|
Bad Munki posted:Looks great. Also, the pulley is all kinds of Going to second this. I have a 70's Craftsman table saw just like yours but with the cast iron table extensions and I put a link belt on it and never looked back. Totally worth it.
|
#
¿
May 2, 2013 01:31
|
|
and obviously needs to be replaced as you said, but while you're at it, throw a 
|
|
| # ¿ May 22, 2024 09:46 |
|
|
I just got a new (to me) truck and needed a better toolbox for the bed than the plastic one I had so I bought this old as gently caress Knaack box off craigslist for $80. Rust removal, primer, paint has already been done. I painted it a gloss gray, very similar to AbsentMindedWelder's lathe if you have been following his repainting of it. I also tig welded the feet a bit since a couple of the welds were cracked, presumably from it banging around for 50-ish years. Just gotta touch up the paint and get locks for it. The inside is only getting cleaned and not getting painted since it will just get scratched from my tools anyway. Anybody dealt with these old boxes before? I haven't tried fitting any yet, but I have no clue what size padlocks are going to work on this thing. The new ones use Master #5s apparently. I guess I could contact Knaack and see if anyone there knows. I couldn't find a model number for the box anywhere on it, but it measures 48L x 24W x 24H. Pictures of the finished product will come after I get locks for it and toss it in the bed of the truck. Pictures from the Craigslist ad:    
iForge fucked around with this message at 02:26 on Jun 3, 2013 |
|
#
¿
Jun 3, 2013 02:23
|
|
|
WashinMyGoat posted:That is awesome. You can actually buy Knaack Tan paint and decals from a distributor, if you wanted to "restore it." We have some where I work as "touch up" for when boxes get scratched in transit. From their website, it looks like a 2048 Classic. As far as a lock goes, their newer boxes use the "Watchman" series, which allows you to attach a padlock that only keeps the bottom visible, so that the shackle is actually recessed into the box, but this one looks like it predates that technology. Thanks for the info! This one pre-dates the tan paint and it was originally gray. I painted it a slightly darker gray, but it is close enough to original. I have a master 175 so I will check if it fits, thanks! I should be getting my truck back today, it has been in the shop all week getting the A/C fixed.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 6, 2013 13:02
|
|
|
I did a little touch up painting on the box after work, but after I loaded it in my truck, I realized that I have a little more to do. The roller shed quite a bit on the paint but I don't mind much. I don't know how I missed the feet, but it is raining now so that will have to be done another day. I used Rustoleum's "Rusty Metal" primer and their "Gloss Smoke Gray" for the top coat. Lid got 2 coats because the roller shed the most on it so I sanded the piss out of it and re-painted with a foam brush. I stopped by Home Depot and got 2 padlocks for the box, and they fit really well, plus they are supposed to be hard as poo poo to break into. They are the Master Lock Magnum padlocks. Mine are the laminated stainless steel ones, designed to live outdoors in the elements. I wonder how these locks will fare in the wintertime. I may have to figure out a cover to keep them from icing up. All in all it cost me: Box - $80 Paint - $20 Padlocks - $18 Total - $118 I'm pleased with the results, considering these cost around $600 new. Edit: I reckon someone will be curious, this is the truck I just bought. 2002 Dodge Ram 1500 with 69k miles on it. She ain't even broke in yet and looks brand new, even though its an 11 year old truck. 
iForge fucked around with this message at 01:40 on Jun 7, 2013 |
|
#
¿
Jun 7, 2013 01:32
|
|
|
Just saw this ad on craigslist and did a double-take at the title. Can you spot the casual racism?
