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Yikes, that tire wall is pretty cozy. Don't think I'd ever want to run there.
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Mar 13, 2011 17:25
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Lightbulb Out posted:The standard E30 rack is 4 turns lock to lock and is annoying on the autocross course for sure, but wouldn't make me sissy enough to not try it at least once. Get an E36 rack, it's awesome.
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Mar 17, 2011 03:05
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FatCow posted:9 acres of asphalt with no lightposts, drains, dips/rises. It's going to be awesome. Wow, that'll rival Michelin's Black Lake. I'd like to try NCCAR once. I hear it's fun, but I hate to think what all those sweepers will do to my tires. And oil pressure.
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Apr 18, 2011 22:55
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Hey FatCow, you mentioned that there was a PDR guy that would come to some of your events. Let me know when he does that again, I want to throw some cash at him. Maybe I'll spend the day setting up cones too.
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May 8, 2011 02:50
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He just wanted to see a wicked burnout, man.
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May 24, 2011 02:13
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Keep your hands at 9 and 3. Rest your thumbs on the spokes of your steering wheel and you will be able to feel what the front end is doing through your hands. If you need to move your hands, always keep one on the wheel. Try to always keep a thumb on a spoke (use lower spokes too). I wouldn't try shuffle steering without an instructor (I'm guessing the camera man is not an instructor). I don't like shuffle steering anyway so I'm not a good resource on that. Just make sure your hands are in a good position to maintain control of the wheel throughout the turn BEFORE turn in. Make sure your elbows do not touch during your turn. I've had teachers say "9-3, 10-2, put your hands where you feel comfortable." The teacher who showed us the thumb-on-spoke trick said "keep your hands where they are comfortable, but be comfortable at 9-3." Don't put your hand inside the wheel. Ugh that is bad. Just please don't do it. Are you afraid your shifter is going to fly away? Keep your hands on the wheel. Why do you hate your transmission so much? Stop beating it into submission. Shift with your fingers, it will keep you out of the $$money shift$$. Transmissions are expensive. DogDodger has a good start for seat distance. -Keep your seat close enough to press the clutch and brake to the floor without locking your knees -Keep your shoulder blades and lower back pressed squarely into your seat (like your thumbs on spokes, this will let you feel what the REAR of the car is doing) -Be able to dangle each hand over the wheel with the wrist resting at 12 o'clock (shoulders against your seatback) -Seatbelt pro tip: Start with your seat all the way back on the track. Get the belt on and as close to you as possible. Yank the belt so it locks. Slide our seat forward into position. The belt will be TIGHT and keep you locked in place.
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May 25, 2011 04:19
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How do you sync up your videos? Just eyeball it? I have a GoPro SD which seems to only be good for in-car only, out the windshield is all washed out. I'd like to get another HD camera to use in conjunction. A separate audio recorder would be swell too. Turning all this poo poo on and off is going to get aggravating, I think.
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Jul 19, 2011 00:07
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Welp, that's a pretty good idea. So far I only use Avisynth and ffmpeg to edit my video so I'd need to figure something out. I'd love an HD but that's a lotta dough. My SD mounted in the location I have works really well for seeing in the car, the steering wheel, the shifter, my feet somewhat, and actually out the windows a little bit. Most of the windshield is bad. I was thinking about picking something up from Woot when they come up, maybe an Xacti.
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Jul 19, 2011 05:03
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Discovery Parts and OG Racing are good online retailers. They are NASA sponsors too, so when NASA comes around they are likely to have parts trailers (Discovery at Charlotte Motor Speedway and OG at VIR). Sneed's Speed Shop is local. VIR has a pro shop too. I'll ask around about other local shops. It's always nice to try before you buy. Your club may not require Snell or SA rated helmets yet, but most are going that way if not already. It's better to be safe than sorry, especially if you think track days might be in your future (VIR is a fantastic track by the way).
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Feb 29, 2012 02:16
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Phone posted:The R-S3 is a hot tire, but I'm looking forward to the Z2 that was released this spring in Japan by Dunlop. It's apparently consistently 1-3% faster than the out-going Direzza Z1. Oh boy I hope this hits soon because I'd love Z1s on closeout.
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May 11, 2012 01:04
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A lighter car might be OK with Yellowstuff or HP+ for light track duty. Even then, I'd strongly recommend proper brake ducts for track duty. I thought Yellowstuff was OK for the street, no real issues, and worked well enough for a track day. They would totally give up when smoking hot, but had linear feel from cold up until that point. I thought HP+ was terrible for the street and the track. The feel was completely unlinear and would bite more as they warmed up. I almost got into trouble trailbraking into corners, rotating the car more than I wanted. What I'd recommend is getting HPS or Yellowstuff for street/autoX and get something more aggressive for the track. EBC likes to make rotor friendly pads, and the Bluestuff is safe to use on the street and better suited for high temps than Yellowstuff. The Blue or HT-10 would be the net step up in the Hawk line for track days, and both are not very good on the street. Maybe good enough to get you to and from the track, but not much else. Yeah, buying more brakes sucks, but buying more brakes because you destroyed a set in a day sucks more. Try a set of HP+ or Yellowstuff now, then go with separate sets later when you get faster on the track.
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Jun 18, 2012 04:24
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CatBus posted:Thanks! I will look into the suction cup mounts. Is there any good free video software (like whatever made the three screen video)? I use Avisynth scripts with VirtualDub to overlay videos and do editing, then use ffmpeg to compress the videos. It's cumbersome at first, but once you get some good scripts it's easy to adapt them to all your sessions.
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Jun 29, 2012 04:35
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I've found EBC to have pretty fantastic dual purpose pads. The yellows are good enough for light track duty, and you can step up to blue when you out grow yellow. I've used both on the street without any issues whatsoever besides dust, which I think are still less than HP+. EBC yellow/blue are what HPS/HP+ should be.
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Oct 14, 2012 23:54
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