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I HATE CARS posted:
If you're lusting after it, why don't you tell us what it's actually called.
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# ? Apr 29, 2011 15:12 |
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# ? Apr 20, 2024 13:39 |
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Awkward Davies posted:If you're lusting after it, why don't you tell us what it's actually called. No, because there's only 8000 of them in the world (ie. Japan) ... Sorry, figured people would know what it is, a Fuji Klasse S.
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# ? Apr 29, 2011 18:26 |
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I HATE CARS posted:No, because there's only 8000 of them in the world (ie. Japan) ... Not all of us are experts in this sort of thing This thing looks pretty nifty though (albeit it expensive).
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# ? Apr 29, 2011 18:54 |
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# ? Apr 29, 2011 19:17 |
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I hate you.
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# ? Apr 29, 2011 22:26 |
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Awkward Davies posted:Not all of us are experts in this sort of thing For the same price, you could get a Contax T2 which is about the same, spec-wise.
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# ? Apr 30, 2011 01:38 |
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I picked up a Yashica T2 about 6 months ago and I love it. It's my go to when I'm just cruising along. It's kind of loud which is both hilarious and kind of annoying but it's an awesome little camera. One day I'll pick up a T4 just to own one and I'm currently trying to find a Minolta Hi-Matic E that's in pretty good working condition. That Rollei 35 looks awesome though. Both with the T2 and Superia x-tra 400. edit: now with smaller pictures! RoflcopterPilot fucked around with this message at 02:29 on Apr 30, 2011 |
# ? Apr 30, 2011 02:26 |
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HPL posted:For the same price, you could get a Contax T2 which is about the same, spec-wise. I've been looking at a the Contax's, Yashica's, Ricoh's, Minolta's, etc. but this is my favourite by far. It feels a lot nicer than any of the others I've managed to have in my hand, has a narrower than 35mm lens (albiet not by much), ISO override, and is almost as pocketable as my XA.
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# ? Apr 30, 2011 15:42 |
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I HATE CARS posted:I've been looking at a the Contax's, Yashica's, Ricoh's, Minolta's, etc. but this is my favourite by far. It feels a lot nicer than any of the others I've managed to have in my hand, has a narrower than 35mm lens (albiet not by much), ISO override, and is almost as pocketable as my XA. You can override the DX ISO code by either scraping the paint off the film cannister to match what you want or using the exposure dial to adjust the ISO by +2/-2 stops.
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# ? Apr 30, 2011 16:02 |
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HPL posted:You can override the DX ISO code by either scraping the paint off the film cannister to match what you want or using the exposure dial to adjust the ISO by +2/-2 stops. Yeah I realise this, but the first is too fiddly and I'm likely to forget to do it before taking a camera and a pocket full of film out, and the second doesn't give me as much EV control over individual shots. Plus I just like this camera okay
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# ? Apr 30, 2011 22:13 |
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I've been meaning to post in this thread for a while. Sometimes I go to these camera shows in my area and buy whatever P&S's look cool. Here are my P&S + rangefinders that qualify for this thread: Contax T2 (My absolute favourite. For some reason it's just magic with b&w film) Yashica Micro Finesse (Kind of similar to a T4) Olympus Stylus Epic Lomo LC-A+ Leica C2 Zoom (One of those "not really a Leica" Leica's) Canon QL17 Konica C35V I think all my Polaroid's should count too....but I'm not one to argue.
