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Im still tempted by the tracksaw How do you feel it's better than setting up your own fence out of straight wood and clamping that to the workpiece?
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Jan 28, 2011 04:34
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I'll fulfill the bragging portion of this thread and let you all know I scored a Ridgid worm drive off Craigslist for 40 bucks. Going to officially retire my trusty but ragged Craftsman
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Feb 15, 2011 05:22
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Bench saws like that are fairly mickey mouse and for the price, you can get a fantastic high quality stationary saw second hand. The table on that Makita is undersized, rip capacity is tiny, the fence looks like a joke, doesn't even extend the length of the table. My advice, spend your money elsewhere unless you absolutely need to have a portable job site saw A stationary saw on a mobile base might be a good compromise for your situation Edit: Re: worm drive Instead of direct drive or belt drive, it uses a worm drive, helical gear in an oil bath. This does a few things: changes the orientation of the motor for different ergonomics/sight line, provides more torque/mechanical advantage and its a very durable long lasting drive system. Oh, and it weighs a poo poo ton dwoloz fucked around with this message at 19:11 on Feb 15, 2011 |
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Feb 15, 2011 19:04
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inspire posted:Anyone bought/used the cordless Ryobi +1 range? Thinking about getting a starter kit for an upcoming job. http://www.ryobitools.com/lithium/ By "job" do you mean personal or professional? I ask because I would not put Ryobi in the "professional" category; they're pretty much entry level stuff. Brands like DeWalt, Milwaukee, Makita, Hilti, Ridgid, etc will be more durable and better overall on a jobsite (despite most of these brands unfortunately now being owned by the same Asian mega corporations that pump out cheap stuff too)
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Feb 23, 2011 07:24
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cuntrageous posted:Can anyone suggest a decent soldering iron i.e one that doesnt melt through itself during normal usage. I was thinking maybe something in the propane variety since those seem to get a lot hotter a lot faster. Pick up a Weller with adjustable temperature control. You can find them cheap second hand on eBay or at auctions or maybe Craigslist Keep your tip in good condition at all times; a top of the line soldering iron will still not work well if your tip isnt properly cleaned and tinned
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Feb 23, 2011 20:14
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wattershed posted:I want to build a table. Like, a 10' long table. Something like this: http://imm.io/3VLb Buying a compressor and nailer for this project would be overkill. Building a house, sure; building a workbench, meh. Screws go in pretty fast, wont save that much time with a nailer. Hammer and nails would be just fine too. You'd want to predrill for the screws (and for large nails) and I can't recommend this enough: have both a drill and a driver (impact or otherwise). Makes the process very quick and easy
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Feb 24, 2011 00:11
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wattershed posted:I wanted to avoid the large surface holes because I won't be doing much finishing of it (paint/stain-wise), and I was under the impression that a nail gun would make for a much cleaner entry hole. I haven't found a combination of wood fillers that I've been able to blend to really make the holes "disappear" in past projects. This falls much more in the advanced realm of woodworking but the array of different jointery options, especially mortise and tenon, allow for concealed clean joints that are strong with no fasteners necessarily required (although you could shoot a few brads for good measure) There are also trim screws which typically use square drive and have small heads, easier to patch the holes (although they are not as beefy as structural screws) Also, theres a very popular jig made by Kreg for making pocket holes for screws 
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Feb 25, 2011 04:45
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What's the consensus on leaving air compressors pressurized when not in use: not advisable? dangerous? perfectly safe and OK? I have a small bicycle shop opening to the public soon and was pondering whether Id keep my air compressor pressurized overnight or depressurize it everyday
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Mar 2, 2011 06:44
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Thanks for the replies folks, some good things to think about An automatic drain would be nice, have to look more into those. HF one is only $10 but has some pretty poor reviews http://www.harborfreight.com/automatic-compressor-drain-kit-46960.html Just bought the Makita MAC700 compressor from Amazon ($175 shipped). It was either this or the cheapy Porter Cable pancake and although the PC would've been nicely portable for trim jobs, I think the beefier Makita will be more reliable and quiet (oiled vs oil-less)
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Mar 4, 2011 00:06
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Life without ratcheting keyless chucks is downright primitive. Milwaukee did a fine job on theirs, has always worked great
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Mar 8, 2011 06:36
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I had a job painting an open joist ceiling and bought a $100 Wagner sprayer from the big box on a whim to try it out. Utter piece of junk. The internet is filled with terrible reviews of these things. The spray was just too inconsistent and it SPIT globs of paint. This was after thinning the paint even (which the manual said wasn't necessary) I think the only realistic option for spraying paint is a high flow air compressor and a nice gun. dwoloz fucked around with this message at 07:28 on Mar 30, 2011 |
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Mar 30, 2011 03:32
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Been using a Makita 3x21 belt sander extensively and its dust collection is lame too. Works alright for about 20 board feet then it jams up with dust; have to blow it out with a compressor
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Apr 4, 2011 06:01
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I have a Milwaukee cordless that I use for heavy tree pruning. Works well as long as the blade is sharp and straight. You'll literally get 10 seconds of cutting time out of the battery if the blade is slightly bent; stresses the motor apparently Pallet disassembly via sledge?
