Tool thread: hammering on things was a minor secondary function of these tools

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Hobbies, Crafts, & Houses > Tool thread: hammering on things was a minor secondary function of these tools

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Kaiser Schnitzel: Mar 29, 2006; Schnitzel mit uns

Anybody ever used this stuff for compressed air?

http://www.rapidairproducts.com/

# ¿ Jun 14, 2018 00:53

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# ¿ May 7, 2024 22:49

Kaiser Schnitzel: Mar 29, 2006; Schnitzel mit uns

stealie72 posted:

Gas powered string trimmers: is Stihl still king of the mountain? They're what I see hanging on every landscape trailer.

I've got a 4 cycle cub cadet that is kind of a POS since birth (this is my 4th summer with it) and I'm looking to upgrade.

I've had a Stihl for 3 years at least that I use about every other week. I have never gotten it serviced and it about always starts on the third yank. I always use no-ethanol gas, but have never done any maintenance on it at all. It's a neat model where you can put an edger or a blower on the end, and those attachments work great and keep you from having to keep up with more finicky two cycle engines. They're not cheap though.

# ¿ Jul 9, 2018 00:21

Kaiser Schnitzel: Mar 29, 2006; Schnitzel mit uns

Hubis posted:

Someone please explain: https://www.uniontol.com/handbags-c1

These are counterfeits, right?

Given the bad engrish and no contact information anywhere on the site, I would be very surprised if you ever saw your money or your very very very discount tool ever again.

# ¿ Jul 26, 2018 14:04

Kaiser Schnitzel: Mar 29, 2006; Schnitzel mit uns

Sointenly posted:

1/2" chuck isn't just my porn name anymore... It also describes the Makita 6302H i just bought.

My only lament is that it didn't come with a case, it NEEDS a case / bag. How do you guys like to tote such tools, hard case, bag, etc?? I think it would be nice to find something with a little room for a few auger bits also.

My tools that came in hard cases I keep in hard cases, but they never seem to have enough room for the cord and spare blades/bits etc. unless you get everything in just perfectly. I would find a bag for it. My similar Dewalt didn't come with any case and I really wish I had one. Also be careful with corded drills-I broke my hand with mine about a year ago.

# ¿ Jul 27, 2018 22:16

Kaiser Schnitzel: Mar 29, 2006; Schnitzel mit uns

They seem to do fine on some stuff (pallet jacks, chain falls, scaffolding etc.) but I don�t trust anything of theirs with an electric motor to last more than a week or to do its job very well while it lasts.

# ¿ Aug 21, 2018 17:25

Kaiser Schnitzel: Mar 29, 2006; Schnitzel mit uns

I should amend my previous statement-I own two things with motors from Harbor Freight and they�re aren�t terrible and haven�t died yet. Their dust collector is actually pretty good but flimsy, and I have a buffing wheel that spins well enough.

# ¿ Aug 24, 2018 18:21

Kaiser Schnitzel: Mar 29, 2006; Schnitzel mit uns

Bad Munki posted:

I�m about to plumb my shop with air. Should I be concerned about hose/fittings material? I plan on doing two supplies: one clean, and one filtered/oiled. Wondering if I should use a particular hose material, and it looks like I can get fittings/disconnects in brass, steel, or anodized aluminum. Not sure if it matters what I use and why.

This is a great guide by a good company that isn�t trying to sell pipe. https://www.quincycompressor.com/all-about-compressed-air-piping-systems/

I just did a new line in my shop with this stuff https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005FKYRTU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yZdIBb9HAMA46 It�s HDPE (same stuff as PEX water pipe) with a thin layer of aluminum sandwiched in between to give it some rigidity. I did Teflon tape and pipe dope on all the threads and have no leaks. It�s pretty easy to work with too-I ran all three drops in an afternoon by myself, and with all the fittings it isn�t a bad price for a permanent install.

