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hayden.
Sep 11, 2007

here's a goat on a pig or something

quote:

e: I'm not sure that a totally autonomous UAV is outlawed, either, here is a link to a contest which has them compete:
http://www.sparkfun.com/products/10435
I saw that too, but they're just flying around a building so it would still be in line of sight and not even a quarter mile away.

Thanks for the feedback everyone, more is always appreciated too.

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CrazyLittle
Sep 11, 2001





Clapping Larry

Vitamin J posted:

When someone tells you that you can't fly out of LOS or above 400 feet they are referring to the AMA guidelines published by the FAA as the AC 91-57.

I believe the 400-foot rule is also the minimum aircraft ceiling for FAA regulations.

Sypher
Feb 4, 2003
I was always a fan of the bushman RC FPV videos, and this Christmas, I have reached my limit. My little cousin got an Air Hog Hawk Eye Helicopter from Santa! Since I am the tech savvy person in the family, I was appointed to being the one to figure out how to work and teach him to use it.

After a couple minutes, I had the trim down and was doing flybys during Christmas dinner. I am now 100% in love with RC flight and NEED to get one for myself. After skimming this thread, I am quite lost and unsure of where to begin. I think I want to start out in the helicopter department before moving to fixed wing aircraft. What I am looking for, is a nice/cheap outdoor helicopter to learn on with the possibility of adding on FPV equipment later on.

The Blade 120SR that was posted seems like a decent candidate. Are there any other models I should be looking at? What about battery life? The Air Hog seemed to need charging after 5-10 minutes of flight. Is this pretty standard for RC helis? Is there a way to upgrade for longer flight times?

Can the Blade 120SR handle decent winds for a novice? My living space is quite small, so I will be mainly using it outdoors. Should I just skip the idea of outdoors for the moment and pick up a smaller model like the MSR?

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!
The MSR is awesome. I own one, and I am still learning to eek the best from it. It's NOT easy to fly. At least to fly well. the MCX flys really well, even hands off.

Sypher
Feb 4, 2003

Nerobro posted:

The MSR is awesome. I own one, and I am still learning to eek the best from it. It's NOT easy to fly. At least to fly well. the MCX flys really well, even hands off.

I am definitely looking for something that is a bit more of a challenge to fly and some decent ability to maneuver.

My only concern with the MSR is that it seems to be strictly an indoor flyer. My apartment is 450 square feet with relatively low ceilings. I am not sure how even the smallest helicopter will handle inside. Does the MSR have good enough turning radius for such a small airspace?

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!
The MSR is HARD to fly. Don't start with it. The MCX will happily fly in 450 square feet, and you will have fun flying it there. It is fun to fly in 100 square feet, much less 400.

Get the MCX. It's worth the $80. Once you are sure you like it, the $80 for the bind'n fly MSR makes more sense.

Vitamin J
Aug 16, 2006

God, just tell me to shut up already. I have a clear anti-domestic bias and a lack of facts.
Yeah I agree the MSR is tricky if you're new to helis. If you start with an MCX you'll probably spend less money than you would on replacement parts for the MSR.

I've flown my MSR outside a ton. Stock is ok in mild breezes but for wind you need to do some mods. A bigger battery and trimming 1-2mm off the blades works well.

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!
The MSR with the high speed on the dual rates is a real screamer. It's nearly as fast as my novus cx.

Sypher
Feb 4, 2003
Thanks for the input, guys. I think I will go with the mcx and maybe upgrade to an MSR/SR in the summer!

Would going from a mcx to an SR be a smooth transition?

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!

Sypher posted:

Thanks for the input, guys. I think I will go with the mcx and maybe upgrade to an MSR/SR in the summer!

Would going from a mcx to an SR be a smooth transition?

Smoother than the long series of crashes sure to ensue starting with a conventional heli. ;-) it won't be perfect, but it's a heck of a lot easier.

Burn the Priest
Apr 20, 2010
I had an SR and wouldn't recommend it to anybody regardless of their level of experience. That was my first heli ever (yes I went straight to collective pitch helis right from the start :iamafag: ) and it gave me lots of trouble. CP helis really benefit from a computer radio which the SR doesn't have, and the lack of one made fine tuning the heli difficult. The tail is another weak point. It's nice in that it's very easy to fix but the little tail motors are finicky and wear out quickly. They don't produce enough power and subsequently cause the tail to wag a lot. That made learning to hover difficult for me.

