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ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

I really like the jaws on my Knipex Cobolt mini bolt cutters. Excellent heat treat and so far no dents or chips.

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ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

FISHMANPET posted:

Talk me into our out of buying a cheap or expensive angle grinder.

I don't really have any metal work needs, but I'm probably more interested in using it with wire brushes.


Relevant reddit comment.

someone on reddit posted:

Hey OP not sure if you have experience with wire brushes but here goes! Let me learn you a thing or two (hopefully)

1) first just noting that yes indeed you put the wire brush on the wrong way. That hex nut should be facing inwards not outwards, this is probably why you have more difficulty removing it.

2) speed, wire brushes are pains in the butt to use. Especially on 4-1/2" grinders. The speed is waaay too fast. This will likely cause fast wire breakage and more difficulty to control. Generally with wire brushes the optimal RPM is about half to 2/3 of the max speed listed on the hub of the brush. This will give you the best removal to life ratio.

3) PPE. For the love of all that is Holy, please wear PPE when using the bad boys, you do not want one of the needle wires going in your arm or eye (this is really painful). Eye protection and face shield if possible. Long sleeves/pants and leather gloves. Even recommend good puncture protection shoes as the wires can get stuck in your soles.

Source: I work R&D for a wire brush company.

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

Next week I am buying this floor standing drill press, used, from some rando. I will have the chance to put a dial indicator on it before taking it home.

What should my go/no-go limits be for runout on a $400 used drill press?

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

I, too, am looking for comfortable workwear for hot weather (anything over 60 F tbh). This is for welding, so it must have thick fabric and full coverage, long sleeves, etc. And no fans allowed (blows away the shielding gas).

Unfortunately, I think welding is just always gonna be hot and sweaty.

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

BIG-DICK-BUTT-gently caress posted:

Why tf is the M12 die or right-angle grinder so drat expensive? Brushless motor, electronic control board, gearset = $189 tool only???

Also, of the two which would you get, the right-angle grinder right? The DeWalt 20v is almost the same price but the in-line design seems a little less useful and it's bulky.



I bought the M18 straight die grinder. It is big and only has one speed. I liked it so much, I also bought the M12 right angle die grinder. I really like the way the variable speed works on the M12 (variable speed trigger & 4 way switch to cap the max rpm). The M12 has finesse that the M18 definitely does not have.

(Both are good. Just get both.)

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

Have you ever done some shaping or grinding that was a little too big for the Dremel, but you went ahead and it kinda worked, but not very well? You need a die grinder (or two).

Electric die grinders are bigger and heavier than a Dremel, but they can be more precise and more delicate for certain tasks. They are way less likely to bog down, so you can push them harder and have more control while doing it. That's the key thing, they have the power to be smooth.

My favorite tools:
Lennox Metal Max diamond-coated blades: 1.5" and 2". If you have the M18 die grinder, also get the 3". They seem to last well enough, and they won't explode like abrasive discs. Consider that these die grinders don't have guards.

2" Roloc abrasive pads. The die grinder will spin 2" scotchbrite fast enough to throw sparks. Really nice for surface prep.

Carbide burrs (rotary files) are nice for shaping metal, although they create the most vicious chips of any metal cutting tool.

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

Guyver posted:

Would it be worth getting a security bit and fiddling with it?

No, because when big lithium batteries fail, they burn down your house.

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

Ha ha, Guyver needs to edit his post on the prev page to say it's been answered, or else we're going to see alarmed replies all week.

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

starting to lose track of which posters are in on the joke and which are not

anyway, that's not a picture of an electric lawn mower


Holy poo poo, it IS a prototype zero-turn electric lawn mower!

ryanrs fucked around with this message at 19:01 on Oct 20, 2022

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

normally I would guess "after they start selling them" but I am clearly not in tune with the latest industry trends

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

I'm building a 300W buck converter so I can power 12V car stuff off my M18 chainsaw battery. Things like a 50W ham radio, air compressor, small inverter, etc.

Output will be 14V @ 20A.

But I have a ton of projects going on, and this is a low priority. Probably something for 2023.

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

Rakes are very amenable to laser cutting. You could totally order a Ti6Al4V laser-cut rake from sendcutsend.

I dunno about padauk, how do you feel about certified renewable bamboo?

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

withak posted:

You can't dispose of children's hands/arms in a drain.

Rufio posted:

Coming soon: M18 wood chipper

That reminds me, Milwaukee is coming out with a new M18 Pruning Chainsaw soon. Presumably this will be a step up from their current M12 pruning saw.

The timing is perfect, because I've been wanting to mount a small chainsaw on the front bumper of my van (not full time, just for special occasions). When I go camping early in the season, there are often many, many small trees fallen across the road from winter storms. On those roads, my forward progress, in miles per hour, is dominated by the time to unpack, use, and repack my full-size M18 chainsaw. But with this pruning saw mounted in a scabbard on my bumper, I can just jump out of the van and start severing limbs immediately.

