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Just picked this up today and thought I'd give a short review. Back & Decker Dragster (because of the different sized wheels).  Went to Canadian Tire today with the intent of buying a belt sander. I got there and saw the model above, plus these two as well. Mastercrap Sander........DeWallet Sander   Those of you that have the pleasure know how hit or miss Mastercraft can be, and I was also turned off on how similar it looked to the Black & Decker, but how cheap and awkward it felt as well. The DeWALT is nice, but Goddamn is that sucker big, heavy and expensive. I split the difference and got the Black & Decker. It's called the Dragster because of the tiny wheel at the front (looks like a dragster). This allows you to get super close to a wall or any other object that might be in your way or under some sort of low-hanging object like a cupboard with a tue space under it. I was a little worried the tiny wheel on the front might be too much (or more accurately too little) for the belts to navigate, but it spun around without cracking or losing any abrasive. The unit is nice and light but it also feels really solid and well made (unlike the Mastercraft which felt like it would snap in 4 different places. The front handle is adjustable, and the plate at the front on top of the belt can be flipped up. . . for some reason that escapes me, but would possibly be useful. The belts go on and off in second with the orange flip switch on the side, and right out of the box the alignment was perfect without the belt wanting to slide to either side. It's not as loud as the older B&D's I've used, but you still want ear protection. The only downside I've encountered is the dust collection system. It uses some manner of cyclonic catch with an air filter inside. It does a pretty good job of catching the dust, but some accumulates on the underside of it. If you're going to be doing any heavy sanding, or sanding for more than 15 minutes you're going to have to remove the collection canister, empty it, and give the filter a tap or two to clean it out (10 second procedure). The whole dust collection system slides on and off which is good and bad. The tube the dust runs down is ovalish/squareish, so you're not going to be able to fit a vacuum cleaner hose to it without using a hell of a lot of tape, or fabricating your own adapter. When looking at the other two sanders they both a very similar setup to this (the square dust tube, not the cyclone filter setup). I've only used it for about an hour, but so far I'm pretty happy with it.
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Apr 4, 2011 00:38
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dwoloz posted:Been using a Makita 3x21 belt sander extensively and its dust collection is lame too. Works alright for about 20 board feet then it jams up with dust; have to blow it out with a compressor The 30 year old Black & Decker that finally died on me was one of the first ones to use a bag to collect dust. It guess the first ones didn't work that well since it seemd to be another 15 years since they came back. What I did like about it was it fit my centralvac hose perfectly and not only did it never plug up with dust, but the suction actually collected dust that should have normally been left on the floor. This had the added benefit of allowing the belts to last a lot longer since they were always sanding wood instead of binding and burning dust/floor finish. I'm on the lookout for some sort of part that I could use as an adapter. It's times like this having a 3D printer would come in handy. Edit: Seems that there are two little flaws in the Black & Decker Dragster. 1. The dust collection system clogs really easily and even after vacuuming and blowing it out it doesn't want to collect any more. Strange. 2. If the sanding belts track to the left, they will rub on the plastic guard and the plastic bracket holding the front roller. Keep an eye on this or else you'll be smelling burning plastic. Overall, after a few hours of use I'm still happy I got it. I had to drop the grit down from a 50 to a 36 since the 50's were just gumming up with old floor finish. Here are some (crappy cell phone) comparison pics.   This floor is 82-83 years old and after some 36 grit paper, then some 50 grit to remove the gouges, then some 120 to smooth it, then some polyurathane a light dusting with some 220, another coat, then another dusting with some 220, and finally a last coat and then some buffing it will look like a new floor, with a bit of character. When I start to do the sanding with the 50 grit I'm going to save the dust from that and mix it with resin/glue to use as a putty material to fill in cracks and holes. Then I'll do my final 120 sanding and then start the coats. Blistex fucked around with this message at 03:44 on Apr 6, 2011 |
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Apr 4, 2011 13:38
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King of the Cows posted:Wait, you're doing that with a belt sander? You know you can rent those big-rear end drum sanders down at the Home Depot, right? I just wanted to see how many belts I would burn through doing it this way, which turned out to be too many to make it worthwhile. I was actually making some pretty good progress, and it does a nice job, but yah, I am totally renting one of those big industrial orbital sanders tomorrow from Home Hardware. I was hoping I'd save money doing it this way, but those 36 grit belts die fast and even with the rental fee, I guess the big sander will be cheaper in the long run. dyne posted:How close to the wall can you get with that B&D sander? I was thinking of buying one to use instead of an edging sander. With the end of the sander pointing towards the wall, about 1", maybe 3/4" if you push it. Obviously, if you're putting the side against the edge you can get even closer, but will eventually have to go against the grain for two of the walls in any given room. Either way, you're still going to need an edge sander. I've used it for about 4 hours total, and it's nice, keep an eye on the tracking or else the belt will sink too far in and start to rub. Also the dust collection system gets clogged fairly easily so you'll have to clean it out fairly often.
