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iForge posted:That hole looks pretty crusty. Clean it out and make sure its not just a set screw that is full of dirt and poo poo.
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Mar 14, 2011 01:30
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sharkytm posted:Or its an allen set screw. Acid Reflux fucked around with this message at 22:50 on Mar 14, 2011 |
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Mar 14, 2011 22:46
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mrglynis posted:It turns out you cant cut a 2x6 all the way through with a 7 1/4" blade. Who knew. Probably everyone, but hey, at least now I know. You should be able to cut almost completely through two stacked 2-by-whatevers with a 7.25" blade. Even My $49 Ryobi adjusts up to a little over 2.5" cutting depth.
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May 19, 2011 19:52
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I considered that, but then couldn't come up with a scenario in my head that fit. I'm always happy to take a correction where warranted though, so mrglynis has my apologies if that sounded snarky. Wasn't meant to be. 
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May 19, 2011 21:28
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kid sinister posted:Welp, my old 19.2V batteries for my Craftsman drill finally gave up the ghost. Should I replace them with more NiCd/NiMH's, or step up to Li-Ion's? Does anyone have experience with both kinds? I know if did, I'd need a new charger as well. Now that I own a couple of good quality LI-powered tools, I'll never go back to NiCads again. The initial investment might suck a bit, comparatively, but in my opinion the difference in power, run time and battery reliability is worth every penny. I have one of these Milwaukee drill kits (gift from the boss, he purchased one for all us airplane monkeys last year as a thank-you), and one of these little Makita kits (wheeled and dealed with the Mac tool guy, got 'em for $75 after trading in some of my old poo poo) and I use at least one of the various tools every single day at work. I'm honestly surprised that I haven't destroyed any of the batteries yet, but my only frame of reference is all my old NiCad stuff. All these new tools just seem so much more robust. Even the cheap Ryobi cordless tools seem to gain a new sense of manliness when you switch to their LI packs - one newer guy in the hangar has one of their 18V drills, and it's (so far) doing really well for him. I might not have laid out the money if I'd had to pay full retail for my stuff, but I certainly will in the future now that I've seen how much better the LI batteries perform under heavy use.
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Nov 13, 2011 14:14
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dwoloz posted:Those look nice. They both say not to use with stainless though and that's primarily what I'd be cutting. Bah! That's one of those tools where you should probably just suck it up and pay the asking price. Any other tool not purpose-built is going to do the job poorly, and probably break in the process. It doesn't take many broken cheap tools to equal the cost of the right tool. I have a pair of reversible lock wire pliers (for twisting stainless steel safety wire, used a lot on aircraft) that cost me $110. Worth every last penny. I broke three cheap sets at $20 a pop - in less than three months - and finally just gave in. The good ones have been going strong for over four years now, and with their lifetime warranty, even if I happen to break them I'm still ahead of the game.
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Aug 29, 2012 03:45
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Thumposaurus posted:Whatever drill press you end up getting get a uni-bit to go with it. A few days late to the discussion as usual, but I was going to suggest this exact same thing. I cut the holes in my Hammond-style aluminum enclosures with a $15 set of auto parts store unibits and have always been pleased with the results. Center punch the location, set the depth on the press, and get perfect holes every time!
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Mar 30, 2014 20:16
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Super Waffle posted:Is this a good a deal as it seems? M18 RED Lithium Drill/Driver and Hackzall, two batteries, and a carrying case: If you haven't picked this set up yet, grab it fast. The drill and batteries alone are worth that, so it'll be like getting a free Hackzall. I still can't say enough good things about my M18 drill...I beat the poo poo out of that poor thing and it just keeps on going strong.
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Apr 13, 2014 21:42
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thespaceinvader posted:E: I was hoping initially for a mirror finish; right now I'm hoping just to keep it from getting worse again. I probably should oil it or something? Somewhere in the depths of the blacksmithing/metalworking thread, AbsentMindedWelder made a great post about using anhydrous lanolin as a rust inhibitor. I couldn't find it here, of course, but I did manage to find it on another forum. I'm going to be trying it out myself very soon, because now that spring is here, the humidity in my basement workshop will be at roughly 172% and keeping all the tools clean is almost a full-time job in itself. Acid Reflux fucked around with this message at 01:44 on May 12, 2014 |
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May 12, 2014 01:41
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Needs to have some kind of robotic frame that vacu-sucks itself to the wall, crawls around to the right spots, and makes holes in a meticulously preplanned pattern that can only be laid out in their proprietary software/accompanying app.
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Aug 9, 2021 17:20
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Trabant posted:
canyoneer posted:An app-connected suction robot probably has some more lucrative, uhh, non-construction uses. 
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Aug 9, 2021 18:19
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pretty much that but it's open source:
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| # ¿ May 4, 2024 04:15 |
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Vim Fuego posted:
Hey, welcome to the club! I haven't replaced these two AAA's in what I think is over 5 years now. I modified the inside of the battery box so they run in parallel. UNLIMITED POWAAAHHH 
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Nov 4, 2022 22:02
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