If you're planning to move on from the mCX I'd recommend the mSR or mSR X. If you want to go even further, the mCP X is the next best option and eventually you'll be able to handle 450 size and larger helicopters with ease.

Burn the Priest fucked around with this message at 19:37 on Dec 27, 2011

helno
Jun 19, 2003

hmm now were did I leave that plane

Sypher posted:

5-10 minutes of flight. Is this pretty standard for RC helis? Is there a way to upgrade for longer flight times?

That is about standard. If you want longer flight times get a fixed wing platform.

If you add a bigger battery in a small helicopter you increase wieght and then need more power to lift the bigger battery.

IsaacNewton
Jun 18, 2005

The SR doesn't offer much over the mSR, it could get you used to seeing something bigger flying in the air but it wont teach you much otherwise. The mCPx is what I would also recommend. It's sturdy as gently caress for what it is (collective) and you can learn a lot with it.

helno posted:

That is about standard. If you want longer flight times get a fixed wing platform.

If you add a bigger battery in a small helicopter you increase wieght and then need more power to lift the bigger battery.

You can also get much longer flight time with nitro helis, but then we're talking about 500+ sized collective pitch helicopters. If you are not ready to fly those, 5-10 minutes is PLENTY long enough. Your brain need a rest after a little bit anyhow. It's quite demanding when you begin flying them.

IsaacNewton fucked around with this message at 19:48 on Dec 28, 2011

ease
Jul 19, 2004

HUGE
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XRtAM2BG3LI&feature=youtube_gdata_player

I've been subscribed to this kid for a while. This video he put a pusher prop one of his mrs. Kinda cool

Micr0chiP
Mar 17, 2007

ease posted:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XRtAM2BG3LI&feature=youtube_gdata_player

I've been subscribed to this kid for a while. This video he put a pusher prop one of his mrs. Kinda cool

Nice quad manouvers, i'll subscrive also.

I'm subscribed to this one http://youtu.be/Ls10nMHhQbE

It has some FPV videos and reviews of lots of RC stuff.

Sypher
Feb 4, 2003
Ok. I just got back from the store. After much inner debate, I decided to go with the msr X. This thing is so much fun! I think it will be a long long time before I am able to do more than just basic hovering techniques, though.

It is definitely a bit difficult to fly; however, im just taking baby steps and enjoying every minute of it!

Haptical Sales Slut
Mar 15, 2010

Age 18 to 49
About a year ago I stumbled upon the Syma S107 on Amazon and could not put it down for almost two months. I then began researching what the next 'upgrade' would be, and ended up with an mSR. I almost gave up on the hobby as it actually took some time to master, and it ended up sitting in my closet for 6+ months. I recently started flying it again, and with a little patience I quickly mastered it and realized I required more poowwaaarr. $500 later I have an mCPX, DX6i and the Phoenix RC sim.

The jump from the mSR to the mCPX is much like the jump from the Syma to the mSR in terms of difficulty. I was almost sad at first because it felt like I was starting all over again, but if what the hobby shop and random internet forums tell me is true, mastering the mCPX means you can fly any full size collective pitch heli. The thought of doing this gives me an R/C boner.

My ability to hover indoors is heavily dependent on how I've configured the DX6i. This is where the Phoenix software shines: changing all the many many settings in my tx to see how it affects handling. The Phoenix software does not simulate learning to hover, unfortunately. Every heli I've tried hovers perfectly without any input aside from the throttle, which is a pretty big disappointment. But since that's the first thing you learn, it doesn't seem to matter in the end.

I wish I was this passionate and motivated to learn something useful, like programming, or getting a networking cert, but no, I just had to buy that Syma...

ease
Jul 19, 2004

HUGE
I have realflight 4 and hovering is hard.

hayden.
Sep 11, 2007

here's a goat on a pig or something
Especially if you add some wind to it, which makes it even more realistic.

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!
hovering is a pain. It's the most difficult thing you'll learn to do.

