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CrazyLittle posted:Here's my plane of choice: I just wanted to thank you for this post, I'm pretty much just going to go for it and get exactly everything you listed sometime in the near future. Any other updates or edits you'd suggest before I place the order? For only $60-70 more than the cheaper ready to fly option, I figured why not. At some point I thought it might be cool to hook up an arduino if that makes any difference.
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Dec 16, 2011 02:44
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I've been doing some research on the possibility of making a UAV-type RC plane, but according to the rabble on other forums it's actually apparently illegal for civilians. Does anyone know the exact circumstances that make it illegal? I think I read some people saying that it had to remain within your line of sight, but then does that mean FPV flyers are technically breaking the law? edit: maybe it was only if you're doing it for commercial purposes, feel free to chime in if anyone knows better edit2: apparently you can get crazy long ranges using ham frequencies, I'm totally gonna ham one of these up:  put in a giant fuel tank (some estimates online said it could hold 20 pounds of fuel, so about 2.5 gallons), and make it do 100 mile round trip flights. hayden. fucked around with this message at 00:12 on Dec 22, 2011 |
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Dec 21, 2011 23:21
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Great, thanks for the link. I guess if nothing else I could have someone in a chase vehicle and a remote control to keep it in line of sight. I'd have to be in the middle of nowhere with flat land, though.
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Dec 22, 2011 00:20
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quote:e: I'm not sure that a totally autonomous UAV is outlawed, either, here is a link to a contest which has them compete: Thanks for the feedback everyone, more is always appreciated too.
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Dec 22, 2011 01:58
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Especially if you add some wind to it, which makes it even more realistic.
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Jan 8, 2012 15:23
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I got my AXN Floater in the mail today, but I've never really assembled a plane before and have no idea what I'm doing. Under the wings, there's a piece of foam the length of the wind that covers the tube that you insert through both wings. You can see it in this photo: (not my picture)  It's the section of foam that looks slightly different on the underside of the wings. Do I tape this down with something like packing tape, or glue it down? Gluing it down seems like a bad idea if I want to take the servos off. I also assume I don't actually glue the rod to the inside of the wings either (unless I wanted the wings permanently attached, which I don't). Also thanks again to CrazyLittle because I bought literally exactly as you posted it in this thread earlier. Will hopefully have the maiden flight (and my first real life aerial RC flight) this weekend. I used a simulator a ton a few years ago and am pretty good at piloting games with a controller in general so I have hopes that it will go well. hayden. fucked around with this message at 03:54 on Jan 11, 2012 |
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Jan 11, 2012 03:50
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The styrofoam covering the spar falls right off if there's nothing holding it in place. This plane only has a single spar that goes into both wings, but the wings themselves are not connected before assembly. The wings do lock together in a sort of flimsy way once inserted into the fuselage, but I plan on solving that similar to how it is in the above photo (rubber banding them together). Here's an image that probably makes it more clear:  And here's a little better photo of the styrofoam covering the spar, it looks like this guy just taped it but it's hard to believe that little tape could prevent the entire force those wings will have when doing something like a loop. I guess I'll go ahead and give tape a try for now:  Thanks for the help! hayden. fucked around with this message at 21:46 on Jan 11, 2012 |
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Jan 11, 2012 21:35
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ease posted:Whats that little piece of metal on the trailing edge in the notch? Is that a magnet? Yes, one of the methods of keeping the wings together is magnets, though I've heard they don't do much and add a lot of weight. Rubber bands definitely seem like the way to go. I'll post pictures of what I make, but it's essentially this:  Vitamin J posted:What I did with my Floater Jet to keep the wings removable but have a rigid spar was to glue one half of the spar into one wing with Gorilla Glue. Then I applied glue to the other wing's spar cover and wing slot, put a piece of tape over it, then slid the greased up spar into the slot, pushed it all tight, and let the glue set. I greased the spar with dielectric silicone grease. Is the purpose of the grease to make it slide more easily or to prevent the setting glue from sticking to the spar?
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Jan 11, 2012 23:36
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Maybe you can help me with this too, VJ: what are all the plastic rings that came with it for? One of them fits inside one side of the prop and I assume is supposed to go in there. What are all the others for? I wish this came with instructions.
