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themachine posted:In short, should I just go with Milwaukee, a trusted and solid choice, wait for the new Ridgids and see how they are, or the random option, and do something like stay with DeWalt or maybe even Makita? I'm pretty friendly with a Milwaukee/Ridgid/Ryobi rep and the 'company line' is basically: Milwaukee had the first patents on LiIon, they 'invented' it and are a bit ahead in how to use it effectively. Physically there are more internal metal components and a more robust chassis that can be (ab)used daily by a professional. 3-5 year warranties are common. Ridgid shares the LiIon tech, but usually in a more 'ergonomic' package than Milwaukee, most of the same parts but often cheaper metals/plastics. The Fuego line is bad-rear end and I highly recommend their small, one-handed sawzall for you.  It's seriously the best for rehab work if you're in that line. Lifetime warranty is there to back you up. Ryobi wasn't mentioned, but they get the 'has been' technologies from Ridgid. Mostly for the DIY person or weekend warrior type, they're not bad, just disposable. Obviously the rep is biased, but even talking to DeWalt reps they admit they're somewhere between Milwaukee and Ridgid in design, but definitely more towards the Ridgid/Ryobi side in internal electronics/battery.
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Apr 29, 2011 16:04
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Blistex posted:I'm going to be painting my living room soon and I have two windows with trim around them, crown moulding, two entrances with trim as well, and trim all along the floor. What's the best product to use to keep from getting paint on the trim or having to tape for hours on end? I'm looking for first-hand experience, not "it worked on this infomercial". Joining the chorus and saying tape and technique. The foam pads with rollers look neat, but then you realize that by dipping the pad into paint the rollers also get wet and you end up with roller tracks everywhere. Then you're back to putting tape on. Honestly you're best with either the standard blue tape (I've heard good things about the green frog tape, too) and a small, angled Purdy brush and take your time. Make sure to remove that tape as soon as possible, too. I find painting to be 1/3 prep, 1/3 painting, and 1/3 clean-up. None of them being fun, but then what do we expect when the first four letters of painting are P-A-I-N?
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Oct 7, 2011 15:22
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GearWrench 20PC Ratcheting Wrench Set These things, these awesome wonderful ratcheting wrench things right here are worth every penny (and onsale right now). They have some plastic in them and I wouldn't hit them with a BFH but for those tight spots where you can only move it by one click at a time? Essential.
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Dec 9, 2011 16:34
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stubblyhead posted:I've always been rather partial to Stanleys myself. I purchased a Husky 3 pack some years back that had 35, 25, and 10 foot tapes in it. The 35 crapped out after two years of abuse and I took it back to Home Depot and they gave a 40' in exchange no questions asked as they don't sell 35s individually apparently. The 40 works great after 3 years for measuring slabs and other dirty construction work and I know that when it inevitably fails I'll just swap it for another one.
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Feb 15, 2013 18:05
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~Coxy posted:-Most importantly, the algorithm used to decide which frequencies or noises picked up by the microphone to send through to the speakers is not good enough at detecting and cutting out white noise like motors and vacuums, so it's actually making it even louder to your ears. I have the exact problem with my Leights. They're still comfortable and better than no ear protection but I can't use the electronic bits in the shop as it just amplifies motors, dust collectors, etc. Come to think of it I haven't even used them on the range yet.
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Apr 11, 2014 20:05
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powderific posted:Are there any meaningful differences between caulk guns? We just bought a new house and there's lots and lots of caulking that needs to be done. Bathtub, sink, many of the exterior windows, hairline cracks in a cement pad in the back, etc. The biggest difference I can think of is in what happens when you let go. There are models with a thumb release that usually have a "smooth rod" or models where there are ratcheting teeth on the plunger and you have to flip it. I find the ratcheting teeth easier for thicker caulk (construction adhesive) but the smooth plunger is great for White Lightning or whatever household silicone you plan on using where drips/over-run can be annoying.
