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If I were only going to use it in a shop with outlets handy I would get a corded but if you're going to be outside (or other areas where you would need an extension cord) and only own one saw, I would get a cordless. I have a home duty 18v Porter Cable and I wouldn't recommend it except for basic home chores but it's among the best purchases I've ever made. It chews through wall studs and nails like nothing. Definitely get a 2nd battery and plenty extra blades.
wormil fucked around with this message at 00:33 on Apr 28, 2011 |
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Apr 28, 2011 00:31
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GEMorris posted:I know what you said, its just that you are wrong. Ripping on a RAS is easier than crosscutting 10' boards on a table saw. This X100. RAS are beasts at ripping and excellent at crosscutting. They will also dado or rabbet like a mother. Burn me but I believe it comes down to knowing and being educated on your tools... there is a place for a RAS, a TS, a jointer, bandsaw, and a planer; the fact that many people find ways to use these tools to replace other tools is more about not having the space, money, or education than about a specific deficiency. If I had a large enough shop, I would own them all, as I was trained on them all.
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Jun 9, 2011 08:15
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Iskariot posted:Get a 10". You rarely need a 12". Mmmmm, I started with an 8.5", moved to a 10" and often wished I'd had a 12. I'd get a 12 and be done with it.
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Jun 15, 2011 08:35
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Jeez, after looking at the price difference between a 10 and 12, you probably should just buy a 10. I guess it's been a while since I priced them. My 10 doesn't slide so that alone would probably take care of many situations where I had wished for a 12.
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Jun 15, 2011 22:52
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Never used a chainsaw mill but just from watching the video it looks slow and tedious. Do you have any sawmills nearby that would cut it up for you? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HjNa7HbzLVA
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Oct 6, 2011 20:29
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SeptimalMinor posted:But after some more research I discovered that Rockwell doesn't make bandsaws any more, which is probably why it is so cheap. It's cheap because it's Rockwell branded and made overseas like all other cheap tools. I wouldn't recommend buying a small bandsaw unless you know you need one, it's a terrible first tool for woodworking. If you really want a bandsaw then buy a 14" minimum. Other good saw choices would be circular saw, track saw, 10" contractor saw. GD_American posted:I just fell in love with Kreg screws. I want to throw every Phillips bit and screw in the ocean now. I've been on that bandwagon for years now.
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Nov 2, 2011 20:56
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SeptimalMinor posted:Wormil: The main reason I wanted the bandsaw was to do more intricate things. I've been wanting to make something like this for years but never had the means. Hmmm, I've never made anything like that but I suspect you would be better served with a good router & table and probably lathe than a band saw. The only thing on there I would cut with a band saw would be the large circles for the gears but you'd need to cut the actual gears with either a router, drill or tablesaw. The chutes could be cut on a band saw but you'd still need a router unless you cut the grooves by hand. SeptimalMinor posted:I'm also looking for recommendations on a nice table saw. I have a Delta Contractor Saw w/ 36" extension and have never regretted buying it. Delta, Jet and Powermatic are probably the most popular, followed by Grizzly. I've heard good things about Rigid. The most important thing about a saw is the fence. A great fence on a crappy saw is better than a crappy fence on a great saw. GD_American posted:My father has an old Craftsman 12" he's been making noises about upgrading from. What would be a good, affordable (ie mid-range) 14" bandsaw for him to look at? I haven't shopped big tools in over a decade. GEMorris is the bandsaw guy in DIY and if he's lurking he can make a specific recommendation. Grizzly is a good affordable brand, made overseas but to very good standards. I've never owned one but reportedly they are quality tools if perhaps slightly lacking in fit and finish. Other than that, I can only point you to the top brands, Delta, Jet, Powermatic, etc. Powermatics were overly expensive the last time I was big tool shopping. I don't have room for a bandsaw but if I did, I would want one big enough for resawing.
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Nov 3, 2011 00:11
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SolidElectronics posted:Is that any different from Robertson?