# ¿ Aug 30, 2018 19:58

Kaiser Schnitzel: Mar 29, 2006; Schnitzel mit uns

This from Oneida may also be helpful https://www.oneida-air.com/static.asp?htmltemplate=static/ductwork_tutorial01.html

I got this book from the library one time and it was moderately helpful? https://www.amazon.com/Woodshop-Dust-Control-Complete-Setting/dp/1561584991

I have plenty of space and reached the conclusion that it would be easier and cheaper to just buy a cheap second dust collector for the table saw/future shaper and have one for the jointer and planer than it would be to buy a bigger collector and run all that ductwork. It didn't help that the shop has 20' ceilings in parts and I'd have to rent a lift to hang stuff from it. With more limited space running the ductwork would be easier and you'd probably not want a second collector hogging room. I keep meaning to build a venturi chip separator thing for the one on the jointer/planer since emptying bags is kind of a pain. I use a shop vac for the mitre saw/router table.

I bought a used Jet dust collector from a small mom and pop cabinet shop that closed and they had run all their piping with cheap corrugated black landscape drainage pipe and it seemed to work fine for them? They were really mostly collecting sawdust and not larger planer shavings so that may have made a difference.

# ¿ Aug 30, 2018 23:36

Kaiser Schnitzel: Mar 29, 2006; Schnitzel mit uns

I usually use a shop vac for smaller stuff like that, but even then it is still just cobbling together various pvc bits and cutting up old yogurt containers. My planer has like a 6� port but it is a European 6� dust port that isn�t actually 6� and of course 6� pipe isn�t actually 6� ID or OD so nothing ever fits right. I console myself that it is actually an appropriate place to cover in duct tape.

# ¿ Sep 7, 2018 02:55

Kaiser Schnitzel: Mar 29, 2006; Schnitzel mit uns

bobua posted:

Anyone have experience with bench dog planes or bad planes? I don't want to imply that bench dog is bad.

I've got a new stanley low angle plane and a bench dog #7 jointer. I've flattened the back and honed to 25 degrees with the veritas guide. The cheap stanley is amazing, while the #7 is ruining my life. If the chip breaker is too close, it jams up pretty furiously. There doesn't seem to be a depth setting between no shaving at all, and giant gouged chunk. Any tips? even a lovely plane when setup properly will work for a while, right?

No experience with bench dog, but it can help sometimes to flatten/hone the part of the chipbreaker at the very front where it sits against the iron, right down by the cutting edge. If it's not tight and flat to the iron, chips can get jammed up in there and make a mess. On cheaper/older planes sometimes they don't machine that part and it is just cast and very rough down there. Making sure the frog (I think that's the name of the part? the angled bed the iron sits on-you can adjust it with the screws you see when you take the iron off) is in the right place-try moving it forward and backward to get the iron in the right place in the mouth, and make sure it is really screwed down tight. Another possibility is the sole not being flat, but I'd be surprised if that had happened to a new metal one. I've had the problem with old wooden planes before though, and it can make you get either no chip or huge tearout if the bottom is convex. It's sacrilege, but with wooden planes you can just take the iron out and buzz them over the joiner lightly when they warp!

# ¿ Sep 12, 2018 00:13

Kaiser Schnitzel: Mar 29, 2006; Schnitzel mit uns

AFewBricksShy posted:

Is there some sort of a "hand powered" C&C machine? Basically something that I could stick a router bit on to and using wheels have it move around the piece very accurately? Or have the table move around a stationary bit?

In essence I want the C&C machine setup but I want to guide it by hand not plug it into a computer.

Old school duplicating carving machines sort of do this. You trace one thing with a stylus that a router copies in three dimensions. You could probably rig up an XY table on an old overhead pin router too. Or make your own CNC gantry frame and have cranks on all the leadscrews instead of connecting them to computer controlled motors. Tons of parts for that kind of stuff on eBay/Amazon. I think the duplicating carver is probably your best bet for an off the shelf solution, but may not do exactly what you need-you�ll probably have to make something up.

# ¿ Sep 28, 2018 14:22

Kaiser Schnitzel: Mar 29, 2006; Schnitzel mit uns

In a similar vein, I got this thing for my big DC and it is great for $35. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001399USU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_EO5VBb9TTD20Z

# ¿ Oct 11, 2018 19:46

Kaiser Schnitzel: Mar 29, 2006; Schnitzel mit uns

Ben Nerevarine posted:

I'm in the market for a replacement power drill so this is timely.