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Jul 24, 2014 15:16
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Methylethylaldehyde posted:I literally can't explain how amazing it is to go from a $150 Harbor Freight special that's loud enough to rattle fillings out of your teeth in an enclosed garage to something you can have a conversation next to without raising your voice. I run CNC gear, air ratchets and a little sand blasting booth with it, and aside from having to wait every minute or two for the tank to recharge, it's been amazing. This. Our garage is immediately underneath the sleeping areas for my wife and child and I can use my 5510 without waking them. Hell, the garage door opener is louder than the compressor.
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Apr 27, 2016 17:37
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Axiem posted:My last lawn mower finally bit the dust, so I'm looking to buy a new one. I'm quite done with gas mowers, and am totally on board with battery-powered ones. Right now, I'm heavily contemplating either the Kobalt 40v or the 80v model, and picking up the respective line trimmer and leaf blower when I do, to get a battery cycle going. Does anyone have any experience with these? Which voltage would actually be better? After only using gas mowers I'm now using a hand-me-down Ryobi 40V system (Mower + String Trimmer) that came with one 2-AH battery that is only enough to do the back or 2/3rds of the front. I've since gone out and ordered this 5-AH one and it lets me cut front and back in one go (~50 min of run time). I leave it on the second highest setting to cut my zoysia but it can bog down if a wheel sinks a bit but I don't think I'll ever go back to gas. It's too convenient to have a quiet, non-smelly way of mowing the yard, plus it's light enough to carry up into my backyard (the grass area is accessed via steps) and I don't feel guilty starting it up early in the morning as the sound doesn't really make it inside, let alone into the neighbor's house. My front is pretty sloped so the light-weight works out well there, too. Ideally, given the hills and the ~1/3 acre I'd have a reel mower but with the amount of trees in my yard all the little twigs would be murder on the blades. As it is I'm sharpening about once a month because I'm too lazy to pick them all up.
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May 4, 2016 17:23
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Squibbles posted:
Most of our GWS brethren will poo poo on them left and right but I was gifted an Accusharp and I just use that to touch up the blade as needed. Since it's a bent mulching blade it's a little tricky so I may just need to stop being lazy and get the Dremel to do it properly. But I was always told to error on the side of dull with a mower blade so the Accusharp wins out for being hilariously easy to do rather than putting the right bit and blade jig on the Dremel.
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May 6, 2016 16:47
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apparently I should be sharpening my mower blade more often
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Again, I have the most folklore of garden-tool education but I tend to just barely touch up a single ding because I've never bothered to properly balance my blade to make sure I'm removing the same amount of metal from the other side to compensate. I suppose I could just shove a nail through a board and make a DIY blade balance but, again,  . If it's that questionable a new blade is probably $20.
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May 6, 2016 18:16
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Methylethylaldehyde posted:I have a California Air tools 5510SE, and it's amazingly quiet. It's about as loud as a mid-80s fridge when running, and I can have a regular conversation right next to it without issues. Compared to my Harbor Freight special which would rattle the fillings out of your skull, this thing is amazing. And they're about the same price +- $40 or so. Same model here. My garage is immediately below my toddler's bedroom and running it does not wake her up--worth every drat penny.
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Sep 27, 2016 01:36
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Sedgr posted:
It looks so small and tiny, who knew it's made of compressed neutron star?
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Oct 3, 2021 15:08
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The space a 20+ gallon compressor consumes can hold a lot of batteries for cordless tools. I’ve sold off most of my air stuff and will just go battery powered from here on out. The extra weight and size isn’t an issue for my hobbyist skill level.
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Dec 26, 2023 17:40
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Thanks for the reminder re: compressors, just ordered the CAT 8-gallon model, the 8010. There's an 8010A, I noticed, which costs nearly $100 more, in exchange for weighing 38 pounds instead of 48. I guess that makes sense for some people! I have the 2010A and the biggest advantage is not getting rusty water blown everywhere when I drain it.
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Apr 17, 2024 15:10
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