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I've debated buying a ratcheting 6 point wrench set. Then I started wondering if I should go with a flexible/pivoting box end or just traditional straight wrench. I've had a few moments working on my vehicle that a ratcheting wrench would have been infinitely more useful (tight spots) but then where a straight wrench wouldn't have fit on, and a ratchet wouldn't have enough room above. I already have traditional wrenches but I figure if I'm going with a ratcheting set, I may as well go with a pivoting head also for those tight spots right? Pros/cons? I realize Tekton isn't the gold standard of tools but I also can't really justify spending $500 on wrenches. https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-WRN57...ting+wrench+set
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Jan 19, 2018 23:29
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DreadLlama posted:Speaking of batteries can anyone recommend a rechargeable 1.5V AA cell? My trail camera does not like the lower voltage of regular rechargeables. It takes 6, which means it gets only 7.2V and wants 9V. I'm no battery expert but I don't know that any rechargeable (usually NiMH / NiCD) AA does 1.5v, I think they are all 1.2v, which is a difference in alkaline vs NiMH / NiCD. Alkaline usually come 1.5 +/- .1v but they degrade slowly over time and use. NiMH / NiCD batteries don't fall off nearly as bad. I've really bought into rechargeable batteries but there are some things that just need/require alkaline. I figure that if nearly every other battery driven device I own has been converted to rechargeables, one or two devices aren't a big deal if they use disposables especially if their performance relies on it. http://www.rechargebatteryguide.com/batteries/i-require-1-5v-battery-but-rechargeable-batteries-are-1-2v Falco posted:Have you tried Eneloop batteries? They get recommendations on here all of the time. I bought a couple of sets years ago from Costco, and they are still going strong in most of our devices in our house. This. Eneloop batteries are great. Amazon basics batteries are next on my list. They have outperformed so many other rechargeables in my personal experience (including duracell and energizer) that they are the only batteries I buy. Eneloops are made by Panasonic and they make great batteries of all kinds. I wish I could buy a panasonic car battery to replace the one that came stock on my 4runner. It lasted 8 years before it started giving me issues. I've never had car batteries last half that long. Verman fucked around with this message at 21:20 on Feb 14, 2018 |
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Feb 14, 2018 21:06
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I thought the goal of dremel cutoff discs was to see how quickly you can get them to disintegrate.
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Mar 3, 2018 01:10
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Sedgr posted:Speaking of cordless sets. Anyone have any thoughts on this Ryobi combo? I have ryobi stuff because it's what my parents bought me when I got married and once into a battery system It's hard to deviate. It's not contractor grade equipment but it works and its cheap. Good for the average handy hone owner. I've never had an issue with any of my ryobi tools with lots of use in the last 5-6 years. I've only heard anecdotal evidence but if you have a problem with it just bring it into the store and they usually help you out with a replacement on the spot. I've got a drill, 2 impact wrenches (old model was too weak & newer more powerful model is much better) a circular saw, flashlight and a few batteries, the best of which is the 5ah battery with the charge indicator light. I would like to pick up an impact driver though. My house was just broken into a few weeks ago and seeing my contractors driver in action was much better than doing the same thing with a drill. Also you don't that torque kickback that you do on a drill if the clutch isn't set perfectly. I normally don't notice it but I have a broken right hand at the moment. My drill torqued and rotated hard against my broken hand and it didn't feel good at all. It was my fault for not having the clutch loose enough but i was driving 3-1/2" screws into my door frame and needed the power. The driver didn't do it at all. I'll also grab an angle grinder at some point. The nice thing about ryobi is they make a million and a half different tools for the battery system. Some are more useful than others but they are devoted to their system and you can usually find them on sale. sometimes they run limited time deals that are stupid cheap. Plus home depots are everywhere. I don't care for the green color but so long as my screws get driven, boards get cut, hired get drilled and struck bolts get broken free ... I could care less what color it is.