Between Milkwaukee, Makita, and DeWalt, does it mostly come down to brand preference? I'm not invested in any one brand as far as batteries go, so is DeWalt the clear winner here?

If you need something that will last, then Makita or Dewalt. Milwaukee makes many wonderful things, but in my experience battery powered tools aren�t one of them. You can about hammer a nail in with a DeWalt drill and it�ll be fine. Everything makita does is A+ too in my experience. If you just need something occasionally around the house, ryobi or whatever is on sale that day will be fine.

# ¿ Nov 1, 2018 19:10

Kaiser Schnitzel: Mar 29, 2006; Schnitzel mit uns

B-Nasty posted:

Well, they literally invented the reciprocating saw, and they own that trademark 'Sawzall'.

The heavy duty Sawzall�s (but not all the sawzalls) and a decent bit of their heavier duty/commercial stuff is still made in the USA, but the brand is owned by a Hong Kong based company that also owns Ridgid and Ryobi and most all their battery operated stuff is made in Asia. Not to say it�s not perfectly decent, but it might not be the Milwaukee you think you�re buying.

# ¿ Nov 1, 2018 22:12

Kaiser Schnitzel: Mar 29, 2006; Schnitzel mit uns

Blistex posted:

A friend of mine wants to get some hand tools and has a $200 gift certificate for Lee Valley, and was wondering what that would get him. I told him, "in the door". He was looking at a hand plane, but those are well out of his price range, and I was instead telling him to lean towards a Chisel set and sharpening stone.

Questions:

1. What set should he look at that they offer. (Lee Valley Calgary) http://www.leevalley.com/en/home/page.aspx?p=47397
2. What sharpening stone would be best? (preferably both the chisels and stone come in under $200 or close to)
3. Where the hell do you get a decent hand plane for under a month's grocery bill? (possible Calgary goons) I've been looking for used Stanley planes in the usual places online, but I think we've passed the point where they can be had for a reasonable amount, and none of the pawn shops have any. Is there a #4 style plane that people would recommend that won't break the bank? I've been reading reviews on LumberJocks, but if it isn't $500+ then the consensus seems to be "crap"

I�m seeing the American site so I dunno if all this will work in CAD, but I think the best bang for your buck on chisels/stones would be a soft and hard 8�x 2� Arkansas oil stone and 1/4�, 1/2,� and 3/4� Narex classic bevel edge chisels. There�s a set with a 1� and you save a little, but you don�t really neeed a 1�. He should have some leftover for a Narex 1/4� and/or 1/2� mortise chisel too. Oil stones are a little slower, but I think they�re easier for a beginner-no flattening, they last literally forever, and they�re hard enough you won�t accidentally gouge them if you don�t know what you�re doing. Looks like you might have to order Arkansas stones to store, but I think they�re a great value.

For metal planes, I�ve had good luck with used Sargent planes. They�re not as collectible as Stanley�s and are usually (or at least used to be) a good bit cheaper. Sometimes they have super pretty rosewood handles too. Lots of people say they�re awful, but I�m fond of Union or other maker transitional planes with the wooden sole and metal working bits. Roy Underhill uses them all the time and he knows his trade and knows imperfect tools can do perfect work. They�re usually reaaaally cheap, much easier to get the sole flat, and make a great jointer/jack plane that you won�t be too upset about if you drop it.

# ¿ Nov 9, 2018 22:31

Kaiser Schnitzel: Mar 29, 2006; Schnitzel mit uns

Butch Cassidy posted:

I hate my corded jig saw and want to replace it with another tethered unit. Makita, Dewalt, or other?

Bosch makes a great jigsaw. The JS572 and JS470 were until recently made in Switzerland, but are made in Hungary now it looks like. The ones you buy at big box stores are probably made in China or Malaysia and still decent enough, but those two models are really great saws that will last forever.

Makita also always makes great stuff, but I have no personal experience with their jigsaws.

# ¿ Nov 12, 2018 21:08

Kaiser Schnitzel: Mar 29, 2006; Schnitzel mit uns

Mr. Mambold posted:

I've had 2 DeWalt jigsaws and each one was defective in a different way. And these were TotL tools supposedly.

I love Dewalt cordless drills and chop saws and just really don't love any of their other tools. I think every brand has their strengths and weaknesses.

