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I want to start taking some landscape shots with my x100s. I'm thinking I should get a polarizer and probably a lens hood as well (I already have a solid tripod). Anyone have recommendations?
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Jul 30, 2014 20:11
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RustedChrome posted:Polarizers clean up the reflections on leaves too. It's great for landscapes. Get a good quality CP and a good quality ND for bright days. You get what you pay for with those filters, I've found.
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Jul 31, 2014 10:03
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I haven't seen this mentioned in any of the previews, but looking at Fuji's spec sheet, it seems like the x100T will now have the 2.5mm mic/shutter release input that was missing from the x100s. That means it should be compatible with Triggertrap, correct? That might be enough to sway me to upgrade from the x100s, otherwise I'll probably wait for the next gen.
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Sep 10, 2014 22:10
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ChirreD posted:What are the real time OVF frameline adjustments? The big rectangle shifts or something?
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Sep 20, 2014 20:54
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Cacator posted:Space. I filled up a 32 GB card on a trip with only RAWs. Granted, I had a spare 16 GB card but I only shot RAWs on that one too (didn't fill it up though) RAW + JPEG doesn't take up that much more space than just RAW. The X100s RAWs take up ~33.3MB a shot, while most of my full size fine SOOC JPEGs are in the 3-5MB range.
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Oct 21, 2014 09:03
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whatever7 posted:I have a road trip coming up. It's too late to get a droid to play around with now. whatever7 posted:Nobody can help me with the m43/time lapse question? Any camera that works with Triggertrap should be able to handle your time lapse needs. It looks like there are at least a few models cheaper than the GM1 that are supported. Not sure what you mean by video vs sequenced jpeg though. Do you mean you want the camera to automatically convert the captured stills into a video? That may be harder to find, but if that's what you mean, I wouldn't let that be a deal breaker. There is software that makes converting a sequence of jpegs to a time lapse video a breeze.
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Oct 23, 2014 04:11
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Fart Car '97 posted:If you stayed one generation behind you could constantly switch brands/lenses at little cost so that you were using the absolute best of the last gen, but it would be a huge hassle. This is true for bodies, but lenses aren't something that steadily improve each generation. Good glass is good glass. Companies don't release a new 70-200 2.8 every few years that causes the previous model to significantly drop in price, for instance. Investment in lenses and accessories is what keeps people locked into a given system, not bodies.
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Nov 20, 2014 20:05
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Is the Fuji lens rebate still going on? If so, for how much longer? I thought it was suppose to end last week, but it looks like at least B&H still has the discounted prices.
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Jan 5, 2015 22:43
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If you only want Lightroom, CC is not a great deal. Major LR versions come or infrequently enough that you end up paying significantly more for CC than buying new stand alone versions whenever they are released. Especially if you buy into LR when it is on sale. I'm at the point where I would have paid over twice as much for LR5 if I had gone CC rather than standalone.
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Feb 8, 2015 21:26
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8th-snype posted:I am strongly antizoom but I just ordered an XF 10-24mm f/4, because I don't want to carry a bunch of wide-angles on jobs. Thread, please tell me I made the right choice over a 12mm f/2 Rokinon that is a third of the price. I want to get a wide angle lens and am looking for any excuse to get the 12 or 14 instead of the much larger 10-24. Here's to hoping you made the wrong choice. 
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Feb 11, 2015 19:53
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Import the RAWs & JPEGS as separate pics, select everything and "auto stack by capture time", set the time interval to 0. In most cases this will get all of the RAW/JPEG pairs stacked together. If you were shooting in burst mode, you sometimes end up with distinct photos that have the same capture time.
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Feb 20, 2015 19:41
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MMD3 posted:I don't suppose there's any way to set a preference for the jpegs to appear on top of the stack? Not that I know of, but I haven't really looked into that. From my experience with an x100s and X-T1, the JPEG is usually what ends up on top (i.e. the JPEG gets imported before the RAF), but not always.
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Feb 20, 2015 20:05
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ChiTownEddie posted:Is the X100S primed to my door in time for the weekend an okay deal at ~$790? Amazon seems to be the only place with used ones in stock right now (besides bh and keh don't that is). I think that's a good deal. If you can wait, I'll be putting mine up in the buy/sell thread later this week.
