maybe drill some holes in as well to get some air in. Pants are robust and heavy so they favor cool to cold weather. Smooth material so they don't rub on knees. Still not completely used to the pockets compared to my old pants but I'll get the hang of it. The kilt is fantastic of course. If you are comfortable wearing it. If you're not you're a pussy. A bit limited with utility pockets but you obviously can't get as much as in pants. The left side pocket feels slightly to far to the front so I sometimes feel my torpedo level hit my knee when I walk, very minor issue. It's pure sex wearing it in hot weather but obviously no knee pads. poo poo, you're so manly in this your knees can take it. The gloves are ok. They are a tight fit and it feels like the seams rub ever so slightly against my hands. Maybe I need to get used to them. Very good work gloves when you need to do detailed work, not so good when you need more protection against bumping your hand against stuff and so on. Strong stuff though. I've gripped boards with nails sticking through them without any poking though. For detailed work I still favor finger-less gloves. The t-shirts are nice. Unlike regular cotton t-shirts, these really breathe. I've yet to see sweat stains even when I was soaking. You feel the slightest breeze in these. I usually wear regular cotton t-shirts but I picked up a few of these on sale and I think it was worth it. I expect these will work well to transport perspiration under other clothes during the winter as well. Blåkläder has a lifetime warranty on the seams which is nice as my last pants suddenly became very "kilt-y". The seam from the crotch to one of the knees ripped. My new pants are superior to my old one so I expect I won't need the warranty. Blåkläder means "Blue clothes" in Swedish by the way. I must say I have become a fan. drat those ingenious Swedes.
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Aug 13, 2011 22:39
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To be frank, I've never used more than regular safety glasses and hearing protection when grinding. Positioning and know-how has kept me safe for now. If you get bits of metal from the actual grinding in your visor, you are aiming the cutoff blast at it. Just don't do that. Equally, don't aim it at your body unless it is protected against some heat and a few drops of molten metal. I've never caught fire using a grinder and wearing cotton/nylon. I have caught fire welding and gas cutting. I've had exploding discs but there's little mass in them once they shatter and I never (ok, seldom) take the protection screen of the grinder. I try to keep that between me and the disc. When I'm grinding or cutting I'm focused like a motherfucker. What makes me have near accidents is putting the grinder down or having to adjust something. I clearly need a grinder with a motor break. PS: I'm not against safety. All I'm saying is that visors, leather aprons and whatnot are not good safety substitutes for good common sense. PSS: Last time cutting I used 0.8mm discs. Such a treat to cut with. Fast, nice even cut, little heat. Have to find more of those. I was cutting 200x200x6 mm square tubing with a small 125mm grinder without a hitch. It's only 750W. Used up one disc for a whole cut. Oh and I did it in a kilt. 
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Aug 26, 2011 09:14
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Slung Blade posted:Backyard Blacksmith forges in a utilikilt, so do you apparently, and I am seriously considering it. I don't really know why. http://www.blakladerusa.com/catalog/workpants/glasgow_kilt/ Doesn't look at nice as the Utilikilt but it works. The Ulilikilts can't hold as many tools by the looks of it. It's a step up from wearing shorts when working. If you are careless you expose your balls to all sorts of dangers but if you use the kilt correctly, you can shield the family jewels and lower legs with the front of the kilt. It's more or less like walking around in your boxers and who doesn't like that?
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Aug 28, 2011 12:50
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There's no reason not to, true, but it's just  when you're working and need to cut a couple of nails or something. It disrupts work flow. It is lazy but work has to be done.The shield is key. By positioning you can only be subjected to ricochets and not direct fragments. The kinetic energy in the fragment is usually pretty depleted at that point. I haven't had many exploding discs but it has happened. Usually my fault as I bent the disc by twisting the grinder or something like it. I try not to be semi-naked when handling a large grinder with a hefty disc because of the reasons you describe. I once got a piece of steel stuck in my forearm when looking at my brother beating some steel into submission on an anvil. About half a thumbnail in size. The thing dug itself pretty deep so I couldn't get it out by using an ice cube and a needle. The doctor dug in my arm for five minutes or so getting it out. Once out we could see what looked like barbs that made it stick in the wound like hell. I threatened to nail my brother to the door for what he had done.
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Sep 20, 2011 19:58
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I must admit that I sometimes... No, almost always use my regular glasses whatever I do.  I blame my father for bad influence. I'm too lazy to put on contacts to do work and safety glasses that go on top of regular glasses are, well, slightly terrible to say the least. Especially with a mask.I should get contact lenses that I can wear for a month so lazy doesn't cost me an eye. Wonder if I could get decent working glasses somewhere for a good price. Latest tool purchases: http://www.toolstop.co.uk/makita-bfr550z-li-ion-cordless-auto-feed-screwdriver-18v-naked-p4533 http://www.toolstop.co.uk/metabo-sxe450-turbotec-240v-350w-150mm-disc-sander-50-free-sanding-discs-p8651 http://www.toolstop.co.uk/makita-bmr101-job-site-radio-with-dab-p14463 Haven't used them much yet. Still preparing to set up drywall. I expect fastening will be less of a PITA with the driver.
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Sep 23, 2011 08:04
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Just have to drop this here: http://www.makita.co.nz/products/detail.lsd?item=BBY180Z Makita really does have a cordless alternative for everything.
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Sep 23, 2011 14:28
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