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So here's a quadcopter I built, with an onboard camera. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KGndj9ZLhLs I'm hesitant to put a bigger camera on there for FPV now because it feels like the KK boards are really unstable.
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Oct 2, 2011 22:28
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Helldesk posted:DT-750 motors and 1245 EPP props, right? How is your total weight? I have got 1045 props on mine and they work fine otherwise but they do not seem to produce enough lift to tax the DT-750 more than half their available power. I have been thinking about trying 1245's on mine but the cheapo ones perhaps cannot last being used so far outside their intended RPM or with the loads I would make them lift... and spontaneously snapping props on a quad are a Bad Thing. Yep. EPP1245 - not APC's. I should weigh it again but I think it was slightly over 1-1.2kg so yeah with those bigger props it hovers at less than half stick.
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Oct 3, 2011 00:03
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helno posted:Looks like it flys pretty well. The KK boards are as stable as your tuning makes it. I'm kinda cheating though - there's a FY-20A stabilizer on there that I was using for "ohshit" moments. I think the copter's blades are unbalanced and vibrating though because it didn't want to level out on its own that day.
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Oct 3, 2011 03:04
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ease posted:Can you explain that a little more? I am novice to MRs, and I thought that the controller board just controls the ESCs based on the gyro information. I didn't know a motor could go out of sync? Brushless motors can go out of sync with the ESC.
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Oct 4, 2011 18:13
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Vitamin J posted:Anyway, you should start reading here:
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Oct 13, 2011 19:48
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helno posted:The quadcopter FPV guy at our club uses some sort of 400 mhz thing which requires him to have an amatuer radio lisence. It is very erie seeing that thing fly off at high speed towards the horizon. I'm guessing that's 433Mhz, and yeah, you need a HAM license
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Oct 14, 2011 00:02
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Well technically you're supposed to have an amateur radio license if you're transmitting >1w anyways. So if you wanted to do long range 900mhz / 1.2ghz / 2.4ghz / 5.8ghz then getting the amateur's license might be a worthwhile investment. It's supposedly not that difficult to get. Speaking of which, I really should get off my butt and do the AMA park flyer membership
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Oct 14, 2011 18:04
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Wait, I thought that the 1 watt limit in the US applied to the 2.4ghz and 5.8ghz spectrum because that's what wi-fi's using, etc. I'm pretty certain that most consumer routers are transmitting >25mw.
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Oct 14, 2011 23:37
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I soldered together some 900mhz circular polarized antennas last night. They're such a bitch to make, and the 900mhz range ones are HUGE. I hope they work.
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Oct 15, 2011 10:02
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I finally gave in and bought a multiwii board with accelerometer, magentometer and barometer, so this thing will be able to fully stabilize itself in flight. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tg99INoFcMw
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Oct 25, 2011 01:30
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Nerobro posted:I discovered that the elevator was torn, and the servo horns were all floppy. I fixed that last night, and it now flys well again! I had that happen to me on my AXN Floater Jet, where the control horn clamps slipped, and it caused me to crash my plane hard. I've got a new floater jet on order so that I can have a good one in addition to my frankenglider
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Oct 25, 2011 04:29
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I'm using a modded Turnigy 9x with smartieparts board in it, and then when I want a better spread-spectrum RX I'm going to get FrSky's JR module.
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Nov 10, 2011 08:27
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Suicide Watch posted:I want to fly helicopters FPV. What's a good setup to start with? I want to fly with collective pitch. I suppose fixed pitch will work also, anything but coaxial. Do you already fly collective pitch RC Heli's?