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Apr 18, 2018 05:54
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That green Makita was my first drill ... that thing lasted forever and the only reason I replaced it was because the batteries stopped charging.
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Apr 20, 2018 23:35
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skipdogg posted:I've read the last few pages of the thread, didn't see anything major, but anything terribly wrong with the Ryobi stuff at HD? I'm Joe Homeowner that needs a drill a couple times a year, and a 1/4" driver maybe monthly. If it's crap I'll step up to the Rigid tools with their LSA. My stepfather contractor swears by Milwaukee and I love his M12 and M18 powered tools, but probably overkill for the guy that needs a drill 3 times a year for 10 minutes at a time. Not terribly interested in the Ryobi ecosystem at this point, so it's not a selling point either way. Some of the Ryobi stuff is less expensive than Harbor Freight's tools right now. I'm at the point in my life where I'll spend a bit more for quality instead of throwing out lovely tools every couple of years, but don't want to overspend either. Read page 190. Ryobi stuff is great for the average home owner. For the price, its hard to beat their performance. Home depot also runs a lot of deals and special buys where you can get a tool with a battery for less than the regular price of just the tool by itself. With Dewalt/Milwaukee/Makita/Bosch etc you will likely spend nearly twice the price per tool and they rarely come with batteries. I don't have any personal experience with Rigid but most non-contractor grade tools have very similar features and build quality. My only complaint about Ryobi is that I wish they would make a heavier duty impact wrench (400-500 ft/lbs) but the newer 3 speed 300 ft/lb is an improvement over the last one and it suits my needs for everything but seriously stuck auto fasteners. My drill, driver, saw, etc have all been fantastic for the past few years and I've never had a problem.
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Apr 26, 2018 18:50
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Chillbro Baggins posted:Got the bike all but working -- tubes hold air(amazingly, it's beem sitting for 20+ years), tires are dry-rotter all to hell but will do for the evening, it just keeps throwing the chain, possibly because SOMEBOBY kept twisting the shifter like he was revving a motorcycle the entire time I was dragging it out of the shed, despite being told to stop that at least five times. Derailers usually have little set screws to limit the high and lower travel so that you can't throw the chain off the lowest or highest rear gears. When they're not properly set, that's when they allow the chain to come off the gears. I believe most front derailleurs also have a high and low limit but it depends on what kind of bike and what quality of components are on it. Some cheaper stuff might not have those limit screws. Most Shimano stuff should though. https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/rear-derailleur-adjustment For the hub nuts, most bikes are made overseas which use metric and are typically 15mm. Some kids bikes might run smaller but I can't fathom anything smaller than 12-13mm. When I assembled bikes, literally everything that wasn't a quick release was 15mm from kids to cruisers, mountain bikes to bmx bikes. Some BMX bikes run thicker axles to prevent bending the axle while grinding on pegs and those are 17mm. Some older American bikes like pre 1980s schwinn (known as Chicago schwinns) used standard size fasteners (1/2 - 9/16) and 27" tires instead of 700c.
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May 7, 2018 08:05
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Ahh. If its an older mountain bike, the tires are definitely 26". In the last few years, mountain bikes have gone crazy with experimenting with different wheel sizes and 26" is now considered "old school" but 26" tubes should still be available everywhere.
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May 8, 2018 07:06
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With the broken end being 9' in the air, I would be fairly reluctant to get onto it and try to cut it. It doesn't look very stable or that its attached by very much (if anything at all). My attempt would be to try and limb as much as possible from the end thats on the ground (top of the tree). If you can, start cutting small sections off the top one at a time to see how short you can get it without causing it to move. I would cut off the jagged edge poking out of the bottom of the upper broken piece just to create one less thing to get you. Then I might try to determine lean of the trunk with the piece on top. It seems like it might be leaning towards the photo so the whole thing would fall sideways. Ratchet strap around the top section pulling it towards the camera. Notch the front cut on the fall side towards the camera, then notch the back cut. Maybe possibly putting wedges in there to do it slowly. Just my guess. https://www.treeservicesmagazine.com/columns/tools-techniques/understanding-the-hazards-of-felling-storm-damaged-trees/ That could get hosed so many ways though. If you feel even remotely uneasy about it, I would just pay someone (a licensed professional) the $100 to do it for you, especially if you don't have a whole lot of tree/saw experience. $100 is like 1/5 of most people's emergency deductibles so consider it preventative care and money well spent. Or just go 100% full hillbilly and get a rifle and some tannerite.