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011



10+ per mile

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

Once upon a time another goon recommended this:

wesleywillis posted:

Don't know what your budget is, but I can highly recommend this one from Lowes.
https://www.lowes.ca/product/drill-presses/porter-cable-15-in-floor-12-speed-drill-press-78742

Thats Canadian dollars though, so it would be less in your freedom bucks.

I found one on craigslist for $360, and it is a good drill press. The table uses machinist t-blocks to clamp stuff, which is not very convenient if you don't have a set of blocks, studs, etc.

e: $509 at US Lowes

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

Cheap lovely brushes are amazing at sweeping chips off my drill press. They are great for that.

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

Hexigrammus posted:

Anyone have experience with arborist's winches? I've been renting a 3 ton Tirfor wire puller to take down dead snags but rental costs are getting to the point I might be better off buying than renting. No Tirfors on the second hand market and new are a bit too pricey for my taste.

The MorePower Puller is half the price and has a lot of fans.

The American Power Puller has fans as well but there are multiple complaints about not being able to source parts when needed.

There's lots of sub-$100 ratchet winches at the hardware stores and Princess Auto (Harbour Freight) but I had one come apart last fall while trying to work a manlift out of a hole so I'm not feeling a lot of love for them atm. I'd like to not have to worry about winch shrapnel as well as broken tree tops.

Cheap ratchet winches break easily. I've cracked a big one pulling with one arm, no cheater. They're garbage.

I use the Wyeth-Scott puller to pull my Sienna minivan out of ditches while offroading. Note that the 3 ton rating is WITH a 2:1 pulley, so it is not as strong as the $1,000 puller you linked (also weighs half as much).

That said, the Wyeth-Scott is a very strong, heavy duty puller. I like mine. The AmSteel synthetic rope is EXTREMELY WORTH IT.

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

Get like 10 different boxes, different colors and styles, and leave them everywhere.

(this is what I do at work)

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

Hand-held two-stroke engines are going to seem so loving wild to future generations.

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

- And you had to wear kevlar chaps in case the machines turned on you and attacked?

- Sort of, yeah. But the chainsaws didn't have AI, only a primitive mechanical thirst for human blood.

- OK grandpa, time for your jello.

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

My brushless Milwaukee sure does stall if the chain binds. If the chain stops, the motor gives up instantly.

And of course you pull the battery out before unjamming it.

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

Lot of Scrap Carbide Inserts

J-B Weld 8281 Professional Size Steel Reinforced Epoxy Twin Pack

Don't forget to post pics, OP.

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

Does anyone make a fast cordless drill? I want 4-6,000 RPM. Why doesn't Milwaukee, say, make a small, fast M12 drill? It's like they cannot, will not release a drill that can't sink 3" deck screws.

This is to drill pilot holes in steel.

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

~Coxy posted:

Metabo BE 18 is 4000 rpm no-load speed.
Are they meant to be compatible with HiKoki/Hitachi? If so then at least you're not in some truly esoteric ecosystem.

Great suggestion, thanks!

But $440 for the drill + small battery + charger is a lot. I am not quite angry enough with Milwaukee to invest that much in another battery ecosystem...yet.

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

Drill Press Wheels

This bastard weighs 150 lbs, so it is a real pain in the rear end to move. I want to add a pair of wheels so that it can be tipped back and rolled around. The idea is that when upright, the wheels won't be touching the ground. I don't want to add any wobble.

Putting the wheels in front would be a lot more convenient for backing it up against a wall, but I think I will put them in the back where I'm less likely to trip over them.

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

Casters will wobble. It's very top-heavy.

Maybe it's not 150 lbs and that's just shipping weight or something? I haven't actually weighed my drill press. It's heavy enough that I can't just pick it up or easily drag it around. But grabbing the top and leaning it onto the floor, or lifting it back upright is not hard. I don't think it's a huge safety hazard (like you're not going to get pinned under the machine or anything).

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

Yeah, I've seen similar products on Amazon for $30-40 for a 4-pack. I'm not sure if the Rockler ones are better, or just more expensive. It looks like they might have come from the same factory.

Hmm.

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

The wheels turn the drill press into a hand cart.

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

But if I buy a hand truck I don't have an excuse to build this thing.

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

It's cast iron, so no welding allowed. I'm going to make a plate to sandwich between the drill press base and the column flange.

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

Aha! A tool I need that I didn't know existed. (Not even a theoretical need, but something I'm planning to do next week!)

This is how aircraft builders countersink rivets with precise centering and depth: Micro-stop and countersink.

This is for 120 degree countersinks, so the bit is not strongly self-centering (not very pointy).

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

Evapo Rust FAQ posted:

How does Evapo-Rust work?
Unlike other rust removers that use some type of acid to remove rust, Evapo-Rust works without acid. It will not attack the base metal, and it is safe to use. Evapo-Rust works through selective chelation. This is a process in which a large synthetic molecule forms a bond with metals and holds them in solution. Most chelating agents bind many different metals. The active ingredient in Evapo-Rust bonds to exclusively to iron. It will remove iron from iron oxide but is too weak to remove iron from steel where the iron is held much more strongly. Once the chelating agent has removed the iron, a sulfur bearing organic molecule pulls the iron away from the chelator and forms a ferric sulfate complex which remains water soluble. This frees the chelating agent to remove more iron from rust.