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Dec 3, 2011 14:00
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Suicide Watch posted:I really just want the challenge of flying collective pitch. I won't be able to get a rotorwing license for many years so I figure this would probably be the next best thing. Once you're comfortable with hovering in place (an amazingly difficult task!) and you want to start adding a camera rig you'll want to build a 500-class heli or bigger so that you'll have the added stability and weight-carrying capacity. Bigger = more stable = more expensive. ease posted:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L75ESD9PBOw Nerobro posted:I'm not buying it. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wrvAMyobsAw CrazyLittle fucked around with this message at 00:06 on Dec 6, 2011 |
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Dec 5, 2011 23:25
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Are you any good at soldering? (simple wire-to-plug stuff) Getting into RC for the long-haul works best if you start off buying things that you can re-use across multiple craft, like getting a good radio controller. Otherwise, here's a kit that's got 99% of what you would need: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__16542__Hobbyking_Bixler_EPO_1400mm_RTF_Mode_2_Throttle_Left_Radio_.html You'll need a 12v DC adapter for the charger that's included in that box. A lot of RC chargers are designed so that you can run them off your car battery in between flights. Here is some foam-safe glue so you don't melt the plane: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__16427__Maxi_Cure_Extra_Thick_Pocket_CA_3_4_oz_USA_Warehouse_.html If you're looking for a more exhaustive list with stuff that's more beater-friendly, I can draw up something else for you. The suggestion above is simply the "easiest list to buy, shortest path to getting into the air" list. I'd suggest staying away from the harbor freight kit because those kits usually don't have parts that you can use on other planes. It's a disposable one-use thing instead of a collection of parts that you can use across all your planes. (IE wasted money on non-reusable parts) CrazyLittle fucked around with this message at 23:33 on Dec 6, 2011 |
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Dec 6, 2011 23:17
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Here's the thing about size: bigger is more stable, which makes it easier to learn on. A micro plane is a poor choice for flying outdoors because the wind will make it very unstable. Yes, hobbyking is primarily based out of china, but the items I picked are In their USA drop shipping warehouse. It's also an epo foam plane so instead of waiting for repair parts, you glue or tape any broken foam, and if you have any electronics failure you just source those parts locally for cheap from the local hobby shop or online like nitroplanes.com . Parkzone makes great stuff but they're no different when it comes to farming all their manufacturing to china. Also the spektrum radio that the champ comes with isn't anything amazing to write home about. I'd say differently of it were the dx6i or dx7. Even then dsm2 isn't special anymore. Frsky is at least on par with dsmx and cost less than half the price. Coaxial micro heli are loving great indoors though. Damned fun on a rainy day. CrazyLittle fucked around with this message at 01:19 on Dec 7, 2011 |
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Dec 7, 2011 01:17
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Nerobro posted:At this point price defines size. I would recomend something 30" or bigger for learning. Something small enough to bounce, big enough to not be a twitch fest. Yeah, the Bixler I linked to is 55" wide, and it's a decent plane to learn on with okay glide characteristics. If they're more willing to learn to glue all the parts together I would have suggested an AXN Floater Jet, as it's probably got some of the best flying characteristics I've seen for a glider/trainer, and they handle crashes and repairs really well too. It's just a bit more of a pain because you have to bring your own ESC, battery, servos, Tx/Rx, and that can be a bit daunting for somebody expecting to open the box and throw something in the air. Seconding the coaxial heli as starter-bait crack. They're brain-dead simple to fly.
