Tool thread: hammering on things was a minor secondary function of these tools

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Hobbies, Crafts, & Houses > Tool thread: hammering on things was a minor secondary function of these tools

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sharkytm: Oct 9, 2003; Ba

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Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo; Fallen Rib

Anubis posted:

Anyone have recommendations on chainsaws?

The one I have: http://www.poulanpro.com/node7967.aspx?pid=210963 is kinda poo poo. I mean, it works wonders if your just doing some branch trimming or taking down some 8-12" sapling but the moment you start getting into anything large it starts cutting like a hot knife into granite. Oh and just to give a full review on that chainsaw... It's fairly easy to start, engine holds up well but the chain has some real trouble staying tight. Luckily they knew about this flaw and provided a tool-less chain tightener that honestly is mediocre at best but at least convenient. Overall, if your not actually cutting large trees down you could do worse for the money. It just isn't big enough for the heavy jobs.

Is there anything better that won't run me over $400 or so?

Any non-big-box Husqy or any stihl. Most folks don't need anything bigger than 40-45 cc's. I've got a 345, a Rancher 44, and a 262XP. The 345 would be more than enough for 99% of people. I only use my 262 on really big poo poo (18+ inch diameter hardwood, or 24+inch softwood), and even that's really overkill.

The big-box store saws are complete crap, they have a lifespan of 1/10 that of a real saw. Head to your local Husqy dealer, and pick up a small saw. If you maintain it, it'll last you basically your entire life. My Rancher 44 is from 1979, and i rescued it from a shed. It still runs, and although parts are hard to find, its still a strong saw.

The other key is a good, sharp chain. Learn to sharpen your own, it only take me about 20 minutes to sharpen a 20" loop.

# ¿ Feb 13, 2011 04:41

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# ¿ May 2, 2024 12:56

sharkytm: Oct 9, 2003; Ba

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Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo; Fallen Rib

The best thing to do is install an auto-drain system. Every time the compressor turns off (fills the tank), it'll open the drain for a few seconds. I've got to install mine, but I got it from HF for pretty short money.

My 80 gallon 175PSI compressor is always charged. I just shut the air valve and shut the breaker off.

# ¿ Mar 3, 2011 17:57

sharkytm: Oct 9, 2003; Ba

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Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo; Fallen Rib

dwoloz posted:

Thanks for the replies folks, some good things to think about

An automatic drain would be nice, have to look more into those. HF one is only $10 but has some pretty poor reviews http://www.harborfreight.com/automatic-compressor-drain-kit-46960.html

Just bought the Makita MAC700 compressor from Amazon ($175 shipped). It was either this or the cheapy Porter Cable pancake and although the PC would've been nicely portable for trim jobs, I think the beefier Makita will be more reliable and quiet (oiled vs oil-less)

If you upgrade the flex line to braided stainless or solid copper, its a much less crappy system.

# ¿ Mar 4, 2011 20:43

sharkytm: Oct 9, 2003; Ba

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Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo; Fallen Rib

Schpyder posted:

So I'm just starting to get into woodworking (parents got me a Milwaukee M18 set for christmas), and I'm considering picking up a combination router set for general joinery and edge moldings. I was wandering around in Lowe's today, and saw that they dropped the price on the Bosch 1617EVSPK to $179, lower than I've seen it anywhere online, and lower than any of the other combo kits I've considered (DeWalt DW618PK, Milwaukee 5616-24).

Soooo... should I jump on it? It was marked "new lower price," does anyone know if that means the price drop is permanent or just temporary? It'd be nice if I could wait until April, since Discover is doing 5% cashback on home improvement store purchases then.

Thats a fine router. Bosch stuff is really nice. I have that one, although (I'm ashamed to admit) that I've never used it. I got it as a wedding present, and haven't needed a router in over a year.

# ¿ Mar 7, 2011 16:09

sharkytm: Oct 9, 2003; Ba

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Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo; Fallen Rib

Delivery McGee posted:

Just some thick-wall 1" square tube. The bits did come in a big set with the Ryobi cordless toolkit, and look pretty grainy on the broken surfaces. My drill is too tough for cheap bits, apparently.

Cheap bits are for wood/plastic, not metal. Also, very low drill speed and lots of oil helps. I was drilling 1/2" steel plate yesterday with a 1/2" bit. I had to step from 1/8 to 1/4 to 5/16 to 1/2".

