Tool thread: hammering on things was a minor secondary function of these tools

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Hobbies, Crafts, & Houses > Tool thread: hammering on things was a minor secondary function of these tools

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dwoloz: Oct 20, 2004; Uh uh fool, step back

Hypnolobster posted:

I've always wondered if replacing cells in dead, tired batteries would be worth it over buying new (often expensive) batteries. I've never remembered to pull one apart when they die, I usually chuck them and then remember the next day.

I have one dead 18v Milwaukee lithium and one dying. Was wondering if I could swap a possibly good cell from one to the other and save it. Not sure how to tell which cells are good or bad though

# ¿ Jun 4, 2013 00:32

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# ¿ May 22, 2024 08:11

dwoloz: Oct 20, 2004; Uh uh fool, step back

Ive been eying the subcompact 12v as well. Does anyone besides Milwaukee do a brushless 12v?

# ¿ Jul 8, 2013 01:01

dwoloz: Oct 20, 2004; Uh uh fool, step back

Ended up buying the M12 Fuel impact driver. Basically it has the same power and runtime as my old V18 I upgraded from but at half the weight and size. The two speed drive is a nice addition - limits torque to a tiny 100 in lbs for delicate work. My only complaint is that it doesn't take 1" bits, needs a holder, but I can live with it. Going to buy the hammer drill now also

# ¿ Jul 15, 2013 18:40

dwoloz: Oct 20, 2004; Uh uh fool, step back

Boogeyman posted:

Any thoughts on this Hitachi 18v combo kit?

Some cockbag got into my garage a couple weeks ago and stole all of my power tools except for my old Dewalt 14.4v drill (purchased back in 2000), which was hiding in the house. Of course, in the process of replacing deadbolts, the loving drill broke, so I'm looking to replace everything. Most of my power tools were Hitachi (corded, not cordless), and I was very happy with their performance. The only thing missing from this kit that I would like is a sabre saw, but I didn't use it that often anyways. They include it in the larger kit, but I can't really justify spending another $300 to get the sabre saw and a bunch of drills/drivers/whatever the hell they are that I'll probably never use. This kit seems to have good reviews for the most part, just wondering if anyone here had any hands-on experience with cordless Hitachi stuff.

And after this, I also get to replace the Porter Cable oscillating multitool and the Porter Cable 2 1/4 HP router kit that they took as well. Both used only once. Fuckers.

My opinion is that angle grinder, sawzall and circ saw should be corded. Sure they're convenient cordless but they will EAT through batteries and quit right when you need them. Can save a ton of money by buying these corded and second hand, then getting a set of cordless drill and impact driver

# ¿ Jul 17, 2013 18:15

dwoloz: Oct 20, 2004; Uh uh fool, step back

asdf32 posted:

I think you've got a problem with the saw or the battery. No one will design a tool that burns through a battery that quick and batteries can't be safely discharged at that rate anyway. I'd try the other batter or consider returning it or brining it to a service center.

My previous comment about going corded was based off of using a Milwaukee cordless sawzall; they really do eat through batteries. I used to use it to break down pallets and I could usually do 1.5 pallets before it quit

# ¿ Jul 21, 2013 03:55

dwoloz: Oct 20, 2004; Uh uh fool, step back

Bought an M12 hammer drill on Ebay (used but in new condition). Defective! drat thing won't spin to full RPM in forward, oscillates between RPMs. Works normally in reverse though. Worse it sometimes stops working completely. Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u6jyShAPz6w (Fortunately seller is refunding)

# ¿ Jul 28, 2013 18:35

dwoloz: Oct 20, 2004; Uh uh fool, step back

Thumposaurus posted:

If you are doing enough projects where a spindle sander would be a time saver it's worth it to make an investment in one. Using a drum in a drill press can side load the bearings and potentially screw them up. I know a lot of guitar builders use the Rigid one Home Depot sells as a way to clean up the sides after routing with a pattern.