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Apr 26, 2011 02:56
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Mid century power tools look amazing too. Ive thought about buying some before but metal housing without a ground seems like a terrible idea
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May 6, 2011 07:30
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If size and weight aren't a concern, go with the bigger beefier 18V. I find my impact driver invaluable and the most used tool in my arsenal; definitely wouldn't skimp on it.
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May 11, 2011 02:55
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Sounds like you need a Sawzall
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May 19, 2011 03:24
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Latroc posted:...the bit will get stuck in the wood. When I attempt to reverse it out, the drill spins while the bit remains stationary. Instead of reversing the drill, after you've plunged the bit in, keep the bit spinning forward and slowly remove it. The spinning bit will clear the hole and allow it to be removed
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May 31, 2011 00:18
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I like them for certain clamping but if you need a lot of force, a standard screw clamp is the way to go
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Aug 1, 2011 22:20
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what is this posted:I build stuff all the time, it's no big deal, and some decent cordless tools have been needed probably for a while. My take on cordless tools is that they are not investment quality. Even the best will eventually crap out or be hopelessly obsolete. I agree buying something better than a Harbor Freight set but $1000 is too much.
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Oct 12, 2011 04:53
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Bought a palm nailer today for some work in the crawl space. I don't know why but driving nails is so much more exciting with a palm nailer
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Oct 23, 2011 05:37
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echomadman posted:Can anyone recommend a Dremel type tool that is not a bucket of poo poo? Gone through a few cheap generic ones and they lasted ok for their ~€20 pricerange but all broke in under a year. Looked at some of the oscillating multi tools? I've been thinking about buying one, they seem pretty handy
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Nov 4, 2011 03:42
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Locking pliers will do the trick also
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Nov 17, 2011 06:41
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The venerable and inexpensive Buck Bros 6 in 1 is my screwdriver of choice
dwoloz fucked around with this message at 02:11 on Nov 18, 2011 |
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Nov 18, 2011 02:08
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Waited a while to pull the trigger on an oscillating multitool but finally did it....why did I want so long?!! I use it all the time now, mostly for plunge cutting wood. Got a Bosch MX25
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Apr 19, 2012 03:59
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philkop posted:Figured I would mirror my SA mart thread here. I run a bike service shop and only use my socket wrench for really stuck fasteners and for crank bolts. 98% of the time I use a cheap set of Harbor Freight open/box wrenches. Cheap, gets the job done
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Aug 19, 2012 23:52
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I'm looking to buy end cut pliers/nippers that can cut flush to the surface (specifically for cutting spokes that stick out too far into a bicycle rim). Having an anvil style cutter and a removable fulcrum bolt would be a plus. Any recommendations?
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Aug 27, 2012 20:45
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Those look nice. They both say not to use with stainless though and that's primarily what I'd be cutting. Bah! These are the specific tool for the job but are 60 bucks http://www.cswestbikes.com/servlet/the-52472/Hozan-Spoke-Cutter-spoke-dsh-end/Detail
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Aug 28, 2012 18:36
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Parallelogram is a neat idea to check layout I haven't done dovetails before but wow that seems like a lot of setup time and fiddling around (especially if you try to minimize tearout). This is straying into woodworking conversation but what do you reckon is the best joinery method in terms of strength to "time to create" ratio?
