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So do you like photography but feel the need to spend more obscene amounts of money on things like a 400mm f/2.8? Do you want to rip your hair out under lovely lighting at high school stadiums and ice rinks? Do you want to take 300 panning shots only to have about 5 turn out good? WELL CONGRATULATIONS SPORTS PHOTOGRAPHY IS FOR YOU  But DJExile, why should we shoot sports photos? Sports provide a great blend of action, emotion, and crazy  moments that can be tough to find in other areas, short maybe of you screwball journalists who cover riots while trying to avoid tear gas and rubber bullets. There is always something going on and hundreds to thousands of potential subjects are all over the field of play, bench areas, and in the stands. You are very rarely left wanting for good shots. That sounds awesome! But I hear it's expensive and all I have is my consumer-level body and a kit lens!  Unfortunately, yes. By and wide, sports photography is the most expensive realms of photography and you can very easily drop thousands of dollars on equipment. I'm going to hand this list of what you can expect to need over to JAY ZERO SUM GAME posted:You need the following: I would also recommend adding some sort of weather protection if you're shooting outdoor events. The OP-Tech Rainsleeves are cheap as dirt and are fantastic in a pinch. No reason not to have one in your bag. There are also bigger, fancier rain jacket/cover things for your huge "I'm watching you pee from 3 zip codes away" telephotos out there. Consumer-level bodies have improved over the last couple years and you can get some decent shots with them, but you'll quickly find yourself wanting faster AF, faster burst speed, faster glass. Speed is almost always the name of the game in sports photos. Keep a close eye on used listings at places like KEH, B&H, Adorama, Craigslist, Ebay, etc. A good chunk of my equipment nowadays is either used or refurbished, and that can save you a significant amount of money. I found a used 40-150mm f/3.5-4.5 for $110 that served me incredibly well as my first sports lens for about a year and a half. This was taken on an Olympus E-410, one of their most basic entry-level DSLRs.  Obviously costs will also vary based on what you want to shoot. Smaller fields of play like baseball fields (well, the infield anyway), basketball courts, and ice rinks will usually not require anything longer than 100-150mm. Keeping to outdoor events in sunlight will let you get away with things like a 70-300mm f/4.0-5.6, which would be pretty much useless indoors or in bad light.  This all being said, light is rarely ideal and more often ranges between "cloudy but decent" and "GOD DAMNIT THIS loving ICE RINK". You're going to need reasonably fast glass. f/2.8 or better in many cases. Fast primes like a 50mm or 85mm f/1.8 have uses in a basketball or hockey arena, and at field sports they can be good for shots along the sidelines of coaches, trainers, fans, etc. Even if all you have is a kit lens, you can still put it to use in some of those situations. E: I almost forgot: There's no reason to ever leave burst fire, and as such, you are going to fill up smaller cards very fast. I would recommend at least a 4GB card in your camera, with a couple backups ready to roll. I have a 16GB (probably overkill but I got a good deal on it) and 8GB card with me. Having faster speed cards is always nice as well, especially when you're going to be copying them over to your computer, but between the two, capacity is always the priority. OK, so say I get all this stuff and I want to go shoot sports, how do I get in? In drat near anything more official than a local beer-league softball game, you're going to need credentials or permission of some kind. This isn't always as difficult as it sounds. You could work for a school newspaper, talk to league, arena/stadium, school, or team officials. Congrats! Now you have credentials and/or permission! ACT LIKE YOU BELONG. Nobody is going to care if they get in your way, and ushers and managers will toss your rear end out in half a second if you mouth off to them. You're on the low rung of the ladder at these events, that's just the way it is. Being friendly to them (or at least just polite and professional) can make your life easier. Don't lie, don't make poo poo up, and don't be sneaky. 9 times out of 10, a smile and some simple honesty (and a promise to stay out of the way) will get you a lot further in these situations. It bears repeating to ALWAYS WATCH THE PLAY, EVEN IF YOU ARE NOT SHOOTING. I believe you get kicked out of an NFL stadium if you turn your back to the play. Stadiums/teams/arenas are not responsible for you getting your rear end run over by football/basketball players, or if you pull an Ian Laperierre. I'm in! Awesome! Now what do I do? Know your sport. You don't have to be an expert on it, but know where the action is going. If you're at a baseball/softball game for example, you know your attention is almost always going to be on the pitcher, batter, or at one of the bases. A lot of capturing good action is being able to predict it, so stay aware (also because poo poo can come your way in a hurry and it's easy to get wiped out by some 6'5" 300lb lineman chasing after a fumble) of the action and think about where it's going to go. The old rule is "If you see the play in your viewfinder, you've already missed it". After a play is over, don't immediately check your LCD to see how you did. Your pictures will still be there