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Apr 9, 2011 03:34
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/\/\ Learn something new every day! Thanks. Well I went to rent that big reciprocating sander Saturday morning, but the guy who used it before managed to break the handle so I have to wait for them to replace it since there are no other options within a reasonable driving distance. Small towns really suck some times.
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Apr 11, 2011 22:41
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stubblyhead posted:Does that mean that it's possible to find closed coat sandpaper for a belt sander? I think he just said that closed coat is found on them, do you mean the open coat? (stuff that doesn't gum up as easily)
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Apr 12, 2011 01:48
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stubblyhead posted:D'oh, yes that is exactly what I meant. http://rubpugxyc.tk/search/3-X-21-Aluminum-Oxide-Belts I just googled 3x21 open coat and that was the first result. I guess whatever size belts your sander takes just type it in and see.
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Apr 12, 2011 04:16
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I got a mastercraft router bit kit (this one)  While it's nice to have that many bits for a cheap price, you have to be careful. Brand new, I put a bit in and the router started to shake like crazy. When I stopped it I saw that the work end of it came lopsided from the factory. I checked the rest and didn't find another like it, but I did find one with a roller bearing that didn't want to spin. If you can, check them before you buy. I lived 2 hours from the store so I just decided to keep it (I think it was on sale for $10 so not worth it in gas money alone). Another bit fired the roller bearing across the room when I was using it and destroyed the piece I was working on. The bits that I used often are noticeably dull. If you're just starting out, cheap kits are good, but upgrade asap. The quality of your work will improve and you'll be safer. Speaking of, any suggestions for some higher quality but lower priced ones kits? (I'm in Canada btw).
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May 11, 2011 18:24
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Hypnolobster posted:With cutoff wheels on grinders, you need to be fairly cautious of sideloading them too much, which can make them break apart (always wear eye protection). With a setup like this I think the pull down clear visor would be better, last thing he needs are chunks of metal lodged in his face. This was a rule in metal shop when I was in high school. If you are using any manner of tool that involved a rapidly spinning bit coming in contact with metal you have to wear the clear face mask. Don't know home many times we saw some red hot hunk of metal (this stuff folding over from grinding/cutting friction) lodging itself into the plastic visor. Blistex fucked around with this message at 19:52 on Aug 24, 2011 |
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Aug 24, 2011 19:42
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I'm going to be painting my living room soon and I have two windows with trim around them, crown moulding, two entrances with trim as well, and trim all along the floor. What's the best product to use to keep from getting paint on the trim or having to tape for hours on end? I'm looking for first-hand experience, not "it worked on this infomercial". I've seen flat pads with rollers, rollers with guards, metal edges, sponges with guards, brushes with rollers, etc. . . What actually works as advertised?
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Oct 7, 2011 04:53
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jackyl posted:Pretty much nothing but good technique andmpatience, from what I've found. I wasted money on a bunch of those types of things too, and none of them do any better than just being careful and going slow. Sorry, I know that not what you wanted to hear, but save yourself the money - or spend it on touch up trim paint... NOOOOOOOOOOooooooooooooooooooOOOOOOOOOOOOOOoooooooooooo! Tape! I hate it! I hate it! I've done 2 rooms and used 5 rolls already.
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Oct 7, 2011 13:25
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Error 404 NpH posted:Get one of these brushes for cutting in the trim Brushes are not really an option. I'm about as steady as the ocean floor off Japan.
