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I have that exact kit, and it's pretty badass. The hammer drill is heavy, but it's heavy qith quality. Like 70% of the weight is the big fuckoff motor they have in the thing. The Sawzal works great, and the smaller nut driver/screwgun works real well for when you aren't trying to drill 3/4" holes in poo poo. Batteries last approximately forever as well, plus they have a neat little on board charge indicator LED thing. Only downside is no rigid case, it comes with this semi-rigid tool bag thing.
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Apr 29, 2011 07:37
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Yeah, the SawStop lobbyist is a bunch of bullshit. If he gets to have the government mandate that his product must be included in all new saws, he can literally print money. Table saws will probably start at $400, and go very quickly north from there. Push sticks and blade guards are all you really need to keep all but the most determined kind of accidents from happening. It's when you start defeating the safety systems that you start seeing accidents. Or when the table saw never had any safety systems to begin with. Hell, like 80% of stupid table saw related injuries could probably be fixed with the 18" long plastic push stick. Getting your hands closer than 6" to a whirling carbide tipped spinning limb dismemberment disk seems like a really bad idea all the way around. Especially when you have lovely depth perception like I do. Personally, I always treat my personal protective equipment as important poo poo. After the 3rd or 4th time a little big of shrapnel is bounced off your safety glasses, you learn to appreciate them, and your continued ability to see.
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May 27, 2011 02:03
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Latroc posted:I'm hoping that crappy drill bits is my problem but, as I'm a power tool novice, would not be shocked if it was user error. The keyless chuck needs to be tightened more. The bit isn't being gripped hard enough in the chuck, and once it buries itself deep enough, it gets stuck in the wood and breaks free from the chuck teeth. Turn the drill to drill mode, or whatever mode bypasses the clutch entirely, and grip the poo poo out of the keyless check and gun the drill once or twice. The keyless chuck should click over and grip the bit a lot tighter.
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May 31, 2011 04:45
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Sylink posted:I switched to star drive screws and now I don't have to deal with the bullshit that is phillips bits. Star drive is the best thing ever for impact guns. Instead of balancing half your body weight on a Phillips to avoid cam-out, you just rest the impact gun on top of the screw and drive it home. It's retarded how much easier it is. I put my deck together with the epoxy coated T12 deck screws, and it was the best extra $10 I ever spent.
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Sep 9, 2014 20:45
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wormil posted:If you think those things are obnoxious then forget about snowblowers, this might be more your speed. Snow Blowers are amazing. Especially the ones that you can bolt to the front of an ATV. Then it's like those little sidewalk clearing trucks, only even more halfassed!
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Oct 9, 2014 01:33
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wormil posted:Interesting as my train of thought the last year or two has been that I would be perfectly happy with a big workshop with a tiny house in the back. A buddy of mine built a 3k square foot metal building, and in the back corner built a 800 square foot bachelor pad. He can walk from his bathroom to his welder to his woodworking area without putting on pants or going outside. Having seen the thing, I'm desperately trying to figure out how I can do the same thing.
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Nov 10, 2014 10:51
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Sointenly posted:I'd say 95% of what I do at the house, the 12v's are more than enough for. It's nice to have a 18v set around for heavier duty projects, but those are few and far between for me. The only thing I use my 18V cordless for is things that the little guy just can't do, like driving large lag bolts, and stuff like screwing together a deck.
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Nov 18, 2014 04:59
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mds2 posted:I once used my bandsaw to slice up a 10 pound tube of frozen ground beef. The time saved during slicing was not worth the cleanup effort. There is a reason that commercial meat cutting bandsaws are made out of stainless steel, and cost 15x what a regular one does. You can hose the entire unit out with hot soapy water and disinfectant, hose it again with hot water, then go home for the day. The nooks and crannies in a regular bandsaw make me shudder to think how long the cleanup took.
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Jan 20, 2015 18:44
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mds2 posted:The inside was pretty much covered in what I like to call "thawed powdered meat". Could be worse, could be 2 week old rancid meat slime!
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Jan 21, 2015 02:09
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thespaceinvader posted:Briefly considered trying this. The correct response is to determine the tape used to secure the dough hooks, and then machine your own set using your drill press, a series of files and sanding discs, and bodge together a working drill chuck using old parts from your garage.
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Jan 26, 2015 19:13
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therobit posted:World's worst cnc machine. The world's worst CNC machine is a speak and spell with the speaker output tones driving the X/Y/Z axis.
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Jan 27, 2015 05:43
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sharkytm posted:Don't get an electric, they are all poo poo. Something with a Honda motor, and a pump that you can source spare parts is pretty important. Check out Northern Tool. The commercial grade electrics are pretty nice. 3HP 3 phase motor, VFD, and about the same CFM/PSI as the bigger gas washers, only without the whole 'need to maintain a gas engine' and 'requires hearing protection' aspects. lovely thing is you need to be near a 3 phase plug to run it, but that's what 50 ft of extension cord are for.