later and in between play is when you can find players/coaches/fans reacting to bad calls, referees arguing with them, a coach giving players advice during a timeout, a trainer taping ankles, a policeman tasering a streaker... there's usually a lot of fun blink-and-you-miss-it moments. Inevitably, you're going to get into a rut after a while. You can only have so many pictures of a hockey player scoring a goal. Think outside the box. How could you use a really wide angle? What about different angles on the play? What if you spent a quarter/half/game concentrating on shots of anything but the players? What about a very high or very low angle? You'd be surprised what you can come away with sometimes. A collegiate dodgeball tournament actually gave me one of my favorite shots ever when I got low and slowed the crap out of the shutter:  OK so how do I need to set up my camera? I don't want to be fiddling with a lot of settings during the game! Again this obviously depends on the sport you're shooting. In almost every case, your first job is to fill the frame. Yes, you can crop out quite a bit on images most DSLRs give you these days, but better to fill it in the first place. What should be in the shot? Well football photographers go by the old "two faces and a ball" rule of thumb, and it usually works well. It's also drat near always better to see faces in your image instead of backs. For metering and ISO, you know your camera best. I use spot metering a lot in hockey because I don't need to properly expose for ice or dark corners of the arena, I'm mostly concerned about shooting the players. At outdoor events, center or full meter shots are probably going to work fine, but again, you know what works best on your camera. ISO always to suit. The lower the ISO, the less noise you obviously worry about, but the slower the shutter speed. Sometimes you can find a good balance. Sometimes (hockey) you just max the fucker out and worry about it later.  In most cases, any human-powered movement (running, swinging, skating, jumping, etc) is going to require a shutter speed of at least 1/320 to 1/400 to freeze it, so plan accordingly. As to what mode to set your camera in, it's up to you. I stick mostly to Aperture priority and that works for me. Others are great about making needed adjustments in full manual, while others who are panning to show motion might have it in Shutter priority. Again, you know what works best for you, but don't be afraid to experiment. I'm deleting a ton of my photos! I suck!  Don't let this discourage you. A lot of times you are going to really be pushing the limits of what your camera can do. You're going to miss focus. You're going to mash on auto-fire for 7 shots and only have 1 that works. Don't take it as a slight on yourself that you're coming away with 10-15 decent shots out of a few hundred. Think of the tens of thousands of photos taken by Sports Illustrated, Associated Press, or Reuters photographers at things like the Super Bowl, Masters, Stanley Cup, or other major events, and you only see a small handful in the paper or magazine. Ask questions! Post what you have! A lot of this thread's regulars are good folks and happy to offer any advice they can. It's also really worth checking out our old thread. There are a lot of good tips in there. I'll post up sport-specific ideas and tips later tonight.
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Jul 6, 2011 21:16
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American Football There's a shitload of things to shoot here. Linemen colliding, WRs and DBs going up for a deep pass, QBs scrambling out of a collapsing pocket, players diving for the end zone, QBs calling out audibles, coaches chewing out officials (OK that's every sport but still...  )The tough thing is positioning. Football fields are often very restricted, and big-time venues like Notre Dame stadium, Ben Hill Griffin (Univ. of Florida), Michigan Stadium, and any NFL field are often locked down tighter than Pelican Bay. Photographers are generally allowed anywhere but the benches (those usually being between the 30 yard lines), so it can be difficult getting the action when it moves to around mid-field. Photographers are usually allowed to move freely to any area they like (NOTE: this may be different in the NFL, I'll let Munkaboo or Eeek elaborate if they would like), although it can be tough dodging officials, TV camera crews, and reporters. You'll need to move quickly, and it's very likely you'll be cramming for position with other photographers. It's possible you'll get bumped around by accident. It happens, and again, a little politeness goes a long way. Ushers don't care who's in the right or who's job might be more important. They'll take any reason they can get to toss someone. The sidelines are going to get you most of your shots. Tons of football plays head towards one sideline or another and you can get some great action headed your way on screen passes, QB scrambles, etc. This also often gives you the best angle on handoffs, punts, kicks, and passes, like so:   These aren't the best shots by any means, just showing off the angle Often overlooked are the end zones, in part because players going for fade routes are headed straight for you at a very high speed, but you can be rewarded with some fantastic shots of players breaking through the line of scrimmage or headed to the end zone.  