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# ? May 2, 2011 05:52 |
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Picked up a Stylus Epic a while back on ebay and ran a roll of Superia 400 through it, I'd forgotten how awesome a simple p&s could be (except for the annoying default flash). I wish more things in photography this fun were this cheap. blue sky by microrobert, on Flickr naptime by microrobert, on Flickr
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# ? May 2, 2011 21:26 |
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For all the people asking about battery replacements and meter re-calibration etc etc. I have an olympus 35 RC and this is a drop-in replacement for the 625 mercury cell battery, and it operates at the same 1.35v that mercury batteries did so no meter compensation is needed. Everything I've read says the wein cells are silver oxide, and will last 'up to a year' and have stable voltage during their life unlike alkalines. They make a px400, px625/px13, and I think one other type. Not as cheap as alkalines but it'll last much longer so it's probably cheaper in the long run. http://www.amazon.com/Wein-PX625-PX13-Battery-Volts/dp/B00009VQJ7/ref=sr_1_cc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1304466348&sr=1-1-catcorr
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# ? May 4, 2011 00:50 |
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Got this Nikon L35AF in the mail this week from my aunt. I had to clean out the battery compartment and take it apart to clean up around it as well due to the corrosion. Looks great and everything work, flash, meter and all. Also came with the nasty brown leather case. Only bad thing is the battery door. It could be replaced but gaffer tape works just fine to hold it. Sometimes it gets pushed out to far for it to work and just need to push back. Nikon L35AF by JCleasy, on Flickr
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# ? May 7, 2011 16:48 |
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Olympus ECR - Rangefinder - 1972 Joining the club here, via a hand-me down present from my GF's dad. I put some black felt into the rims to keep out stray light, cleaned it and put in some batteries. Shutter actuates and it seems to meter. You have no way to affect the exposure or anything. There's a parallax viewfinder and the rangefinder focus screen (double image) is superimposed. Orange light lights up inside of the viewfinder and on the body = OK. Red light = too dark. And that's about all I know. Just put a roll of cheap-rear end chinese film into it, will go on a cycling tour and will see what that gets me. Will report back.
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# ? May 8, 2011 03:34 |
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Revue 400 S Got it last week off ebay for 10€. Apparently it's a relabled Vivitar 35EE, so fully automatic exposure only
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# ? May 9, 2011 14:09 |
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Well the $5 waterproof Canon is definitely waterproof. Dog days at Barton Creek, Austin by Craig F, on Flickr Although I do need to be more careful about water on the lens. I'm used to SLRs where you can see it easily. Doggy conference at Barton Creek by Craig F, on Flickr This was also my first roll with Fuji Superia, rather than Kodak Ultramax. The greens and blues really are quite amazing. Dog days at Barton Creek, Austin by Craig F, on Flickr
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# ? May 9, 2011 17:21 |
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I'm looking at an Olympus XA on Craigslist and the seller didn't ask for a specific price (just "make some offers" for a few film/digital point and shoots and an old Polaroid, he didn't even list a model till I recognized it in the photo and asked him whether it was the XA or XA2/3/4). What would be a reasonable offer to make here? I'm thinking 30 or 40, is that too much of a lowball?
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# ? May 9, 2011 18:58 |
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Beerios posted:I'm looking at an Olympus XA on Craigslist and the seller didn't ask for a specific price (just "make some offers" for a few film/digital point and shoots and an old Polaroid, he didn't even list a model till I recognized it in the photo and asked him whether it was the XA or XA2/3/4). What would be a reasonable offer to make here? I'm thinking 30 or 40, is that too much of a lowball? If it's an XA, they go for around $100ish in good working condition on eBay (unless they've dropped in the last year or two since I've looked), but the average person will assume it's worth $5. The XA2 can be had for like $30 or less on eBay, IIRC.
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# ? May 9, 2011 23:37 |
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Beerios posted:I'm looking at an Olympus XA on Craigslist and the seller didn't ask for a specific price (just "make some offers" for a few film/digital point and shoots and an old Polaroid, he didn't even list a model till I recognized it in the photo and asked him whether it was the XA or XA2/3/4). What would be a reasonable offer to make here? I'm thinking 30 or 40, is that too much of a lowball? I was pretty lucky but got an XA with flash for $40 on ebay a couple of weeks ago, so I don't think 30-40 is too low ball.
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# ? May 10, 2011 00:02 |
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I paid $60 for mine off CL.
