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ImDifferent posted:horror That's loving terrible. A plus is that Deering is really awesome about their customer service. If you hit them up, they should be able to get you squared away with no problem. Who did you order it through?
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Sep 26, 2012 20:24
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Good to hear that worked out. I've heard good things about the banjo hut, but never ordered anything from them.
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Oct 3, 2012 17:42
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There could be a number of things wrong with it. I use compensated bridges on my banjos to help to eliminate the ubiquitous 3rd string funkyness. Are you able to get it to pitch confirmed by a tuner, and the tuning slips over time? Is it binding up in the bridge or nut slots? You can shave off some graphite from a pencil and rub it in the slots and it will make the string move much smoother. Really, there's a bunch of different things that could be wrong with it, and the 3rd string tends to present problems pretty often. <edit> This thread here will cover a lot of the common responses you'll get to this problem: http://www.banjohangout.org/archive/121239 Search Google for banjo 3rd string intonation, and you'll get a better idea. Loaf32 fucked around with this message at 18:43 on Nov 12, 2012 |
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Nov 12, 2012 18:37
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No problem. On another note, to all the banjoistas, Gold Tone is doing a deal where you can pick up a zero glode nut from the for $9.95 (to cover shipping). I got mine the other day and installed it myself using only my teeth (read: dremel and sandpaper). Really improved the tone of my Goodtime. Highly recommended! Go to http://www.zeroglide.com/ and use code ‘FREEZG’.
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Nov 16, 2012 19:26
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Pufflekins posted:Thats what I figured, definitely avoiding that shop now. Thanks guys. Go in there and ask for mandolin lessons. Maybe they'll offer you banjo lessons instead.
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Nov 21, 2012 22:32
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That thing is an incredible piece of work. You should upload a sound file so we can hear it.
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Dec 10, 2012 17:55
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TapTheForwardAssist posted:The Savannah I've seen in the US, and the SB-100 is nothing fancy but seems to get decent reviews. It's okay. That was my first banjo, and I would definitely recommend saving a bit more and getting a Deering, Gold tone, or. . . well, just about anything else. For twice the price of that Savannah, you'll get something 5 times as good, but if you're limited to its price-point, it will do. I think the best feature of mine is that it's tough as nails, but that doesn't do much for you when it constantly goes out of tune, has poor intonation, and the drat co-rod and tailpiece won't stay tight.
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Dec 26, 2012 17:57
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niff posted:i am a lot more interested in old time/clawhammer banjo than i am the bluegrass style. is it important to pick a banjo geared to one or the other, or does it not make too much difference up until the higher-end stuff? It's way easier to get a banjo that is geared to the style of play you're after, but you can alter your setup on a reso banjo to play clawhammer (or just keep the reso on if you want). Pat did a good video that will cover what you would need to know for converting: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r1ZIzQ1xucE&list=PL11ABED0632ED8C8A Doing setup alterations for a banjo isn't near as involved as that for electric guitars or whatever, so don't be scared to dive in on that.