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Jan 30, 2015 18:30
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Crotch Fruit posted:Festool just wants to get their name in your head by putting the cheapest ($300) power tool they make on TV. "First one's Free* maaaaannnnn" *Compared to the cost of the rest of your Festool habit.
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Feb 2, 2015 21:31
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deimos posted:Also known as: you better have some scrap wood! Pretty much. Just keep a journal handy to write down speeds/feeds for each wood type, router bit, and depth of cut. Otherwise you get to rediscover them each time, which gets old fast.
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Apr 15, 2015 17:37
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King of Gulps posted:Huh. It seems like someone would have done that already Each machine and job setup is unique in how hard you can push it without poo poo going pear shaped. The rigidity of the workpiece setup, the clamping used, the type and size of the endmill or router bit, and the machine itself can make a huge difference in the final product. A lovely little Dremel powered Shapeoko with a 1/8" bit doing 15k rpm will be way slower and less rigid than a bigass all steel CNC wood router with a 2 HP 1/2" chuck router. Same way a CNC conversion of a bridgeport isn't in the same class as a Haas or Fadal machine. Technically they can both do the same thing as long as you keep the speed and feed within the capabilities of the slower machine, but the end result will be loads different if you're trying anything but the most conservative of cuts. There are a number of free tools online, and a few pretty cheap paid tools that will take your machine rigidity, spindle power, workpiece clamping and endmill type into account and calculate a good set of starting speeds and feeds to try. G-Wizard is generally considered the go to source for most of this stuff, and once you get your machine parameters set up, it tends to be pretty nice.
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Apr 15, 2015 20:23
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Crotch Fruit posted:That is pretty impressive but how does he compare to a lawn tractor? I still like my push mower and battery powered electric Nope, doesn't cut on the back stroke. It also requires you to look like an extra from the movie 300. That twisting motion gives you abs of a greek god, but will murderize your back in doing so.
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Apr 22, 2015 17:47
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asdf32 posted:I've used Chrome a bunch and haven't broken one. The issue is that non-impact rated may explode when they do break. Wear eye protection and it might be fine. They go bang and can make a bit of a mess, but as long as you wear eye pro and aren't trying to determine what size socket it is by smell, you should be fine. It's most just super surprising when it happens.
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Apr 25, 2015 07:01
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tater_salad posted:For coreless the m12 seems to be the hotness in this thread.. ive got a lot of old hitachi stuff but as the batteries die out illl probably upgrade to the m12s since they are litium. The m12s usually have good black friday or other sale packages.. usually buy a kit get a free tool. For anything less stressful than sinking big lag bolts into beams or screwgunning a deck together, the little M12 impact bit driver is loving amazing. I have it and a little Wera rapidaptor that fits nicely inside the plastic case that I use for 90% off my home screw driving needs. It also works sweet in the datacenter for racking and unracking gear with a little 6" extension bit. The m18 hammer drill/impact driver kit is actually what I used to put together my 200 square ft deck, epoxy coated star drive screws are worth their weight in gold.
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May 5, 2015 23:59
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Splizwarf posted:Good thing I suppose, since they also cost about their weight in gold. They're like twice the price of the non-star drive exterior deck screws. I would have paid 4x as much just for the sheer convenience of screws that stick to the bit and don't require 50 pounds of downforce to prevent camout.
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May 6, 2015 17:22
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wormil posted:Can't say that I've ever regretted buying a good quality tool, even the ones only used occasionally. I have, many times, regretted not buying a good tool sooner. Pretty much, having a good tool for the task is so much nicer than re-purposing a sorta-close tool, or having a poo poo quality tool to start with.
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May 20, 2015 20:07
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Splizwarf posted:For tinkering, maybe it's worth it. For Serious Business, hell no. It'd probably stand up fine to plastic or soft metals; iirc the main complaints circle around the set being made of really poo poo steel and sometimes coming with burrs, with a poor temper to top it off. Pretty much this. Chinesium is at it's core a recycled metal product. Mix a bunch of scrap steel in a melt furnace, heat it until it's mostly liquid, pour. So you get mild steel scrap mixed with ball bearing, some stainless, and god only knows what. And it's rarely properly degassed or mixed completely, not to mention the alloy contents are generously left to whatever the hell the originals were, maybe minus whatever burnt off or stuck to the flux. Because of the lack of complete mixing, or an alloying ratio that is even mostly known or even makes sense, when you go to give it a batch heat treat and temper, individual taps and dies can end up with wildly varying alloy contents and subsequent tempers. Then you cut most of it away, and try to thread it into something to cut threads, and it snaps like a twig because the overly high carbon and manganese content left it brittle as glass. Taps are one of the few things I'd really suggest people, even first time homeowner types, should spend real money on to get a quality product. Because nothing is as lovely as having your project become scrap due to a broken tap, or having to take a week off from it while you chemically remove the broken tap from the block of aluminum you're working on. Methylethylaldehyde fucked around with this message at 03:32 on May 24, 2015 |
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May 24, 2015 03:25
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Tim Thomas posted:I picked up a set of Duracell flashlights from Costco and they own. I think they've been phased out for the 1000 lumen model, mine were 500, but at $30 for a pair of two with batteries included, it was kind of a no brainer. 2nding those. I have like 6 around the house and they're bright enough and last long enough to be my go-to flashlight for anything that I don't need to bludgeon someone with.