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# ? May 10, 2011 00:45 |
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I just spent more on developing 3 rolls than I did on my XA2.. Tried a local lab instead of mailing them off to Snapfish (4 bux total for negs/prints + they post them online, ~1 week). Aside from B&W I think I'll stick with Snapfish. Ektar 100 Tri-X 400@800
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# ? May 10, 2011 07:16 |
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VomitOnLino posted:You have no way to affect the exposure or anything.
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# ? May 10, 2011 08:47 |
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Lookin at that XA sometime soon. I'm gonna pick up some SR44 batteries for it ahead of time so I can check the meter and shutter, is there anything else in particular that I should look out for? I know these things have a habit of breaking but I'm not sure how they generally tend to go bad.
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# ? May 11, 2011 03:53 |
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Beerios posted:Lookin at that XA sometime soon. I'm gonna pick up some SR44 batteries for it ahead of time so I can check the meter and shutter, is there anything else in particular that I should look out for? I know these things have a habit of breaking but I'm not sure how they generally tend to go bad. The shutter is usually most problematic, although I did get one with bad RF alignment. It is a massive pain in the rear end to adjust, I don't think I ever even got to the screw.
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# ? May 11, 2011 12:39 |
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Just looking at a couple of auctions for a Minolta Himatic 7s and a Yashica 1000 lynx. Was wondering what would be reasonable prices to pay for them, and what might be common problems that might go wrong. Given the prices these auctions seem to float around, I figure this might be a way to get my feet wet for film photography without putting in a huge investment?
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# ? May 11, 2011 13:14 |
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I think the Lynxes should go for $30-50 if they're working. They're quite a bit more reliable than the GSNs in my opinion. GSNs are prone to timing pad failures (the "clunk of death") and repairing them is a pain, whereas the Lynx have higher-end all-mechanical Copal shutters. If you really want something unique, check out the Lynx 14/14E. It's one of a very few fixed-lens f/1.4 rangefinders ever made and they run about $100. It, and I would guess the Lynx 1000, do use 625 batteries so invest in a pack of 675 hearing aid batteries and a roll of tinfoil.
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# ? May 11, 2011 13:43 |
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Paul MaudDib posted:I think the Lynxes should go for $30-50 if they're working. They're quite a bit more reliable than the GSNs in my opinion. GSNs are prone to timing pad failures (the "clunk of death") and repairing them is a pain, whereas the Lynx have higher-end all-mechanical Copal shutters. If you really want something unique, check out the Lynx 14/14E. It's one of a very few fixed-lens f/1.4 rangefinders ever made and they run about $100. It, and I would guess the Lynx 1000, do use 625 batteries so invest in a pack of 675 hearing aid batteries and a roll of tinfoil. You'll notice I posted the drop-in replacement no-tinfoil required solution further up this very page. http://www.amazon.com/Wein-PX625-PX13-Battery-Volts/dp/B00009VQJ7/ref=sr_1_cc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1304466348&sr=1-1-catcorr
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# ? May 11, 2011 21:56 |
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Rontalvos posted:You'll notice I posted the drop-in replacement no-tinfoil required solution further up this very page. I am perfectly aware of the existence of Wein Cells, thanks. You can either pay $9 for two disposable Wein cells (or $18 at my local camera store), or $2.24 for a pack of six hearing aid batteries and adapt them. The cheapest way to do that is a wad of tinfoil, but you can get a washer or o-ring for it too. A Wein cell is just a 675 with an adapter, anyway (but good luck getting the adapter onto another battery, I can't do it). Also in my experience zinc-air cells like Wein or 675s last between a month and three and I have had no luck re-sealing them. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 22:30 on May 11, 2011 |
# ? May 11, 2011 22:27 |
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There are also serious business adapters (that correct the voltage too!): http://www.criscam.com/mercury_battery_adapters.php I'm planning on getting one of these once my Wein cell supply runs out, I figure it would pay for itself in about a year or so.