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Dec 7, 2011 04:34
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blindjoe posted:I am liking that bixler, it looks better than the harbor freight ones. I am fine with soldering though, so if there is something better that just needs soldering I could do that too. Here's my plane of choice: AXN Floater-Jet The only parts you need to buy separately are:
The nice part about this approach is that the charger, battery, transmitter and receiver are portable between your different planes. It is more expensive up front than getting the RTF Bixler kit though. Here's what my list would look like: AXN Floater-Jet airframe + motor: $50 + s/h (~$60 total from hobbyking) From hobbypartz.com in California:
Total overall: ~$170 With that in mind, I would get the Bixler read-to-fly kit first to see if it really is your kind of hobby, and then if you're serious about getting stuff that you can use across multiple planes, get the Floater-Jet like I listed above but with a better multi-model-memory radio. Even then the Floater-Jet is "cheap" by comparison. Once you get comfortable with flying and putting the planes together (and repairing crashes) then you can get into building your own planes out of foamcore board or getting into building wood airfoils like Nerobro did above. That's when it becomes important to have a good charger and a good radio that can store settings for multiple radios. Here's my thoughts on the Bixler: It's got a lot of really great features for a first powered glider: Big wingspan, roomy inside, easy to work on. But the low entry cost does mean that they saved cost by putting in cheaper components than you would put in yourself (like on the floater-jet). The ESC and servos that it comes with are adequate but certainly not something I'd choose to put in another model. The wings are joined & stiffened with a 4mm carbon fiber spar that runs down the center of each wing, and the spar that ships with the plane itself is -really cheap- quality. Make sure to dial-down the response rate of the radio so that you don't try to do any hardcore loops or tight turns or you can "fold the wings" where the carbon spar splinters and the wings lose rigidity. BUT if you can keep your impulses under control and make sure to fly it gently, it'll fly beautifully. Check out Flitetest's youtube channel - they have a lot of fun episodes with plenty of good information. The "Bixler" is actually named after the straight-man of flitetest. Here's their flight review of it. (build review video) CrazyLittle fucked around with this message at 22:31 on Dec 7, 2011 |
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Dec 7, 2011 22:05
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Untagged posted:I saw this posted on Ocean City's page. I believe that guy's using the same design as RC Explorer's tricopter, but it's not the same person.
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Dec 14, 2011 18:50
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How hard is it to align the twin booms and keep everything true? Aren't the CP antennae more effective pointed toward the ground? I'm planning on using 900mhz gear, so the cloverleaf is a good 6" across and I'm wonderign if I should even bother trying to mount it downwards or not.
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Dec 14, 2011 20:15
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well... gently caress. Guess I need to see if it'll work where I fly, or else try to flip the 900mhz stuff. I'm not going to be flying over city/neighborhoods proper, but there's plenty of cellular coverage out there.
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Dec 14, 2011 20:43
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Well AT&T's 3G band is 850mhz and 1800mhz, but gsm in general can be 850, 900, 1800 or 1900 bands. So there's a good chance the antennas in the area will interfere. I will just have to find out.
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Dec 15, 2011 04:51
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hayden. posted:I just wanted to thank you for this post, I'm pretty much just going to go for it and get exactly everything you listed sometime in the near future. Any other updates or edits you'd suggest before I place the order? For only $60-70 more than the cheaper ready to fly option, I figured why not. Depending on what you had in mind for the arduino, and what your long term plans were for R/C, I would skip getting the CT6B radio/receiver combo and get something better from the start. The CT6B is a good starter radio because it's REALLY REALLY CHEAP and it's computer programmable so you can use it for planes and helicopters as long as you save the config on your computer/laptop. If you're confident that you'll be in it longer then you should get a radio that has multi-model memory (switch profiles on the fly) because while you may -try- to setup the plane/heli as perfect as possible, you'll have to compensate for error by adjusting the controller. Multi-model radios let you store the profile for each plane you make so that you can just swap between models quickly. I'm using a Turnigy 9x with a custom firmware-flashing board, and a firmware called ER9x. This particular radio starts at ~$90, and the add-on board is like another $50. Receivers for this radio are $10-20 each, and you can use receivers from the CT6B as well. If you want longer range or more robust signal scrambling you can get a "JR-style" plug in module from FrSky that's ~$50, with receivers $20-30 each, and it'll be almost as good as top of the line Futaba stuff that costs 10x's as much. Spektrum radios are more expensive than Turnigy, but not as expensive as Futaba. You can also get cheap <$10 receivers that mimick Spektrum standard DSM2 code, and are perfectly fine for not-super-long-ranges. If you didn't want to tweak or hack your own radio I'd say that Spektrum is a good way to go with a DX8 or DX6i. You should be able to find a used Spektrum for less than retail. CrazyLittle fucked around with this message at 03:24 on Dec 16, 2011 |
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Dec 16, 2011 03:21
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ease posted:Spektrum has JR style plugs, I have a DX7 I love but would also like to get more distance out of it. Could you link the specific product? With simple 8-channel rx: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__14349__FrSky_DJT_2_4Ghz_Combo_Pack_for_JR_w_Telemetry_Module_V8FR_RX.html With 8 channel + telemetry rx: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__14355__FrSky_DF_2_4Ghz_Combo_Pack_for_JR_w_Module_RX_V2_.html The whole point of course, is to get a transmitter module with spread spectrum frequency hopping 2.4ghz, and receivers for cheap. FrSky is less than half the price of Spektrum's DSMX gear.