# ¿ Mar 12, 2011 16:14

sharkytm: Oct 9, 2003; Ba

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Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo; Fallen Rib

Acid Reflux posted:

That's my guess as well. Usually a pin will have a complete through-hole so you can knock it back out if needed.

Or its an allen set screw.

# ¿ Mar 14, 2011 03:24

sharkytm: Oct 9, 2003; Ba

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Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo; Fallen Rib

I'm glad it was a spring pin, and not an Allen Set Screw. I've got one that's stuck in a really nice boring bar for my lathe, and I've tried just about everything to remove it. Last resort, the torch.

# ¿ Mar 15, 2011 20:23

sharkytm: Oct 9, 2003; Ba

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Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo; Fallen Rib

Iskariot posted:

Stuck how? Is the head on the bolt ruined or is it just rusted solid? I've extracted some bolts and screws by filing a track into them and gone to town with an impact driver. If the head is still intact you should just try an impact driver if you haven't. The difference between regular unfastening with a beefy drill and the driver is night and day. I've snapped the head of a hardened Allen bolt on a circular saw because I forgot it was a links bolt. All while holding the saw in one hand and the driver in the other. The torque must have been immense but nothing travels to your arms.

Honestly, an Allen bolt would have med a hell of a lot more sense in my case. Getting a spring pin out from a one way hole is pretty high on the oh-gently caress-me list.

Did some initial shining on the column last night. It's going to clean up good.

The bolt's head is still intact, but its recessed about 1/2" inside the face of the boring bar (someone tightened it all the way, then left it for 20+ years), so I can't grind any slots into it. Its also a 3mm head, so an impact is gonna strip it. I've actually twisted up two allen keys (good USA-made ones). Its hilarious. The attached picture gives you an idea of how its made. See the teeny allen screw on the far right? That's what is stuck.

Luckily, I finally got my OA torch setup running again, and I'm just gonna heat the bar up, which should loosen the bolt.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

# ¿ Mar 17, 2011 14:31

sharkytm: Oct 9, 2003; Ba

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Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo; Fallen Rib

I'm very familiar with impact guns, I've got 2 air-powered ones, and a Makita 18V Lithium 1/4" impact. I just know that it'd gently caress up the screw. Heat it is.

# ¿ Mar 17, 2011 16:14

sharkytm: Oct 9, 2003; Ba

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Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo; Fallen Rib

Slung Blade posted:

Heat will warp your boring bar and hurt your accuracy pretty badly won't it?

You're a car guy Sharky, don't you have some ATF you can soak it in for a couple of days or something?

e: unless you already tried that or something

I'm hoping that heating it up slowly and letting it cool slowly won't hurt the bar, plus (i'm ashamed to admit this) the lathe is still non-functional, has been for 2 years now... I still haven't gotten around to making a motor mounting plate for it.

Its been soaking in ATF for about 2 months now. No help.

# ¿ Mar 17, 2011 18:44

sharkytm: Oct 9, 2003; Ba

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Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo; Fallen Rib

Slung Blade posted:

Well poo poo, that sucks.

How much are boring bars anyway? Can you make your own?

If I had a lathe, yes, I assume I could make one.

Or if I had any inclination to spend money on my existing lathe.

Or if I had any clue how to use it.

However, other things in my life are vastly more important, so my 1942 Logan 10x32 sits, alone on a steel table in my garage, covered in fluid film to keep the Cape Cod Rusty Bandits at bay.

Currently, 2 goon-bikes are in the garage as well, and my boss just asked me to rewire his 1973 20' Seacraft center console... The lathe is not exactly a priority.

# ¿ Mar 17, 2011 18:56

sharkytm: Oct 9, 2003; Ba

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Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo; Fallen Rib

truncated aardvar posted:

I'm looking at a drill bit sharpener. I'm looking at Drill Doctor - anything else I should consider?

A bench grinder? I sharpen all my bits by hand on my cheapo grinder, and they come out really nicely.

# ¿ Mar 31, 2011 18:45

sharkytm: Oct 9, 2003; Ba

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Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo; Fallen Rib

Slung Blade posted:

I'll second that.

I've learned how to sharpen all of my bits with a bench grinder, and it works great. Even big ones like 1/2 - 7/8ths.

I used to use a vice and an angle grinder. That worked, but not nearly as well.

The grinder doesn't work on very small bits (1/8" or less), but those are throw-aways for me anyhow. On larger bits it works great. Maybe the Drill Doctor works on small bits, but I can't imagine it'll do well with a 1/2" bit with a big chip in the cutting edge.