A design like this one puts less sideload on the bearings since it essentially adds a lower bearing

# ¿ Sep 25, 2013 18:10

dwoloz: Oct 20, 2004; Uh uh fool, step back

Uncle Enzo posted:

As a person who is actually currently in the market for a combination square, the answer to your question is accuracy. There is a huge difference between something that "looks square" and something that is totally square, so that you can make repeating cut after cur after cut and not have small errors multiply over and over. For example, if you were cutting metal squares to lay flat on a surface, like tiling a floor. If a particular square you cut is a tiny fraction off square, no big deal right? But when your measuring tool isn't perfectly square, you make the same mistake over and over and your tiny error gets multiplied by 10 or 100 or 10000, and all of a sudden you've got a bunch of tiles that even though they are tightly butted together, are clearly not straight even to the naked eye.

And when you're machining or making tight-fitting parts, your errors get much more relevant even faster. A piston in a gas engine, for example, has to be the exact right size and exaclty square, or it will rub the sides and overheat if too big, or it'll let the explosion gases past it, leading to a huge loss of power and probably overheating and I don't even know what else.

So you're exactly right in that that seems like a huge amount of money for something you can buy one that looks just like it for $5 from Harbor Freight. The difference is the expensive one is correct to a tolerance high enough that you'll never run into it not being square, and the cheap one can get you into trouble immediately.

How to check if a square is square and how to correct it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxrCZd7r6qE

# ¿ Oct 5, 2013 04:02

dwoloz: Oct 20, 2004; Uh uh fool, step back

I've been using my M12 brushless impact driver and hammer drill for a few months now and Im thoroughly impressed. The power and battery life are comparable to the previous generation 18v IMO but they're half the weight and size. Can easily and comfortably clip it to your belt. Really like the battery warning feature where it flashes the meter and then if you ignore that, it pauses the motor for a second so you really know its time to stop before you get your bit stuck. The two speed drive on the impact driver is also handy

# ¿ Oct 18, 2013 04:14

dwoloz: Oct 20, 2004; Uh uh fool, step back

I cheaped out first and got the $25 PEX pocket crimper (works with 10" vise grips). It does the job but somewhat annoying to use. It got stolen after a basement break in so I bought a proper crimper that looks like a bolt cutter. Came with changeable heads, 3/8, 1/2, 3/4 and 1". Have done two houses with it and works great. For a cutter you can use a PVC cutter or any other plastic pipe cutter
The best system though is the Uponor style expansion fittings and a tool like the Milwaukee M12 expander. Total overkill for the homeowner but worth it if you're working jobs

# ¿ Oct 25, 2013 02:26

dwoloz: Oct 20, 2004; Uh uh fool, step back

There are the press fits (copper rings) and then there are the cinch clamps (stainless clamps). I went with the press fits for no particular reason other than it seemed common but I think the cinch clamps are easier to clamp in tight spaces (Home Depot has both). The crimper you linked is basically the one I have and they seem all rather the same. Just have to decide crimp or clamp

Cinch clamp tool http://www.amazon.com/Watts-PEX-P-949-Ratcheting-Stainless/dp/B000BO4YKM/ref=pd_cp_hi_2

# ¿ Oct 26, 2013 02:51

dwoloz: Oct 20, 2004; Uh uh fool, step back

Can't stand stainless steel blades; very difficult to sharpen. That said, I can see a place for stainless machetes since not all people take care of their tools like I do. Farm I worked at in Hawaii had abandoned machetes laying all over the place in the rain; these would have been perfect for them.

# ¿ Nov 4, 2013 21:11

dwoloz: Oct 20, 2004; Uh uh fool, step back

wormil posted:

Spade bits... some people hate them but I've always found them very useful and the Irwins I have give me a nice clean hole if I'm careful starting and drill from both sides. The downside is they aren't very straight and want to wobble a bit which is more of a problem in my drill press or lathe.

I found these Dewalt spade bits and they look beefy and have good reviews.
http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW1587-8-Inch-1-Inch-Assortment/dp/B0001LQYJ4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1384799704&sr=8-3&keywords=spade+bit+set

My concern is that the chamfered corners will not leave a clean entry. Anyone used them?

What about forstner bits? They leave the cleanest holes IMO but are not as fast cutting as spade bits

Edit: Doh, already covered

# ¿ Nov 22, 2013 20:00

dwoloz: Oct 20, 2004; Uh uh fool, step back

wormil posted:

That's what I suspected. After looking through my bits again I realized it isn't the Irwins that are wobbly, I had some other brand also and they were the problem.

I would like to have a full set of Forstner bits (not self feeding) that wouldn't break the bank, recommendations?