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Dec 26, 2012 22:57
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Planet X posted:Oh man thanks so much for posting this. I took the resonator off of my Goodtime, and was looking for guidance as far as setting up the instrument for clawhammer. Planet X posted:Hey Loaf, I can't tell because of the blurry picture, but if the "upper bridge" you're referring to is off, that's the nut (right guys?) at the neck. You may be able to glue it back on. Is it broken? The bridge, the true bridge, the wooden piece, is supposed to just sit on the head, held down by string tension. I've never heard of a nut up by the headstock that's loose. I think it's zamiel who had the nut question. Yeah, the bridge is supposed to float free on the head and be held in place only by string tension. You can do the same with the nut, though they're generally secured with a single dot of super glue. zamiel posted:Appreciate any feedback, would prefer to do it all myself if possible as my local music store is full of assholes. Found a beautiful old flute at an estate that needed repadded, couldn't find a makers mark though. Owner did nothing but talk down to me and insult me the whole time I was in there. I really don't get why there are so many jerks in music stores. I usually count on the people being shitheads if I'm going to a new store. At any rate, the nut is broken, but can be reglued with superglue. The big thing to look out for are the slots that the strings sit in. If those are chipped out, they are fixable; all you need is to pack the slot with baking soda and drop a small amount of thin (guess what?) super glue to set it up. You ideally want to use the very thin super glue they sell at model train shops. After the slot is solid, you'll want to use a small file or saw blade (or set of welding tip cleaners) to re-slot the nut. Here's a cool stewmac article on maintaining equal depth: http://www.stewmac.com/freeinfo/String_action_and_setup/i-1811.html This should be a perfectly playable tenor by the time it's set up (provided the neck is straight), but right off the bat I can tell you you'll need: New tenor banjo strings (4 to a pack; not to be confused with a traditional 5-string, nor a 4-string plectrum banjo) New bridge Either repair the nut, or order a nut blank and cut a new one. Use the one you have for measurements. Tuners look fine, and you may want to get a bracket wrench and read up on tuning and tightening the head (skin/plastic part). Make sure you measure the brackets first. There are a number of different sizes. That's all I can think of right now, but I'm kind of out of it. Now, get it set up and play some jazz! Loaf32 fucked around with this message at 03:32 on Dec 27, 2012 |
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Dec 27, 2012 03:27
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Might be something to check if you're using nylgut strings, but most banjos have flat fingerboards instead of radiused. I don't play fiddle, though, so I don't know.
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Dec 28, 2012 23:12
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Pufflekins posted:Are real basic/cheap Washburns worth it? I know Washburn makes good high end guitars, but I don't know how their low end stuff is. I'm looking at an open-back 5-string. The ones I've played have sounded pretty bad, honestly. To be fair, this is only shop experience, and not extended plays.
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Dec 29, 2012 20:25
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Pufflekins posted:Bad in what sense? This would be a learning banjo for me. It would serve as a learning banjo, but you would likely outgrow it pretty quickly. My biggest problem is that the sound was too thin. In retrospect, it could just be how they were set up, or maybe it's all in my head, but I didn't care for the tone at all. Unrelated, I started messing around with double C tuning with the D tuned to D#. Has anyone else here tried this? It sounds pretty drat cool.
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Dec 31, 2012 01:23
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big business sloth posted:I've been really interested in getting to learn the banjo but I guess I'm going to have to wait a bit. I've decided I like the sound of tenor banjo for Irish reels/etc and that bowed banjo video is incredible, but even a $300 instrument is out of my price range. Everything is really poo poo any less that there, huh? Just keep an eye out on craigslist. I see banjos go for crazy low prices all the time.
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Dec 31, 2012 22:14
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big business sloth posted:Thanks for those tips. I checked CL and amazingly some guy has a Rouge that I could trade for (I have a dinky fiddle I'm not particularly attached to). I'll check ebay though using those other terms cause I know Rogue isn't exactly a bastion of quality. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Harmony-Reso-Tone-Tenor-Banjo-4-string-/170965245213?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27ce529d1d I'd probably grab this, but ask him for better pictures of the neck so you can see how straight it is. If at all possible, have him lay a straight-edge on the frets to see if they're decently level. The only thing bad I see about this deal is that it's as-is, but he will accept returns in 30 days.
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Jan 1, 2013 00:00
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Ah, so there are. I thought that was the BiN price. As far as heads go, I always wait to see what head is installed before I go for anything new. Plastic heads last a good long while so long as you don't crank the hell out of them and cause them to blow out. Realistically, a quality plastic head should last you years. Now, if the head that is installed can't get tuned up properly because it's been stretched out of whack (very uncommon in my experience), or it's separating from the hoop, if the frosting is worn off and you want it to look new, etc, etc. . . Then it's time to get a new head. Heads are pretty cool like that; they'll be pretty clear about when they need changing. It's probably a matter of preference, though; if I'm looking to buy a banjo, I make sure to have money set aside for a renaissance head and a compensated bridge.
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Jan 1, 2013 03:27
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Brass thimbles if nylon strings (or even steel if you like the sound). http://www.thejoelhooks.com/ Pingpong balls work wonders from what I hear. http://www.johnbalchmusic.com/picks.html
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Mar 21, 2013 21:40
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| # ¿ May 5, 2024 05:55 |
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That's pretty drat awesome. I'll have to give that a shot since I lost my thimbles.
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Mar 23, 2013 06:41
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