In almost every case as well, sideline/photo credentials will allow you complete access to the field after the game is over. You can use this to catch shots of players shaking hands, congratulating coaches, band playing the alma mater, etc. HOCKEY I loving love hockey. Fast pace, heavy hitting everywhere, flashy goals, killer saves. People punching people. I loving hate hockey. Awful lighting, maxed-out ISO, nearly impossible to get good angles without those cutouts in the glass. Any of you that can shoot hockey well (or at least have well-lit arenas), god bless you. It is a miserable sport to shoot. These bigass florescent lights you see in hockey arenas and basketball courts are a pain to deal with if you don't have strobes, and everything immediately outside the ice/court is usually very dark. In addition, the masks can make getting faces in focus all the more difficult. So what do you do? Start by accepting the following: There is going to be noise in your images. A lot of it. Programs like Noise Ninja and others go a long way in helping, but you're going to have ISO speeds of 1250 to 1600 at the very least in most cases. You can custom WB for a white jersey, or if neither team is wearing them, WB off the ice, but above all else, DO NOT USE AUTO WHITE BALANCE. Your pictures will either come out dark or tinted piss yellow, neither of which help you. Positioning is much tougher here than in football, as you won't have nearly as many places to use. Benches will take up almost all of one side, and bleachers take care of most of the rest of the space. Obviously rinks can really vary from local places to NHL arenas. Most times you'll want to be around the corners where the goal line meets the boards, in order to get angles of players shooting towards the goal. I was lucky enough to find a point just over the edge of the glass on each side of the ice, offering me a pretty decent view of each zone. Ideally I'd be down on ice level but it's not possible in those areas.   Hockey has a great flow to it, but the players can stop and start very quickly, whether that's from their own agility or running into someone. If you can see some of those moments coming and know exactly when to fire your shutter, that's when you can get the neat looks like the above stick bending and ice shavings kicking up. Thanks to recent rule changes about goalie pad size, pace of the game, etc, goals are pretty common and celebration shots are always a good time.   LACROSSE Combine hockey, soccer, and maybe a bit of basketball, and you have lacrosse. Big open field sport like football and soccer, fast ball movement, big hitting (in the mens' game anyway), and tons of scoring. If you haven't seen a game, you really need to. Both teams benches will be on one sideline, which usually affords you the entire other side to work with, although you can still shoot on the bench sides as well. However DO NOT GO BEHIND EITHER END LINE IN THE MENS GAME. Odds are the referee will stop the game and ask you to move if you do. This is because the ball can easily reach 90-100 MPH when shot (Current record is 111 MPH), and as a former goalie, let me tell you that it does not feel good at all to get pelted. The Womens game does not allow a pocket in the stick so shots are not as hard, but standing behind the net is usually still not allowed. You're going to need longer glass here. A 50/70-200 at the least. Most of the play stays to the center of the field. You can get a lot of good images of players taking shots since they almost always need a good wind-up, so it'll be telegraphed. Players are also rarely left uncovered by an opponent so it's not hard to get images of stick checks, dekes, etc.   The womens game has similar movement but players do not wear protective padding, save for a small visor/mask around the eyes. As such there is no body checking. I also once heard the masks described as "Lew Alcindor goggles", which amused me.   The game isn't quite as fast-paced as the men's version, which can make your life a little easier. I'm not as well-versed with baseball/softball, cycling, racing, soccer, etc, so if anyone wants to do a write-up on anything else, go ahead and I'll add it here. 
DJExile fucked around with this message at 20:40 on Jul 7, 2011 |
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Jul 6, 2011 21:17
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I shoot car stuff, which includes sports/race/track/drag events. If anyone has questions about track-oriented techniques like tracking, panning, car to car, etc...hit me up!      
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Jul 6, 2011 23:01
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gh0st posted:I shoot car stuff, which includes sports/race/track/drag events. If anyone has questions about track-oriented techniques like tracking, panning, car to car, etc...hit me up! I'm going to be snapping some photos at a VW car show later this month and have never done it before. What kind of setup do you generally bring? I bought a circular polarizer filter since it will be during the day shooting. There will be autocross and drag racing events, so I may use it to try out panning. I have watched some tutorials on youtube and the like. Do you basically get a shutter speed fast enough and follow the car's movement? What kind of focusing do you normally do, like should I try one of the modes that does motion tracking or attempt to get the area where I know the car will be going by in focus first or something else? Sorry I am a bit new to this hobby, but any tips or know of any good resources online I'd be interested. I haven't done much of any shooting subjects in motion.
