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That's what I've gathered.
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Oct 5, 2011 19:42
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what is this posted:My only concern was that deWalt was phasing out their 36v line in favor of the 20v line. The price is reasonable, I like deWalt in general, and you can buy batteries online for sort-of-reasonable prices. The new 20/18V DeWalt line is just a redesign as DeWalt moved to similar battery design as all the other major manufacturers. Other than that I don't know what to tell you really. I've worked with 36V Bosch tools briefly and they are heavy as poo poo but get the job done. Having a 18V circular and reciprocating saws, I get why you want something beefy. The drill is just too heavy for regular use, I find. Whenever I need something a 18V drill can't so, I use an impact driver. I have an all wood house so maybe the 36V is good for masonry work? I don't know.
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Oct 12, 2011 13:17
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kid sinister posted:regular drill = turns drill bits and anything else that can fit in the chuck Hammer drill: The hammer function is for masonry work. A small combo drill with hammer function can only punch small holes for screws and such. You need a larger hammer drill if you want to drill into concrete. Impact driver: Works like a drill driver when there no to little load. Once the torque goes up, it "punches" the bolt/screw in by spinning up a disc inside the impact driver and applying that force to the chuck. It does this typically 3000 times per minute. The result is that you hear a hammering type sound from the driver. This is far easier on the screw, the driver and your arms than using pure torque. It also allows for using far more torque than a regular drill driver. A beefy drill can output something like 40Nm. A small impact driver manages 150Nm. Even a small 10.8V 1Ah impact driver manages 100+ Nm. It's fantastic to loosen stuck bolts and screws and you don't have to worry as much about the bit popping out of the head of the screw. I've screwed a couple hundreds of torx 6x100mm screws lately and it was near impossible to do with a regular drill. This was in the ceiling and I couldn't apply enough preassure to the drill to manage it. the impact driver gave no fucks and I could dangle anywhere as long as I got a good angle on the driver.
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Nov 2, 2011 10:18
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Iskariot posted:Latest tool purchases: An auto feed screwdriver is loving cheating. It makes putting up drywall so much easier. The Makita is a bit picky about the angle so you have to get used to it. If I didn't have a ton of 18V Makita stuff already, I might have gone with a corder Senco instead. They have a model that does 25-75mm screws IIRC. Perfect for decks and drywall. American have the option to get a Hilti combo for what? $140? That's $1000 here. No kidding. Probably the safest bet and used by countless contractors around the world. The orbital sander is nice. Has a lot of different settings so you can get it just right. Sturdy. After using it on dried mud on the drywall, I can see why Festool makes so many holes for dust extraction. The eight ones on regular orbital sanders isn't enough. Radio is pretty good. Decent sound in it. DAB is great is I live in some sort of deadzone. Lasts a long while on a single battery (18V 3Ah).
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Nov 2, 2011 10:39
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echomadman posted:Can anyone recommend a Dremel type tool that is not a bucket of poo poo? Gone through a few cheap generic ones and they lasted ok for their ~€20 pricerange but all broke in under a year. I'm thinking of getting something like this: http://www.toolstop.co.uk/makita-gd0800c-high-speed-die-grinder-750w-110v-p4059 as I also think Dremels are pretty lovely. It's not that I break them, they are just so tiny with puny motors. Just make sure you look for one with variable speed. A lot of the straight die grinders have fixed speed like a regular grinder.
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Nov 3, 2011 09:25
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dwoloz posted:Looked at some of the oscillating multi tools? I've been thinking about buying one, they seem pretty handy
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Nov 4, 2011 10:35
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You can get LiIon batteries for that model but it's going to be nearly as expensive as a new drill for two batteries and a charger. May as well upgrade to a newer model. If you don't, look at third-party retailers. Brush-less drills and drivers are here now. Makita's newest impact driver is brush-less. Hitachi has a drill that's been out for ages that's brush-less. Festool/Protool have brush-less models. Looking forward for others to follow.