|
|
#
¿
Jun 12, 2013 02:52
|
|
|
I am an electrician and I used to have a set of these before they were stolen. I never really had any desire to replace them as they are OK for some applications, but 9 times out of 10 you get better results from using separate drills and taps. Maybe if you were drilling and tapping a LOT of holes for a particular project, they could be kinda worth it, but I prefer to keep my drilling and tapping separate.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 15, 2013 00:57
|
|
|
For an upcoming job I need to get a rotary hammer with the SDS-MAX spline chuck on it. Normally I would just rent the drill because I use that size drill too infrequently to justify such an expensive tool, but for this particular job, I am looking at about $500 in rental fees, so I may as well just buy one. I already have SDS-MAX bits to go with the drill. Anyone have experience with the cheaper drills out there? Harbor freight sells a sds-plus drill that has great reviews, but nothing in sds-max. I already put a wanted ad up on craigslist for a used one. Any recommendations for a good brand to get? Not looking to go too much over that $500 mark, so a new Hilti is out of the question.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 17, 2013 04:12
|
|
|
Bosch sells one for $399.99 that should fit the bill just fine, and they have a thing right now that if you spend over $400, you get 20% of your total purchase price in free accessories/bits. Probably gonna do that and buy one cheap bit to put me over the $400 mark.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 25, 2013 22:07
|
|
|
I have that Milwaukee lithium set and have put it through hell and back andthey still work flawlessly. I recommend the Milwaukee set.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 2, 2013 20:14
|
|
|
blindjoe posted:I have the M18 sawzall. With the big batteries, it only runs for 3 minutes or so. I can cut 4-5 roots or something. Its pretty lame. Of course it came with two of the big ones, but I had one stolen with my drill. You would need 3-4 of the big batteries and two chargers to keep up with it. I have the m18 Hackzall and while using it to cut conduit, allthread, uni-strut, etc.., I can keep going just fine with 2 batteries(one compact lithium and one normal lithium) and one charger. The larger sawzall just eats battery power but the hackzall is much more efficient from what I have read. Edit- I have a corded port-a-band that I use when there is house power available, but a lot of times you are moving around too much or its not convenient to run a cord for a couple cuts. It seems to me that the only time I have downtime waiting for batteries to charge is when I forget to charge them and start a project with half-dead poo poo. One thing that people don't always think about is that battery life on a cordless saw is affected a lot by the type of blade you are using and how sharp it is. Choosing the proper blade (finer tooth blade for thin stuff, coarser tooth blade for thicker stuff) for what you are cutting helps a lot. Having a good selection of blades that are fresh and sharp will go a long way to prolonging your battery life. iForge fucked around with this message at 21:04 on Jul 19, 2013 |
|
#
¿
Jul 19, 2013 20:52
|
|
|
Gothmog1065 posted:Is there something I can use to crimp a ring or other terminal on heavier gauge wire? What I'm going to do is install a radio in mine and my wife's car, and I'd like for it to look at least somewhat professional, but most of the crimp tools I've seen for that large of wiring are in the $200+ range. I might try to rent one, but I was seeing if there is another option or something I can try to do those types of crimps without the specialty tool. I used to have a pair of cheap bolt cutters that I notched with a dremel tool for a couple different sizes of crimps and it worked really well until I either left them somewhere or they got stolen. I measured off another pair of crimpers to get the sizes right. An hour or so labor +  was a much better option than expensive crimpers at the time.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 23, 2013 04:56
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:Does anyone here know small engine repair? My string trimmer is giving me fits. There used to be a thread in Automotive Insanity but I can't find it so it may be gone. You could post in cycle asylum like sagebrush said, or check out donyboy77 on youtube, he has 100s of great small engine repair videos.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 24, 2013 23:42
|
|
|
wormil posted:Edit; forgot my question. Is there really much difference between cotton buffing wheels? Looking and they range in price from $6 - 25 each. The cheap ones tend to come apart a lot faster than the higher end ones. I have a couple cheap Ryobi ones because that is all my local HD sells and they sling bits of thread and fabric everywhere every time I use them. They still work, but they are exceedingly messy.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 18, 2013 02:48
|
|
|
 I have seen some with cutouts on both sides for an in and out, but you can always make your own cutout with a dremel or file or something if the ones you buy doesn't. Edit: My google-fu is unmatched http://www.instructables.com/id/Add-in-line-outlets-to-110v-appliance-power-cord/ http://www.beckelectric.com/store/pc/OUTLET-IN-LINE-10AMP-FEMALE-BROWN-2609B-BU-351p407.htm http://www.grandbrass.com/catalog.cfm?category=Outlets&subcategory=All http://www.christmaslightsetc.com/p/In-Line-Outlet-Brown-Polarized-Indoor-Use-Only--19647.htm iForge fucked around with this message at 03:41 on Dec 6, 2013 |
|
#
¿
Dec 6, 2013 03:35
|
|
|
Citristrip will remove that japanning pretty easily. That is what AbsentMindedWelder used on his lathe
|
|
#
¿
Dec 17, 2013 03:23
|
|
|
 I have a pair of these cutters and they are starting to give me trouble. They no longer cut in a straight line and instead will spiral themselves up the pipe. I already changed the cutter wheel and that didn't help any, and all the screws on it are tight. Anyone with experience with them care to chime in?
|
|
#
¿
Apr 21, 2014 03:02
|
|
|
~Coxy posted:Thanks, that was really what I was after. For the sake of curiosity, what makes it one of a kind? Some kind of security key for special screws?