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# ? May 11, 2011 22:37 |
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FasterThanLight posted:http://www.criscam.com/mercury_battery_adapters.php
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# ? May 12, 2011 12:30 |
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Picked up that XA today, and the seller tossed in an A16 flash she found in the camera bag. Unfortulately, the batteries had leaked in the flash at some point and it was pretty bad - I smacked it with my hand and huge chunks of battery crud started pouring out. I cleaned it up as best as I could, but it just gives the charging whine forever without lighting up the "ready" lamp on top, and I gave up when I could feel the batteries heating up inside. I assume the flash is hosed? I'm not too upset cause I'd only thrown in an extra $5 for it, just wish I'd thought to look inside but it was kind of an afterthought. The camera itself is in great shape so I'm still pretty drat happy here.
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# ? May 13, 2011 21:07 |
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If you feel brave, maybe you could try popping it open. I'd bet the capacitor is the culprit, but I'd guess a replacement might be $5-10 after shipping and there's no guarantees. There's an article on capacitor reforming here, or you could just try charging and firing the flash (it might fire without a full charge) a few times. I think the XA flashes just use two pins, my guess is if you short them it'll fire.
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# ? May 14, 2011 00:08 |
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I couldn't get it to fire via the camera after a couple minutes of charging, but based on that article I guess I should just try letting it charge a little while longer with breaks for the batteries to cool back down. I don't have access to any sort of power supply that could deliver the capacitor's rated voltage (I assume it's in the hundreds of volts), so if the flash's own circuitry can't do the job then I guess I'll have to toss it. EDIT: On an unrelated note, how long ago did 3M quit making film? They tossed in a couple rolls of K-Mart branded stuff that says "Made by 3M" and I'm wondering whether it's even worth trying to get processed. (Or should I shoot it all for that "artsy" expired film look?) Beerios fucked around with this message at 01:08 on May 14, 2011 |
# ? May 14, 2011 01:04 |
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Beerios posted:EDIT: On an unrelated note, how long ago did 3M quit making film? They tossed in a couple rolls of K-Mart branded stuff that says "Made by 3M" and I'm wondering whether it's even worth trying to get processed. (Or should I shoot it all for that "artsy" expired film look?)
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# ? May 14, 2011 01:24 |
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Any SF-based goons need to get to the Harvey Milk Photo Center on 50 Scott Street now. They're doing a garage sale; they're selling a ton of old 35mm P&S cameras and darkroom equipment for $1 a pound. I'll post this to a couple other relevant threads too. Edit: Don't come today, they just closed on me. They said they'll be back on Tuesday, and they think it'll take a while for this stuff to sell. I grabbed some 35mm P&Ss and a tank and six reels (two 120 and four 35mm), a weirdass Mavica video camera (gotta find floppies), and an old Kodak 110 camera with film in it for $4. atomicthumbs fucked around with this message at 01:05 on May 15, 2011 |
# ? May 15, 2011 00:49 |
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atomicthumbs posted:Any SF-based goons need to get to the Harvey Milk Photo Center on 50 Scott Street now. They're doing a garage sale; they're selling a ton of old 35mm P&S cameras and darkroom equipment for $1 a pound. I'll post this to a couple other relevant threads too. What the heck, I'm there every weeknight. When did this start?
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# ? May 15, 2011 05:29 |
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McMadCow posted:What the heck, I'm there every weeknight. When did this start? the sign on the door said "today", but they said it'd still be there later.
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# ? May 15, 2011 08:17 |
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RoflcopterPilot posted:Are we allowed to talk about film p&s cameras or digital only? I've been trying to find a wide angle film p&s and all I've really come up with is the superheadz slim/ultra wide cameras but they're at 22mm and I was hoping for something wider but not a fisheye either. I was also hoping to avoid the "toy" cameras but I'm thinking that's the only way I could get such a wide angle in a p&s. I'll just put this right here. Any suggestions?
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# ? May 15, 2011 19:28 |
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# ? Apr 20, 2024 13:39 |
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RoflcopterPilot posted:I'll just put this right here. Any suggestions? Ricoh GR21 has a 21mm f/3.5 lens. Good luck finding one at a decent price though.
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# ? May 15, 2011 19:33 |