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Jan 11, 2012 23:48
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Got the wings secured. I realized I'm a complete dumbass and didn't attach the control rods to the control surfaces before gluing (also shouldn't have used glue in retrospect) the plastic bits the control rods attach to. Had to use pliers to bent the wire to get it in and hosed up the plastic bits a bit. Oh well, learning experience.  Looks like I shoved a lincoln log into the wings. That's essentially what it is, just made of 1/2" dowel. It seems like the bands might snag on stuff during landing so I guess I'll try to make a little space for them between the wings and the fuselage hole. hayden. fucked around with this message at 03:38 on Jan 12, 2012 |
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Jan 12, 2012 03:36
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Thanks for the vids, I wish I found those before I started. Tape doesn't seem like it'd help with preventing the foam from compressing if I landed nose down or something. Is there a special sort of tape I'm supposed to use or is the point only to protect against abrasion? hayden. fucked around with this message at 13:11 on Jan 12, 2012 |
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Jan 12, 2012 13:02
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Finally putting the rest of my plane together today and it sure is frustrating. My current problem is that the elevators don't move for poo poo. My servo only actuates the rod about half an inch which is barely enough to move the elevator all the way from neutral position to the maximum in one direction. It needs literally twice as much movement to actually operate. Any ideas what I'm doing wrong? The gear on the servo is as long as I can get it and the rod connecting to the elevator is as close to the surface as it allows. here's a crappy video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5TPihTb-8lE&t=18s hayden. fucked around with this message at 01:42 on Jan 16, 2012 |
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Jan 16, 2012 01:18
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I guess I just never would have thought having such a small amount of deflection would work well. I was comparing mine to the build videos posted earlier and it looks like his moves a lot more than mine. Thanks for the feedback everyone. I'm not really sure how to check dual rates. Is that something my controller would need adjusting for? I know it hooks up to my PC but frankly I don't want to mess with that unless I have to.
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Jan 16, 2012 19:43
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Yup it was totally the dual rate lever. Much better movement now. Assembly is pretty much finished now, just need a day that isn't super windy to test it out. Thanks everyone.
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Jan 17, 2012 02:23
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My 1300mAh 3S lipo was like $8, but I'm looking on amazon and the same thing is like $15-$20. Am I missing something or is there just a big mark-up at Amazon? What's the best place to buy batteries? I noticed a lot of people recommended a larger battery for the AXN floater to help balance the center of gravity, like a 2200 mAh. I assume the disadvantage here is the additional weight? edit: lol Hobbytown USA is charging $46 for the same battery hobby partz is charging $10 hayden. fucked around with this message at 22:37 on Jan 17, 2012 |
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Jan 17, 2012 22:29
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Maiden flight today. Flight 1: Take off, immediate loop and landed upside-down on the only patch of pavement in the entire huge field. Motor and mount dislodged from styrofoam. Drove home, hot glue gunned that bitch, went back to field (I live close to it). Flight 2: Take off, immediately gain 10 feet of altitude because of wind gust, immediate nose dive into ground. No damage. Total flight time today: < 4 seconds. I finally realized as I was crashing to the ground on my second flight that the elevator was reversed (is there an easy way to fix this? The servo is glued in place). I am really bad at this. Forecast for the entire week ahead is windy. FML. hayden. fucked around with this message at 02:24 on Jan 18, 2012 |
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Jan 18, 2012 01:00
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Success! Perfect day out, nice and warm and nearly no wind. Flew about 20 minutes (I think, didn't time it) before the 1300 mAh battery gave out. Was very relieved that even after the motor stops, the servos continue working for a while. Had a few accidental rough landings but no damage aside from a slightly squished nose. Every accidental landing was a result of trying to glide with no motor too close to the ground. This plane is definitely a boat, I was thinking doing a roll or two wouldn't be too hard, but I didn't even want to risk it after getting the wings perpendicular to the ground. It also didn't glide quite as well as I hoped for, but still a lot of fun regardless. Can't wait to charge up and go again tomorrow! edit: also thanks once last time to everyone, the help was amazing and I'm sorry for spamming this thread with such beginner questions. hayden. fucked around with this message at 02:04 on Jan 20, 2012 |