This reminds me of the way aqua regia dissolves gold.

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

brugroffil posted:

I have a 1.5 ton powerzone floor jack. It will hold pressure if I manually lift up the saddle, but the pumping piston stopped extending so I can't actually pump it to lift anything. Is this repairable or do I just need to get a new one?

The pumping piston is sticky, and the spring is not enough to overcome the grime and dirt. It is very easy to fix, just 2 screws on mine. The pistons just pop out by pulling, and you can clean it all up with some paper towels and brake cleaner. This is assuming they're just dirty. There could also be rust or damaged o-rings, so check for that. On mine, I did not need to top off the fluid.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IvFUREOoe6U

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

Hmm, my homemade power supply seems capable of insta-killing Milwaukee M18 6.0 and 8.0 batteries, leaving them with 1 blinking red bar. My CP 3.0 works fine. My power supply is drawing power from the battery, not charging it.

I'm pretty sure I'm not over-discharging the cells. It seems more related to moderate-current draw. I was pulling about 100 W at 75% SoC when it killed my 8.0 battery.

Plugging the blinking battery into a charger briefly (only 1-2 seconds) fixes it. I'm quite sure that I'm not physically damaging the cells, since I'm only pulling 5 A or so, and not running the batteries flat.

I know Milwaukee sells 'dumb' M18 tools that only connect to the raw battery +/- and not the communication lines. But they tend to be low-power tools like LED flashlights.

One possible theory is that the battery is mad that I'm drawing moderate current without talking to its serial port and asking permission? Lol.

e: 8.0 battery does not get mad when discharged at 20 W.
8.0 discharged all the way to 3.10 V/cell (empty threshold according to onboard BMS, 1 blinking bar).

Now I'm discharging my 6.0 at 40 W and it's happy so far.

I know my 12.0 chainsaw battery gives no fucks because I've paralleled it with a dead car battery and it didn't seem to mind (with a 40 A fuse for safety). But that battery is a few years old. The 8 and 6 that are giving me grief are newer, and maybe have newer guts?

I'm pretty annoyed the M18 comm protocol hasn't been reverse engineered yet. It's 2000 baud serial with no encryption, how hard can it be? The batteries have a TI BQ76925 battery monitor controlled by a MSP430 microcontroller. Teardown with partial schematics. The M18 battery boards seem like a TI reference design with minimal changes.

Just discharged the 8.0 at 75W, ramping up to 200 W. This is enough power for my use case (50W VHF ham radios draw 100-200W). The battery threw an error at 220 W, at very roughly 50% SoC. I should take one of my batteries apart to see if it is sensing current or just cell voltage. The M18 battery LEDs seem to be based on cell voltage, not charge integration.

latest:
The 6.0 and 8.0 batteries throw an error for loads greater than about 220W or 11A. It's probably based on current, not power. Above this, and the battery quickly throws an error (couple seconds or less delay). The BMS can't electronically disconnect the battery, so these errors are advisory only.

Battery error is based on current, with a trip point of 11-12 A. My power supply doesn't have precision current metering on the input, so I don't have precise numbers.

I wonder if this 11 A trip was introduced to new batteries JUST because people where converting Power Wheels to use M18s without any over-discharge protection and killing the batteries? So flip on the blinking light if there's high power draw without serial comms and scare the owner from trashing their $200 battery.


Internal cell specs for every M18 battery:

ryanrs fucked around with this message at 04:51 on Aug 30, 2023

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

casque posted:

My Milwaukee M18 charger gave up the ghost. Where's the best place to get a deal on a new charger + battery?

If you just want a charger, buy an open-box genuine charger off ebay for $20-30. People buy the tool 'kits' to get the extra battery, but don't want the extra charger. If you want a new battery too, buy a kit with a tool.


More M18 battery communication reverse engineering. The comm protocol is extremely simple, but nobody has bothered to reverse engineer the details yet. This guy is a lot closer.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OGzeGUDAtac

ryanrs fucked around with this message at 18:46 on Sep 15, 2023

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

Wiha Torquevario screwdrivers are good.

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

but I don't need to justify snap ring pliers, I need to justify this new table saw

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

Super lube tastes better. I wouldn’t use red auto grease in a potable water supply.

But red tacky is probably a better grease if you’re not going to eat it.

ryanrs fucked around with this message at 02:09 on Feb 8, 2024

ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

Yeah it’ll dissolve latex condoms, and some other rubbers like EPDM and SBR.

https://www.super-lube.com/Content/...0Elastomers.pdf

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ryanrs
Jul 12, 2011

When the #1 joke about your occupation is the number of amputations, then yeah some additional regulations are probably in order.

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