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Mar 18, 2015 17:56
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Any Fuji shooters here that do long exposures and/or landscapes with some combo of a polarizer , ND and/or GND? What sort of filter setups do you guys use? I'm currently using an x100s with screw on CPL and ND10, but I'd like to get a setup that works with my X mount lenses so I can sell the x100s (can't justify having two cameras right now). Ideally I'd have 1 screw on CPL with step-up rings and a square filter system with an ND10 and GND that work with all my lenses, but it seems like that may be hard to pull off. I currently have the 18-55mm (58mm filter) and 55-200mm (62mm filter), and eventually wan to add either the 14mm (58mm filter) or 10-24mm (72mm filter, leaning 10-24mm at this point for the wider FOV). The Lee Seven5 system looks like it would be ideal, but it sounds like it has significant vignetting on the 10-24 at anything wider than 13 or 14mm. The Lee 100mm system supposedly doesn't have any issues with the 10-24, but it sounds like the 100mm GNDs don't work well on smaller lenses like the 18-55mm (the transition covers too much of the lens). Are there any filter systems that can pull this off? Seems like there's no way around needing a separate G/ND setup for the 10-24 and the smaller lenses. That said, I could at least get a 72mm CPL that could work for all 3. Any ideas for an efficient, flexible filter setup?
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Apr 3, 2015 03:47
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whatever7 posted:I really only invest in filter for wide angle lens. I have a 10 step ND filter Thanks for the info. Are you using screw ons for everything, even the GND? That's true about applying the GND in post as long as the scene's DR isn't too wide for the sensor. That's what I've been doing, and taking multiple exposures if needed for the DR. But lately I've been working on reducing the amount of time I spend in post. I've been considering a square system for two reasons. First, to be able to set the split point on GNDs. Second, to able to compose and set the CPL, drop in an ND10, then shoot. Using both a screw on CPL and ND10 on the X100s, it was sometimes a struggle screwing in the ND without throwing off the polarizer setting. I'm leaning toward just getting a setup that will work with my 18-55 (same size as the 14) and 55-200 (same size as the 23 and 56s), and worry about the 10-24 separately if/when I pick one up.
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Apr 4, 2015 01:40
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On the topic of cases, does anyone have recommendations for carrying cases for the Fuji X-T1, 18-55, 55-200 and mirrorless lenses in general. I'm looking for individual cases for each item that will provide some protection for when I carry my gear in a non-camera backpack. Ideally, the case for the X-T1 would have enough room to accommodate a smallish attached lens (like the 18-55 or smaller), so I wouldn't always have to remove the lens before storage. For the lenses I've been looking at fold over pouches and draw string pouches.
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Apr 6, 2015 23:16
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terriyaki posted:Domke wraps? Thanks for pointing me in that direction. Just ordered a 15" wrap for the 55-200 and an OP/Tech neoprene case for the X-T1 with 18-55 attached.
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Apr 8, 2015 02:05
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I'd get a standard zoom then. The fast apertures of primes aren't a huge benefit for that kinda stuff. After shooting for a while, he may notice he really likes a certain focal length and then decide to get a prime. I'd hesitate to recommend a prime as someone's only lens if that person is not experienced enough to make that decision on their own.
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May 7, 2015 01:12
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If you go Fuji, I'd definitely go with the 18-55 2.8-4 over any of the wide angle only lenses. He'll miss out on a lot of "outdoorsy landscape type stuff" if his only option is wide angle.
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May 7, 2015 02:12
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Yeah, the X-T1 is a better comparison. Not just feature wise, but also form factor.
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May 7, 2015 04:43
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also https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rbvxlvSIIww
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May 13, 2015 22:07
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Another vote for the 18-55 F2.8-4 Especially for: Bag of Sun Chips posted:general traveling - Denver/Yellowstone later this year, along with numerous trips and (beer) events throughout the year. Unless you are already madly in love with a specific focal length, the 18-55 makes more sense as your first lens.
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May 20, 2015 02:26
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Option 4 - only bring the 3 batteries you already have and spend less time behind your camera. You're going to Bonnaroo! Go wild, have a good time! 3 batteries should be plenty (~200-300 shots per battery with power friendly settings iirc) unless you are literally walking around with the camera on snapping shots all day every day.
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May 20, 2015 19:16
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Animal posted:Has Adobe mentioned they are working on it? Personally, I think reports of xtrans IQ issues are overblown, and in general it's not worth 'spergin about modern sensors. They all blow sensors from 10 years ago out of the water and are capable of capturing beautiful pictures with great DR. Unless you specifically need a feature like Sony's super high ISO capabilities, I'd focus on other features like lens lineup, size/weight, ergonomics, video capabilities (if you care about video) rather than sensors.