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Jul 7, 2011 00:50
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Honestly the best advice on panning is practice practice practice. Everything is going to vary in speed, and on how far you are from the subject. The good thing is you can practice on drat near anything. Cars driving by, a friend on a bike, etc.
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Jul 7, 2011 01:48
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One of the key things that was posted here a long time ago and I still take to heart is to make sure that your backgrounds are interesting when composing a panning shot. Its hard to get a feel for it but a nice blurry background will really make a big difference. Another thing to watch out for while trying to pan outside in bright sun is that you'll need to be shooting at ISO 100 or 50, around f/22+ to be able to get anywhere near 1/100th of a second shutter speed. ND filters can help some but I honestly never use them. Panning relies on leaving the shutter open a long rear end time but when it's bright outside this can be really really hard. Watch out for dust spots, it can help to make sure your sensor is clean before you go out. The cool thing is that focus doesn't always matter so much. I mean it can, but generally you don't need to worry about setting autofocus and having your camera track with a car. At f/22 you can set something that is kind of close and not have to worry. What determines if something is in focus or not really depends on how well you pan with the object, and when you release the shutter. Here are some panning examples I am going to shamelessly post:   
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Jul 7, 2011 05:55
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Those tips help a bit. So I guess at such a small aperture opening the depth of field is going to be better to begin with. I know at the place I am going they have stands on both sides of the drag strip, and one has more people on it so that might make for a cool back drop. I'll have to go out at some point this weekend and sit on a bench and just track some cars going by. Probably will increase my chances of getting a few good shots.
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Jul 7, 2011 06:08
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Law
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Jul 7, 2011 07:18
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Is that enzo/mc12 shot car to car? Did it get published anywhere with that post??
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Jul 7, 2011 10:45
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What kind of shutter speeds are you generally looking at when doing panning shots? 1/10 of a second? 1 second?
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Jul 7, 2011 13:42
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HookShot posted:What kind of shutter speeds are you generally looking at when doing panning shots? 1/10 of a second? 1 second? It would depend on the speed of the vehicle and how far you were from it, but you're going to be 1/20 probably at the fastest. A full second would be all but impossible without a tripod.
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Jul 7, 2011 14:46
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JHVH-1 posted:I'm going to be snapping some photos at a VW car show later this month and have never done it before. What kind of setup do you generally bring? I bought a circular polarizer filter since it will be during the day shooting. generally pretty good advice already mentioned in this thread. the polarizer will be helpful for the car show portion, for the autocross and drag the panning and tracking will be most challenging. check out the AI SERVO autofocus drive function on your camera, and pick a single autofocus point instead of letting the camera guess between a dozen or so -- sure to be frustrating. you should be able to get decent results with a shutter speed between 1/50th - 1/125th depending on the speed of the cars. the polarizer will work as a bit of a density filter so be sure to leave that on for the panning. make sure you have your legs in a stable position and can rotate freely, and stretch or take some deep breaths before you get started...i find it helps be less shaky. robertdx posted:you'll need to be shooting at ISO 100 or 50, around f/22+ to be able to get anywhere near 1/100th of a second shutter speed. ND filters can help some but I honestly never use them. A5H posted:Is that enzo/mc12 shot car to car? 
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Jul 7, 2011 18:14
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I would give up a kidney to be able to spend a couple weeks shooting at Nurburgring. Is there a better looking track anywhere in the world?  My favorites from a vintage car event I went to last month:    It's kind of interesting to let pictures "sit" for a while and go back and look at them with fresh perspective. These all feel like I've cropped them too tight.. but they seemed okay three weeks ago.
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Jul 7, 2011 19:21
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gh0st posted:
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Jul 7, 2011 19:23
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2nd post updated with some football, hockey, and lacrosse ideas. Anyone wants to do a writeup on other sports, go ahead and I'll add them in.
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Jul 7, 2011 20:41
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gh0st posted:
So how about you explain to me why my advice is bad instead of just bitching at me for the fact that I actually posted some advice. I mean if there is something about the examples I've posted that offends you feel free to tell me why. This forum works a lot better when people come with a constructive mindset. For you to say I'm lazy and that I gave comically bad advice strikes me as unnecessarily abrasive. I like your work, but gently caress off with the negativism.