Haptical Sales Slut
Mar 15, 2010

Age 18 to 49

ease posted:

I have realflight 4 and hovering is hard.

Is that because of wind or other external values you set, or is it built into the physics or something?

I just added some random weather effects in Phoenix and it definitely adds a neat dynamic, but it doesn't feel like it accurately simulates why hovering is hard. Maybe I just need to gently caress with my settings.

ease
Jul 19, 2004

HUGE
I really don't know what's behind it.

The coax models and training CP models are easier to hover, but still move around a bit on their own with no wind.

The 3d models are much different and move around a lot more. I've never flown a real CP heli, but I've figured out how to hold a semi stable hover in this game just by messing with expos on my dx7 and trying to be proactive with inputs and also a bunch of practice. It's definitely frustrating, so I think it might be somewhat realistic.

ease fucked around with this message at 17:55 on Jan 8, 2012

hayden.
Sep 11, 2007

here's a goat on a pig or something
I got my AXN Floater in the mail today, but I've never really assembled a plane before and have no idea what I'm doing.

Under the wings, there's a piece of foam the length of the wind that covers the tube that you insert through both wings. You can see it in this photo:

(not my picture)


It's the section of foam that looks slightly different on the underside of the wings.

Do I tape this down with something like packing tape, or glue it down? Gluing it down seems like a bad idea if I want to take the servos off. I also assume I don't actually glue the rod to the inside of the wings either (unless I wanted the wings permanently attached, which I don't).

Also thanks again to CrazyLittle because I bought literally exactly as you posted it in this thread earlier. Will hopefully have the maiden flight (and my first real life aerial RC flight) this weekend. I used a simulator a ton a few years ago and am pretty good at piloting games with a controller in general so I have hopes that it will go well.

hayden. fucked around with this message at 03:54 on Jan 11, 2012

Sypher
Feb 4, 2003
I have been having so much fun with my mSR-X! I finally have got basic hovering and Alieron/Elevator down. I am still a bit overwhelmed with the idea of using Yaw to do full circles, though.

My biggest complaint so far is charge time vs flight time. I am looking to get some more batteries and a more efficient way to charge said batteries. I have already drained the batteries on the included charge station. At this rate, it seems charging the heli alone will be quite expensive. Are there any alternatives such as wall chargers that I can look at? Also, what types of batteries should I be looking at? I came across a website that noted these as the best battery; however, they seem to be in high demand and thus always on back order.

Also, any pointers on easily incorporating yaw during flight would be appreciated. The heli seems to do some strange things once I start to yaw while flying forward or aileron.

ease
Jul 19, 2004

HUGE

hayden. posted:

Do I tape this down with something like packing tape, or glue it down? Gluing it down seems like a bad idea if I want to take the servos off. I also assume I don't actually glue the rod to the inside of the wings either (unless I wanted the wings permanently attached, which I don't).

I think securing that foam with packing tape would be fine. Can you take the wing off and use one long piece over the whole wing? You could glue it with some weak glue if you wanted as long as its foam safe. I'd say little dots of something like elmers would be ok so you could pop it out later. Nothing at all wrong with packing tape, though. I keep a roll in my little RC tool box.


As far as gluing the spar... that depends on how secure everything is with out glue?

Does it just sit in there loosely, or does it snap in or something? The whole point of it is to keep the wing from flexing, so if the wing is still flexing and arcing away from the spar you'd need to glue it or secure it in someway. Some wings have two piece spars that slide into each other so you can break the wing down, but some wings have a single spar you glue.

As far as your first flight, you will crash at some point. Bring stuff with you to make repairs for small damage at the field. Usually I have zip ties, packing tape, pliers, screw driver, knife, rubber bands and a few of extra props. I flew the poo poo out of my super cub, which was my first plane, and often fixed at the field when I'd break something.

A pusher prop plane like that is a great suggestion for a beginner. My most common broken part was my prop/gear box when I was learning because the nose takes all the impact usually. Maybe put a layer of packing tape on your nose just in preparation for that. I always tape my leading edges too, or at least the outside front of the wings but you don't have to. Good luck!

ease fucked around with this message at 15:19 on Jan 11, 2012

hayden.
Sep 11, 2007

here's a goat on a pig or something
The styrofoam covering the spar falls right off if there's nothing holding it in place. This plane only has a single spar that goes into both wings, but the wings themselves are not connected before assembly. The wings do lock together in a sort of flimsy way once inserted into the fuselage, but I plan on solving that similar to how it is in the above photo (rubber banding them together).

