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Thank you for sharing this resource. Unfortunately it is beyond me. If this were a university course, I would say I am missing some prerequisites. I found this page: https://dronecode.org/building-an-open-source-drone-with-px4-using-pixhawk-open-standards-thanks-to-upverter/, which led to this page: https://modular.upverter.com/#!/workspace Which seems to be a learn-by-doing style tutorial. But according to it, h7 processors don't fit on 30x30 boards.  Would you happen to know of a "for dummies" style tutorial designed to take someone from utter layman to being able to make use of this and contribute to the project? I don't see anyone else complaining so the problem must lie with me. Dominoes posted:Some of the H7s we were talking about are now in stock at Newark. Hm... I should probably buy some and launch the thing. Lately on my own projects and design, I've been going kind of in the opposite direction, of decoupled systems using CAN as the link. Makes managing complexity easier, and re configuring the same hardware and firmware pieces for different uses. Are you thinking of maybe making CANbus accessories to go with the CAN-based FC? The existing CAN-based Optical flows are expensive, and the cheap ones take up a UART. Anyone trying to replicate DJI style omnidirectional obstacle avoidance is going to want at least 6. Right now you get the choice between running out of money and running out of UARTs. https://holybro.com/products/pmw3901-optical-flow-sensor $20.59 - UART https://vi.aliexpress.com/item/1005005461021773.html $89.90 - CAN https://vi.aliexpress.com/item/1005004881069964.html $121.83 - I2C https://arkelectron.com/product/ark-flow/ $250 - CAN https://vi.aliexpress.com/item/4000544595310.html $21.03 - UART (although it has SCL and SDA solder pads, I've never seen their use documented. And it's absent from the ardupilot wiki page I don't know. Maybe there's potential in the matek.
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Oct 14, 2023 22:52
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That explains it. If CAN hardware is distributed computing, it 's going to naturally be more expensive than UART stuff. Everything is a tiny independent computer. I could see that being really useful on large quads. Shrink the FC down to the bare essentials, so much that you can afford to have two of them. And if something breaks, you only have to replace one part. That's really neat.ImplicitAssembler posted:I don't really think DIY'ing your own FC's are for laypeople without significant experience in electronics and associated coding. True dat. But I can look all googly eyed at people smarted than me who have figured it out and whine about not having enough serial ports.
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Oct 15, 2023 05:51
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This is nitpicky but you did say, "anything." If you're in the united states and the institution you're teaching at receives government funding you might run into some trouble with a DJI drone. https://www.congress.gov/bill/118th...h%20exceptions. I haven't read this in its entirety but people claim they have, https://dronexl.co/2023/11/07/banning-dji-drones-in-the-usa/ quote:[...][T]his bill not only prohibits federal agencies from purchasing or using DJI drones, but it also prevents any agency that receives federal dollars from purchasing or using them. Parrot drones aren't banned, but they're a lot more expensive. On the other hand, no alleged human rights abuses. Also you're 100% fine (legally) to buy a bunch of parts off aliexpress and build a drone yourself. Because everyone's sure the factories making those flight controllers aren't using slave labour.
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Feb 22, 2024 03:19
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That's really impressive. By the third iteration they were doing what... 5.8km at 300+km/h? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9pEqyr_uT-k&t=303s If you pause when their OSD is up you can learn some things about their drone. Their battery is 28.4v, and they're at 3.54v/cell. If you divide V by V/cell, you get cellcount, which is probably 8. And if you divide RPM by voltage, you get revolutions per volt. From top to bottom they are: 1271.6 1261.5 1165.4 1212.2 If you sum those and divide by the number of figures, you get the mean value of 1227.7. They might be seeing some voltage sag due to high current draw, so I think it's not unreasonable to guess they are flying 1250Kv motors. Also: 97.8A x 28.4V is 2,777.52W which is about 3.72Horsepower. Going at 267km/h. This is a wild guess, but because I have trouble finding 8s batteries I'm going to assume they're using two 4s in series. And I'm also going to assume they chose to keep the Wh below 100 to facilitate air travel. So that puts an upper limit of 6000mah per 4s battery. If true, their batteries weigh probably between 550g and 590g. According to my scale, my 5" drone weighs 565.5g. If we assume the exact same weight for their race drone, and plug the numbers into the drone flight time calculator, https://www.omnicalculator.com/othe..._weight:1.65!kg, we get a flight time of 34.5 minutes, which isn't that much more than a DJI drone. It's pretty cool how well-optimized they are for the job they do.