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Nov 19, 2011 22:42
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"Made in China" doesn't mean it's typical Chinese no-name bullshit. Almost every tool manufacturer makes stuff in China and the ones that don't probably buy a lot of parts from China. Chinese companies makes things according to specs and can do so as well as a high-end German company if you hand over enough money. That said I try to stay clear of HF-type tools as they usually break or are inaccurate. Even if I could buy five or ten no-name Chinese pliers for the price of a quality German one, I usually get the latter. If nothing else, it won't break on me when I need it and I don't have to contribute to the massive pollution due to cheap manufacturing. If you get no-name poo poo, get stuff with warranty. If it breaks, return it. This makes the product more expensive for the store and they may discontinue the bullshit tools. This may in turn lead to more quality tools being sold and prices drop from quantity production. Better tools at lower price. /end rant
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Nov 22, 2011 09:50
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ibpooks posted:Except that Chinese manufacturers routinely attempt to build under-spec and hide it, only issuing mea culpas when they get caught. All of the regulatory framework in the country is corrupt and supports the deception in every way they can. The whole approach is how can we do the least possible quality and not lose the contracts (which are negotiated with huge kickbacks and bribes). I'm not saying the USA and European manufacturers are angels, but there is a huge difference. My uncle used to work as an overseer for cruise ship construction. He traveled all over the world to keep work in check for his employer, China among them. My brother often goes to Korea to interact with a large construction company. There are vast cultural differences, some good, some bad.
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Nov 23, 2011 09:20
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Are those... Wera bottle openers? I must have one now!  Bosch made bottle openers using their new grinder handle with vibration reduction. They were pretty neat.
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Nov 25, 2011 10:23
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I like the concept with the new ratchets but I have no personal experience. It seems like clever development. However! The set liked means I can't use my impact driver with the sockets, nor can I use other brand sockets with the ratchet. It could be handled by a converter bit/socket thing for the ratchet, I guess and perhaps a special socket for 1/2" square but it's cumbersome.
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Nov 28, 2011 14:08
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Reggie Died posted:I needed a sliding mitre saw today in a pinch, and as luck would have it found the Makita LS1016 on sale for $499CDN. The sale was ending today so I bought it. Edit: Re: China. I get annoyed with people drawing stereotypical conclusions when they see something made in China. It's simply not true. "Oh, quality dropped as soon as they moved production to China". It probably didn't. Chances are quality dropped because we, as a society, demand stuff for less money and see quality as a secondary factor. By softening up demands and moving production to China, we get cheaper products. And worse quality. If quality control of Chinese manufacturers is something you cut back on, perhaps you can expect lacking quality. That does not mean everything from China means it's poo poo. I'd wager that 100% of all mobile phones and computers contain something made in China and we rely on these devices constantly. Iskariot fucked around with this message at 13:24 on Dec 1, 2011 |
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Dec 1, 2011 13:18
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Plunge saw galore! (hotlinking from Toolstop so if no images appear, yell at me and I'll host them) Bosch seems to have begun shipping their new plunge saw:  From what I can see, this is exactly the same rail system as Mafell uses (not verified). I'm hoping it is because Mafell rails are super expensive and I haven't gotten around to buying some for my KST55. I'll take the saw with me to a shop and verify this when they start getting the saw on display. AEG suddenly made this:  AEG is, from what I've gathered, owned by TTI group and Ridgid is a licensed brand name for TTI in the US (for powertools). This could mean that you'll see the orange plunge saw under the Ridgid name in the US.
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Dec 8, 2011 10:20
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Circus Pies! posted:Well gently caress, I've been robbed. Hope your insurance works out and you can get newer and better replacements.