Here's an image that probably makes it more clear:


And here's a little better photo of the styrofoam covering the spar, it looks like this guy just taped it but it's hard to believe that little tape could prevent the entire force those wings will have when doing something like a loop. I guess I'll go ahead and give tape a try for now:



Thanks for the help!

hayden. fucked around with this message at 21:46 on Jan 11, 2012

ease
Jul 19, 2004

HUGE
Whats that little piece of metal on the trailing edge in the notch? Is that a magnet?

Vitamin J
Aug 16, 2006

God, just tell me to shut up already. I have a clear anti-domestic bias and a lack of facts.
What I did with my Floater Jet to keep the wings removable but have a rigid spar was to glue one half of the spar into one wing with Gorilla Glue. Then I applied glue to the other wing's spar cover and wing slot, put a piece of tape over it, then slid the greased up spar into the slot, pushed it all tight, and let the glue set. I greased the spar with dielectric silicone grease.

hayden.
Sep 11, 2007

here's a goat on a pig or something

ease posted:

Whats that little piece of metal on the trailing edge in the notch? Is that a magnet?

Yes, one of the methods of keeping the wings together is magnets, though I've heard they don't do much and add a lot of weight. Rubber bands definitely seem like the way to go. I'll post pictures of what I make, but it's essentially this:





Vitamin J posted:

What I did with my Floater Jet to keep the wings removable but have a rigid spar was to glue one half of the spar into one wing with Gorilla Glue. Then I applied glue to the other wing's spar cover and wing slot, put a piece of tape over it, then slid the greased up spar into the slot, pushed it all tight, and let the glue set. I greased the spar with dielectric silicone grease.

Is the purpose of the grease to make it slide more easily or to prevent the setting glue from sticking to the spar?

Vitamin J
Aug 16, 2006

God, just tell me to shut up already. I have a clear anti-domestic bias and a lack of facts.
^^To keep the glue from sticking to the spar. I also held my wings together with a rubberband system like that, works great!

Have some weather:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XTOWZvHNFzU

hayden.
Sep 11, 2007

here's a goat on a pig or something
Maybe you can help me with this too, VJ: what are all the plastic rings that came with it for? One of them fits inside one side of the prop and I assume is supposed to go in there. What are all the others for?

I wish this came with instructions.

ease
Jul 19, 2004

HUGE
Hey VJ, what happened after the battery fell out ?

referring to this : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XdQ1fjnwTtk&feature=related

hayden.
Sep 11, 2007

here's a goat on a pig or something
Got the wings secured. I realized I'm a complete dumbass and didn't attach the control rods to the control surfaces before gluing (also shouldn't have used glue in retrospect) the plastic bits the control rods attach to. Had to use pliers to bent the wire to get it in and hosed up the plastic bits a bit. Oh well, learning experience.



Looks like I shoved a lincoln log into the wings. That's essentially what it is, just made of 1/2" dowel. It seems like the bands might snag on stuff during landing so I guess I'll try to make a little space for them between the wings and the fuselage hole.

hayden. fucked around with this message at 03:38 on Jan 12, 2012

helno
Jun 19, 2003

hmm now were did I leave that plane
You were probably ok with just having the wings held in by friction.

Unless the wings are really really loose there is ussually no need to strap them in.

Its nice to see a beginer who actualy follows advice and gets a trainer to start with. Enjoy flying it.

I just got back from supervising eight 12-17 year olds flying vapours embers and MCXs in a gym. They all had fun and only one plane was in need of repairs by the end of the night.

Vitamin J
Aug 16, 2006

God, just tell me to shut up already. I have a clear anti-domestic bias and a lack of facts.

hayden. posted:

Maybe you can help me with this too, VJ: what are all the plastic rings that came with it for? One of them fits inside one side of the prop and I assume is supposed to go in there. What are all the others for?