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Dec 20, 2011 04:53
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Vitamin J posted:When someone tells you that you can't fly out of LOS or above 400 feet they are referring to the AMA guidelines published by the FAA as the AC 91-57. I believe the 400-foot rule is also the minimum aircraft ceiling for FAA regulations.
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Dec 22, 2011 09:27
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hayden. posted:Got the wings secured. I realized I'm a complete dumbass and didn't attach the control rods to the control surfaces before gluing (also shouldn't have used glue in retrospect) the plastic bits the control rods attach to. Had to use pliers to bent the wire to get it in and hosed up the plastic bits a bit. Oh well, learning experience. I think you did just fine. You don't -NEED- to secure the wings, but as you're learning you'll probably pull some hard-G turns which is a bad habit to learn on gentle flyers. I like the pegs. I personally just used sticky velcro to act as a retainer strap for when the wings are completely in. They wont' hold in a crash, but I don't expect them to. As suggested earlier, tape up the nose cone and the belly of the plane. That way it'll last longer from crashes and belly-landing (since there's no landing gear) The foam cover for the wing spar can hold the spar in just fine if you completely glue it in. The servo's will be a permanent fixture in your wings, so gluing them in permanently won't matter much. If you want I can take pictures of how I did mine. This dude is down in New Zealand and he's got his ideas on how to put it together. Obviously you don't have to follow his instructions to the letter. part 1: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pU_IEdTDOq0&feature=related part 2: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UL_0mQIWPyY&feature=relmfu part 3: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FmOIeEdycs4&feature=relmfu CrazyLittle fucked around with this message at 07:53 on Jan 12, 2012 |
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Jan 12, 2012 07:42
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ease posted:Tape just protects against abrasion. It keeps your plane from loosing chunks of foam and protects against rash. Compressing the foam is unavoidable if you are nose diving it. Yep. And especially with the floater-jet, taping up the nose (and taping the canopy down when flying) will help prevent your plane's entrails from spewing out when you do crash. My first floater-jet was crashed so many times that duct tape and gorilla glue were the only things holding it together, and the nose cone was zig-zag shaped... but it still flew!
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Jan 14, 2012 17:13
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First things first, center the elevator flap and then center the servo arm.
After doing that you should have equal deflection up and down. And like Vitamin J said you don't need much. A TINY bit goes a very long way. The way you have it setup right now it would be like pulling 10 G's in a fighter jet  let me know if you need more insight into that because I can take a video of my floater jet for you. CrazyLittle fucked around with this message at 17:57 on Jan 16, 2012 |
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Jan 16, 2012 17:53
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hayden. posted:My 1300mAh 3S lipo was like $8, but I'm looking on amazon and the same thing is like $15-$20. Am I missing something or is there just a big mark-up at Amazon? What's the best place to buy batteries? RC is a luxury hobby that was pretty much relegated to rich old people. The flood of cheap chinese crap being direct-shipped to the US has blown it out of the water, and the US shops are still charging old-school prices for a lot of their stuff. In many cases the US stuff is better quality, or it's backed by a real warranty and return policy. Also in many cases the US stuff is simply poo poo from China relabeled and sold for 300% markup. You can make your floaterjet more nose heavy with a 2200mAh battery, but personally, I'm flying mine right now with a SkyLiPo 1300mAh 25C battery because they're light, they're cheap, and it lets the plane glide slower. Just make sure to push the battery as far forward as it will let you. More weight = more speed needed to achieve the same lift. hayden. posted:Maiden flight today. ok some tips: 1) When you launch, start at half-to-3/4 throttle. That way if things go bad you're not crashing under full power. 2) Train your "oh poo poo" instinct to throttle-off, and pull up. Again that way if things go bad, you're not crashing under full power. 