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May 10, 2018 18:20
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bessantj posted:Bit of tool care advice needed. I found an old pair of garden shears which are covered in rust and a bit blunt. What is the best way to get rid of the rust and sharpen the blades? Wire brush to remove old residue/rust, white vinegar soak, wire brush to clean them again. I've also had some luck with diet soda and scrubbing with steel wool. Oil the pivot, use some linseed oil or wax on the blades to keep rust from coming back. Reapply every so often. For sharpening, any sharpening stone would work. I prefer a long dual sided rectangle stone with a rough and fine side. I already have one for my axe so its convenient. A few passes of each and mine are usually running smoothly again. If you really want to sharpen them or the cutting edge is in really rough shape, use a file to remove burrs/dents/nicks, and then resharpen it with a stone. You can use a dremel at low speeds without worrying about wrecking them. High speed grinding can ruin heat treating on metal, important for the strength of a cutting edge. Not as big of a deal on shears vs an axe.
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May 21, 2018 21:09
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Cross posted from AA thread ... Had a basically new arcan floor jack (3 ton aluminum) stop functioning while I was trying to rotate my tires. My 4runner was on jack stands when it decided to not want to lock anymore (when you rotate clockwise to allow it to pump). It would just keep rotating as if it were stripped and wouldn't support a load. Yes jacks fail and this is why you use stands/support for safety. Ill be contacting them for a warranty/return. The dumb cheap floor jack I had previously lasted me forever. This new fancy one lasted a half dozen uses. Luckily I bought it through Costco so if Arcan decides to be dumb, Costco will give me my money back.
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May 29, 2018 03:31
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Nanigans posted:I need to fix my spin bike and to do that, I need a wrench (I think?) to take off this nut: Its likely 15, 17 or 19mm metric. You will need a socket wrench and the appropriate socket to loosen that up as a regular wrench won't be able to get in there. Sometimes on bicycle cranks, they are reverse threaded on one side and regular threaded on the other to prevent the weight/rotation from loosening them.
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May 29, 2018 23:21
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Blakkout posted:I just signed a purchase agreement on my first house, and am therefore in the market for my first lawn mower. I went to Home Depot the other day to check out my options in person, and was pretty surprised to find that over 3/4 of their inventory was electric mowers. I didn't even realize that this was a thing, much less the new norm. I guess I've been out of the mowing game for about a decade now. I would suggest a manual push mower or an electric (either battery or corded) depending on how big your yard really is.
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May 30, 2018 22:54
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Pretty much all mowers have gotten infinitely better. Batteries are 10x better but they can be costly. Electrics are nice and light plus they are pretty quiet. Gas went mostly four stroke so no more mixing fuel and oil together. I have the honda four stroke gas mower because i have a large double lot (takes about 30+ minutes to do) and its been one of the more reliable small engines I've ever used. I was reluctant spending $400 on a mower but it starts first pull every time and never gives me issues. The twin blade mulches really well which is good because I'm not going to deal with bagging grass.
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May 31, 2018 03:50
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For those of you with Ryobi stuff, its worth noting that they are running a special for fathers day. Buy the double pack of 2 x 3ah batteries (with the battery life indicator) with a charger for $99 and get a free tool (up to $89 value). In my store, they ran out of batteries but were running another special where you can buy a drill package with 2 x 1.5ah batteries/charger for $99 and get the same free tool promo. https://www.homedepot.com/b/Featured-Products-Ryobi-Days-Free-Select-Tool/N-5yc1vZcjyo This was originally only in store but is available online now. I ordered the batteries online and got the brushless impact driver as my free tool.