# ¿ Nov 13, 2018 00:51

Kaiser Schnitzel: Mar 29, 2006; Schnitzel mit uns

stealie72 posted:

Maybe I'm polyannaish, but I've cut hundreds of trees, including some big ones, and as long as you have a decent grasp of how gravity works and know the basic safety rules and cutting techniques, you will be ok. Always have an escape route, pre plan for what might go wrong, and wear your PPE.

I am always amazed at how a 2� thick wedge can lever over an 80� tree and make it start falling. Watching a big tree fall is always so serenely beautiful in a way as it slowly leans just that little bit and then gains more and more momentum until it finally crashes down and then everything is quiet again.

# ¿ Nov 19, 2018 00:01

Kaiser Schnitzel: Mar 29, 2006; Schnitzel mit uns

BraveUlysses posted:

whats a good brand/model of orbital palm sander? i've got an old as hell quarter sheet Porter that my dad gave me

any reason to get a quarter sheet over a circular pad sander? seems like sheets of paper are cheaper but a minor PITA to swap out sheets compared to the self adhesives

I�ve had good luck with Ridgid ones and I�ve used good Bosch and Milwaukee ones too. We used to have a Ryobi one I bought on sale for like $20 and it was great until it died. The Ridgid ones seem to be a bit shorter and have a lower center of gravity which helps with sanding edges or trying to sand inside a drawer opening or something. I don�t really like the DeWalt one I have-it�s fine for sanding paint, but it�s too jerky or something for fine finish sanding.

Pneumatic one�s are the poo poo if you have a big ole compressor and don�t mind listening to it run all the time. They last basically forever even in a production setting.

# ¿ Nov 26, 2018 21:16

Kaiser Schnitzel: Mar 29, 2006; Schnitzel mit uns

The area of a 6� sander is actually about a third larger than a 5� sander and they really do sand a ton faster. For sanding big flat surfaces a 6� is great to have around, but much less versatile than a 5�. If you just want one, get a 5� imo.

Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 19:13 on Nov 28, 2018

# ¿ Nov 28, 2018 19:10

Kaiser Schnitzel: Mar 29, 2006; Schnitzel mit uns

Mr. Mambold posted:

Your math is correct as a 5" has approx. 19.62 sq." and a 6" has approx. 28 1/4 sq". However, that presumes that they have a third more HP/amps also, which translates into torque. Generally, they didn't whenever I was A/B'ing them, so the notion of getting more done via extra sanding surface is illusory.

I hadn�t thought about a difference in power, but looking at my sanders, my 5� Ridgid is 3A and 7,000-12,000 rpm (it actually says �no�-number of orbits?) and the 6� Ridgid is a two handed beast that�s 4.4A and 4000-10,000 rpm. I guess make sure the motor on a bigger one is stronger-I could see with a pneumatic one how a bigger one might just get bogged down and not actually sand any faster.

# ¿ Nov 28, 2018 19:29

Kaiser Schnitzel: Mar 29, 2006; Schnitzel mit uns

Another quality Harbor Freight printing job-

Works great though!

# ¿ Dec 12, 2018 20:58

Kaiser Schnitzel: Mar 29, 2006; Schnitzel mit uns

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

Cool, thanks! Any opinions on brands/models?

I like a 4x24� because it sands faster, but they�re also more expensive and the belts are trickier to find at big box places (on the other hand, the belts they sell at big box stores are lovely anyway). I have this Makita https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000223IY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_N.AjCbR7Q3HG0
It is the best belt sander I�ve ever used but probably overkill. I used to have a Porter Cable that was good too. A belt sander is one of those tools you want to be heavy because the weight of the tool is doing most of the work. Whatever you get, get some of this graphite fabric to go between the belt and the platten-it makes a world of difference. Keeps the belts from digging into the wood and helps them run cooler and last longer. https://woodworker.com/4-wide-graphite-canvas-mssu-919-610.asp?search=Graphite&searchmode=2

I�d get a portable/handheld one- you can always clamp it upside down and have it as a small stationary sander too. Stationary edge sanders tend to kick up a ton of dust and not have very good dust collection.

Using a belt sander to sand a flat surface is a bit tricky to get the hang of at first, but it�s the fastest way to sand by far.