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Oct 9, 2011 13:14
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ASSTASTIC posted:My main fear with buying into any cordless line is the battery life/availability. Meaning, it always freaks me out buying too many tools into a line, then finding out the manufacturer doesn't make batteries for that tool anymore or moved away from that battery type completely. This was a few pages back, but it's mostly the cheap brands that switch batteries, then stop all production and don't license them to third party battery manufacturers (forcing you to buy all new cordless tools). Mastercraft in Canada did this, but they have been sticking with their new battery line for nearly a decade now, so maybe they've given up on that. Dewalt is really good for making sure their batteries and chargers are still available for their older models. Not sure about Hitachi, but I imagine there they either keep making the older ones, or have a 3rd party doing it.
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Oct 12, 2011 01:48
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what is this posted:Right, but since I need cordless or a generator, I went what seemed like nice cordless stuff. If you have the money, then what you posted is pretty much the best stuff you can get. DeWalt (in my experience) lasts forever. Then again you can get all that stuff for 1/2 as much and it will still be decent quality stuff. How much do you want to spend?
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Oct 12, 2011 05:06
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Rotten Cookies posted:I figured it was worth a shot. Maybe somebody knew/knows about a gem of a cheap spraygun, under the radar or something. Like was already mentioned, unless you're looking on ebay or the newspaper, "Cheap Spraygun" usually means both definitions of the word, and even then, most people with good sprayguns know how much they go for used, and rarely cheap. Best chance to get one of those mythical creatures is a yard sale or an auction where a widow sells off her husband's stuff after he croaked. That's how my uncle managed to get a $300 unit for $25, and a $1200 compressor for $100. I don't know how many cheap Canadian Tire sprayers I've seen in yard sales, and they are all garbage unless you're only worried about painting the side of a barn that nobody will see. I borrowed my neighbor's Mastercraft sprayer and it wasn't even up to the task of coating my deck without wasting 3/4 of the stain.
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May 15, 2012 16:37
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So I think that I'm going to pull the trigger on a dovetail jig setup. Porter Cable seems to be the best "bang for your buck" as it appears to be the only sub-$500 unit that isn't one of those sheet metal jobs that every half-assed company re-brands as their own. But I've run into a problem. There are two nearly identical units, and all I'm really looking for is a jig that will let me make 1/2 blind and through dovetails. I'm not that familiar with the additional features mentioned in the 4216 model, and am wondering if I'm ever going to use them. Porter Cable 4216 12'' Deluxe Dovetail Jig Combo-Kit Porter Cable 4216 12'' Deluxe Dovetail Jig Combo-Kit I'm not asking you guys to do my homework for me, but if any of you have dovetail experience and notice something that I might need in the more expensive one, then feel free to let me know. I'm going to be trying to read up on the two, and google the different features of each. Edit: From what I can gather, the only difference between them is the inclusion of the mini-dovetail jig and related bits. Blistex fucked around with this message at 14:43 on Jun 8, 2012 |
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Jun 8, 2012 13:26
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/\/\ I already made something similar with some scrap plywood. It's a nice setup, but only does box joints.powderific posted:I'm not by any means an expert but I was looking at getting the same Porter Cable system as I'd also gathered that it was the best bang for your buck option. The extra template is the only difference between the two kits. You'd only need it to make smaller dovetails. That said, it's about half as expensive to get it in the kit instead of picking up the template later. If you might want it at some point it'd be worth getting now. I was thinking the same, but then I looked and can't imagine ever wanting to make dovetails that small.