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Jul 10, 2015 00:42
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polarbear_terrorist posted:So would this not be a good deal? Fujifilm X-A1 with 16-50mm and 50-230mm Lenses for $800 Personally, I'd get a kit with the XF 18-55 (can be found used for under $350) rather than getting the XC lenses.
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Jul 15, 2015 20:27
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If you hold the DISP/BACK button while you turn the camera on it will tell you the body/lens firmware version.
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Jul 27, 2015 23:03
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Phone posted:Hey, do you or anyone else with an X100T willing to share what you're using/traveling with? I'm going to be picking one up within the next few months, and want to know what are some things to consider. My kit included (didn't always bring everything): MeFoto Backpacker, GorillaPod Hybrid, 49mm filter adapter, 49mm polarizer, 49mm 10 stop ND, short cable release.
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Aug 3, 2015 18:50
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Animal posted:But water damage is not the only thing I am worried about. The 18-55mm already survived being drenched at Iguazu falls in Argentina, I can't think of a more humid environment. What I am worried about is very fine sand. I already ruined a Canon Powershot S120 in the Sahara (canon was very gracious to replace it with a BNIB even though it was two months out of warranty). Would those sleeves protect against dust? I'd expect the 18-55 to be a bit more robust than a P&S, especially with a little added protection (sleeves that have been mentioned, front filter, etc). My non-weather sealed Nikon crop gear survived Burning Man, and that alkali dust is notoriously hard on electronics. Just because it's not weather sealed doesn't mean it's guaranteed to fail after some exposure to harsh environment. It sounds like the 18-55 is the lens you want due to it's size and OIS, and you are only considering the 16-55 because the non-WR of the 18-55 might be a problem. If I were you, I'd stick with the 18-55, take it everywhere, maybe adding some extra protection when I know the environment will be harsh. It'll probably handle everything you throw at it just fine, and then you saved yourself from dropping $1k on larger lens that you don't really want/need. Worse case, it's a cheap lens to replace since it's a kit lens (can find used for ~$300). I have a X-T1 w/ 18-55 and that's how I'm approaching it. I'm not considering giving up the compactness (and OIS) of this setup unless I'm sure the lack of WR on the lens won't cut it where I'm bringing it.
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Aug 4, 2015 19:02
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Fuji x100/s/t owners, I'm selling 49mm CPL and 10 stop ND filters in the Dorkroom buy/sell thread. Both are top of the line B+W filters. Get your landscape and long exposure on! Also selling an x100s.
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Aug 6, 2015 04:47
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x100s also has the newer 16mp xtrans sensor and a higher resolution EVF. There's a bigger gap between then x100 and x100s than the x100s and x100t.
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Aug 13, 2015 21:27
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I've been looking to add an ultra wide to my Fuji landscape/travel kit (alongside the 18-55 & 55-200). My first thought was the 10-24 and I was close to pulling the trigger since it is on rebate right now, but now I'm leaning toward the Rokinon/Samyang 12mm f/2 (manual focus). My rational:
Anyone have any thoughts on the 10-24 vs 12 for primarily landscape purposes? Do the lenses have comparable image quality? Does the Rokinon 12 have issues w/ bad copies (e.g. should I go w/ new over used for easier returns in case of a bad copy)? There's no difference between the Rokinon and Samyang versions besides the name, right (the prices don't always line up)?
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Sep 17, 2015 01:08
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Am I wrong in thinking the term 'crop' in reference to sensor size is being taken too literally? Isn't a full frame sensor also a 'crop' sensor when compared to medium format or large format? Doesn't lens design need to be taken into account? A 25mm m4/3 lens' image circle doesn't cover a full frame sensor, so it doesn't seem like it's as simple as saying a 25mm m4/3 picture is equivalent to cropping down a 25mm full frame picture to a 50mm FOV. Lenses have resolution too, and in the later case the final image is being made with a much smaller percentage of the image the lens is designed to produce. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but it seems like you guys are comparing apples and oranges here.
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Sep 18, 2015 19:39
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I use a trigger trap with my xt1. Goes from phone's headphone jack to cameras USB. Triggertrap's website can tell if it will work for your specific camera. It doesn't work for all Fujis. When I had an x100s they didn't have a compatible adapter.