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Dec 12, 2011 10:40
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I like the look of those Gerber knives. The ones people usually post here are too thick and have to be pocketed which I don't like. I carry a knife like this when I'm doing a lot of fine cuts: http://www.stanleytools.com/default...+Snap-Off+Knife It's cumbersome and has to be pocketed so I seldom have it on me when I'm not planning a lot of cuts. I like having a sharp knife attached to my work pants at all times and the larger fixed blade Hultafors ones I have get dull as they are used for all sorts of abuse. I have a lovely Husky flip-out that's basically a carbine hook with a blade. It's poor quality but I like it because I can get to it one handed, I always remember to snap it back on and it never falls off. I would like a better designed, better quality knife though. Something with a snap mechanism so it will work as well as the Husky. Belt clips don't work as I have it on the front of loose nail pockets on my work pants. Any ideas? I've only seen pocket or belt clip knives so far.
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Dec 14, 2011 10:10
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:That being said, all of his other power tools are Bosch. Contractor's saw, chop saw, circular saw, reciprocating saw, hammer drill, corded drill, laser, laser level, other laser, and rotating laser. You'd think the Bosch rep buys him vacations at this point.
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Dec 24, 2011 23:16
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The337th posted:I'm highly biased towards these Sheffield foldback razor knives: http://www.sheffield-tools.com/products/show/12613 I know I can attach a carbine hook by using a ring inside the hole at the back but then the whole thing hangs pretty far down. In my case it would mean the thing would hit my balls in case it got a good swing.
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Jan 30, 2012 10:29
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Reporting back on the Gerber EAB. I like it since it doesnt gum up a lot. But I keep having to tighten the screw that lets the knife open so it doesnt have any slop when fully open. Anyone know if they make a tool to tighten a bolt with 2 notches on each side of it?
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Feb 1, 2012 11:18
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drat. I really liked the shape and size of it. I'm trying to keep it as small(and short given that I have to attach a carbine hook to it) as possible. I guess I could try to use a ring of some sort. With a fixed hook, it's easier to clasp it on my work pants with gloves. If there are several links this will be difficult. It's baffling that every god drat foldout knife like this doesn't have a decent hole for a hook. Belt clips are useless when I work outside and have a jacket on and the whole point is being able to attach and detach with just one hand. I found a single regular foldout with what I have in mind: http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202971869/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053 But regular blades are a PITA as I want something I can cut into concrete and otherwise ruin and simply change the blade in a matter of seconds. In other tool news: I finally ponied up the cash for rails for my Mafell track saw. Expensive as hell but the quality is superb. This package is the one I got: http://www.axminster.co.uk/mafell-mafell-guide-rail-kit-2-x-16m-rails-connector-clamps-and-bag-prod807328/ I've seen a few carpenters complain about the Festool rails. Apparently the edges aren't always at a 90 degree angle (easily fixed by trimming off a millimeter or two on a mitre saw) and the joint mechanism isn't perfect. The Mafell rails are perfect in that regard. I think I'm going to chop one of the rails in two, one 60cm piece and one 100cm. That way I have smaller rails for appropriate tasks. I'll still be able to cut 260cm with the longest rails joined.
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Feb 2, 2012 10:09
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Remulak posted:Christ, that's brilliant! It's an interesting approach to the manual cutters though. The ones I've seen have been a massive knife that you slam down on the board and they are next to useless on quality laminate. (In before "it's not hardwood so it can't be high-end").
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Mar 6, 2012 12:10
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Been doing a bit of research on this as safety goggles on top of glasses is a PITA. CAT has glasses like the the ones you discussed. A regular pair with some mongoloid plastic on the side. I don't like them since they don't protect against dust and shrapnel well enough. (I have gotten a steel shrapnel in my eye because the glasses didn't fit snugly around the eyes) The only ones I've found that seem to incorporate both ease, protection and (quite important IMO) changeability are these: http://www.contacts.net.nz/prescription-safety-glasses/bolle-tracker-2 The goggle part is like typical Oakley sunglasses but with various hazard certifications, plus pads that sits on your brow and cheeks. The strap is adjustable and removable. The glass outside is changeable and can be found in three or four different colors (as far as I've found). The actual glasses inside the goggle is like a pince-nez: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pince-nez but I don't think they are usable without the frame. This is the best option I've found so far. They are dirt cheap online and the inner part can be fitted with prescription glasses at any optician. Anyone found a better option? Like Circus Pies! I need glasses and I can't be arsed to use contacts. I've even read some scare stories with metal work and metal dust coming in between the lens and the eye. I'm currently just using my regular glasses and add some 3M goggles on top if it's really messy work. It's hardly ideal as they tend to fog up if it's hard work.
