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TheLastManStanding
Jan 14, 2008
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Sounds like a cr123

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TheLastManStanding
Jan 14, 2008
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AIIAZNSK8ER posted:

Stupid question time, is the A11 flash on an XA at all useful?
It isn't great, but the people who complain about it are pansies. It changes the length of the camera from 4 in to 5.5 (+37%), so it's a decent size difference, but I can still easily fit it in my pocket (this probably won't be true if you are wearing your hipster skinny jeans). It only takes a second to detach, so you can always keep it in a separate pocket if you have to. It is pretty slow; mine takes ~6 sec with the first charge taking even longer, but factoring in the wind time you can tell it really isn't meant as an action camera. It's a pretty powerful flash and I've never been in a situation where it wasn't enough. One thing to remember is that it drags the shutter, so if you don't want a bunch of highlights flying around you should cover the lens after hitting the shutter.

TheLastManStanding
Jan 14, 2008
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dorkasaurus_rex posted:

I HATE old flashes. Nasty overcomplicated pieces of junk, imho.
Overcomplicated?!? The only thing on my old flashes is an on button and sometimes a test button; I can't image anything simpler than that.

TheLastManStanding
Jan 14, 2008
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dorkasaurus_rex posted:


I mean like this. I just look at them and my brain falls apart. While I've grown more comfortable with my 430EX, I'm still a total noob with it and flashes in general.


They aren't complicated, but they take a while to get used to. Most really old flashes will have a dial, slide, or chart that you read off of. For this example you would turn the dial to match your iso on top, figure out the distance to your subject on the bottom, then where it lines up is the aperture you use. It slows you down a bit since you'll have to check the chart often if you're out walking around, but generally if you are at a party taking pictures you're going to be the same distance away from people each time just based on framing. In that case you can set it once and be done with it.


Later flashes (like the one you posted) had an auto mode. For the given mode you would set your camera to the aperture that the arrow is pointing to and as long as your subject was within the range of that bar they would be properly exposed. For example: In the photo I posted if I set my camera to iso 100 at f/5.6 while in the red mode then I could take a photo of anything between 1 and 7 meters without changing settings.

TheLastManStanding
Jan 14, 2008
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More XA love :allears:









I'm on my last free expired roll of K gold 200. I can't wait to be done with it so I can try out that new portra stuff.

TheLastManStanding
Jan 14, 2008
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I just found out I have a Konica C35AF2 Auto Focus 35mm 2.8
The flash is busted and the camera doesn't seem to be working... Guess my weekend will be spent fixing and testing it.

TheLastManStanding
Jan 14, 2008
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atomicthumbs posted:

Any SF-based goons need to get to the Harvey Milk Photo Center on 50 Scott Street now. They're doing a garage sale; they're selling a ton of old 35mm P&S cameras and darkroom equipment for $1 a pound. I'll post this to a couple other relevant threads too.
Just went down there today. I figured anything super good would be picked over already, but still found a bunch to buy. I got two tanks (single and double) with 3 35mm reels and a 120 reel, a 35mm bulk loader, a tiny 4x5 easel, a huge pack of huge gels, and 35mm negative holder.

Nothing too special in the lot, but if you want reels they have truckloads. I counted 5 boxes of metal ones and 3 boxes of plastic ones. They also had safe lights, easels of every size (both fixed and adjustable), a whole box of grain finders, two boxes of bulk loaders, and some really old rusty timers.

Some notables: They have a full size enlarger in box. Don't know if it's complete but it's looked all there. The only camera left worth noting was an Olympus AFL-T, which really isn't worth noting. There were also a few boxes of contrast filters are probably worth something.

TheLastManStanding
Jan 14, 2008
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Any camera that is legitimately a 'point and shoot' will require a battery to work since they have an automatic metering process that requires a battery. The good new is that they are almost always watch batteries (or a single AA or AAA) and tend to last forever. If you want a camera that doesn't require a battery you'll have to move up to a full SLR or down to a toy camera.

TheLastManStanding
Jan 14, 2008
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asteroceras posted:

Well, that's pretty inaccurate... Besides the selenium-metered options (as this thread encompasses rangefinders), many P&S have a set shutter speed.
Not that I have any specific ones to recommend.
If it's a rangefinder, it's not a point and shoot. If it's a fixed focus/shutter-speed/aperture then it's a toy camera, not a point and shoot. His question was to to find out which of the cameras in the OP don't require a battery. All that were listed require batteries and I suggested just finding a nice one that uses batteries since they tend to last forever. Hence my post was accurate, on topic, and helpful.

In Summary; Just get an XA.

TheLastManStanding
Jan 14, 2008
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Tell me how it goes. I've got the similar Konica C35 AF2, but I've never had any interest in actually using it.

TheLastManStanding
Jan 14, 2008
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My XA drowned in the ocean and it still works perfectly :colbert:

TheLastManStanding
Jan 14, 2008
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It did kill it, but I brought it back to life. I had to open it up, clean it out and it's worked flawlessly ever since.

TheLastManStanding
Jan 14, 2008
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tuddy posted:

but i did two rolls done, and cvs botched them by not cleaning their machines - scratches across every negative. woof.

Those look like stuck/dead pixels. I'm betting that if you look at the negatives they aren't there and you could get the shots rescanned at a more reputable place.

TheLastManStanding
Jan 14, 2008
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VomitOnLino posted:

If this is a specific problem to Wein cells then ignore this advice I guess.
It's an inherent problem with the Wein cells; they function using the oxidation of zinc. Once you take the sticker off the air hole they only last ~3 months. Supposedly you can put the sticker back on to prolong their life between uses, but it doesn't help much and you have to wait ~30 minutes after you've taken the sticker off for the battery to get up to full voltage.

TheLastManStanding
Jan 14, 2008
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I have a Pen D2 and it is awesome.

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TheLastManStanding
Jan 14, 2008
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Yeah, it has the 32mm f/1.7 and an uncoupled meter. For point and shoot purposes the lower f-stop and automatic features of the EE line aren't really that big a deal. I wouldn't bother with the FT line, the larger lenses sort of defeat the purpose of a tiny point and shoot, and the quality of a half frame image isn't worth the high price.

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