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Jun 9, 2012 03:07
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Got my Porter Cable 4212 dovetail joiner in the mail the other week and finally got a chance to use it.  First of all, the thing came totally assembled in the box, and all you have to do is screw-nail it to a work surface and you're good to go. The unit is mostly constructed from stamped and bent metal, which surprised me, but after thinking about it, machined metal wouldn't really add much to the unit except cost. The jig feels well made, and I don't see any parts that would wear out in the near future with regular use. While it is well made, it is definitely not a professional model. The Porter Cable Omni Jig apparently is, but it seems anyone who does this for a living uses Leigh jigs. This unit comes with two jigs, two guide/template collars, and two 1/2" bits. Going for the 2216 version ($40 more) gives you another jig to do mini-dovetails and and an additional two bits. It's well worth the price as the jig alone costs more than that. I didn't see a need to do mini dovetails, so I just opted for the 4212. The manual is decent, but could definitely benefit from some larger/more detailed pictures. Overall, I could tell exactly what they were trying to say. The only gripe I have with the system is that the offset guide isn't self leveling, and depends on your vertical piece to give it a true positioning. So if your chop saw isn't cutting 100% square, you might have issues! This unit requires a router that will take the template guides and 1/2" bits. I had a router that took the circular guides (seen here) but didn't take 1/2" bits. I needed a new router. Normally I try and shy away from Mastercraft. They're known for making stuff that's cheap and cheap. My dad got a biscuit joiner that can't make two identical cuts to save it's life, and a chop saw that's probably never made a 90 degree cut. This time I went that route for a few reasons.  This is a 12A plunge router that takes 1/2" and 1/4", and it has the appropriate mounting for the Porter Cable guides/templates. Plus it's $99 on sale. I looked at some other ones like Porter Cable, DeWalt, Rigid, Bosch, and King, but this was the only one that had everything I wanted, for under $200. The Rigid was a close second as it was on sale for $150 and had both the plunge and fixed bases, but it required an adapter for the Porter Cable guide, which was selling for $50. . . driving the price over $200. The Mastercraft has a Soft-Start which is nice! Like really nice! There is an ~3 second delay before the bit gets to full speed, so no more jumping in your hand every time you turn it on, and apparently this feature is easier on the motor as well. What I really liked were the three LED lights that shine down on your work. Everything is clear, easy to see, and no more sticking my nose into he stream of chips to see what I'm doing. This unit comes with a straight edge guide and another bottom, and a chip guard so you can stick your face in the line of fire without getting wood chips up your nose. The only downside to this unit is the typical Mastercraft gripe. . . accuracy/precision. The guides and guards that tell you how far you've just lowered the router are not the best, and the presets seem to be off ever-so-slightly. If you're doing something that requires an exact depth, don't go by the gauges on the router alone, get a ruler or a micrometer/depth gauge (non a Mastercraft micrometer/depth gauge). Other than that, everything seems to be fine, and this unit seems to have ample power for both soft and hardwoods. I cut some white ash and it didn't even seem to slow it any. It has a digital display on top that tells you the RPMs and even has buttons to allow you to adjust them. I just left it at max RPMs as it seemed to like cutting at that speed. I don't know how accurate that readout is, and how well you can control the speed, but it seemed to get faster and slower in discernible increments when adjusting it. So how did the two perform together? Well I took some scrap pine to test a 1/2 blind dovetail and it did a perfect join first try! I took a rubber mallet and a hunk of scrap and tapped it together, and there were no gaps. I then tried two scraps of thinner ash and had to do some adjusting. If you're always doing the exact same thicknesses of wood you'll be fine once you get things set. As soon as you change thicknesses (even a mm or two) you have to recalibrate everything. As soon as I got it set up for the new thickness I made a perfect White ash box that I hammered together. Not a drop of glue because there wasn't any room for it! Can't wait to get started on some real projects.
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Jun 25, 2012 15:31
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stubblyhead posted:Make a jig and dremel it? He will have to cut a hole in a sheet of metal the size and shape of a mini-usb port for this jig you propose. I'd suggest that he use a jig fashioned from sheet metal and cut with a dremel tool to make the jig he needs. To make that jig, he will have to cut a hole in a sheet of metal the size and shape of a mini-usb port. The jig to make that one should be made using a metal stamper the exact size and shape of a mini-usb port. The metal stamp could be fashioned using a CNC mill. To use that CNC mill you'll have to fashion a thin steel project box with a mini-usb port interface.
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Jun 26, 2012 17:34
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Hed posted:What does variable speed control buy you on an orbital sander? I was going to buy one for some basic woodworking (refinishing furniture) next weekend and the price delta for variable speed is $15, but I don't know what you can do extra with varying speed. Being able to go at slower speeds is sometimes good when using aggressive grit paper on thick finishes that you are trying to remove. That way it doesn't heat up the work surface as much and the dust doesn't bake to the paper and ruin it faster than normal. Other than that, I've got nothing.