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Mar 1, 2024 17:37
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Anyone use a dedicated discharger? I recently bought a big 6s and did the full charge --> empty --> storage voltage routine, and the discharge part of the cycle took literally 3½ hours. My charger's max discharge rate at 6s is 1.9A. So I kind of want to buy a discharger. There's two I'm looking at: ISDT FD-200 SKYRC BD250 They both sort of look good at first glance but neither has got a balance port. Seems like an oversight to me. A balance port is required for a charger and I can't imagine why it wouldn't be for a discharger.
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Mar 4, 2024 21:08
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1C for a 8000mah 6s is just over 200W. I agree that would be a silly amount to take out of a 1s lipo. But I don't believe it's overkill for this specific battery.
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Mar 6, 2024 22:16
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Sweet! Stealing this.
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Mar 7, 2024 01:16
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Dude! Sweet! Those are some kickass navigation lights. I'm jealous.
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Mar 28, 2024 00:49
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Elendil004 posted:I think I am going to have to finally put the nail in the coffin of my work P4P, app no longer works on current android, no sign of a fix. I was looking at used phantom 4s the other day and one of the blurbs that came up was to the effect of 'the app doesn't work on androids you need an iPad'. So the issue might not be the drone. The app you've lost support for is DJI GS Pro, right?
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Apr 13, 2024 17:44
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poo poo. I thought that would help you. It even still says it in the ad. https://volatusdrones.ca/products/phantom-4-multispectral-certified-pre-ownedquote:Please Note: This drone can only be used with an iPad and the DJI GS Pro application I was in a similar situation with my mavic 2 a few years ago. Not software related; but batteries had gone from $90 to ($180 for knockoffs. $225 for OEMs). I realized this drone will not die when I'm done with it, but when the manufacturer decides it is no longer profitable to continue to provide for support it, and I have no say in when that happens. And as long as I continue to buy DJI drones, I will continue to have this problem. https://youtu.be/i0oL5wek-c4?t=287 But by using this program I was able to build a drone that flies on much cheaper batteries which can't be discontinued by the manufacturer. It supports RID.
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Apr 13, 2024 21:51
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You are not wrong there. DJI figured out how to put a gps and a gimbal in a drone weighing less than 250g and nobody to my knowledge has replicated the feat. Their hardware really is top tier. It's such a shame about their human rights abuse allegations and closed hardware. I'm glad I moved away from DJI. If I crash and crack the lens on my camera, I can replace it. $8. No need for DJI care refresh. I actually feel like it's *my* drone, instead of an extended lease.
