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Don't bother with the ultra-budget batter powered drills if you want to use it for more than one project. I've gone through 4 budget drills over the past 4 years and I decided to bite the bullet and buy a Rigid combo pack which included a drill/driver and an impact driver for $200. After using this and my neighbor's DeWalt, it's night and day from the cheap Black and Decker, Campbell Hausfeld, or Kawasaki junk I used before.
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Mar 4, 2011 16:28
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| # ¿ May 2, 2024 02:44 |
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My biggest issue with my Bosch 12" dual bevel sliding mitre saw isn't really the cost of blades, as I knew they would be pricier. It's the simple size of the thing. I not only need a massive amount of workbench width to store it, but I need at least a 3' depth bench to give it room to slide back as well. It's huge. I think I'll sell it when I'm done my reno and buy a sliding 10" or smaller instead.
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Jun 17, 2011 15:46
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Any good recommendations on a value priced corded circular saw? Nothing in the ryobi range, but closer to $100 vs. $150+.
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Jul 3, 2011 02:41
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I read up on painting a good cut-in line with a quality brush and never could get a straight edge. What I did do was buy one of those brush paint pads with rollers and it worked like a dream and gave me nice crisp easy lines. The trick was to never dip the pad in paint. I would sop a loaded brush and brush the paint on to the pad. Once I got the hang of loading the pad with paint via brush, it went pretty quick where I could cut in a 16 foot ceiling/wall edge on one stroke and I kept the rollers clean which is critical to not loving things up. The only downside to the pad/roller combo was that the paint line was about 1/16 to 1/8 from the edge so the corner was not fully painted. I didn't care as I still had a straight line. This is the one I used: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...C2DK7TGB2X755YC
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Oct 7, 2011 18:38
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Everything there looks good for starter tools except the ratcheting screwdriver and the drill. The screwdriver will fall apart and lose its ratcheting action in no time and the drill is filled with lovely plastic internals that will shatter the moment you drop it once. Not to mention the drill is poo poo and you always want minimum two batteries. If you want cheap, Costco has some half-decent Kawasaki or whatever drills for $50 and you can always buy cheap bits when they're on sale at harbour freight or wherever. I would still recommend buying a real name brand drill like Dewalt, rigid, or makita to go on sale, sometimes you can get a drill/driver and an impact in a combo kit for as low as $125 if you find the right clearance. For the extra price you will feel a lot less frustration in overall use. I think I went through 3 lovely $50 drills including a black and decker before i got fed up and bought something that works right. I always find a good variety of pliers to be useful so yeah get those.
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Nov 16, 2011 16:35
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While I like the convenience of a slider, sawdust / drywall dust or other junk just seem to gunk them up over time and render them useless. I always end up going back to my tried and true (and cheaper) flip-out model.
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Dec 13, 2011 19:44
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LordOfThePants posted:Any suggestions for good impact driver bits? I don't own one and neither does my Dad, but his birthday is coming up so I thought it'd be a good opportunity to buy him one (that I could then borrow). I just buy the cheapest multipack of bits I can get. I think for the price of two good bits, I ended up with 100 cheap bits that still lasted me a good 1000+ screws per bit with a Ridgid impact driver.
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Sep 12, 2012 14:37
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I would recommend another manual gun, but one of the good contractor ones. A well designed caulk gun will give you a nice full grip with proper finger notches, real leverage on the trigger for fine and hard pressure work. I used to use a cheap $3 china caulk gun and it gave me hand cramps, when I switched to a much nicer model with built-in cutter and poking pin, I found caulking a lot less onerous.
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Apr 24, 2013 23:41
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A perk to the Uponor style vs the crimp style is that you don't have to use the tool "in place". You can use the tool then you have a couple seconds to slide the fittings into place while the plastic contracts. With crimpers, you have to crimp in place which can get awkward in tight spaces where you need space and leverage.
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Oct 25, 2013 04:23
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If doing more than 1000 screws, I would just buy a good cheap drywall screw gun, use it for the job and then sell it. I think I paid maybe $30 in lost value vs. new when I sold mine and it saved me a crapload of hassle when driving about 2000 screws throughout my basement. The auto-stop ratcheting action is fantastic which is something you don't get when you use the depth-set bits for regular drills/drivers.
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Apr 19, 2014 18:06
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powderific posted:Are there any meaningful differences between caulk guns? We just bought a new house and there's lots and lots of caulking that needs to be done. Bathtub, sink, many of the exterior windows, hairline cracks in a cement pad in the back, etc. lovely guns have short grips without proper finger indentations. I have two, one $4 job with a short handle and mild indentations, and a $11 contractor one and the longer grip with proper finger grip makes ALL the difference in the world when you spend a whole day caulking trim work.
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Jul 23, 2014 17:56
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