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Aug 26, 2012 18:27
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Ok, so my dad has finally seen the light and is in the market for a new Biscuit Joiner as the Mastercraft he currently owns is incapable of making two cuts the same depth. . . totally defeating the purpose of using a biscuit joiner. Requirements: 1. Can make biscuit joints that are at a consistent depth, consistently. 2. Quality product that isn't going to break/wear out after 10 uses. 3. Doesn't break the bank! We're not looking for any of the $800 ones, so sub $200 would be nice. I use a Biscuit Joiner more than my dad, and probably only 3-5 times a year, usually in hardwood, so it's not like I need a $1200 dewalt that can survive orbital re-entry into reinforced concrete. Also don't try and sell me on the Domino Joiner, looks cool but I've yet to see a place that sells the dominos. Really hoping for first hand experience, as opposed to online reviews or "my friend says only use "X brand" or you're a moron."
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Oct 22, 2012 16:46
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mds2 posted:You can buy them straight from festool. I guess I don't get the hate. The domino does what a biscuit joiner does plus about a million more things. poo poo, I would probably make my own dominos if I had one. The ability to make mortise and floating tenon joints in less than a second is pretty appealing to me. I don't hate it, I really see how it could be the best thing ever, but I live in Canada, so availability and price are two huge factors that mean I will never use one. Also $800-1200 for something I will use approx 5 times a year is not worth it. dwoloz posted:What about a doweling jig? Way more versatile, cheap, can find dowels anywhere or make your own I've made my own doweling jigs for custom jobs, and while they are good for some applications, I prefer a biscuit for others. I especially like the few mm's of wiggle room they afford you when they are glued and you want to align the ends of the workpiece just perfect. Well the concensus seems to be PC, which I was sort of leaning towards anyway, so that's a load off my mind. Thanks!
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Oct 23, 2012 13:05
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dwoloz posted:Cutting by hand doesn't take much longer really with a good sharp waxed saw. I think there were more carpenters working on site also Today it's typical to see independent contractor crews of 3-4 guys putting up a frame, doing the walls and roof, and getting the siding on in just as many days (assuming the foundation is already finished). When a crew of 4 put my grandfather's new house up this summer they had all that done in 3 days, and cleaned up the jobsite on the 4th. He said there were nearly 10 people working on his previous house 60 years earlier, and it took nearly half a summer to finish what they did. Chop/skill saws, cordless tools, power drills, air-nailers, and pre-made building materials like aspenite and plywood are incredible time savers, and building codes help speed things up as well since contractors know what has to be done and how, no matter the design of the house they are working on. dwoloz posted:An interesting option Sears (and others) offered for their catalog homes in the early 20th century was that you could have all your lumber numbered and machine pre-cut to size then delivered by rail. Pretty neat. Was not very expensive either, about $8000 (inflation adjusted) for a small home; even included paint and nails. A guy I know lives in a 2 floor ~2000 sq ft sears house and it's pretty amazing the variety of designs that they used to have and the complexity of them as well. Some of them were standard bungalows, but his had a little bit of character to it. He managed to copy a page from a catalogue that featured his house and the price (I can't remember a number) was incredibly cheap. I wish i knew it so I could adjust for inflation like you did. Google Maps Picture: no additions have been made, that covered porch/deck was part of the plans) 
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Dec 19, 2012 14:20
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Daggerpants posted:Ok, still trolling craigslist in my area - emailed a few people last week but one was sold and the others all never got back to me. Which of these would be the best relative to price: Anything with a cast iron top is best. If the saw has that, you can upgrade from there until you have an amazing saw. Those link belts are really good at taking the wobble out of your blade, and if the motor is kaput and cannot be repaired, it's pretty easy to find a replacement for cheap. You can also get aftermarket fences, and a lot of other stuff that will make a $50 find, with another $100-$200 worth of parts cut like a $1000 saw.
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Dec 20, 2012 02:55
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Stavrogin posted:Does anyone have experience will drill press lathe attachments? I want to try turning, and have a great drill press, and don't want to shell out for a lathe. Seems like a great solution, unless there's something I'm missing about how they work or anyone has horror stories. Eh? I think this exact same question popped up in the Woodworking thread. Here's what's going to happen. 1.Buy drill press lathe attachment. 2.Ruin drill press bearings. 3.Get frustrated. 4.Buy new bearings. 5.Buy Lathe. Don't risk messing up your drill press. These things are like those Alaskan Sawmills, they do a crappy job and end up being hard on the equipment you already have. Try and find someone who has a lathe, or find a woodworking club in your area and give it a shot to see if it is something you want to do and spend money on.