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Apr 14, 2024 00:32
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That is a standard popup that appears automatically when you cross a boundary you shouldn't like entering restricted airspace or flying above 122m (400'). I don't know what it's like where you are, but to a normal and sensible person you would appear to have left the moment you became aware you were somewhere you weren't supposed to be. You didn't loiter or keep going after seeing a warning. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xg0vrThGC7o&t=341s This guy got himself charged by flying at an airport. At one. Twice. He took off from the adjacent hotel parking lot. I would not worry in your situation. I mean, your name already appears on several lists already. Most are probably targeted advertising. I would not worry about being on one more. Maybe show this to your wife: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WOZ1fVt6aPg DreadLlama fucked around with this message at 03:16 on Apr 14, 2024 |
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Apr 14, 2024 03:14
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Although your stuff is probably no longer cutting edge, it is all bound to eachother and properly set up. There is no need to upgrade anything until you reach the limits of what your gear can offer. You could switch to ELRS but that would require a new radio and receiver at minimum. Or maybe your receiver is integrated in your flight controller and you'd have to swap out the entire thing. This would mean losing all your UART settings and channel binds and PIDs etc. Unless you're one of those weirdos who enjoys soldering and programming more than actually flying you don't really have a reason to change anything on your quad at this time. You are entirely justified in your fear of electricity and fire. Lithium batteries have an energy density greater than that of gasoline. Name one other "explodes on contact with water" object you keep in your house.  If I were in your situation I would invest in a bat-safe. https://www.amazon.ca/Bat-Safe-Lipo-Lithium-Battery-Charging-Safe/dp/B0CHHXJQ26 It's overkill for the little 1S batteries that go in a tinyhawk, but when it comes to safety, overkill is good. If that doesn't blow your upgrade budget, you might consider buying a smart charger that includes a "storage" function. Most batteries like to be stored completely full but lithium batteries are weird and like to be kept at like 30%. This is hard to eyeball. https://www.amazon.ca/ISDT-608AC-Battery-Charger-Discharger/dp/B0B4DBZ9DK This is a good beginner friendly charger because you just have to be able to read to use it. You just need to know the difference between the words "charge" "storage" and "discharge". If you feel like you can remember "3v=empty, 3.7V=storage and 4.2V=full" you might be better served with https://rotorvillage.ca/vifly-whoopstor-3-white-1s-storage-charger/ because it will charge multiple batteries at the same time - safely. (You can charge multiple batteries at once unsafely with something called a "parallel charge board" https://www.amazon.ca/Parallel-Battery-Charging-Batteries-Chargers/dp/B0BCWX1G3C/ which is dangerous because the charger can't address each individual cell and if you have one I suggest you throw it away). Storage charging is important because batteries left at their storage voltage will last longer and are less likely to spontaneously combust. If your batteries have been sitting since 2019 they're probably not in good condition and you may want to replace them. Here is a 10-pack that shares the same JST-PH 2 connector as the tinyhawk2 uses: https://rotorgeeks.com/batteries-chargers/1s/gnb-1s-450mah-80c-ph-20-10-pack?filter=45 You may need to consult your instruction manual and verify that the your Tinyhawk 1 uses the same connector. Or compare it to this picture: 
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Apr 21, 2024 04:48
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You have encountered the "c" rating. "c" refers to the amount of current your battery can deliver, or ought to be charged at. The important number to remember when calculating "c" is "1". 1 x battery's capacity in Amp hours (Ah) = 1c. Or alternatively, "0.001". 0.001 x battery's capacity in milliamp hours (mAh) = 1c. For a battery with a capacity of 1.8Ah (or 1800mAh), 1c = 1.8amps. This is irrespective of voltage. (The volts do matter, but the charger does the math for you. So you can ignore "watts = volts x amps" etc. for now). For a battery with a capacity of 0.45Ah (or 450mAh), 1c = 0.45amps. My charger can't do two decimal places and odds are yours can't either. So for a 450mAh battery just charge at 0.4A (or 0.5A if you're in a hurry). The 7.4V battery has two cells instead of one, so it's called a "2S" battery. When you charge it at 1.8A, the charger delivers 1.8A at 7.4V which would be 13.32Watts. If it were a 1S battery, the charger would deliver 1.8A at 3.2V, which would be 5.76W. You don't need to know this yet. But know that the charger senses the voltage and adjusts accordingly. Later if you build a larger drone with big batteries you may need to check that the wattage of the charger you buy for it is sufficient to charge them. But don't worry about it for now. As for compatibility, one important variable you might be overlooking is the battery dimensions and weight.  