3) Sounds like your elevator is pulling up by default. Trim the elevator down by about 1-degree or so. And of course use low-rates if you can so that you're not trying to pull Evel Knievel stunt flying on your first true flight. 4) if you're using the CT6B controller, there's software to program it that you can download freely, or for ~$2 you can get software called "digitalradio" and it's IMHO better than T6Config because the labels are actually written out in clear English. Here's a link to some other CT6B radio software: http://www.mycoolheli.com/t6Alternate.html 5) Get in the practice of doing a "pre-flight check" of the basic simple stuff. Before you throw the plane, make sure that Aileron right brings the right aileron up, left aileron down. Same thing for Aileron left, but opposite directions. Elevator up (pull stick down toward you) and Elevator down (push stick away) should similarly move the same travel in each direction. Check rudder as well. 6) Find a buddy with some experience. They can help you trim in the plane for the first couple flights, and watch how to fly to correct any bad habits - like d-pad video game flying (tap-tap-tap). And finally, (most importantly) EVERYBODY CRASHES. Don't feel bad about it, just learn from what happened and try again. I crashed my floater jet so hard that the tail broke off. Three toothpicks, some foam safe CA glue, and some duct tape later it was back in the air flying again. CrazyLittle fucked around with this message at 02:42 on Jan 18, 2012 |
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Jan 18, 2012 02:37
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Wow you crashed it nose-first already? That was quick.
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Jan 19, 2012 03:03
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hayden. posted:This plane is definitely a boat, I was thinking doing a roll or two wouldn't be too hard, but I didn't even want to risk it after getting the wings perpendicular to the ground. It also didn't glide quite as well as I hoped for, but still a lot of fun regardless. What kind of issues were you having when trying to glide? Was it porpoising (raise nose, slow down, drop nose)? If so then you can counteract that tendency by trimming the elevator down a little bit more until it smooths out. If you want to glide, trim the plane when it's gliding. If you want to power along the majority of the time, trim it at half-3/4 throttle and cruise around that way. Running full power all the time will cut your flight time short. The raised wingtips means that it's going to resist rolling. It'll do it, but you'll lose a considerable amount of altitude when doing it. Feel free to experiment when flying but the general rule I've seen people recommend is that you should keep your plane at least "three mistakes high" so that you can pull out of it in time. For some more AXN Floater Jet fun, here's a pair of videos from the New Zealand guy: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rajByBs2kyY http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Txawn37qwHA Once you're comfortable enough with your floaterjet that you want more/different planes, I would suggest getting a new radio that has multiple model memory in it. A Spektrum DX6/DX7 can cheap (used) and the receivers are cheap too if you get DSM2 clones like "OrangeRx" from Hobbyking.com. Otherwise if you want to stay with the cheap FlySky receivers, get a Turnigy 9X / Flysky TH9X since they're directly compatible with the CT6B's receivers. They're pretty cheap, but the stock firmware sucks. They're also in pretty high demand so you'd have to backorder one from Hobbyking's US warehouse, or get it from eBay or some RC forums classified. I got a USB interface board for mine ("Smartieparts board") and re-flashed it with new firmware that let's me do just about anything. CrazyLittle fucked around with this message at 16:55 on Jan 20, 2012 |
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Jan 20, 2012 16:26
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hayden. posted:Just a boat in that it didn't like sharp turns and handled pretty lofty in general. It's not a bad thing, it means it easier for me to learn with. It didn't glide as well as I expected in that it took a lot more speed to prevent stalling than I would have guessed. Yeah, bringing a laptop with you is a good alternative to getting a new radio. Make sure to save your different radio profiles. Which batteries do you want/need? SkyLipo batteries are good enough for what you're doing. I've noticed that pretty much every hobby shop site (including ones like Tower Hobbies) frequently run out of stock of the more in-demand items.