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Mar 24, 2012 21:42
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Depends on how small you want them. Wera has a set of small screwdrivers and I challenge anyone to find a better quality brand. I've put Wera bits through so much abuse that I felt pity for them. Bought a set of regular screwdrivers and they are ace. I'm picking up a small set next time I'm at a place where they sell them because they are just that good.
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Apr 18, 2012 21:32
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Hm, I think the set I'm referring to might be too large for what you are describing. This is the set: http://www.amazon.com/Wera-05118150003-Kraftform-Electronics-Screwdriver/dp/B0001P18PA/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1334786384&sr=8-8
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Apr 18, 2012 23:00
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dwoloz posted:Waited a while to pull the trigger on an oscillating multitool but finally did it....why did I want so long?!! I use it all the time now, mostly for plunge cutting wood. Got a Bosch MX25 Speaking of, Makita finally followed the trend with a battery and corded version. Not very interesting (no tool-less blade change - boo!), but! 18V battery version! With regular 18V batteries. IIRC, only the new Fein SuperCut cordless has as much juice and that costs around $1000 and up. http://toolguyd.com/makita-oscillating-multi-tools/
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Apr 19, 2012 12:19
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coyo7e posted:How asmall of a cordless drill do you think can be purchased, and relied upon for light to medium-load IT-related work? I'm not expecting to drill cross-threaded screws out or something, but I would like a palm-sized drill for quick philips and mini-phillips torx work, and maybe even small-diamter drilling. Couple of choices: I have the previous version of this: http://www.toolstop.co.uk/bosch-gsr-3.6-v-li-mx2drive-professional-screwdriver-2-x-1.3-ah-in-plastic-box-p14078 Cute little machine. Fits in a pocket and is surprisingly strong. The professional version of the green Bosch IXO (Euro Bosch). This has a more advanced gear (my version doesn't) and two batteries while the IXO is all integrated. This is what suits you best though: http://www.toolstop.co.uk/makita-df010dse-7.2v-pencil-drill-driver-2-x-1.0-ah-li-ion-batteries-p6100 I would opt for a professional grade version instead of a cheap B&D or Skil. Get a version with batteries you can remove so you can have one charged at all times. Also get some quality bits. Get some long ones for tricky screws on the motherboard and the likes.
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May 18, 2012 08:31
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Why exactly? It doesn't look revolutionary if I understand the market speak correctly. All has been done before by other brands and several brands offer large battery packs, brushless motors, electronics for constant speed during variable load and circuits that protect battery and motor from overload. Not sure who was first but I'll wager the Festool T 15+3 was among the first. Electronic clutch as well. Downside is the price of course. Another option that I know of that implement many if not all of the features is the Metabo SB 18 LTX Impuls. Been out a few years and it's a beast. Hitachi, Bosch and Makita have or are coming out with brushless models. Think Panasonic have had some for a couple of years. All that said, I'm sure the Milwaukee models are very nice. It's a quality brand and new models are usually good upgrades. Smaller, lighter, stronger and all that.
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May 27, 2012 17:11
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| # ¿ May 22, 2024 12:28 |
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Laser Cow posted:For the Norwegians out there, Maxbo is selling the Fein MultiMaster Select Plus kit for 1990,- which is like a third off or something. I coun't resist, especially as I'm about a third of the way through renovating my entire apartment and I can see parquet in my near future. Ideally you'd get the Top Plus package for 500 NOK more. You get a vacuum attachment, more blades and more sanding options. Easily worth the extra 500. The vacuum rig means you can sand indoors without messing the house up. http://www.k-hservice.no/d4YP6n,d4ZOCT-tRJ6lU2Nl3OCT-tRJ6o5mr6ZM.idium
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Jul 1, 2012 10:36
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