# ¿ Apr 1, 2011 15:30

sharkytm: Oct 9, 2003; Ba

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Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo; Fallen Rib

Iskariot posted:

I agree on corded and heavy reciprocating saw if you're going to cut a lot of metal. Like a drill I prefer a small, not high-powered unit when I do smaller work. Less strain on the arms and more precision. If I were to get just one saw and heavy metal work was one of the tasks I had to handle, get a big corded unit. For my use, and what looks like truncated aardvar's main use, any saw will do. I would prefer a cordless simply because you get mobility and enough power. I agree completely on blades - make sure you have correct ones and they are sharp.

My corded saw is actually a small DeWalt - DW304PK. I got this before the Makita, which I got as part of a larger deal. I wouldn't use the DW304PK for heavy work either but it has a really neat feature in the front. You can attach the blade horizontally so it can be used close to a wall or floor. This came very handy when I was removing a door frame close to a wall.

They make flush-cut adapters now. They are awesome.

I'd go with a corded sawzall. I've got the LXT 18v Makita, but a corded one makes everything easier.

# ¿ Apr 27, 2011 16:01

sharkytm: Oct 9, 2003; Ba

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Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo; Fallen Rib

wormil posted:

If I were only going to use it in a shop with outlets handy I would get a corded but if you're going to be outside (or other areas where you would need an extension cord) and only own one saw, I would get a cordless. I have a home duty 18v Porter Cable and I wouldn't recommend it except for basic home chores but it's among the best purchases I've ever made. It chews through wall studs and nails like nothing. Definitely get a 2nd battery and plenty extra blades.

And lithium batteries. Nothing like a 30-minute charge, or a 5-minute "finish the job" charge. NiCad would take 30 for the "finish the job"...

# ¿ Apr 28, 2011 14:49

sharkytm: Oct 9, 2003; Ba

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Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo; Fallen Rib

Don't let the Rigid warranty sway you too much. My father-in-law has just about every Rigid woodworking tool out there, and he recently had a problem with his jobsite table saw. No problem, right, lifetime warranty and all?

Nope. Rigid wanted the original receipt, and demanded that he ship the saw on his own dollar to one of their facilities so they could determine the problem. He didn't have the receipt, so they chose to not honor their warranty because they weren't sure he had purchased it. He then had to pay to have it shipped back to him. We repaired the problem with about $20 in metal tubing.

Basically, the warranty is BS.

# ¿ May 4, 2011 18:38

sharkytm: Oct 9, 2003; Ba

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Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo; Fallen Rib

tworavens posted:

Got myself a Hakko Fx-888 soldering station today, spent about two hours in the garage trying it out, soldering up some things. I have to say its very nice. Brought itself up to temp so quickly I thought something was wrong with it. I don't really care for the color so much, looks like some old school nerf gun. But it works really well, and doesn't take up much desk space.

Its a huge step up from a radioshack soldering iron, and it has equal build quality and faster warm up time compared to the Weller stations I've used at school.

It cost me about $100 after tax and shipping.

It came with a nice screwdriver style tip, a bit of brass cleaning wool, and a nice cleaning sponge in addition to the stand and base.

Thats a nice iron. I've got an old XYTronics, which is black (a plus), and was half that cost (another plus), but its been discontinued. Grr.

# ¿ May 19, 2011 14:53

sharkytm: Oct 9, 2003; Ba

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Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo; Fallen Rib

iForge posted:

So I picked up an OLD Wilton No. 60 vise on Tuesday. It weighs atleast 100 pounds. The dynamic jaw was seized when I first got it, and it is missing the plate that attaches the screw to the dynamic jaw so that the jaw opens when you turn the screw counter clockwise. Easy fix. Getting the dynamic jaw unstuck was a whole different matter...

I ended up using a chisel and a hammer to unstick it initially. Then came the crowbar to move it a little farther, and I was able to progressively open it to about 4 inches and thats all it would go. Then I had an idea....

Two minutes later and the jack had saved the day...

I hit it with a wire cup on the angle grinder and I currently have everything soaking in a heavy degreaser to remove the petrified grease from the inside of the box and off everything in general. The screw, as pictured below, is in IMMACULATE shape for the age of this vise as well. Date of manufacture is January 1945.

I am open to suggestions on what color to paint the body and a different accent color for the raised lettering. Also, does anyone know how to remove the back cap off of one of these? There are no pins or screws and I don't want to force anything. It will just make cleaning a bit easier...

Ask on GarageJournal... or do a search over there. Lots of rebuilding of vises going on in the forums.