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Jun 2, 2015 01:48
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Hubis posted:Thanks for all the feedback. After searching online, I saw the Ridgid SNR consistently compared pretty favorably (and with great surprise) to some fancy woodworker vacs (Feit Turbo) so I went ahead and pulled the trigger. I have that exact vacuum and it's loving amazing. I use it as a dust collector for a CNC router, and it's a beast.
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Jul 10, 2015 11:14
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sharkytm posted:That means that the FLIR E4 will be $749. http://www.zoro.com/flir-thermal-imaging-camera-80-x-60-flir-e4/i/G5281245/ I did the E4 mod, and it's god damned amazing. Look in the thread they have on the EEblog, some guy came up with some photomanipulation software that reads the raw data, so you can take pics in greyscale, then add the skittles-puke rainbow gradients afterwards. He also got it so you can do tiled panoramas, he took a 3k*2k picture of an apartment building by taking 50ish individual photos and using the software to auto-stitch them all together.
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Aug 1, 2015 00:30
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King Hotpants posted:Plenty of stuff made in China is excellent. It's all about the company ordering the stuff and their standards for quality control. Pretty much this. The only difference between USA built stuff and crap build in China is the QA documents use moon-runes and the spec is probably converted to mm along the way.
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Aug 6, 2015 16:53
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kid sinister posted:So it's time to buy myself a birthday gift. I decided on an air compressor. The problem is that I don't know too much about them. It would be used mostly for auto work, turning lug nuts and filling tires, maybe a nail gun someday. What kind of capacity would I need? I imagine it wouldn't need to be too big for that. I got This guy right here, and it's basically the best thing ever. About as loud as your 20 year old fridge when it kicks on, goes from dead to full in about 90 seconds, and it's got a 5.5 gal tank, which is enough to run pretty much anything intermittently. If 60 gal tanks didn't cost me $600, I'd add one to the system and it would be perfect. I literally can't explain how amazing it is to go from a $150 Harbor Freight special that's loud enough to rattle fillings out of your teeth in an enclosed garage to something you can have a conversation next to without raising your voice. I run CNC gear, air ratchets and a little sand blasting booth with it, and aside from having to wait every minute or two for the tank to recharge, it's been amazing.
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Apr 25, 2016 17:37
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IOwnCalculus posted:
Using a lovely pancake pump to fill a 50 gal cylinder is bad, yeah, but the California Air compressors can run full tilt for extended periods of time. The duty cycle on them is 'you should probably stop for a smoke break if it's been pumping for 2 hours constantly', vs the 'I can run for 3 minutes at a time every 10 minutes' like on the little pancake pumps.
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Apr 27, 2016 02:25
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That's pretty damned awesome and if my twin-tank Costco compressor ever goes, I'd look for something like that to replace it. However:
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melon cat posted:Any recommendations for a good, quiet air compressor? I need something for inflating car tire, a few airbrushing projects, and the occasional nail gun use. But since It'll be getting some indoor use, it'd be nice to have an air compressor that ran quieter than the jackhammer-like Campbell Hausfeld one that I had previously. I have a California Air tools 5510SE, and it's amazingly quiet. It's about as loud as a mid-80s fridge when running, and I can have a regular conversation right next to it without issues. Compared to my Harbor Freight special which would rattle the fillings out of your skull, this thing is amazing. And they're about the same price +- $40 or so.
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Sep 26, 2016 12:31
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coathat posted:Acme tools is doing a 15% off sale today. http://www.acmetools.com/?cm_cr=No+Campaign-_-Web+Activity-_-No+Name-_-HeaderStoreLogo_Content-_-HeaderStoreLogo+AcmeTools 15% off all power tools*! *excludes literally every brand you'd actually want to buy
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Nov 8, 2016 16:32
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TheDon01 posted:My only complaint about corded circ saws is the dang plug end where it meets the ext.cord is always JUUUUUUST long enough to get caught on the edge of the sheet of plywood you're cutting about 6" from the end of the rip. I tore my circular saw apart and made the cord 15 ft long more or less exactly because of that. It's super easy to do if you have even the slightest clue what you're doing, and cost me like $15 in wire and plug end bits. Plus I can avoid using an extension cord entirely on stuff that I'm cutting outside on the tailgate of my truck.