# ¿ Dec 28, 2018 06:32

Kaiser Schnitzel: Mar 29, 2006; Schnitzel mit uns

SouthShoreSamurai posted:

I see this a lot, which always makes me wonder - why doesn't the manufacturer just include something like this with the sander?

Probably because it would cost like 3 more dollars. It doesn't sand as aggressively with the graphite stuff on either-maybe if someone was trying to sand down a deck or floor (or debark a tree?) or something they wouldn't want it?

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

Sounds like anything smaller than that would also be contra-recommended, too? IOW 4x24 is the smallest size that you find reasonable to use?

For trying to get a nice flat surface on large wooden surfaces, I'd stick with 4x24, but it looks like hardly anyone actually makes 4x24 belt sanders anymore?! Porter Cable seems to have discontinued their's-about all I can find is that Makita or this: https://www.rockler.com/triton-t41200bs-10a-4-x-24-belt-sander. It's only 3x21 but the Porter Cable 352 VS looks like what a belt sander is supposed to look like. Klingspor makes great belts.

For a woodworking drill press, the two main things to think about are the depth of the throatand the stroke length/spindle travel. I'd look for something with close to 4" of spindle travel so you can drill a nice straight hole through a 4x4, but you might not need something that big. Drill presses are pretty simple machines so as long as it's not a total piece of junk you should be fine. Like iForge said, a drill press would be a good candidate for a used machine- you can probably get a big old floor size delta or Powermatic for what a new benchtop import would cost.

Mr. Mambold posted:

3"x21" should be banned, I'm not kidding. There's not enough surface area to keep consistently flat.

Same. I'm not a Bosch fanboy, but I recommend their 4"x24" unreservedly. I've had mine for 30 years. The dust bag looks like an old bull scrote, but that thing will keep hogging long after I'm done.

I used to use a Bosch and loved it, but when I went to get one of my own I found out they don't seem to make belt sanders anymore :saddowns:

# ¿ Dec 29, 2018 23:24

Kaiser Schnitzel: Mar 29, 2006; Schnitzel mit uns

SawStop-We want to save everyone�s fingers by making sure that nobody else can save any fingers.

# ¿ Jan 29, 2019 04:27

Kaiser Schnitzel: Mar 29, 2006; Schnitzel mit uns

Bandsaw=Bestsaw. Hard to hurt yourself unless you really try (I�m going to cut my whole hand off tomorrow, I�m sure)

And drat that looks painful. Must have been a fairly fine tooth blade? I�ve always been scared a coarse blade would just start ripping chunks out and make an awful nasty cut.

# ¿ Jan 29, 2019 21:31

Kaiser Schnitzel: Mar 29, 2006; Schnitzel mit uns

n0tqu1tesane posted:

Oooh, can I join in on the "finger chewed up by saw" club?

This was my table saw's doing.

Sup buddy?

I was ripping very narrow mouldings and didn't have much of the blade sticking above the work or this could have been much worse.

I also sanded two of my fingernails off one time on a huge edge sander! Luckily, I don't have any pictures of that.

Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 01:47 on Jan 31, 2019

# ¿ Jan 31, 2019 01:44

Kaiser Schnitzel: Mar 29, 2006; Schnitzel mit uns

Bad Munki posted:

My dewalt was doing 3/8x5 lag screws into treated 6x6 posts with little to no trouble, for comparison. I know dewalt isn�t a magic brand or anything but I�ve been very happy with that driver.

e: Oh yeah, that�d be pre-drilled, if OP didn�t do that, good luck. I have driven 3/8x3-ish without pre-drilling because Reasons, though, and it wasn�t bad.

It may not be a magic brand and supposedly other brands have better batteries, but DeWalt drills and drivers are indestructible in my experience.

And yeah, hammer drills are for drilling holes in masonry, impact drivers are for driving screws and bolts and stuff.

# ¿ Feb 5, 2019 02:40

Kaiser Schnitzel: Mar 29, 2006; Schnitzel mit uns

It has that wonderful rosewood smell that I can only really describe as smelling like cake? Real Ceylon satinwood smells like that same smell mixed with coconut rum and it's amazing.

I don't care how bad it is for me, I will huff that poo poo to an early grave.