# ¿ Jun 16, 2011 14:33

sharkytm: Oct 9, 2003; Ba

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Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo; Fallen Rib

I just bought the six piece set of wera screwdrivers on Amazon... what a difference even compared to my Mac and snap on drivers. Do yourselves a favor and get some.

# ¿ Jul 2, 2011 19:17

sharkytm: Oct 9, 2003; Ba

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Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo; Fallen Rib

I bought a Rigid Jobmax setup this weekend (I had a spot I had to have a 90� drill for, and it was close to the same price for a standalone 90� drill...

Its loving awesome. The 4-position power head is really handy, so you can move the trigger and LED to any direction you need. The drill is really really compact, which is a bonus (the Ryobi 90� drill was 2" wider, and wouldn't have fit in my space).

If only they still had the free attachment promo still going.

# ¿ Jul 22, 2011 13:56

sharkytm: Oct 9, 2003; Ba

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Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo; Fallen Rib

dwoloz posted:

The venerable and inexpensive Buck Bros 6 in 1 is my screwdriver of choice

I buy the cheap harbor freight ones for use on the boats, perfect nut drivers.

# ¿ Nov 18, 2011 02:19

sharkytm: Oct 9, 2003; Ba

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Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo; Fallen Rib

therunningman posted:

With all this talk about good/crappy pliers I need to mention Knipex.
For the longest time I was buying the Canadian Tire specials, until I finally broke down and purchased a few different Knipex pliers.
No comparison, the tools ooze quality and now I can never go back to the cheap stuff.

Any German brand is way nicer than anything made here.

# ¿ Nov 24, 2011 18:39

sharkytm: Oct 9, 2003; Ba

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Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo; Fallen Rib

Their tile saw is indeed awesome. I did all the cutting for my glass time backsplash with one. Just put on a decent blade and away you go.

# ¿ Nov 25, 2011 18:08

sharkytm: Oct 9, 2003; Ba

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Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo; Fallen Rib

Circus Pies! posted:

Well gently caress, I've been robbed.

I went out to my garage today for the first time since last weekend to find the place completely turned upside down. I stood there for a few minuets completely dumbfounded, like my brain would not accept what I was seeing. This really sucks. So far I've been able to determine that they got:

RYOBI bench top drill press
RYOBI bench top band saw
RYOBI trim router
RIDGID reciprocating saw
RIDGID Random orbit sander
CRAFTSMAN Router attached to a 18’ X 18” square of 1/2” thick MDF board
DEWALT 12v cordless drill
DEWALT 12v cordless impact driver
DEWALT 18v cordless circular saw
DEWALT tool bag full of bits, sockets and other small tools
Black tool bag(s) full of bits, sockets and other small tools

Who says living in the country is safe? People who are loving wrong, that's who!

If you live around Nashville, TN and hear about someone selling this kind of stuff call the police.

Sounds like the perfect time to upgrade! (Sorry, it still sucks).

# ¿ Dec 11, 2011 22:34

sharkytm: Oct 9, 2003; Ba

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Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo; Fallen Rib

the spyder posted:

Tool recommendation: Chainsaw

I did a ton of research last fall after destroying out 15yr old Stihl 025 chainsaw. We have 4.x~ acres covered in Beech, Walnut, Maple and are regularly doing cleanup work. Our house is also heated by a wood stove, so at least once a year I cut 3-5 cords of wood. I was looking for two saws. A main felling saw and a smaller limbing saw. One of my biggest complaints about the 025 was its short 16" chain. It was great for 12" or smaller, but lacked the power for anything larger. I had initially decided I was going to move away from Stihl to the now Makita owned Dolmar or Husqvarna. I have a great passion for German tools and Dolmar has always received rave reviews from arborists I know. I have also heard great things about the Husky Farm series saws from fellow friends who cut 20+ cords of firewood. Sadly I was on a tight budget of $500 for both saws and decided to see what I could come up with on Craigslist. After reading about some of the higher end Stihl saws, I decided to find a MS260 Pro or Husky 455 Rancher for the feller and a smaller 14" Makita/Dolmar for the limbing saw.