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Jun 8, 2018 00:45
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Sointenly posted:1/2" chuck isn't just my porn name anymore... It also describes the Makita 6302H i just bought. I really like hard cases because I can be a little OCD with organization but they are big, bulky and take up a lot of space. Its also harder to bring multiple tools to a site when they are all in clunky plastic cases. I've been leaning more towards bags now so that I can carry tools to where I need them without worrying about a half dozen cases lying around.
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Jul 27, 2018 18:06
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skipdogg posted:Moved into a new house this weekend and spent the entire weekend hanging blinds and ceiling fans among other things. Those new Ryobi batteries are awesome, I picked up the 2 pack of 3 aH batteries with the free tool a few months ago. Used the drill all weekend and it still has 1/2 a charge. Never even touched the second one. I kinda wish I had a lighter weight battery pack though, my shoulder is killing me from having that thing in the air so much. Makes me appreciate the M12 series my used to be a contractor step father raves about Try the smaller 1.3ah or 1.5ah batteries. They usually run somewhere between $40-50
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Jul 31, 2018 18:44
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I have a screwdriver that smells like poo poo. It makes that while drawer smell when I open it. No idea why. One day I narrowed it down to the drawer and then to the individual screwdriver. It's in the handle. My guess is old grease and bacteria ..I washed it in dish soap and vinegar. Still smells. I tossed it and got a new one.
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Aug 3, 2018 20:19
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fakeaccount posted:I'm only now joining this thread so I have no idea if this has come up before or not. Has anyone here used the battery-powered lawn + yard equipment from dewalt or Ryobi? Any reviews on those? I'm looking at a lawnmower, leaf blower, and string trimmer. How big is your yard and how long does it generally take you to do each task? Power/performance doesn't seem to be a huge issue but the battery life tends to be the biggest hurdle for people debating going to battery power. Most of them also seem to have the 40v or the 18/20v options. For mowers, it almost unanimously seems like the 40v options tend to be the best bet in regards to both power and run time. For smaller things like leaf blowers and trimmers, you can get away with the 18/20volt packs so long as they are higher amp hours. The other issue is cost. The batteries are not cheap and you can end up spending much more than gas equivalents but the headaches of dealing with small engine repair should be eliminated. Each person and their use varies so its hard to say wether or not battery is the way to go for your case.
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Aug 20, 2018 19:32
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I believe I bought the cheap ones from harbor freight and they do come with the spring/holders. They're great for 1/4 and 3/8 but they struggle keeping my 1/2" impacts together.
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Sep 6, 2018 23:51
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I built mine in my driveway with only a circular saw, tape measure and a drill. I used 4x4s for the legs and 2x4s for the cross pieces. A used a cut down 4x8 sheet of 3/4 inch plywood for the top. It took a few hours and it was super solid. I used it for 10 years. When I moved, the next tenants paid me $100 to leave it behind. Was it top notch wood working? No, but it was fully functional and didn't shake if I was hammering on it.
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Nov 30, 2018 02:14
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They are much harder to come by these days even in the northwest. Seattle has lost a few just in the last year.
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Apr 25, 2019 17:09
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Falco posted:Oh really? I've always got mine either at the Spirit station near Wedgewood/Meadowbrook or at the marina in Kenmore. I just snagged some from the marina this week. In the last three years (since buying my dirt bike and mower), I feel like the stations in the area offering ethanol free gas has dwindled to nearly 50% of what it was. Now when I go ride, I just fill up on the way to wherever we're going when everyones bikes and spare cans are in the truck. I usually only use a half tank or maybe a full tank of gas in my bike for the day so the full spare can comes back with me and into the mower.
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Apr 25, 2019 19:11
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Note that none of the above should be done in a shop filled with sawdust. ... or if wearing a sweater of any sort of fuzziness. My friend went ablaze in our highschool welding class back in the day. I was learning to tig weld and out of the corner of my eye I saw a giant blue flame and before I knew it he was standing there shirtless and the smell of burning hair was heavy. It singed all of the hair off his torso and some of his eyebrows. Luckily he laughed it off.