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Nov 3, 2011 09:10
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kafkasgoldfish posted:The flower pot funnel is the only thing that would benefit from having a lathe. Likewise, Matthias Wandel uses a bandsaw to cut gears in his videos. Yeah, looks like he drills out the gear then makes straight cuts with the bandsaw which seems like more work than just cutting them with a modified box joint jig using either a router or tablesaw. The funnel is what I had in mind for the lathe. I suppose you could do it in pieces and glue it up though I'm not really sure how, it isn't something I've ever thought about doing. kafkasgoldfish posted:I would see a bandsaw being important ... if he doesn't own a table saw. I love bandsaws, they are almost as addicting as lathes but a tablesaw is just more versatile. And you can do cove cuts on a tablesaw eliminating the router. kafkasgoldfish posted:My favorite thing about my big saw is the induction motor and belt driven blade. It's quiet and cuts smoooooooth. Definitely. That's why people interested in woodworking should save up and buy either a contractor (sometimes called a hybrid) or cabinet saw. Jobsite saws are loud, underpowered and imprecise for woodworking though they are fine for carpentry. I keep meaning to buy a link belt for mine because I've read time and again that they run smoother but I just never get around to it. It's already pretty smooth.
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Nov 4, 2011 05:59
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Cheap ratcheting screwdrivers are worse than cheap jig saws which is probably where the hate comes from but I have a couple nice ones that I love. One I found on the side of the road and it's a beast. The logos are all beaten off it but I think it's a Mac. Unfortunately it only has one double sided bit, with a straight and #2 Philips. My favorite that I lost had a L shaped handle which allowed a lot of leverage and was perfect for working on PCs.
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Nov 18, 2011 01:01
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bhukBC posted:Saw this browsing Sears. Future of ratchets? I've seen those. One of those obvious ideas that you wonder why it hasn't been around longer.
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Nov 27, 2011 07:37
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Mr_Ruckus posted:I was looking at this or something like it: http://www.lowes.com/pd_241413-70-382_0__?productId=3275809&Ntt=orbit+sander&pl=1¤tURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Dorbit%2Bsander&facetInfo= I have an older (7-8 years) version of this and my only complaint is that the dust catcher was just a foam tube on a plastic sleeve and used to vibrate off until I put a screw through it. Eventually I put on a dust bag from another PC tool. But the dust catcher in the picture looks nothing like mine so hopefully they fixed that problem. I did have to replace the sanding pad after my wife tried to sand the floor with it (probably overheated it) but the pad was inexpensive and easy to find. It's the only ROS I've used so I can't compare it but I haven't felt any inclination to shop for a different one.
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Feb 6, 2012 06:13
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I don't know what I'm doing wrong but I've never been able to raise a bur on a scraper, I've tried screwdrivers and other things but nada.
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Feb 6, 2012 21:01
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Sometimes it seems the more I sand, the more defects I uncover and need to sand out.
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Feb 10, 2012 21:31
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gwrtheyrn posted:What type of tool would be best for this task? Best would be a tablesaw. Does the slot run down both sides or just one?
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May 12, 2012 07:31
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gwrtheyrn posted:Slot goes on both sides. Would there be a more optimal non-fixed tool? I mean I'd love to be able to have things like a tablesaw, bandsaw, etc, but as it is I really do need something that I can store away much like a dremel. Your best bet would probably be a hand saw. Clamp the pipe vertically or at a 45 degree angle and cut straight down. Alternately, you could build a jig and use a router.
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May 12, 2012 08:16
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Xerox and Canon techs use small rechargable drivers all the time but I never paid attention to what brands.
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May 14, 2012 23:22
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So last night I was contemplating building a drill press for my Dremel to get more use from it and then 30 minutes later an add on Craigslist popped up on my phone for a Dremel drill press. Odd coincidence so I emailed the guy and we arranged to meet today. At the last minute he tells me has more stuff and will sell it all for $45. Here is what I came away with: From left to right, a Sears Dremel drill press, magnetic base for a dial indicator, and a plunge mechanism from a router.  A Dremel router table.  Left to right: A corner chisel, some handles to who knows what, and the round thing actually goes with the router plunger.  Apparently a tenant left all this stuff behind and he's just selling it. He also has a scroll saw and will email pics and a price later. Incidentally, here is the home built Dremel press, pretty neat. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EFTq9itY2vI
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May 25, 2012 04:51
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I've been watching craigslist for a drill press and it's ridiculous how many are posted and how fast they sell. They go in hours.