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Jul 7, 2011 21:32
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robertdx posted:So how about you explain to me why my advice is bad instead of just bitching at me for the fact that I actually posted some advice. I mean if there is something about the examples I've posted that offends you feel free to tell me why. This forum works a lot better when people come with a constructive mindset. For you to say I'm lazy and that I gave comically bad advice strikes me as unnecessarily abrasive. I like your work, but gently caress off with the negativism. I'm not sure what the problem is either. Your advice apparently isn't what ~*THE PROS*~ do, but it'll certainly get some usable results. I'm not a fan of doing pre-focusing like you suggested, but if the gear has trouble keeping up with the cars, it's about the only thing that can be done about it. I suppose this means I have to adblock the reply button too.
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Jul 8, 2011 15:31
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Last Sports thread was fantastic about getting me (and I'm sure, others) to improve with a lot of constructive criticism. I'd like to hope this stays that way and doesn't just become an image dump.  Not saying you have to put critique with every post like in PAD or something, to be sure, but let's try to keep it friendly.
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Jul 8, 2011 16:19
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I enjoy shooting skateboarding. A lot of fun but can be hard dealing with showing up to skateparks and finding them completely empty. It is middle of summer in Oklahoma and hot as hell so I blame that mostly. I feel for skateboarding you gotta get up close and personal and its one of the sports that allow you to be able to do that. Gotta deal also with poor lighting in skateparks at night. Still new to it all and having fun with it. Untitled by jakedropkick, on Flickr  Untitled by jakedropkick, on Flickr  Untitled by jakedropkick, on Flickr  Untitled by jakedropkick, on Flickr  Untitled by jakedropkick, on Flickr  Untitled by jakedropkick, on Flickr  Untitled by jakedropkick, on Flickr
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Jul 8, 2011 17:58
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hhaha I love that kid looking surprised to see you.
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Jul 8, 2011 18:14
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That kid is actually a little shredder, he did a heel flip right into the shot, landed it and tried ducking. He entered a best trick contest and landed this bank gap.  Little Ripper shredding the gnar. by jakedropkick, on Flickr
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Jul 8, 2011 18:32
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robertdx posted:So how about you explain to me why my advice is bad instead of just bitching at me for the fact that I actually posted some advice. I mean if there is something about the examples I've posted that offends you feel free to tell me why. This forum works a lot better when people come with a constructive mindset. For you to say I'm lazy and that I gave comically bad advice strikes me as unnecessarily abrasive. I like your work, but gently caress off with the negativism. xzzy posted:I'm not sure what the problem is either. Your advice apparently isn't what ~*THE PROS*~ do, but it'll certainly get some usable results. I'm not a fan of doing pre-focusing like you suggested, but if the gear has trouble keeping up with the cars, it's about the only thing that can be done about it. Guys it's Syf0n, don't let him get to you. He's been run out of the forums any number of times for starting forum fights with his brother, claiming his mums porsche was his, taking too many close up shots of loving headlights etc.
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Jul 8, 2011 18:40
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There's a skatepark about 10 minutes from where I work that I keep trying to build up the courage to go visit. I'm just not comfortable sticking my camera in someone's business, regardless of whether they invite me to or not. And yet, it's something still on my checklist of things I want to do. Are there any specific techniques to shooting skaters?
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Jul 8, 2011 18:59
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xzzy posted:There's a skatepark about 10 minutes from where I work that I keep trying to build up the courage to go visit. I'm just not comfortable sticking my camera in someone's business, regardless of whether they invite me to or not. Just go and do it, I have never had a skater come up to me and say "nah man I dont want you taking pictures". Technique wise I would say just try not to be all up in their business but do what you gotta do to get a shot. I feel getting lower up underneath them is the best even though I don't follow this always though. I like to get whatever they are doing in the whole shot, like a grind get the whole rail and box its on but dont have the entire park in the shot I guess?
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Jul 8, 2011 22:10
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JAY ZERO SUM GAME posted:What are those orange things in the exhaust? robertdx posted:So how about you explain to me why my advice is bad instead of just bitching at me for the fact that I actually posted some advice. I mean if there is something about the examples I've posted that offends you feel free to tell me why. This forum works a lot better when people come with a constructive mindset. For you to say I'm lazy and that I gave comically bad advice strikes me as unnecessarily abrasive. I like your work, but gently caress off with the negativism.  -focus always matters. offering as advice the idea of focus not mattering is bad. There are better solutions than simply ignoring it. -shooting at the absolute limits of any lens is usually bad. wide open or fully closed you will see imperfections such as chromatic aberration, image softness, and vignetting. Especially true in zoom lenses. -ND filters will help more than just a little bit, they are a comprehensive tool for controlling light and are used in all fields of photography and cinematography. I HATE CARS posted:... 