I google image searched "tinyhawk battery holder" and this was among the results. "Does X battery physically fit inside the battery holder?" is one of the questions you should know the answer to before spending money on a battery. Also there's weight. If you're thinking of getting more flight time by going from a 450mAh battery to a 1000mAh battery, you'll need to remember that the larger battery weighs more. In fact larger batteries might give you pretty much the same flight time as a smaller battery, because it takes more power to lift more weight, draining the battery faster. "Does it fit?" and "How much more does it weigh?" are important considerations. Also if you go for a really big battery you can risk overheating your motors. Like, you could get a bunch of 18650 batteries and wire them up in a 1s12p pack, but never be able to lift it and burn out your motors in the attempt. Don't do this:  At 4.35V, what you have is an LiHV battery. That's "lithium high voltage". If the guy at your shop is used to regular LiPo batteries that shouldn't ever be above 4.2,V he would likely consider them odd. 4.2V is what "normal" batteries sit at when full. The 80c/160c is referring to the discharge part of the c rating. It's how many amps the battery can deliver without damaging itself. For a 450mAh battery, 1c = 0.45a. Multiply 1c by 80c to get the amps the battery can deliver. So 0.45 x 80 = 36a. That battery can sustain delivery of 36amps (until it is discharged) without damage. The 2nd number is the "burst" rating. If you do a roll or a flip or are catching yourself at the end of a powerloop or whatever, the battery can deliver 160c for short bursts without hurting itself. To calculate how many amps that is, multiply 160 by 0.45. 72. The battery can deliver 72amps for short periods. Size, weight, voltage, capacity. Stick with "1s" batteries that physically fit inside your drone and you're 95% of the way there. If you accidentally buy batteries with the wrong connector you can snip them off and solder on new ones. "1s" refers to "one cell." After you wrap your head around this concept it's easier and more consistent to use "cell count" than "voltage" because (as you have already discovered) different battery chemistries lead to different nominative cell voltages, and additionally you will encounter batteries being referred to by their "full" voltage as well as their "storage" voltage. The LiHV battery is full at 4.35V, the Lipo is full at 4.2V, and the Li-Ion is full at 4.1V. Storage voltages are 3.8V(LiHV), 3.7V(Lipo/Li-ion). The 7.4V battery that goes in your FatShark is what's called a "2s" battery and can have a voltage between 5.6V and 8.4V. (Please try to keep it above 6.0V however). But 7.4V could refer to a very discharged 3s Li-ion battery as well. Cell count gives you an idea of the voltage the battery pack ought to have, while raw voltage itself does not.
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Apr 22, 2024 21:19
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That is definitely a thing that exists and I apologize for not thinking of it before you found out the hard way. https://vi.aliexpress.com/i/32978253087.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2vnm XT60 Female to JST male: Yes  XT60 Male to JST Female: No Amazon will get it to you faster but for 10x the cost: Edit: Other potential issues: Set your battery chemistry and current.   According to the manual the 608ac will warn you for plugging in a battery without a balance lead connected, but will not warn you about plugging in a balance lead without a battery connected. Sorry about your loss. DreadLlama fucked around with this message at 17:20 on Apr 23, 2024 |
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Apr 23, 2024 17:14