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Jun 8, 2012 08:04
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Sometimes it's the little things that make all the difference... I bought a set of Harbor Freight 12" files to use in my woodworking shop. Not only are they larger than my previous files but they cut better, faster and the size makes them easier to use. At $6.32 w/ a 20% off coupon, I'm going to buy another set: one for wood, one for metal.
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Jun 20, 2012 04:40
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Hed posted:What does variable speed control buy you on an orbital sander? I was going to buy one for some basic woodworking (refinishing furniture) next weekend and the price delta for variable speed is $15, but I don't know what you can do extra with varying speed. Go for the variable speed if the difference is only $15. I don't have it but there are times when I want less aggressive sanding like with thin veneers.
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Aug 27, 2012 03:34
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dwoloz posted:I'm looking to buy end cut pliers/nippers that can cut flush to the surface (specifically for cutting spokes that stick out too far into a bicycle rim). Having an anvil style cutter and a removable fulcrum bolt would be a plus. Any recommendations? http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Fretting_supplies/Pullers,_nippers,_sizing/Fret_Cutter.html or http://www.lmii.com/CartTwo/thirdproducts.asp?CategoryName=Fretting&NameProdHeader=End+or+Fret+Cutters Although if anyone knows of a less expensive version, I'd be interested too.
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Aug 28, 2012 10:12
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sky shark posted:Anyone have decent plans for a miter saw station? Haven't built it but I'm partial to Woodsmith's. http://www.woodsmithshop.com/download/311/mitersawstation.pdf This one is similar but on a mobile base: http://mikefromwinton.com/mtrsaw.html
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Aug 30, 2012 08:50
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I saw this orange thing on Youtube and want one. The guy just called it a parallelogram but my google-fu is failing me, where can I buy one? I suppose I could make one from Popsicle sticks or something but it looks like it would be cheap. Semi-related question, I've been thinking of building a new router table and my research led me to the Woodrat, Router Boss, and horizontal routers. Anyone here ever use any of these alternatives to traditional tables? http://youtu.be/AemWj6tq79g
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Sep 2, 2012 08:53
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dwoloz posted:This is straying into woodworking conversation but what do you reckon is the best joinery method in terms of strength to "time to create" ratio? Depends really, locking miters are quick with a special router bits or simple enough on a tablesaw and strong enough for drawers. Box joints are strong and relatively quick with a dedicated router bit, a little more time on a saw or router table with a jig. Last year I made a butt jointed cabinet with screws and liquid nails glue. The cabinet wasn't used so I decided to disasemble it and reuse the plywood. I thought the butt joints would just snap but I couldn't break them without splintering the wood so I ended up cutting them apart, made me a believer in construction adhesive. Dovetails look really nice but I don't believe they are stronger than glued box joints. The drawers in my shop are just screwed rabbets and after a dozen years are still rock solid. Also, never thought to look in the Woodrat store for that parallelogram. Now I feel stupid.
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Sep 2, 2012 21:27
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I'm still brainstorming on building a router table and have been thinking, what if you built a horizontal router with a tilting table, then I found this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EBxyPdBZVR8&feature=share&list=ULEBxyPdBZVR8 I've decided to build a table with a pivoting fence but a tilting horizontal table is too cool to forget about. Maybe if I ever get back into building furniture I'll have another think on it.
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Sep 6, 2012 05:40
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JamSessionEin posted:I feel like this may be the best place to ask this question... Another option, look for a used stainless steel table from a commercial kitchen. Around here I see them all the time at auctions or the state surplus store.
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Oct 21, 2012 04:42
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Porter Cable is to biscuit joiners what Bosch is to jig saws, basically they set the standard years ago. I've owned the PC for quite a few years and its very well thought out, well built and easy to set up and use. PC started selling some crappy consumer level stuff at hardware stores but the biscuit joiner is still one of their high quality tools.
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Oct 22, 2012 20:27
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The Domino looks like a cool tool but youtube videos make it look awkward to use. It seems like a tool for limited audience, either Festophiles or production shops too big for hand made joints but too small for fast production equipment. You could do the same thing with a horizontal router for a lot less money.
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Oct 23, 2012 20:25
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Daggerpants posted:I'm looking for a table saw, but I didn't want to spend a grand, or get one of those cheapo plastic ones. Is this decent? Check it out in person but I think so. For anything beyond rough carpentry you'll want to replace that fence. Barely used Delta Unifences are not uncommon and and can be had fairly inexpensive. They are fantasticly built, extremely strong and precise. The only downside is the design which doesn't allow you to use shop built jigs that ride the fence (not a big deal) but they have other advantages instead, like being able to easily build custom fences. Rockwell and Delta are the same company so it may bolt right up.