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Jul 8, 2011 23:21
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I just wanted to say gh0st, your shots are loving awesome dude. edit: I added you as a contact on flickr to keep up on your stuff.
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Jul 9, 2011 00:44
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DJExile posted:2nd post updated with some football, hockey, and lacrosse ideas. Anyone wants to do a writeup on other sports, go ahead and I'll add them in. I could try to do a writeup on association football. Not a pro though.
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Jul 9, 2011 12:27
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azathosk posted:I could try to do a writeup on association football. Not a pro though. Go right ahead!
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Jul 9, 2011 15:08
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DJExile posted:It would depend on the speed of the vehicle and how far you were from it, but you're going to be 1/20 probably at the fastest. A full second would be all but impossible without a tripod.
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Jul 10, 2011 06:27
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HookShot posted:Ok, cool, thanks for this. Gonna sit by the highway and practice panning one day. That's honestly as good a method of practice as any.
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Jul 11, 2011 02:32
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DJExile posted:(Current record is 111 MPH) I had to laugh when I saw this! Rabil's kind of a dick so odds are he'd try and hit you on purpose too This is a great thread and I'm really looking forward to trying some of the techniques you recommended!
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Jul 11, 2011 13:35
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DJExile posted:That's honestly as good a method of practice as any. This is what I did/do to learn panning and like my first time out I got one exposure I felt was halfway decent out of like 200 so dont get to down on yourself if you dont pick it up right away.
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Jul 11, 2011 23:24
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I found some dudes on jet skis over the weekend, but they were too far away and without a zoom I couldn't focus on them. They were just too small for the camera to pick up, and too hard to track. Still have to practice more but this vid was helpful, along with the tips you guys gave: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wI3ca72W3eM
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Jul 12, 2011 01:46
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JHVH-1 posted:I found some dudes on jet skis over the weekend, but they were too far away and without a zoom I couldn't focus on them. They were just too small for the camera to pick up, and too hard to track. It is stuff like this I wanna see in the dorkroom circles.
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Jul 12, 2011 22:49
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Yay, a fresh thread. I shot a three day triathlon series over the weekend. I have the kind of job where you have to take 4 photos of every person in the race. It gets pretty mind numbing, but I have been enjoying trying to find creative shots that I can repeat 400 times per hour. I actually managed to pan on every single cyclist in this race, which gets pretty drat tiring.     There's a whole bunch more on my flickr.
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Jul 13, 2011 05:25
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Oops. Bam! by Michael Appleman, on Flickr
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Jul 15, 2011 01:38
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My job held a tennis tournament for the first time, and I was asked to take the photos. I usually take photos of the golf tournaments we have, but this was a new experience for me. I really wish my 5d mkII had better burst speed. IMG_8961 by SwiftTheFox, on Flickr  IMG_9093 by SwiftTheFox, on Flickr  IMG_9848 by SwiftTheFox, on Flickr  IMG_9771 by SwiftTheFox, on Flickr  IMG_9437 by SwiftTheFox, on Flickr  IMG_9895 by SwiftTheFox, on Flickr That neck!   IMG_8735 by SwiftTheFox, on Flickr
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Jul 15, 2011 23:56
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SwiftTheFox posted:My job held a tennis tournament for the first time, and I was asked to take the photos. I usually take photos of the golf tournaments we have, but this was a new experience for me. I really wish my 5d mkII had better burst speed.] You've got some really nice light in a lot of those pictures, but the background is really distracting... The burst speed is actually one reason I went with the 7D. The dual processors help it save pictures faster, too.
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Jul 16, 2011 03:02
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SwiftTheFox posted:My job held a tennis tournament for the first time, and I was asked to take the photos. I usually take photos of the golf tournaments we have, but this was a new experience for me. I really wish my 5d mkII had better burst speed. Your last 3 are your strongest and the 4th from last could do with a pretty generous crop. Tarepanda is right about the background but that's not really up to you. What were you using?
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Jul 16, 2011 03:36
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DJExile posted:Your last 3 are your strongest and the 4th from last could do with a pretty generous crop. Tarepanda is right about the background but that's not really up to you. What were you using? 5d mkII, canon 70-200 f4, canon 85 f1.8, and a sigma 50mm 1.4
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Jul 16, 2011 03:43
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