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ibpooks
Nov 4, 2005
Personally speaking, I do not buy any tools at HF. Even if you get store brands at places like Sears (Craftsman) or Ace Hardware the hand tools have lifetime replacement warranty. I simply don't want to deal with a cheap, broken or ineffective tool when I'm in the middle of a project. It's a waste of my time which is more valuable than the price of a quality tool upfront. Quality tools will last a lifetime.

HF fills a need in the market for people who need light-use disposable tools. If that's you, then enjoy sending some more dollars to China and some more crap to a landfill. If you're going to actually use your hand tools and keep them the rest of your life, buy quality lines like Channellock, Klein, Crescent, Ridge Tool (RIDGID), some Irwins, etc. There's a reason those brands have been around since the mid 1800s.

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ibpooks
Nov 4, 2005

Iskariot posted:

Chinese companies makes things according to specs and can do so as well as a high-end German company if you hand over enough money.

Except that Chinese manufacturers routinely attempt to build under-spec and hide it, only issuing mea culpas when they get caught. All of the regulatory framework in the country is corrupt and supports the deception in every way they can. The whole approach is how can we do the least possible quality and not lose the contracts (which are negotiated with huge kickbacks and bribes). I'm not saying the USA and European manufacturers are angels, but there is a huge difference.

ibpooks fucked around with this message at 22:22 on Nov 22, 2011

ibpooks
Nov 4, 2005

bhukBC posted:

Saw this browsing Sears. Future of ratchets?

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00931088000P?mv=rr

I have a smaller set of those in a different brand, something like 1/4" - 5/8". They're honestly a pretty good tool. I find new uses for them all the time, so I can only assume that a full-sized set would be equally as useful. The set I have the ratchet can actually accept standard hex drill bits too, so you can pop in a short torx or square or whatever to get to a screw head in really tight places.

ibpooks fucked around with this message at 20:31 on Nov 27, 2011

ibpooks
Nov 4, 2005

kastein posted:

Agreed. It sounds more like a capacitive touch sensor or oscillator/resonance based touch sensor than a GFCI/current leakage system.

Anyone got a used-up cartridge they don't care about? I will give reverse engineering it a shot and find out which it is.

No need. SawStop's promotional literature specifically says it's a capacitive system coupled with a signal processor to detect a charge pattern consistent with flesh contact.

ibpooks
Nov 4, 2005
I'd use the miter saw (out in the driveway) as long as it's not hooked up to any kind of dust collector hose or bag. I'd also probably give it a blast of compressed air to clean out all of that flammable saw dust before making sparks.

Carbide tipped saw blades can cut mild steel (unistrut, conduit, etc). They are pretty common items and not any more expensive than a wood blade in the same size and quality. Just make sure to get one that is rated for the RPM and arbor size of your saw. Example: http://www.amazon.com/Oshlun-SBF-10...ild+steel+blade I will say however than cutting ferrous metals on a high RPM saw can be a little dicey compared to a purpose-made metal saw which usually run in the 2k RPM range.

ibpooks fucked around with this message at 19:40 on Jun 29, 2014

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