I wish this came with instructions.
Yeah use the ring to snug up the prop onto the motor shaft, there should be a few sizes so make sure you find the snuggest fit. Others are just extras for other kits/motors.

ease posted:

Hey VJ, what happened after the battery fell out ?

referring to this : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XdQ1fjnwTtk&feature=related
The plane fell into the road. Thankfully it was close enough that I looked over and saw it fluttering down. Also lucked out and there was no traffic at all until I packed up my stuff and drove to it. Broke the antenna and cracked the tail, easy fixes. I was mostly pissed because I lost the battery.

CrazyLittle
Sep 11, 2001





Clapping Larry

hayden. posted:

Got the wings secured. I realized I'm a complete dumbass and didn't attach the control rods to the control surfaces before gluing (also shouldn't have used glue in retrospect) the plastic bits the control rods attach to. Had to use pliers to bent the wire to get it in and hosed up the plastic bits a bit. Oh well, learning experience.



Looks like I shoved a lincoln log into the wings. That's essentially what it is, just made of 1/2" dowel. It seems like the bands might snag on stuff during landing so I guess I'll try to make a little space for them between the wings and the fuselage hole.

I think you did just fine. You don't -NEED- to secure the wings, but as you're learning you'll probably pull some hard-G turns which is a bad habit to learn on gentle flyers. I like the pegs. I personally just used sticky velcro to act as a retainer strap for when the wings are completely in. They wont' hold in a crash, but I don't expect them to.

As suggested earlier, tape up the nose cone and the belly of the plane. That way it'll last longer from crashes and belly-landing (since there's no landing gear)

The foam cover for the wing spar can hold the spar in just fine if you completely glue it in. The servo's will be a permanent fixture in your wings, so gluing them in permanently won't matter much. If you want I can take pictures of how I did mine.

This dude is down in New Zealand and he's got his ideas on how to put it together. Obviously you don't have to follow his instructions to the letter.
part 1: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pU_IEdTDOq0&feature=related

part 2: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UL_0mQIWPyY&feature=relmfu

part 3: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FmOIeEdycs4&feature=relmfu

CrazyLittle fucked around with this message at 07:53 on Jan 12, 2012

hayden.
Sep 11, 2007

here's a goat on a pig or something
Thanks for the vids, I wish I found those before I started.

Tape doesn't seem like it'd help with preventing the foam from compressing if I landed nose down or something. Is there a special sort of tape I'm supposed to use or is the point only to protect against abrasion?

hayden. fucked around with this message at 13:11 on Jan 12, 2012

ease
Jul 19, 2004

HUGE
Tape just protects against abrasion. It keeps your plane from loosing chunks of foam and protects against rash. Compressing the foam is unavoidable if you are nose diving it.

Also, this stuff is awesome for filling in holes and coating any rash. It's really easy to apply and shape, it's really light, and when it dries you can sand it. I have made a bunch of repairs with it and still have 9/10ths of the can left.


http://www.amazon.com/Woodland-Scenics-Foam-Putty-Pint/dp/B0006NARV8

ease fucked around with this message at 14:56 on Jan 12, 2012

CrazyLittle
Sep 11, 2001





Clapping Larry

ease posted:

Tape just protects against abrasion. It keeps your plane from loosing chunks of foam and protects against rash. Compressing the foam is unavoidable if you are nose diving it.

Yep. And especially with the floater-jet, taping up the nose (and taping the canopy down when flying) will help prevent your plane's entrails from spewing out when you do crash. My first floater-jet was crashed so many times that duct tape and gorilla glue were the only things holding it together, and the nose cone was zig-zag shaped... but it still flew!

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hayden.
Sep 11, 2007

here's a goat on a pig or something
Finally putting the rest of my plane together today and it sure is frustrating. My current problem is that the elevators don't move for poo poo. My servo only actuates the rod about half an inch which is barely enough to move the elevator all the way from neutral position to the maximum in one direction. It needs literally twice as much movement to actually operate. Any ideas what I'm doing wrong? The gear on the servo is as long as I can get it and the rod connecting to the elevator is as close to the surface as it allows.

here's a crappy video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5TPihTb-8lE&t=18s

hayden. fucked around with this message at 01:42 on Jan 16, 2012

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