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Nov 11, 2016 22:11
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AFewBricksShy posted:Thanks for the advice. The California Air Tools one was also recommended back in October, but it's $20 cheaper now. I pulled the pin on the steel 5.5 gallon one. I'm in the Philadelphia area, so we'll have an uncomfortable August but it generally doesn't get too humid. Just bleed it every few days and you'll be fine. I have the steel tank one and live next to the ocean and the condensation doesn't get bad if you open the bleed line one a week or so.
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Dec 9, 2016 20:51
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Sointenly posted:Anyone have thoughts on portable air tanks vs small hot dog / pancake compressors? I'm doing a lot of trim work in the house lately, and my wife (and small child) are pretty fed up with the compressor noise. A buddy of mine recommended that i pick up a HF 11 gal portable tank and just tote that around instead. California Air Tools, stupid quiet compressors, come in a variety of sizes and styles, and are about as expensive as a Sears version.
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Feb 17, 2017 01:37
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With a lathe and a mill you could do that in an hour or so. Get a piece of stock bigger than the total part size, lathe it to final diameter and then cut the slot with an endmill on the mill. If you didn't need the slot cut in it because you're going to bolt it to a clamping base, you could lathe that part out of aluminum or delrin in a half hour.
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Feb 18, 2017 21:28
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OSU_Matthew posted:Thanks! That's exactly what I'm hoping to do. Are there any decent cheap Chinese benchtop lathes you might recommend, eg something like this grizzly? You should have a local metals supply place you can go browse for stuff at. Or a plastics supply house, really. Lots of places you can source stuff like this from. Buying metals online is only really a good deal when you need something exotic or something your local place can't order for you.
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Feb 20, 2017 06:02
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kid sinister posted:This is amazing. This is a "workbench" in Manhattan. Only costs him $200/month for the storage space!
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Feb 28, 2017 21:19
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Hubis posted:Oh thanks, instructables! http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Make-a-Homemade-Table-Saw-With-Circular-Saw/ I had this huge ranting review of that thing all typed up, and they wanted me to sign in before posting. Bleh. I'll say it here though, following those instructions will be used as just cause for your insurance company to deny your claim after you inevitably maim yourself using it.
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Mar 21, 2017 17:03
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Hubis posted:The thing that gets me is that this isn't even just some goober uploading his DIY project, it's from a Lifehacker wannabe "tips" blog. If you look at the other articles, there are a bunch for "fixing" or "improving" Li batteries. "Well Done Tips" indeed :burn: Those things are the best kind of Dunning-Kruger style idiot traps. People who have no clue but think they're clever enough to figure it out follow a guide that they don't know enough to call bullshit on, and suddenly! House fire! Why the gently caress would you mess with lithium batteries, outside of maybe exchanging the cells if the pack goes dead? They're basically a road flare waiting to go off. Edit: And the packs are soldered, most lithium batteries you buy won't have solder tabs on them, which means you'll most likely damage the cells trying to get the wires to stick, then the whole thing will short when attached to a load, fun times! Methylethylaldehyde fucked around with this message at 19:48 on Mar 21, 2017 |
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Mar 21, 2017 19:44
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A Yolo Wizard posted:That's what both of his article are about though. It's not THAT hard to assemble a li-ion pack if you have a good iron and a fat tip, but it's definitely a pain in the rear end and I'll never do it again unless I buy a battery welding rig Doing it right without overheating the cell is very tricky to do. There are apparently a number of overtemp failure modes that aren't readily obvious to the person doing the work. Damage to the membrane holding the electrolyte goo in is the most common issue when you overcook one end trying to get the unfluxed tab to stick. Plus do you really think the average person dicking with that actually has a good soldering rig, vs. a $20 Radio Shack one?
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Mar 23, 2017 21:19
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Bad Munki posted:Just FYI, the manual more specifically states 20A peak, that's probably just for a moment during startup. (You called it nominal in the burning house thread, I don't think that's actually accurate in this case.) I mean yeah, it can't hurt to ask over there, but I'm pretty sure you're good to go already. Pretty sure. Maybe. Might burn your house down though. On a squirrel cage induction motor, the peak current is 3-5x for an unloaded startup, and 6-7x for a loaded startup. A blower like that is sorta in the middle, as it's very lightly loaded when still, but heavily loaded at 100% RPM, so figure 5x for peak current for 5-30 seconds as it comes up to speed. Which means the blower probably averages 5-6 amps steady state once it's up to speed, which is perfectly fine.
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May 23, 2017 17:49
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Falco posted:California Air Tools has some smaller ones that are way quieter 2nded, they cost slightly more, but sound like an old fridge running, vs. a paint shaker full of free weights.
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Jun 30, 2017 22:07
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