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Jan 20, 2012 00:08
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Just a boat in that it didn't like sharp turns and handled pretty lofty in general. It's not a bad thing, it means it easier for me to learn with. It didn't glide as well as I expected in that it took a lot more speed to prevent stalling than I would have guessed. The CTB6 radio I have seems like it's pretty easy to switch models with the software it has, would just have to take my netbook with me if I ever took more than one plane out at a time. Also what's with hobbypartz.com being entirely out of the batteries I need. This sucks. hayden. fucked around with this message at 16:55 on Jan 20, 2012 |
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Jan 20, 2012 16:52
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They're out of the 1300mAh 20C 3S batteries of every brand I think. I'm not really sure what else would work. 3S is the number of cells, right? And 20C is the discharge rate. I know mAh is essentially capacity. I don't really know what's required of my plane though. edit: and 11.1v, not sure how that matters either hayden. fucked around with this message at 17:18 on Jan 20, 2012 |
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Jan 20, 2012 17:14
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So as long as I stay above 20C I'm okay? By undercutting I assume you mean going under 20C. Would this work as the prop adapter: http://www.hobbypartz.com/60p-3-0mm-propadaptor.html ? I see a few places mentioning it's 3mm on the AXN but just wanted to be sure.
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Jan 20, 2012 19:20
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Flew three times today, had a ton of fun now that I'm more confident with my skills. Did some loops and rolls and full throttle flying. I met two guys out at the field just by chance and they were seemingly impressed with my skills for only having flown twice at that point. They had those DIY-foam F22 Raptors and they looked like a lot of fun. I'm going to stop by home depot tomorrow to get the foam to make one. They seemed pretty easy to fly, they were very maneuverable and one of the guys even had his essentially hovering wit the help of the breeze out today. http://rc.tomhe.net/f-22  edit: also, I somehow wound up with a second receiver (the part all the servos plug in to). Does my radio only work with the receiver it came with it or does it bind to whichever? How does it know which to bind to? hayden. fucked around with this message at 02:13 on Jan 22, 2012 |
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Jan 22, 2012 01:33
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Carleton posted:OK, I guess I need one more thing, a simulator! If you know anything at all about flying RC and can playing flying related video games, you really don't need a simulator. The AXN Floater is easy enough to just go out and get into it. It's also more fun that way. I admittedly had a fair bit of experience with a simulator many many years ago, but completely new to real RC planes I was doing backflips and rolls within an hour of flying time with the AXN. Some tips come to mind when I built my AXN: -Install the control rods backwards. Have the end that attaches with a screw attached to the plastic tab sticking out of the control surface. This is a common mod, and a good one. -Either glue the wings in place or otherwise secure them. They didn't stay in for poo poo on my plane. Look back a few pages and you'll see how I modded mine -Don't glue the plastic tabs that attach to the control surfaces, in case you need to remove them later. -Shove the battery as far into the nose (forward) as possible -Watch the entirety of the build video on youtube before starting Sorry for the terrible terminology. hayden. fucked around with this message at 23:19 on Feb 20, 2012 |
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Feb 20, 2012 23:16
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RedDevil posted:I'm a noob and recently got an Air Hogs Havoc. I can fly it pretty well, but all I really feel like I have control over is the altitude. I have to hold the directional stick all the way over to the right from takeoff to landing so it doesn't spin out of control. I feel like the trim buttons do nothing. Is there a fix for this or is it just because it's a cheap Air Hog? I keep the rotors clean from dust and particles. Make sure your ailerons are flush with the wing when your controller is in all neutral positions. Trim only very minutely changes the control surfaces, maybe like a quarter of the stick throw at most in my limited experience.
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Feb 20, 2012 23:20
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With the control rods backwards you can glue them without any problems, for sure.
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Feb 21, 2012 02:16
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edit: I realized I asked these questions like a year and a half ago, thanks past me
hayden. fucked around with this message at 19:58 on Jun 6, 2013 |
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Jun 6, 2013 03:42
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