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May 6, 2019 22:35
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I dont know why it took me so long to buy an impact but holy poo poo did it ever change my life.
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May 10, 2019 00:22
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Back when I graduated college, I made my own workbench out of a few 4x4s which I used for the legs, a piece of 3/4" plywood and some 2x4s for braces. That thing was so heavy and sturdy. The cost of materials was less than what it would have cost to buy a lovely one from harbor freight and it lasted me forever. The only reason I got rid of it was when I moved across the country and ]unsure of what kind of place I would be living in. My old apartment had a basement with space for each tenant (3 units) and my space was very organized and built up for working on bikes/DIY stuff. They asked if the bench was going to stay and offered me $100 to leave it which I was planning to anyway.
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Sep 11, 2019 23:20
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I was in my highschool metal shop class in the late 90s. We were finishing up our welding test and my buddy at the time had a big knit sweater that was all pilly and spiked hair with gel in it. I was in the welding booth behind him working on my mig welds when all of a sudden I saw a huge blue poof. His sweater engulfed in one big flame. He lost all the body hair on his chest/stomach and we had to put his hair out because the alcohol in the gel made it ignite like gas. He popped his sweater off really fast and we got his hair to stop burning before it was too bad. He laughed it off and shaved his head the next day. Later on in our foundry portion of the class, my casting partners' turn to pour. Pouring was a 2 person job. The device you use to grab the crucible takes 2 people, one on each side and its shaped like a Y. One person holds the skinny end and just holds. The other is responsible for pouring. Its all about communication and make slow and deliberate movements. We grab the crucible and lift it out of the furnace. We were making bench vices so it was a full pot of molten metal and pretty heavy. We get it out, carry it over to the castings and he pauses, looks up and away. He has one of those full body sneezes that drat near causes a seizure throughout his entire body and he drops his end of the crucible spilling liquid metal on the ground. Its not surprising to me that they dont have shop class in schools anymore. I loved every second of it but I'm amazed nobody died. Watching kids lose parts into a bench grinder only to have them shoot across the room.
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Sep 18, 2019 22:56
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I was gifted Ryobi stuff when I graduated college so I've just stayed with it and accumulated tools and batteries over the years and they're all still working great. I am a homeowner/tinkerer/auto person who uses their tools on a weekly basis. My drill is probably the most used tool and its still chugging away after 8? years. I have several batteries (2x2ah, 2x4ah, 2x5ah) and the smaller batteries are nice to keep the weight down on certain tools. Other tools are nice to have the larger batteries like my impact wrench or leaf blower. The inflators are probably next on my list because they're pretty handy when dirt biking and changing pressure where you're riding. The small little circular saw has been surprisingly useful. The batteries have also lasted forever without any noticeable degradation. Honestly Ryobi has been surprisingly good in my experience. I own a few Makita corded tools but rarely need to use them. My only complaint was the original Ryobi impact wrench which didn't have multiple speeds/power and didn't have enough torque to break a lot of auto fasteners. The new tri speed one is great though. The brushless impact driver is sweet. I pretty much use that for everything other than making holes now.
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Oct 24, 2019 19:51
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Platystemon posted:Don’t give the dog a ten-millimetre socket or you’ll never see either of the ever again. You will likely find it in the yard in the near future, but its always going to smell like poo poo.
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Nov 5, 2019 22:47
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Impact anything is worth it. Haven't tried the hydraulic stuff but impact vs regular drill is night and day. My drill literally only makes holes now.
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Nov 10, 2019 04:05
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Yeah, *electronic* shooting muffs are good for shooting and loud bangs but not shop noise.