|
|
#
¿
May 13, 2014 02:49
|
|
|
For plaster, I use an angle grinder with a diamond blade on it. Be sure to wear a dust mask and safety glasses, and have a friend with you to hold a shopvac hose next to the cut to minimize dust. You will still make a hell of a cloud of dust, but nothing is faster. If it is a small cut for an outlet box or something, I just use a cheapo drywall jab saw.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 10, 2014 02:18
|
|
|
sharkytm posted:These don't work for poo poo on plaster. When you jab it into the wall, the plaster shatters, and you end up with a huge loving chunk that's broken off... and they can't touch the old plaster-and-lath walls. You'll vibrate the lath too much, and the plaster will fail. I disagree. Take your time on the cut and it won't disturb the plaster and lath. Sure, you end up with some slightly rough edges but its nothing that the box cover doesn't hide. Let the saw do the work like any other cut and you can cut through the plaster and lath or plasterboard with a topcoat with no issue. When your $3 jab saw goes dull, you throw it out and start again with the new one. I've been doing it this way for years, and have yet to damage a wall from the cut. I have, however, had small pieces that were already cracked and loose come off, but nothing that a little 5 minute mix can't handle. When you are working in a finished house that you would like to keep clean, using a jab saw versus a power tool can save you a good bit of time cleaning up dust. My house is plaster and lath, I can make a demonstration video if you would like.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 13, 2014 07:06
|
|
|
melon cat posted:I'm cutting this metal bracket that's on my bathroom mirror: You have been asking this same question since July and the answer is still the same. Use an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel to cut most of the way through the bracket and then bend it out of the way. Have someone hold the mirror while you do this. Take your time.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 16, 2014 06:56
|
|
|
melon cat posted:Yeah... I might've forgotten which DIY forums I did (and didn't) already post this question in. At the very least you should wear safety glasses when doing this. I recommend picking up a full face shield and wearing it whenever you use the grinder. Metal in your eyes is NOT fun, and I know this from personal experience. They numb your eye with drops then dig it out with a needle, and sometimes have to cut into the surface of your eye to get to it. The person holding the mirror while you cut should be wearing safety glasses, gloves, and long sleeves in case the mirror breaks, blood is harder to clean up than broken glass. This woman is delighted to be protecting her eyes, you will be too. 
|
|
#
¿
Sep 17, 2014 06:03
|
|
|
King of Gulps posted:From that picture, an angle grinder seems like massive overkill? Like it would be incredibly easy to make things far worse, especially if the OP hasn't quite developed a deft touch. I see no problem with a Dremel or even a hacksaw blade to score the metal until it can be bent or broken. That said, if I was to use a grinder, I would use a standard grinding wheel and take material off of the outside of the corner of the bracket until it could be bent out of the way, rather than trying to slot it. Or just slide a pry bar behind the bracket and yank it out of the wall. He mentioned before that he wants an angle grinder anyway, and I am trying to save him from buying a dremel for one job and then buying a grinder anyway.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 19, 2014 02:54
|
|
|
I use my impact driver fairly often for running spade bits through wood. Its a little slower than my cordless drill but it is more compact and fits in places the drill doesn't.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 30, 2014 06:41
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:Ah yeah, that'd be schedule 40 or 80 PVC conduit. I have 20' of schedule 80 in my workshop waiting to go into the trench. It's fine (good, even) for burial because it's not exposed to UV and not in danger of casual contact, but it's not fine for exposed. My local inspector actually required me to use metal for the ends of the trench run, so the PVC isn't exposed whatsoever; his claimed reason was a weedwhacker could cut through embrittled PVC and electrocute someone. The aluminum is IMC and isn't stocked at HDs around here atleast. Call around electrical supply houses. They may even have to order it for you but its a lot easier to work with than RMC. Unless you are well practiced at bending, order more than you think you need, you will mess up bends as you learn.