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Oct 18, 2015 06:47
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I ordered a 35mm 1.4 a couple months ago while Fuji had it marked down to $400, but it just arrived this week since it was backordered on B&H, so I could still return it for a full refund and wait for the 35mm 2.0. What are the main pros and cons of each? It sounds like the 1.4 is better optically, while the 2.0 is weather resistant, smaller (not like that 1.4 is a huge lens though), quieter and has faster AF speed. Am I missing anything? Leaning toward keeping the 1.4 at this point since the main reason I got it is to have a fast, oMg BokEh option to complement my 18-55 2.8-4, 55-200 and Rokinon 12. The WR of the 35 2 is appealing, but if it's not great wide open on top of being a stop slower, I'm not sure if it's the best fit for what I'm looking for. Are there actually significant image quality differences between the 1.4 and 2 at wider apertures, or is that mostly conjecture at this point?
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Oct 21, 2015 19:48
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Do the MTF charts on Fuji's website for the 35mm 1.4 and 35mm 2 tell us anything about how they compare optically? I'm guessing not really, since they're both probably done at max aperture, which is obviously different for the 2 lenses. But as someone that doesn't really know what I'm looking at, it seems like the 2 may be sharper in the center, but less sharp in the corners compared to the 1.4.
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Oct 22, 2015 01:18
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Does this lenstip review of the fuji 35mm f2 pretty much confirm that the new 35mm is considerably sharper than the old 35mm f1.4 at f2 and in general? That plus faster AF and WR make it seem like a no brainer to exchange my recently purchased 1.4 for the new 2.
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Nov 3, 2015 23:41
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Anyone have Fuji 35 f2 trip reports? Does it live up to the hype?
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Nov 18, 2015 07:21
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MMD3 posted:awesome, thanks for the comparisons. Double check if the IR focus assist on the EF-42 (or any flash) even works with the X-T1 (or Fuji cameras in general). When I was looking into flashes for the Fuji the impression I got was Fuji bodies still use the on camera white assist light, even when a flash with IR is mounted (as a previous poster said, the EF-42 is rebranded for Fuji, so it wasn't designed for Fuji cameras). From what I gathered it's because Fuji bodies primarily use CDAF, and apparently the IR assist doesn't help CDAF. I thought the X-T1 did use PDAF in some situations, but it still didn't sound like it's possible to turn the IR assist on. If true, that sucks shooting dark events. The white light is unusable because it's obnoxious to hit performers and guests with the white assist light in dark environments.
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Dec 9, 2015 07:12
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I think LR's handling of RAFs isn't as bad as it used to be from a sharpness standpoint. It's very close to the SOOC JPEGs now. Overall default RAF rendering is still subjectively worse than Fuji's JPEGs, but I only use the RAFs if I'm doing some significant editing so poor default rendering isn't a huge deal to me (and has LR ever been known for solid default renderings? They weren't great on my old Nikon either). I do want to checkout the Iridient Developer (to use as a RAW processor in conjunction with LR) and C1 (as a LR replacement) demos at some point though. I'm a bit hesitant to jump on the C1 train since they've straight up said they have no plans on implementing some processing features for X-Trans RAWs (e.g. auto masking). Personally, I'm waiting to see if Fuji's next gen sensor is still an X-Trans before I consider making any X-Trans related software decisions.
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Dec 23, 2015 06:43
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| # ¿ May 21, 2024 18:48 |
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I have the 55-200 and Rokinon 12 and enjoy them both. The 55-200 has good image quality, acceptable auto-focus (at least on an XT-1) and good OIS. The OIS allows for solid hand-held performance in many situations, though sometimes it does seem like I get different results depending on which OIS mode (continuous vs shooting only) is selected (but this sounds like more of a general Fuji issue than lens specific). I like it for compressed land/cityscapes, getting more detail from far away objects, and it did a great job with wildlife shots when I was in Costa Rica. The 12 seems like a nice cheap ultra-wide alternative to the 10-24 (haven't used the 10-24 so I can't actually compare). I've found 12 wide enough for that ultra wide landscape look, and haven't had regrets about not being able to go wider or lacking zoom. If you want to use G/NDs, it takes the Lee Seven5 filters with zero or minimal vignette, and also is apparently a good astro option (though I haven't had a chance to try this out yet). The lack of auto focus isn't a big deal with this lens because a) DOF is huge at 12mm, especially if you stop down a bit (making it basically point and shoot), and b) the focus assist highlighting makes it easy to quickly hit focus. I've found sharpness to be more than acceptable for landscapes, though it does sound like there can be some copy-to-copy variance with softness in 1 corner when wide open. I've mostly been using it at f/5.6 and 8 and haven't noticed any softness issues.
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Feb 1, 2016 21:26
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