I bought the cheapy set in a wood box from Ebay (theres a bunch of them, they're all the same). Like this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-16pc-Fo...item2c6e769732. Got mine for $28 and while they are probably not the best, they cut well and are worth it. My most often used ones I have to touch up somewhat regularly

# ¿ Nov 23, 2013 03:20

dwoloz: Oct 20, 2004; Uh uh fool, step back

Any recommendations for safety goggles/glasses that don't easily get scratched up? Im guilty of often not wearing them because the two pairs I have reduce my vision considerably because of how scratched up they are.

# ¿ Nov 27, 2013 04:35

dwoloz: Oct 20, 2004; Uh uh fool, step back

asdf32 posted:

Or if you need the clutch to limit torque. I tried the impact with pocket screws into pine and stripped out 1 of 1. That was my last time trying that.

New impacts now have multiple drive modes; not a clutch but still works. I have an M12 Fuel impact and really like the two drives

# ¿ Dec 14, 2013 06:28

dwoloz: Oct 20, 2004; Uh uh fool, step back

Blistex posted:

Just got an early Christmas present from a friend. Three handplanes.

Left to Right: Stanley Bailey No.6 (smooth bottom), a "Handyman" brand (made in Canada), and a "Sargent" (made in USA)

I know that Stanley is well regarded, especially the older ones, but are the other two worth fixing up? Or are they brands that are just going to be more trouble than they are worth?

Looks like a #5 to me (jack plane). #6 (fore plane) is harder to find and longer. Its useful to have a jack plane and a smoother so fix up the Stanley and the Sargent. Could turn the Handyman in to a scrub plane

# ¿ Dec 16, 2013 01:29

dwoloz: Oct 20, 2004; Uh uh fool, step back

Super Waffle posted:

So I just saw this Hitachi 10in compound miter saw on Amazon for $109

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000V5Z6RG/ref=pe_76900_97133730_pe_epc__1p_7_ti

How good of a deal is this? I found this review but it seems pretty good, especially for the price, but I don't know much about Hitachi tools

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iRJV9Jjy1Gw

Seems a good deal for new but if you check out Craigslist you can probably find a sliding saw for 150-200 (I got a 12" Makita for 150). The extra capacity of a slider can be very handy

# ¿ Dec 22, 2013 06:38

dwoloz: Oct 20, 2004; Uh uh fool, step back

asdf32 posted:

M12 Fuel. Smaller and lighter than 18v. Almost as much power and battery life. And it has a 1/2" chuck so you're not giving up larger bits.

I did exactly this and haven't looked back. Drill and impact get used everyday. I can hook the both of them to my work pants and not feel the weight much. Just got the Hackzall also and its handy. Milwaukee warranty is also top notch, 5 years on most tools

# ¿ Dec 28, 2013 20:17

dwoloz: Oct 20, 2004; Uh uh fool, step back

Sagebrush posted:

So this is...a thing:

http://www.flamingsteel.com/my-vintage-tool-collection.php

Someone's vintage tool collection! There's some neat stuff he has in there for sure. But there's something...off...about the whole thing. I can't quite describe it.

"As you can see I can still lay down a nice bead like I used to years ago."

That dude needs to stop hoarding all the vintage grinders, been looking for one for ages now.

# ¿ Jan 30, 2014 07:04

dwoloz: Oct 20, 2004; Uh uh fool, step back

Squibbles posted:

If you are handy with a soldering iron I think it's not too hard to do yourself? A friend of mine had a nicad pack that was all run down. He popped it open and it was just made up of a bunch of smaller cells soldered together. He went to a local battery specialty place and they sold him NiMH batteries of the same size and he was able to put it together himself. They would have done it for him I think without charging too much.