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Sep 2, 2012 18:00
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Thanks, going to look more into dowel joints, seem the best bang for the proverbial buck. Mattock is quite the handy tool indeed. Can dig narrow trenches, bust up hard soil and roots, lever out large stones, etc
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Sep 3, 2012 02:31
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Ahz posted:I just buy the cheapest multipack of bits I can get. I think for the price of two good bits, I ended up with 100 cheap bits that still lasted me a good 1000+ screws per bit with a Ridgid impact driver. I was going to post the same. The cheap ones do break eventually but they get a lot of good use prior. I don't think it's worth it especially for something so easily lost
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Sep 12, 2012 17:44
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King Nothing posted:My friends made the point that a cordless drill is nice if you're on a ladder or on your roof too. I ended up getting this: Good choice. Always nice to have both a drill and an impact driver Cordless is good for most work, corded for certain tasks (mixing paint or drywall mud, wire brush use, drilling into concrete, etc)
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Oct 6, 2012 00:39
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Combination squares are nice also and are easily found at garage sales or new
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Oct 9, 2012 17:41
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What about a doweling jig? Way more versatile, cheap, can find dowels anywhere or make your own
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Oct 22, 2012 17:14
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powderific posted:I just discovered that running a circular saw + shop vac on my duplex's garage outlet blows a fuse/circuit breaker sometimes. Thing is, I think it's blowing a fuse on the other side of the duplex because I couldn't find the blown fuse on my panel and the power mysteriously returned after a few minutes. Haven't had the chance to ask the neighbors yet but I reeeally don't want to be knocking their power out constantly. Looks like I'll either have to forgo dust collection, get a cordless saw, or run 100' extension cord from inside the duplex somewhere. Ugh. Probably a 15A circuit; having both a vac and saw running would probably trip it. Seems like if you want to do it, your best option would be to run an extension cord (sufficiently large gauge) from a separate circuit and plug one into each
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Nov 9, 2012 05:52
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Daggerpants posted:I'm looking for a table saw, but I didn't want to spend a grand, or get one of those cheapo plastic ones. Is this decent? I'd get it for the price; it's cheaper and better than the plastic portable saws. Once home, adjust everything so it's square and tuned up and you're good to go
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Dec 12, 2012 22:08
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Keep on searching CL. Might be able to find an old Craftsman for around $50 and can then get a good fence for it
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Dec 13, 2012 06:39
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Cutting by hand doesn't take much longer really with a good sharp waxed saw. I think there were more carpenters working on site also An interesting option Sears (and others) offered for their catalog homes in the early 20th century was that you could have all your lumber numbered and machine pre-cut to size then delivered by rail. Pretty neat. Was not very expensive either, about $8000 (inflation adjusted) for a small home; even included paint and nails dwoloz fucked around with this message at 01:55 on Dec 19, 2012 |
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Dec 19, 2012 01:29
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Daggerpants posted:Ok, still trolling craigslist in my area - emailed a few people last week but one was sold and the others all never got back to me. Which of these would be the best relative to price: First one. Leaves you plenty of money to buy a better fence
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Dec 20, 2012 04:09
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Daggerpants posted:So I managed to finally pull the trigger on a 78 (113.298) craftsman table saw. Original owner, along with the original manual for 70 bucks. It has the stamped extensions not cast iron. Looks like they are about 50 bucks a side shipped on ebay, is that worth it? Also any suggestions on fences, belts, or plans for a dust collection / rolling stand would be appreciated. Had the exact saw for a time (before the motor died). I'd recommend keeping the stamped wings; works just fine IMO
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Apr 26, 2013 03:04
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| # ¿ May 1, 2024 23:51 |
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Be careful with the fence on that saw it is crazy innaccurate. The screw down locking mechanism does not lock to a single position, can lock it crooked. Best to take a square to it every time you adjust it and re-lock it until it's correct. More long term solution is to replace the fence but it is rather pricey
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May 2, 2013 20:48
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