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Jan 8, 2013 15:40
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My old high school used to have these three beautiful metal lathes from the 1950's in their metal shop. They were the kind you would find in manufacturing firm. They were about 8' long and each one would weigh close to 1/2 a ton. They were in great shape and had lots of geared auto feed features that let you make threads and patterns. I remember making a meat tenderizing hammer and the handle was a tapered length of aluminum. The teacher popped in a new bit for me, we double checked the settings on the auto feeds, and made sure the correct RPMs were selected as well. That finished handle was a perfect taper, and it had a near-mirror finish. You couldn't even feel any ridges with your fingernail, and a few seconds with some polishing paper and it was mirrored. Three years after I graduated there was a short dip in trades jobs available and the school board sold them all off. Five years later the trades picked up again in a big way and they had to buy two new ones, which I was told were not even 1/2 the machines those 1950's monsters were. A guy bought all three of them for pennies on the dollar, and turned around and sold each one for thousands.
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Jan 10, 2013 16:20
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I'd pass on both. The craftsman you linked is not a very good one, and the Dewalt posted is also really cheap. We have that exact Dewalt in my shop room at school and the whole thing is shaky/flimsy. Wait for a cast iron table saw from the 1970's or earlier that will inevitably show up for the same price as these two. Those are solid, and you can get parts like link belts and fences that will make them nearly as good as brand new Deltas.
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Jan 25, 2013 17:04
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I don't know how everyone else feels, but to me, the table saw is the single most important piece of woodworking equipment you will own. You can get by with some pretty crappy tools, but nothing will hinder you more than a table saw that sucks. My standard for a good table saw is that it should take two people to lift. If you can lift it yourself, then it's no good. That weight is crucial for the table to be a solid work surface that won't vibrate and shake all over the place, marring your wood and wasting your time. If the table has a nice solid (cast iron) table top, then you can slowly upgrade everything else to make it second-to-none. Old Craftsmen tables from the 1950-70s are great because they are heavy, well made, and there is an entire industry of aftermarket parts that fit them. I know it's hard to wait, but keep posting your craigslist finds and eventually someone here will give you the, "Holy crap, that's an amazing deal, jump on that!"
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Jan 27, 2013 01:15
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I'd try and get the guy to knock a few bucks off the Rigid before thinking of it. My cousin has a rigid table saw and it's pretty good. That one looks to have a nice cast iron top, so you can go from there. The craftsman caught my eye, but it will probably take a bit of elbow grease before you get it to where you want. Check out articles like this one to see what you can do to get them working great.
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Feb 3, 2013 04:27
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I'm going to give the guy the benefit of the doubt and say he typed in "5-9-0-0" thinking that the decimal was already in there like some ATMs are set up, so you'd have to type "1-0-0" to get $1.00
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Feb 3, 2013 18:59
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I'd pull the trigger on that saw. It's a decent saw, for a decent price. If you have the funds, keep searching craigslist looking for the "Holy Grail" of table saws, and if you get it, you can sell the Rigid. Until then, it will be a decent saw that will (with a good blade) give you good results. If you want, you can always throw a new fence on it and a link belt to get the most out of it. It shouldn't be hard to flip it either should you upgrade. First thing I would do would be to take off the legs and mount the unit on a 3/4" plywood box with a removable drawer for sawdust. Have the unit mounted on heavy duty casters with brakes as well. I have a setup like that with my old Craftsman, and it makes things so much easier for moving and dust collection.
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Feb 14, 2013 20:17
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What's a good 11" or 12" chop-saw that has a slide cut capability, but won't jiggle all over the place after a few months and will cut a nice 90 degree? Right now I have two options when cutting 12" and 14" boards. Use my dad's 10" Delta without a slide feature and flip it over and do two cuts, or use the 12" sliding Rona saw that would suck a dick...if it wasn't so freaking wobbly. I'm looking for something Sub $500 (if possible) that will give me a perfect 90 degree cut on a slab of 1x14" oak, and won't be making my life miserable a year from now because those 90 degree cuts have turned into 87 degree cuts, or look like waves. I've been reading reviews on the net, but the only saws that don't have 50/50 reviews are ones that cost $700 and up. p.s. I'm in Canada, so US goons can add another $50-100 on all tool costs.