# ¿ Feb 13, 2019 03:03

Kaiser Schnitzel: Mar 29, 2006; Schnitzel mit uns

I have this thing on a trash can between my planer and a cheap harbor freight DC and it does great separating the big chips.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001399USU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0XXzCbT85Q52P

# ¿ Feb 15, 2019 21:11

Kaiser Schnitzel: Mar 29, 2006; Schnitzel mit uns

Buy that Unisaw. It's twice the saw of the Ridgid for only 50% more. The more modern ones like I think that one is have a place you can stick a riving knife and it's very quick/easy to remove.

# ¿ Feb 19, 2019 04:13

Kaiser Schnitzel: Mar 29, 2006; Schnitzel mit uns

Grumpwagon posted:

Double post, but I've expanded my search area a bit and found a couple of seemingly promising options. I aware that they're different classes of saw, but I don't know enough to have a preferred type of saw. I suspect they'd both do what I'd need them to.

This is what I see in my head when I think Table Saw: https://milwaukee.craigslist.org/tls/d/waukesha-delta-10-table-saw-3-phase/6795806472.html
Looks well used, but the table appears to be in great shape, which bodes well for the maintenance of the unit.

This one is a bit further away, but it comes with more stuff, and a Unifence. It's obviously less powerful. https://appleton.craigslist.org/tls/d/neenah-delta-platinum-edition-table-saw/6820859381.html

Sorry for the dumb questions, and thanks for being my sounding board!

The contractor�s saws like the second one are decent enough job site saws, but not at all comparable to a real cabinet saw. The motor mounts are kind of flimsy and they just don�t have the oomph and stability of a cabinet saw. It has gotten a lot cheaper and easier to convert 3phase stuff to single phase recently. If you can take advantage of it (or just have 3 phase) you can get some deals-my current saw is an early 2000s 5hp 3ph unisaw in great shape I got for $500. That�s a much older unisaw though, and might not be as easy to fit a riving knife to.

It also looks like it�s in a commercial shop which either means it has a) been meticulously and well maintained and rebuilt when needed, or b)been used hard and abused by a bunch of morons and run for years with never a squirt of grease or a new belt or bearing. It can be hard to tell which is which sometimes. Ask to see whatever you find under power and listen for any vibration or rattling/squealing. Standing a dime on edge on the table of a running cabinet saw is the old test-a good one should have very little to no vibration and the dime should stand up.

# ¿ Feb 19, 2019 17:04

Kaiser Schnitzel: Mar 29, 2006; Schnitzel mit uns

I actually did decide to test my own advice and my clumsy fingers couldn�t get any coin to stand up on its edge with saw running or not.

# ¿ Feb 19, 2019 18:46

Kaiser Schnitzel: Mar 29, 2006; Schnitzel mit uns

Grumpwagon posted:

Alright, I think the 3 phase conversion is a step too far for me at the moment. I'll keep the search open for cabinet style saws, and thanks for the explanation.

I've been starting to read the owwm forums, and lumberjocks. Any other recommended resources where I could learn more about what to look for?

In the mean time, what other brands are good to look at? I'm obviously looking at Deltas. I've heard good things about old Craftsman, but I don't know how much of that is legit and how much is just reflecting on what the brand is now. There have been several Walker Turner units I've seen, although from the reviews (well, ok, forum posts) I've read they're maybe a step back?

I'm happy looking at this older battle tested stuff, but just to make sure I'm not missing anything, is anything newer decent & in my price range? It feels like to get a decent newer saw, you're looking at $1300 and up, which would be nice, but I like being married.

Owwm is a tremendous resource, but unless you like working on machinery as much as you like cutting wood, I'd stay away from the really old stuff like the old Craftsman's or Walker-Turners or Wadkin's or whatever. They might run forever, but its just as likely a worm gear might break tomorrow and nobody has made parts for them in 50 years. Not to mention the lack of safety features like Mambold said. The knowledge base and forums on woodweb also have lots of (badly spelled) knowledge and opinions too.