Ive thought about doing this before. Would be nice to be able to test each cell to see which went bad but I think you need fancy equipment to do that

# ¿ Feb 2, 2014 23:04

dwoloz: Oct 20, 2004; Uh uh fool, step back

I believe that Ive heard you can put a normal blade backwards to make cuts in plastic

# ¿ Feb 3, 2014 04:07

dwoloz: Oct 20, 2004; Uh uh fool, step back

EZ lap diamond plates are a good deal (way cheaper than DMT). You can get smaller plate sizes for less money also. Their superfine is still not fine enough for a finished edge IMO so what I use is a piece of wood coated with a paste of oil and chromium oxide powder. Does a great job and super cheap

# ¿ Mar 25, 2014 20:04

dwoloz: Oct 20, 2004; Uh uh fool, step back

Being the owner of two 80s Taiwanese machines (bandsaw and table saw) I can say the quality has gotten a lot better in recent years (but still not great). Mine are really poorly made but work (kind of the definition of a lot of Harbor Freight)

# ¿ Apr 5, 2014 18:26

dwoloz: Oct 20, 2004; Uh uh fool, step back

Ive heard the saw stops can be inadvertently triggered by wet wood or metal. True?

# ¿ Apr 10, 2014 00:00

dwoloz: Oct 20, 2004; Uh uh fool, step back

I personally would spend the extra dough for brushless

# ¿ Apr 14, 2014 00:29

dwoloz: Oct 20, 2004; Uh uh fool, step back

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/tls/4506219862.html
Lathe, motor and tools for $85. Great deal but not sure I need it

# ¿ Jun 6, 2014 07:01

dwoloz: Oct 20, 2004; Uh uh fool, step back

What kind of spray do you guys prefer for keeping tools rust free?

# ¿ Jun 30, 2014 06:35

dwoloz: Oct 20, 2004; Uh uh fool, step back

Chiming in also that I tried all the different bits for Rotozip on my old paster; they all sucked. Heated up too much and went dull quickly. That said however, still have not found a better method unfortunately

# ¿ Jul 8, 2014 21:41

dwoloz: Oct 20, 2004; Uh uh fool, step back

Little late on the caulk gun discussion but for years I used the cheapo guns and got by. Splurged on this gun one day and haven't looked back. Cheapo guns you have to hit the release if you want it to stop oozing, this gun though you don't.

dwoloz fucked around with this message at 20:36 on Jul 26, 2014

# ¿ Jul 26, 2014 20:29

dwoloz: Oct 20, 2004; Uh uh fool, step back

Sointenly posted:

**Edit: this is actually better than the black Friday deal. I looked again and that was actually an impact and cordless screwdriver, not a drill which is what would be in this combo **

For anyone who was thinking about buying a cordless combo kit, now might be a good time. (Black Friday-ish prices)

Home Depot has a deal going on where you buy a qualifying Milwaukee M12 tool kit (single tool) and receive a 2nd qualifying tool (tool only / no battery) for free. There are a bunch of different tool combo's you can come out with, but the one that caught my eye is the Drill / Impact combination. For $99 you can come out with a 12v drill and 12v impact w/ 2 batteries and a charger. For those that remember, that combo at that price was ond of HD's big black Friday blow outs from last year.

To get that combo, you would go in store, purchse this drill and then request the Impact driver as your free tool. (The drill kit comes with the 2 batteries and charger)
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-M12-12-Volt-Lithium-Ion-Cordless-3-8-in-Drill-Driver-Kit-2407-22/204300706

Here's the flyer that I picked up from my local HD.

Good deal but for those considering, also factor in whether you want brushless (M12 Fuel)

# ¿ Aug 9, 2014 05:55

dwoloz: Oct 20, 2004; Uh uh fool, step back

kid sinister posted:

Yup. Nothing makes a plunge cut like an oscillating tool.

They can be very handy but I've had terrible luck with blades; they just get eaten up. Have had Bosch, Oshlun and no-names

# ¿ Aug 9, 2014 05:57

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# ¿ May 22, 2024 08:11

dwoloz: Oct 20, 2004; Uh uh fool, step back

Mr. Mambold posted:

That really doesn't work any more. The common wisdom in the '80's was avoid things made in Taiwan. I took one look at a Grizzly 8" jointer in 1984, and still have it.

Eh...the Taiwanese stuff of the 80s is better than most of todays Harbor Freight quality level but they were still cheap knock offs of better known tools (Delta, etc). I had an old Grizzly cabinet saw and a Taiwanese 14" bandsaw and they both were ok but both annoying and worth the extra money to me for something that wasn't so fiddly, cheaply made and poorly engineered

# ¿ Aug 8, 2015 18:40

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Hobbies, Crafts, & Houses > Tool thread: hammering on things was a minor secondary function of these tools

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