|
|
#
¿
Sep 22, 2016 02:40
|
|
|
A ILL BREAKFAST posted:Can I get some opinions on the Hilti TE 7-C? I have a TE-80 but it's a bit (a lot) overkill for chipping up bathroom tile, which would basically be the sole purpose of the 7-C. Maybe, maybe some very light duty core drilling. 1-1/8" holes or smaller. Ive owned one for about 3 years. Never removed tile with it and I think the largest hole ive drilled with it was 1", but its been a great drill. Bought a sds-plus jacobs chuck adapter for using twist drills and it has always worked great.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 12, 2016 18:09
|
|
|
ionn posted:Is it wise to use regular quick-connect hose fittings for compressed air for my welding gas? You are fine using it for air/argon/any inert gas. Never use them for oxygen/acetylene or propane though, you have to buy special ones for fuel gases that have fuel rated gaskets in them.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 5, 2017 03:24
|
|
|
Not really a tool, but whatever. Im getting a free safe and am trying to estimate the weight. Anyone have any ideas? I have the equipment to move it, am just worried its too heavy for where I want to put it. 
|
|
#
¿
Oct 13, 2017 14:25
|
|
|
xwing posted:You're probably fine if it's a concrete slab. It's no more than a few linebackers players standing close. None of the pictures ive been sent have safe model or UL on them, just the relocking mechanism. It would be going on a wood framed floor in a corner where the floor is strongest after I weigh it and am comfortable with it. Ill get a chance to see it in person early next week
|
|
#
¿
Oct 13, 2017 15:39
|
|
|
Zahgaegun posted:Bring along a balance scale and friends who weigh 100, 200, 400, and 800 pounds. You should be able to accurately estimate anything up to 1500 lbs. I have a digital scale that will do up to 2500lbs so Im good on that front.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 13, 2017 16:00
|
|
|
Tres Burritos posted:Tell your wife I said hi. Big is beautiful ok?
|
|
#
¿
Oct 14, 2017 19:48
|
|
|
Hackjack posted:Need to buy a hard hat for work so I don't have to keep borrowing other people's. Price doesn't matter. The MSA brand ones are the most comfortable and best looking IMO. Full brim is a pain if you work in tight quarters a lot, so just stick with the standard front brim. Also, OSHA requires your employer to provide and pay for your PPE, so if your job falls under OSHAs jurisdiction, make the boss buy it. iForge fucked around with this message at 12:09 on Oct 17, 2017 |
|
#
¿
Oct 17, 2017 12:06
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:If you do, don't stick it in the wall socket. The guts of my chinese domestic market fluke meter that I bought after AvE tore it down is indistinguishable in design and quality to my genuine fluke 87. Its a few ohms off on the high end of the scale, but not too far off. I have no issues or fears using it on 480v equipment. Same process would be used for any safety device, inspect and test before use.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 20, 2017 03:52
|
|
|
My milwaukee 18v set is probably 5 years old with almost daily use and the batteries hold a charge like new. Ymmv
|
|
#
¿
Oct 26, 2017 20:32
|
|
|
A proper rotary hammer hits hard enough that the holes drill fast and dont really end up oblong. Your consumer grade "hammer drill" drills much slower, giving time for the bit to walk, and the flutes to erode and enlarge the sides of the hole
|
|
#
¿
Dec 25, 2017 23:38
|
|
|
kid sinister posted:Rotary hammer vs. rebar: who would win? They sell special rebar cutting bits. Drill till you hit rebar, swap bits, drill till you get through rebar, swap back!
|
|
#
¿
Dec 26, 2017 03:25
|
|
|
keep it down up there! posted:Can anyone recommend a good place to order replacement parts for a Ridgid r4511 Table Saw? I'd be ordering to Canada. https://www.ereplacementparts.com/ridgid-table-saw-parts-c-7929_8171.html
|
|
#
¿
Jun 1, 2018 03:44
|
|
|
Find a used machinery dealer and get an older but high quality drill press for less than a brand new junky one.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 29, 2018 20:02
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:
You'd probably need to bribe a friend with a bigger vehicle to get a proper drill press home unless. Just an example for you, I bought my current drill press for $150 at a used machinery place in southern New Jersey. It has a #2MT spindle with a 5/8" chuck in it, so I can pull the chuck out and use larger taper shank drills in it when needed:  
|
|
#
¿
Dec 30, 2018 14:28
|
|
|
 Picked up my 2000 4x4 v6 back in Octoberish, $300, driveable but needs a clutch and a couple leaks fixed. Slated to be a spare truck/beater/hunting truck so I can keep my Colorado nice. 
|
|
#
¿
Jan 24, 2019 02:46
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ May 22, 2024 09:46 |
|
|
stuxracer posted:Not a tool question but tool organization. I’m looking for very short trays for a tool chest. Like a lot of he drawers are maybe 1.5 inch high and I want a tray to put loose drill bits and random things like that. Any recommendations? Look at kitchen drawer orgainzers, I use these ones though I bought them locally for half that price.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 19, 2019 03:05
|
|