JET and Grizzly are both decently made in Taiwan (I thiiink JET woodworking stuff has always been import/Taiwanese stuff, but there may be some really old domestic stuff out there) and should be a good value used. Unisaws and Powermatic 66's are sort of the iconic cabinet saws-there's lots of them floating around used and parts are fairly available. Powermatics seem to command a premium because of all the gold in the paint, but they are great saws. You can probably find a Unisaw for $5-700 and a PM66 for closer to $1000. The fence is important too-Biesemeyer style ones are the best, but the newer UniFences are okay too. General was a Canadian manufacturer (now, like Powermatic and Delta and sadly even Oliver they mostly import the better quality East Asian stuff) that made good stuff if you see it available. If you want something new, Grizzly/Shop Fox are probably the best bang for the buck but yeah, it's gonna cost $1300.

# ¿ Feb 20, 2019 02:18

Kaiser Schnitzel: Mar 29, 2006; Schnitzel mit uns

Harry Potter on Ice posted:

Ok I'm going for it today. If I never make a good post again it's because I cut steel and got brain damage thanks to jeeves and kid sinister (if anyone can think of something I'm missing about using a heavy duty angle grinder, particle respirator, goggles and ear pro for cutting rusty 1/16th steel please quote this and say Stop)

You�re gonna be fine. Long sleeves or welding leathers will help with the sparks. If you have a face shield/welding mask that helps if the disks blow up (they like to if you�re cutting a curve especially). You don�t really need a respirator but it never hurts.

# ¿ Mar 1, 2019 18:17

Kaiser Schnitzel: Mar 29, 2006; Schnitzel mit uns

Sockser posted:

This jointer popped up on an auction site and I could snag it super cheap. Unfortunately, this photo is the only info I�ve got and it�s not a good photo

There�s a public preview for the auction next Thursday but if anyone can figure out what this is/if it�s worth my time before I spend 40 minutes driving over there to look, that�d be rad

Yeah maybe fine if it�s super cheap but you never know until you see it running. Bearings might be shot, motor might be shot, tables might not be flat etc etc etc. I don�t think jointers with beds that short are really all that useful unless you�re just doing small stuff.

# ¿ Mar 21, 2019 19:49

Kaiser Schnitzel: Mar 29, 2006; Schnitzel mit uns

This is my fancy phallic push stick. I made it in three minutes and it cost $0 and it works great.

I use those pad things running thin stuff on the jointer sometimes except I use some rubber grout/masonry floats.

# ¿ Mar 26, 2019 22:09

Kaiser Schnitzel: Mar 29, 2006; Schnitzel mit uns

The sole redeeming quality of Bradford pears is that they have some very nice carving wood in them.

# ¿ Mar 30, 2019 02:17

Kaiser Schnitzel: Mar 29, 2006; Schnitzel mit uns

Big box stores/the internet are great and all, but lately I�ve come rely a lot more on small local distributors for tools. You may pay a little more, but they usually have better quality stuff and if something goes wrong there is an actual human who knows who you are that you can talk to. The people that work there even actually know something useful about the product they�re selling too which is a refreshing change from the employees at Lowe�s.

Mr. Mambold posted:

I'm a bit surprised at how many dibs for turning projects are getting put on that tree. It carves too, eh...hmmm...it's also great firewood, I understand.

Yeah it�s very fine grained like cherry but not as hard or splintery and has a nice even texture that�s great for carving. It used to get used a lot for woodcut printing as it holds very fine details well and it�s suuuuper stable. Gets a nice pale orangey fruitwood color over time too.

The wood itself is actually fairly strong, they�re just very prone to growing with narrow, weak crotches that split.

Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 15:40 on Mar 30, 2019

# ¿ Mar 30, 2019 15:37

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# ¿ May 7, 2024 22:49

Kaiser Schnitzel: Mar 29, 2006; Schnitzel mit uns

Butch Cassidy posted:

California Air question: Will the 8 gallon model run a Dynafile alright or would it need a portable tank added to get anything done?

It looks like that compressor only makes like 2 CFM, best I can tell the dynamite eats 4 CFM. You�re going to need a bigger compressor or run it for a minute and then wait a minute for the compressor to catch up. Most air tools that run continuously use quite a bit of air compared to like a nail gun.

# ¿ Mar 31, 2019 16:46

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Hobbies, Crafts, & Houses > Tool thread: hammering on things was a minor secondary function of these tools

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