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Dec 12, 2012 20:30
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Daggerpants posted:Are there any good brands that are solid like that for a few hundred new? No. For rough carpentry maybe, but not really. Anything below $600 new is just a circular saw turned upside down with a crude fence. How close is this to you? http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/tls/3455813444.html Needs some TLC and eventually a different fence but you might want to check into it.
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Dec 13, 2012 04:37
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Early Christmas present to myself. An old George H Bishop rip saw, dates to between 1887-1899. 28" blade, 5.5 teeth per inch. It may not look like much but these are drat fine saws. This one has no real collector value as the original horn was broken and replaced and it is also missing two teeth but it's very sharp and should be a good user saw. Tomorrow I'll test drive it.
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Dec 18, 2012 09:50
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kid sinister posted:Man, I have no idea how carpenters did their jobs before circular saws became common. My arm would fall off before I even built one wall, let alone an entire house! A lot of it was that they had much better quality saws. Hand tools took a general decline after 1930ish. I cut some 1x pine today and it only took a couple strokes to cut the width of the saw, or a little over 7". But yeah, it would kill me to use just a hand saw building a house.
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Dec 18, 2012 23:53
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Daggerpants posted:Got sold out from under me, not having great luck. How about these?: The first one, or the Grizzly bandsaw.
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Dec 28, 2012 05:52
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Stavrogin posted:Does anyone have experience will drill press lathe attachments? I want to try turning, and have a great drill press, and don't want to shell out for a lathe. Seems like a great solution, unless there's something I'm missing about how they work or anyone has horror stories. Eh? http://woodgears.ca/lathe/homemade.html The lathe is the cheap part of turning, believe me. Spring pole lathes are very simple to build; no need to even use a pole in this day of bungee cords. Treadle lathes can be built cheap but are not simple. Used lathes are common on Craigslist. A mini-lathe can be had for under $100 used. Turning is playtime, if you think you might like it, you will.
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Jan 7, 2013 18:39
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Speaking of Milwaukee, anyone used their random orbit sander? It has some mixed reviews. The people who love it would marry it and have it's babies. But a few have had trouble with the bearings going out prematurely (as in weeks). I'm trying to decide between it and the less expensive Bosch which also gets glowing reviews.
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Jan 19, 2013 08:15
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Super Waffle posted:Hey guys, I'm in the market for a used table saw, my budget being $200, preferably less. Looking around craigslist I see a couple options: Some things to keep in mind, Craftsman list "maximum developed" horsepower which is useless. In reality it's probably closer to 1.75-2 HP. The fence makes the saw. If you want to do carpentry it won't be critical but for any level of precision woodworking you need a stable fence. Both saws are 15 amp, the Craftsman has an induction motor which will be quieter, I believe the Dewalt has a universal motor (like a circular saw). Amp for amp the universal motor has a slight edge with power but I wouldn't worry about that. I've heard people bitch about the miter slot on that particular Craftsman because it has those tabs that prevent the bar from raising up and also about the saw insert.
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Jan 25, 2013 08:53
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Back when my woodworking was very furniture-centric I would have completely agreed about the tablesaw but these days I'm making more small projects and musical instruments and a band saw would be far more valuable. I do agree though that if you're going to own a tablesaw it should be a good one because I can't imagine anything more aggravating in woodworking than a mediocre or terrible saw. Every project I've ever worked on had to be sawn at some point. Also, I'm already thinking of getting a larger lathe but I would like to stay vintage. How are the old Craftsman lathes? What other old brands are worth looking at?
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Jan 27, 2013 07:09
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Super Waffle posted:Found a couple more table saws in the area: I don't know much about Rigid saws other than some or all of them had alignment problems but their fans are rabid about defending them. The Craftsman probably isn't worth it unless you're willing to put a lot of time into fixing it up. Offer him a $100 for both.
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Feb 3, 2013 02:28
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$5900 and the guy can't even throw in free shipping? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170983973908&ssPageName=ADME:B:SS:US:1123
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Feb 3, 2013 07:30
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