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Apr 21, 2013 01:42
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I have a 1960's craftsman that has the original 1960's fence. It has to be checked with a square every single time I move and clamp it. It's a little time consuming when doing a large job with lots of different cuts, but once you get into the swing of things, you'll find it becomes second nature and you are doing it within seconds. Hold off on the fence if money is tight and take care of the pulley and belt first. As long as you can lock the fence tight, it will not stop you from being able to do anything you'd normally be able to do on a tablesaw.
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May 3, 2013 20:23
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Just thought that I would warn  goons that they should under no circumstances buy King Canada tools. Here is a list of my grievances with them after teaching a semester of shop in a tech room almost completely stocked with King Canada crap.2 of the 3 Palm sanders cannot be held steady. You need two hands and 100lbs of force to even think of using it. Router cannot hold its depth for more than a few seconds. One gets deeper, the other shallower. Router bits are the cheapest things on this planet! They suck sooooo bad! I don't think there are poorer quality ones on the planet. Biscuit joiner incapable of making two cuts the same depth. We finally had to clamp the drat thing to the shop table top. Belt sander crapped out after a month and a half. It also runs terribly slow for a belt sander. Skill saws are just cheap, not terrible, but not good. 12" planer depth gauge is waaay off. Lasers fell off both of the jigsaws. Best part! $1100 lathe (43") works fine, but all of the handles and bolts for the tool rest setup have broken and stripped. The three parts of the lathe you are going to be using the most have been made out of the cheapest, softest (yet most brittle?) metal ever forged. I'm sure Chinese farmers made better metal in their back yard smelters during the cultural revolution. Add to that lovely customer service and never answering emails, and you have a winning combination.
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Jun 4, 2013 14:04
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kastein posted:I think he was basically saying that it's the cheesiest, crumbly-est pot metal tool part he's ever had the displeasure of attempting to use. That's exactly it. It stripped in the inside where it met the tightening nut because it was very soft, but was brittle enough to crack in half.
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Jun 10, 2013 02:39
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Anyone care to throw in their two cents on the Bosch Axial Glide 10/12" Miter Saws? I'm looking at a Dewalt sliding, and this. I have read reviews on both, and they have not been helpful due to levels of fanboyism equal to "Xbox vs Playstation". Anyone have any firsthand experience with this unit?
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Jul 12, 2013 03:38
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Mr. Yuk posted:Does the Axial Glide mechanism function any differently than the rail slide on a standard sliding miter saw? If not, from comparing brands on Home Depot's website, the Bosch seems ridiculously overpriced. I guess the 14" vertical capacity could be nice for certain applications, but will you use that often enough to justify it being nearly $300 more than everyone else's saws? When I was at HD, they were priced the same. I've been told that the Axial Glide system is more durable (over the long run) and has less side-play than the rail system. Plus it eliminates the 10-12" of space required behind the saw for the rails. Since they were the same price, I was just wondering if anyone has used the Bosch and if it was any better/worse than the Dewalt.
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Jul 12, 2013 11:38
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MrPete posted:I bought the bosch earlier in the year, it's a pretty sweet saw. Will dig out the camera tomorrow and get some action video if you like? No, that's fine. How are the 45 degree cuts? Actually 45? Any side-side play? Anything loosening up? Causing sloppy cuts or wrong angles? These are pretty much the only things I am worried about. I'm pretty tired of using chop saws that have horrible tolerances and never make the same angle twice.
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Jul 13, 2013 02:35
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MrPete posted:I don't know if it's because the motor is a belt drive but when you pull the trigger the saw does have a tendency to jerk upwards a bit. Not a huge deal once you get used to it but has caught me off guard a couple times. So it's not a soft-start motor?
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Jul 17, 2013 03:42
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Francodipshit posted:I've read those get all lovely after a while and are more expensive than cutting a yellow kitchen sponge in half that you buy for almost a dollar each. But I do hear they're really effective for the little while they're in good condition. Depending how heavy you are on the solder, a copper scouring pad can last quite a while.
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Sep 23, 2013 20:30
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Better, but it's still putting side-pressure on your drill press bearings, just a little more even.
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Sep 25, 2013 19:33
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