I quickly found that in my area, Dolmars are rare and expensive. Everyone wants the same price as nearly new for a 2yr old saw. And sadly my luck was not any better for Husqvarna's as people wanted $300 for a never serviced, 4yr old saw. Stihls however seem to be in plentiful supply and cheap! I gave up looking and checked out the local farm stores/ dealers. Buying new would at least give me a warranty, but at nearly $700 for two saws, I contently kept looking on Craigslist. One day I found the saw above. Its a 2009 Stihl MS260. A fellow was on the same hunt as I was for the perfect set of saws to maintain his property and won a Dolmar on ebay, leaving this one unused with two tanks of fuel through it. I happily paid him $275 for it. I have since ran 20+ tanks of fuel through it as we prep for our new shop and I could not be happier. The larger 455 Husky weighed more for the same HP and I can see where this would be useful if you were just rounding firewood all day. The day I got it I "muffler modded it" and removed the factory restriction in the muffler for noise regulations. I took it to our local saw shop and had them adjust the mixture, as otherwise it would lean out at 14,000rpms.

The power to weight in this thing is just unbelievable. I highly recommend it. I am running a 3/8 chain and so far it dropped my cut time by 1/3rd. As for the felling saw, I just won a ebay auction for a DCS34 with a 14" Oregon bar and 3/8ths chain for $200 shipped and I can't wait to try it out.

Nice. I'm a fan of my Husqvarna 261, and echo 45 cc combo. The echo was cheap, and does most of the day to day poo poo. The Husqvarna was $210 used, and will take down anything I've ever had the balls to tackle. Both run exclusively on vp racing fuels "sef" which lasts for three years once opened. It's not cheap, $75 for five gallons, but I've never had a fuel problem in either.

# ¿ Dec 13, 2011 02:52

sharkytm: Oct 9, 2003; Ba

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Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo; Fallen Rib

dur posted:

Finally made a table for my radial arm saw. Still need to find or make some clamps for the fence, though.

And build a proper work bench, and probably not store computer bits where they'll get covered in sawdust.

What's up my RAS brother?

# ¿ Feb 12, 2012 04:30

sharkytm: Oct 9, 2003; Ba

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Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo; Fallen Rib

dur posted:

I've been working on aligning this saw and everything, and I noticed this thing:

is a little plastic cap over a threaded stub. I assume there's things that can be attached there - google's found people talking about sanders and drill chucks and such for Craftsman and Dewalt RASs, but I can't find a drat thing about this one I've got - a Delta 33-990. Is there anything I can actually use this little stub for?

Oh man those look fancy, and holy crap some guy on sawmill creek spent $800 on lumber for his.

Drill chuck and sander. If you figure out what thread it is, you can find a chuck to match.

# ¿ Feb 17, 2012 02:21

sharkytm: Oct 9, 2003; Ba

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Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo; Fallen Rib

dur posted:

I figured those were, like, specially designed for the individual saws, I had no idea you could get drill chucks that just screw on like that. Awesome.

No kidding. Some of them look so nice I'd be afraid to actually use them.

Chucks either screw on or press on. I'll bet a standard Jacobs chuck will fit.

# ¿ Feb 17, 2012 19:39

sharkytm: Oct 9, 2003; Ba

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Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo; Fallen Rib

stubblyhead posted:

Go for the LIon. I got a drill/impact driver set for my birthday and there's a big difference. As much or more power in a lighter package than my old NiCad one, and your batteries will last a lot longer as well (both in charge time and in lifetime).

Yup. The only thing that sucks about LiIon is that when they die, they DIE. No slowdown, no warning, just dead.

# ¿ Mar 10, 2012 04:50

sharkytm: Oct 9, 2003; Ba

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Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo; Fallen Rib

stubblyhead posted:

Is that the thing that does the pocket drilling like for making cabinet fascia and poo poo like that?

Ayup, they rock.

# ¿ Mar 11, 2012 05:05

sharkytm: Oct 9, 2003; Ba

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Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo; Fallen Rib

Circus Pies! posted:

My eyesight is going bad and I am going to need glasses so I thought I would ask if anyone has any suggestions for glasses that will stand up to workshop conditions.

do you need real glasses, or just magnifiers? If its just cheaters, try Duluth trading.

# ¿ Mar 24, 2012 14:24

sharkytm: Oct 9, 2003; Ba

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Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo; Fallen Rib

WashinMyGoat posted:

Has anyone had a battery get jammed in their drill under normal use? I have never dropped my Hitachi 18V hammer drill, and the battery died and I couldn't get it out to change it. I pried a little bit but gave up because I didn't want to damage anything in case my warranty is still good. I haven't been pleased with the LiIon battery life either, so maybe it's a faulty kit.

The battery in my Makita drill stuck the first time I used it, but never again. It was just a little plastic sprue that didn't get trimmed at the factory.