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GNB is a good brand. They're lighter than Gens Ace/Tattu for the same capacity, (but typically have a slightly lesser c rating). I think they're the best possible choice you could have made. quote:4pcs 450mAh 1S HV LiPo Battery I recommend you switch the chemistry to "LiHV". You bought the fancy batteries, so you may as well use them. Also (I'm not sure about this): Your storage and discharged voltages might be different for a LiHV vs. a regular Lipo. Not charging them up all the way is fine (you'll just have less flight time), but discharging them too far is absolutely not something you should want to do. Current: Your batteries are 450mAh. 1c (the optimal charge rate) is 0.45A. Charging at 1.0A would be a little over 2c for them. They wouldn't like that. You didn't ask, but: Watch these videos. Use your judgement before showing any to your wife. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yzzz91n06Gs https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IAAxeXhmQuE https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OtZtdLVNWDM https://www.amazon.com/Garvee-Flammable-Cabinet-Hazardous-Adjustable/dp/B0CQ4ZCB7Y https://www.amazon.com/BAT-SAFE-Mini-LiPo-Battery-Charging/dp/B083KPLYMW You know her well enough to judge if she'd let you buy just one more thing, or just kick your drone equipment out of the house. Personally my bat safe lives inside my flammable storage cabinet, and each battery has its own lipo bag inside the safe. Lipos aren't like wood or oil. They're more like gunpowder. The fuel and oxidizer are already present in stoichiometric ratios. Stepping on a lipo fire or beating it with a blanket don't do anything. You can cover them with sand to absorb the heat and gas from the reaction, but you can't stop it. Bat safes are designed to vent hot gasses but otherwise contain soot and debris. Some people use ammo storage cans instead of bat safes. They're cheaper: https://www.amazon.com/Fortress-Caliber-Metal-Ammo-Can/dp/B01LYVW7DQ but just remove the rubber gasket. You don't want gasses to build up inside the can. High pressure + high temperature + enclosed space = bomb. In summary: Chemistry: Condition: 4.20V (this is what the batteries are currently at according to the charger. It will change. It should be between 4.35 and 3.7~ish) Cells: 1S Current:
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Apr 23, 2024 18:45
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That is my bad. I linked an XT60 to JST cable. Not XT60 to JST-PH 2.0. It would probably be for the best if someone who knows what they're talking about jumped in and helped you. But, As far as I know 4.35V means LiHV and nothing else. The batteries you linked explicitly stated LiHV in the description. I could be wrong again. But that's how I read it. If it were me, I would spend $10 on JST-PH 2.0 pigtails: https://www.amazon.ca/Upgraded-Connector-Battery-Inductrix-Eachine/dp/B07NWD5NTN, $8 on XT60 pigtails https://www.amazon.ca/Female-Connector-Adapter-Silicone-Accessory/dp/B0CD397T4V, and $10 on marrettes https://www.amazon.ca/Lever-Connectors-Assemblable-Compact-Conductor/dp/B09TPB66K2. (I'm assuming you don't have a soldering iron). Connect the connector that definitely fits in the charger to the connector that definitely fits on the battery. Red to red and black to black. edit: between the charger and the battery. Not between the drone and the battery. A more expensive but arguably better option would be to buy ViFly charger that's designed for 1s LiHV ST-PH 2.0 batteries https://www.amazon.ca/SoloGood-WhoopStor-Discharger-Function-Tinywhoop/dp/B0CHJG2DZC, and return the ISDT608AC. You won't have to worry about getting the polarity on your wires wrong, it's not going to fall apart when your back is turned, and it's a multi charger. But unlike the ISDT608AC it lacks power supply. So you have to buy one https://www.amazon.ca/Battery-Charger-Adapter-100%E2%80%91240V-Professional/dp/B0B3Y3JGDG But again, I'm the guy who doesn't know the difference between JST and JST-PH 2.0. If someone else disagrees with me, definitely listen to them. edit: clarification DreadLlama fucked around with this message at 02:19 on Apr 25, 2024 |
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Apr 25, 2024 00:28
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Thank gently caress, smart people have shown up.CloFan posted:This would add a lot of weight, the TH doesn't have much payload capacity. Keep the JSTs, they are much lighter than XT30 Oops. I was ambiguous. I meant between the charger's xt60 port and the battery's JST PH, not making any additions to the drone. Now I have a question: I found this:https://www.amazon.ca/Tongina-Balance-Charger-Discharger-Connector/dp/B08TW6J527. So I read this: https://oscarliang.com/parallel-charging-multiple-lipo/. And I noticed that the article was written in December 14, and Oscar Liang is still alive. It's a parallel charge board. It has the correct connectors on both ends, and nobody's making you use it for parallel charging. But if you could. And you probably would, eventually. Would you recommend it to someone?
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Apr 25, 2024 04:04
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I don't know if this is the kind of thing you're looking for but this guy has a series on a DIY phased radar array: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=igrN_wd_g74 Hey that's pretty neat: https://www.anyleaf.org/meerkat DreadLlama fucked around with this message at 16:13 on May 11, 2024 |
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May 7, 2024 19:17
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