Verman fucked around with this message at 19:53 on Nov 20, 2019 |
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Nov 20, 2019 18:38
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When they do the double 4, 5 or 6ah batteries for under $100 with the free tool ... Those are the real deals because you can get a brushless tool for Free when you but the battery deals. I think I got the double 4ah combo and free impact wrench Then I got a 5ah battery starter pack (battery and charger) for $50 with a free tool and I got my free brushless impact driver. They run some insane deals and I feel like the free tool route is often better than the combo because you can get specific tools vs some you might not choose and the batteries are usually much bigger.
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Dec 19, 2019 05:35
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Not to derail the tool chat but while on boots I will suggest getting a horsehair brush and boot cream for leather. I feel like my leather boots lived a short life for no reason until I discovered these things. Back to tools (currently ordering a swath of dirtbike parts to replace before the riding season picks back up again). Also installing LED can lights into my garage for better lighting. Now I just need to figure out a cheap solution to my dirt floor of the garage in my rental house.
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Mar 12, 2020 23:27
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Weird. I've never had a single issue with any Ryobi stuff, especially the batteries. I've got a few 18v lithium batteries from 6 years ago that still work great without any noticable lack in performance. I think I have a half dozen batteries and they all work great.
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Mar 16, 2020 20:53
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Using this to the underside of my 4runner would probably cause it to implode. The rust is structural at this point.
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Mar 24, 2020 23:56
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Funny, I too was considering a pressure washer, mostly for cleaning my dirt bike. They are one of those things that I feel like most people but thinking they'll use them more than they do and they wind up sitting in a garage. Thought about buying used but scared of what I'll get.
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Mar 25, 2020 18:31
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Thats called "charm"
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Apr 8, 2020 19:35
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If it was on Zillow or redfin it would be "Carpenter's dream!" Meaning nothing is square, nothing is uniform measurements and all the materials were salvaged from pallets or whatever building was recently demolished nearby. This is my current rental house. Built in 1905 in a predominantly swedish fisherman's neighborhood of Seattle ... Seemingly by hand using rough cut lumber and backwoods engineering. All the fixes over the years are Band-Aids on Band-Aids and I highly doubt most of it is not up to code. I can't wait to buy a house in the next year only to unwrap 50 years of neglect and patchwork repairs.
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Apr 8, 2020 21:21
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I've got an olfa as well, came with my art supplies when I started design school. I love that thing. Fresh blades on a snap and it feels like night and day compared to cheap plastic ones. I have to keep multiple knives around because I've got several work areas and just use whatever is nearby. Carrying knives tends to destroy my pants and I generally hate having things in my pockets.
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Apr 22, 2020 04:59
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| # ¿ May 7, 2024 23:42 |
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In my years of fixing and building things, I really love having the right tool for the job and everything goes smooth. BUT, sometimes you can't just run to the hardware store to get that tool when you need it. I was recently servicing my dirt bike forks to change the seals, clean them out and add new oil. I recently bought a bench vise after years of putting it off because this project is made much easier with a vise. The lower fork tubes can't be scratched meaning I needed soft jaws so I bought some thick angled aluminum and cut/filed it down to fit the vise. The biggest hurdle was needing a special Yamaha tool for removing a cartridge in the bottom with four gaps. Some of the videos I saw made me think I could get by without it. Once I got into my fork, I realized I needed it.  My forks were already stripped down, parts delivered and now I would need to buy something else and wait another week or so to get it, and thats if you can even find it. I saw a video where someone made one by welding some square tubing and a piece of round stock at the end, another forum post showed a guy making one out of a closet rod from home depot. Off to home depot I went. I traced the circumference and wrapped the pipe in painters tape. It gave me something to draw a grid on. This way, I can slowly grind off the grooves in (semi) precise and equal increments. I used a small cutoff wheel on my dremel and a grinding disc to smooth things out. Later I went in with a steel wheel to clean things up.   Success. It worked perfectly, was strong enough to remove and torque everything back together, cost me less than buying said tool from Yamaha/motion pro etc, and didn't require waiting a week or more for shipping. 
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May 5, 2020 02:51
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