# ¿ May 3, 2012 12:13

sharkytm: Oct 9, 2003; Ba

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Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo; Fallen Rib

Sounds like the place for a few wraps of aluminium foil.

# ¿ Jun 10, 2012 04:58

sharkytm: Oct 9, 2003; Ba

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Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo; Fallen Rib

The Human Cow posted:

My wife and I just got back from my honeymoon and opened up our wedding gifts. Mixed in with all of the china, linens, picture frames, etc. was a Dewalt reciprocating saw from one of my groomsmen. Best wedding gift ever

One of my captains bought me a Makita lithium ion four piece set... Best. wedding. present. ever.

# ¿ Jun 27, 2012 03:33

sharkytm: Oct 9, 2003; Ba

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Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo; Fallen Rib

LordOfThePants posted:

Any suggestions for good impact driver bits? I don't own one and neither does my Dad, but his birthday is coming up so I thought it'd be a good opportunity to buy him one (that I could then borrow).

I've heard you shouldn't use standard screwdriver bits in them like you would with a drill because the impact action will twist them off. I see a lot of them on Amazon, but I suspect a lot of it just standard bits that are black oxide coated.

I looked at some Wera bits, but they seem a little pricy for something that might tend to get lost or misplaced. Any other quality options?

Milwaukee shockwave bits are great. Regular bits will snap. Wera is great and all, but too spendy for regular use.

# ¿ Sep 11, 2012 01:54

sharkytm: Oct 9, 2003; Ba

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Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo; Fallen Rib

JamSessionEin posted:

I feel like this may be the best place to ask this question...

I am converting a small barn on my property into a workshop for me to do various manly things in. One of the things I want to put in is a nice 8ft workbench, and I kinda want to get one with a metal top. Any suggestions as to where I should be looking? Home Depot has just the stainless steel top, 8 feet, for $250 and I don't mind building the base, but I feel like there has to be a better option.

Buy a piece of thick steel plate, and build a table top fit it. Or, buy two harbor freight 42" tool boxes and use them for the base.

# ¿ Oct 20, 2012 22:05

sharkytm: Oct 9, 2003; Ba

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Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo; Fallen Rib

JamSessionEin posted:

I guess my question then would be where would you find a thick steel plate the right size up for sale? I don't know where to source that kind of thing as I have never done so before.

Search "metal sales" in your area. You could also check a scrap yard, many sell steel (or you could find a piece of scrap that'll work). I've got a piece of 3/8" plate on my welding bench. I'd like a piece of half, but it was to heavy top move alone... It was 36" by 42", and about seventy five bucks.

# ¿ Oct 21, 2012 02:53

sharkytm: Oct 9, 2003; Ba

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Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo; Fallen Rib

wormil posted:

Another option, look for a used stainless steel table from a commercial kitchen. Around here I see them all the time at auctions or the state surplus store.

This isn't a bad idea of you need something lighter duty. You can't bash on a stainless table with a hammer, but for many things, it'd be perfect.

# ¿ Oct 21, 2012 14:18

sharkytm: Oct 9, 2003; Ba

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Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo; Fallen Rib

Reggie Died posted:

Just emptied to the truck and shed, trying to re-structure the organization of all my tools. While they are all out and about, I was wanting to give them all a cosmetic wipe down. Is paint thinner or lacquer thinner a good idea, or just warm water?

I use WD40 and a rag.

# ¿ Dec 3, 2012 02:54

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# ¿ May 2, 2024 12:56

sharkytm: Oct 9, 2003; Ba

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Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo; Fallen Rib

wormil posted:

For months I've been watching for a decent used drill press at a good price and less than a week after buying one I'm offered a vintage Powermatic for only a bit more than I paid for the Jet/Orbit. One problem is my tool budget is busted for a few weeks. I'm not sure whether to laugh or cry. Another problem is the PM has a 3phase motor.

I just bought a delta Rockwell 17 from garage journal. Three phase, 2 mt quill, floor model. I bought a teco fm 50 vfd for it. Between the big set of pulleys and the vfd, I'll be able to make it turn from 12 rpm to over 20,000. Don't be afraid of three phase. The vfd from dealers electric was $140. I paid $300 for the drill press with a 5/8 Jacobs chuck, and the guy is going to install the vfd and write up the on/off switch, speed dial, and a light for another $25.

# ¿ Feb 17, 2013 15:42

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Hobbies, Crafts, & Houses > Tool thread: hammering on things was a minor secondary function of these tools

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