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Jan 20, 2012 17:02
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hayden. posted:They're out of the 1300mAh 20C 3S batteries of every brand I think. I'm not really sure what else would work. 3S is the number of cells, right? And 20C is the discharge rate. I know mAh is essentially capacity. I don't really know what's required of my plane though. Yeah 3S means "three cells". LiPoly batteries hold ~3.7V per cell. 2S = two cells in series = 7.4v 3S = three cells in series = 11.1v 3S2P = 6 cells, two parallel sets of three cells in series = 11.1v (typically higher capacity/discharge rate. The motor and prop combo on the Floater Jet can use anything over 20C discharge rate. You know you're undercutting it when the battery gets "puffy" or slightly inflated. Puff the battery too much and the LiPoly cells can catch fire like the Dell/Sony/Apple batteries did. Higher C-ratings also mean added weight though, so a 40C battery will work, but it might be 1-2g heavier than the 20C battery. That's not enough to really care unless you're trying to do ultra light gliders like Nerobro was doing. You can also go up slightly in mAh and still fly just fine. I started flying my floater jet with 2200mAh batteries, but moved down to 1300mAh when I realized it could glide slower that way. 2200's force it to go faster, but something like 1500mAh can't hurt. Either way here's some 1300's that are still in stock at hobbypartz: http://www.hobbypartz.com/98p-25c-1300-3s1p.html http://www.hobbypartz.com/77p-sl1300-3s1p-30c-3333.html http://www.hobbypartz.com/77p-sl1300-3s1p-40c-3333.html CrazyLittle fucked around with this message at 18:07 on Jan 20, 2012 |
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Jan 20, 2012 18:03
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CrazyLittle posted:The motor and prop combo on the Floater Jet can use anything over 20C discharge rate. You know you're undercutting it when the battery gets "puffy" or slightly inflated. Puff the battery too much and the LiPoly cells can catch fire like the Dell/Sony/Apple batteries did. Just a note on this - I have a "Skyfun" where I crashed it and trashed the motor, so I stuck a HUGE motor on it as a replacement - a 450-sized helicopter motor, and a 8" x 8" propeller... It goes 100mph now. It also puffed my 25C battery pretty badly.
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Jan 20, 2012 18:09
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hayden. posted:So as long as I stay above 20C I'm okay? By undercutting I assume you mean going under 20C. Yes the shaft on the floaterjet is 3mm, so that prop adapter would work. You can stick with the prop-saver and rubber band until it comes back into stock. The rubber band is just an o-ring that you can buy at Ace Hardware anyways.
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Jan 21, 2012 02:40
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Here's a Q for you guys - I'm looking for a heli:
I have my trex 450 clone but it's waaaay too much for me to try to teach another beginner on.
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Jan 21, 2012 22:02
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hayden. posted:edit: also, I somehow wound up with a second receiver (the part all the servos plug in to). Does my radio only work with the receiver it came with it or does it bind to whichever? How does it know which to bind to? You actually program the receiver to listen to your radio, so you can have as many receivers as you feel like it. That's where a radio with multi-model memory comes in handy.
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Jan 22, 2012 05:10
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Looks like they were using a mikrokopter-based hexa-copter with a camera gimble attached underneath. I wouldn't really bank on a "one-size-fits-all" approach to multi-rotor helicopters. That's a quick way to dump a TON of money into something that may quickly be surpassed by newer tech.
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Jan 31, 2012 08:35
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Define "fun to fly" - there's a TON of options out there. Two foamy-builder's channels: http://www.youtube.com/user/ExperimentalAirlines http://www.youtube.com/user/MikeysRC Here's a pretty simple one, the funbat: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1385215 CrazyLittle fucked around with this message at 20:40 on Feb 4, 2012 |
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Feb 4, 2012 20:26
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I signed as I support the idea of legitimized RC AP/AV for businesses, but let's not delude ourselves: Under current FAA regulations, flying UAVs and taking AP/AV for hire is illegal without impossible-to-get certs and licensing. Also, multi-rotor and most R/C photography platforms are not mature enough to be flown safely around people and property which small business users would be using it for.
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Feb 16, 2012 20:50
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