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I used a wagner, but it was one that could only work off 5 gallon pails. It may have been $400 or someting. It worked great, but the coverage wasn't as good as using a roller. The roller forces paint into all the cracks and divots in the wood, and seems to get more paint on. The sprayer left places that weren't covered so great depending on the angle used to spray. It also got overspray on the neighbours porsche, so that part wasn't so fun.
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# ¿ Mar 30, 2011 18:56 |
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# ¿ May 3, 2024 23:18 |
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Iskariot posted:Excuse the double post. New topic. I have the ridgid version, the 12v drill and driver combo. They are great, they hold a charge forever, and charge up quickly. The impact driver is the most useful thing there is. Usually you kill cordless drills putting in screws, as you end up with locked rotor and full current, which then drains the battery. The impact driver keeps spinning. Then you can keep the drill for drilling. I like that they are small and light, I have wussy wrists and don't like holding the huge monstrositys above my head, for drilling or whatever. The 12v drill doesn't have much poop, it has a hard time drilling huge holds through fir, but you should use a corded drill for that anyways.
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# ¿ Apr 11, 2011 23:11 |
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The337th posted:I'm highly biased towards these Sheffield foldback razor knives: http://www.sheffield-tools.com/products/show/12613 Don't buy the harbor freight version of these, they are poo poo. Mine keeps closing, the mechanism slips.
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# ¿ Jan 31, 2012 06:40 |
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IOwnCalculus posted:Oh, I got the Hackzall for Christmas too. It's nice in that unlike the M18 Sawzall, it does work with the compact batteries; everything I've found says the M18 Sawzall requires the full-size M18 batteries, and while I might pick some up eventually, I don't use these tools often enough to justify them now. I used my m18 sawsall that I got in the northern tool set. It would last about 5 minutes or so at full tilt. I was cutting the welds on my trailer fenders. Luckily the set came with two batteries and they don't take that long to recharge. I didn't really feel like digging out my corded sawsall.
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# ¿ Mar 8, 2012 07:13 |
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Ahz posted:I just buy the cheapest multipack of bits I can get. I think for the price of two good bits, I ended up with 100 cheap bits that still lasted me a good 1000+ screws per bit with a Ridgid impact driver. You have to remember to toss the cheap ones faster though, you can ruin screws because your bit slips. The good ones don't slip near as much. I found the ones that look like they have a little insert are the best. The cheap ones that are just cut to a square don't last near as long. In canada, so robertson bits, not phillips. Can't imagine trying to do a deck with phillips.
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# ¿ Sep 12, 2012 23:44 |
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asdf32 posted:Yeah I second this. The sawzall (or milwaukee hackzall variant) is a tool you're likely to carry around, and one you're not necessarily going to run full out for minutes at a time - each cut is a few seconds. I think it's unlikely you'll run it down faster than you can charge the next battery. I have the M18 sawzall. With the big batteries, it only runs for 3 minutes or so. I can cut 4-5 roots or something. Its pretty lame. Of course it came with two of the big ones, but I had one stolen with my drill. You would need 3-4 of the big batteries and two chargers to keep up with it.
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# ¿ Jul 19, 2013 18:14 |
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Before I had my second one stolen, usage was identical for each battery. I doubt the tool is broken, it seems to work fine. Once you make a couple cuts, the batteries will be in overheat mode when you chuck them on the charger anyways, so they take 30 minutes to recharge as they have to cool first. I still use the drat thing though for cutting roots/logs in the ground as I don't want to gently caress up any other saws. The blades are probably too dull, as the rocks and junk get to them even though I chuck them after the 4th cut.
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# ¿ Jul 22, 2013 20:29 |
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I have been doing some plumbing in my house, and decided I should buy pex tools. Anyone have any recommendation? I used sharkbites on the 3 connections I made, but at some point I want to rid the house of the old poly-b pipes that my insurance doesn't like. When I do that, I probably shouldn't use sharkbites on the whole house. Im guessing I need a crimper and a cutter? I don't know much other than I went to home depot and bought 10 ft of pex for $5 instead of all my money for copper. There are distribution blocks, should I get them for the house when I redo the pipes? I have crawlspace access so I can get to all the first story connections, and the upstairs ones were redone when the bathroom was reno'ed.
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# ¿ Oct 24, 2013 21:11 |
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Do the different crimpers require different clamps? Should I just buy the crimpers at home depot so its the same as their pieces? Is this what I want: http://www.amazon.com/WPCATK-1-Crim...x+crimping+tool blindjoe fucked around with this message at 18:42 on Oct 25, 2013 |
# ¿ Oct 25, 2013 18:34 |
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Dead Pressed posted:Well, my harbor freight trailer is coming along. All together but the motorcycle chocks and tie offs. It really hasn't been that much of a hassle but there were a few steps that could have been documented much better in the manual. Is that a pile of expanding foam that the tongue is resting on?
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# ¿ Apr 29, 2014 05:43 |
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I plan on getting the Stihl RMA 370 when I finally get mad at my lovely toro. http://en.stihl.ca/STIHL-Products/STIHL-Lithium-Ion/Lithium-ion-lawn-mowers/22099-1606/RMA-370.aspx Its $400 for the mower only and then you need the battery and charger ($200? something like that). I figure you get what you pay for, so price is not necessarily bad, except when saving for it. I played with one at the home show, and its really light. Only drawback would be small cutting area, but i went from a 19" and 22" and only got a heavier harder to turn mower. They seem to be non-existent used, so thats too bad. The battery also would work with their blower, trimmer, chainsaws, etc.
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# ¿ May 3, 2016 22:34 |
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Are they small like this: https://www.harborfreight.com/5-ton-12-amp-electric-log-splitter-63366.html FYI i have the top one and can split normal size (up to about 16" around) wood with it. Any more, and the pieces are unruly when they fall off. Gnarly stuff won't be fun as its just like a normal sledge but you don't have to lift it over your head. I let my 8 yr old run the controls, its reasonably safe as you need to hands to press the valve and the motor starter. An old version of this: https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/yardworks-65556-4-ton-1-3-4-hp-electric-log-splitter-0603823p.html?loc=plp Ive had it for 5 years, and split 10 trailers worth of wood, good enough for vanity fireplace in the house but if you were doing more id get a bigger one for speed I have had to fill it with fluid a few times, but thats more of a function of loaning it out than a leak.
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# ¿ Jan 4, 2023 03:00 |
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# ¿ May 3, 2024 23:18 |
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I feel that you could probably find those second hand. I passed on a free jointer just like that on the side of the road, no idea what it would have taken to make it good. I have a ridgid jointer i bought for $100 used, and it came with a homemade cart probably worth just the $100 in castors the old guy put on. The key here is the one with the most tools when you die, is still dead, and your kids just want to unload it all so they can carry on with their lives.
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# ¿ Dec 5, 2023 02:21 |