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SkunkDuster posted:Is that a reference to the movie House, or something else? This post is not for you.
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Apr 28, 2013 02:21
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Mizufusion posted:Yesterday I was at an outdoor concert in the courtyard between some new restaurants and shops downtown. The area was pretty nice, but the bathroom kind of scared me. I turned the sink on to wash my hands, and the fluorescent lights overhead went dim. At first I figured it was just coincidence, but I turned the faucet off and they got brighter. So I turned the faucet on and off a few times, and the light got dimmer every time I turned it on. I don't want to even know what you have to gently caress up to make that happen.. For some reason this reminds me of that old bit of apocrypha about a floating switch connected to an ancient computer causing it to crash. In your case, though....gently caress. I can't even try to reason that one out, unless there was some sort of electric water pump in play somewhere, or there was some very creative wiring that involved using the plumbing as a ground, but connected it to neutral instead. Or something even more hosed.
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Apr 29, 2013 07:21
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Leperflesh posted:It's called an "autoclave" and it's how you clean surgical instruments. If you just wanted to clean dishes, however, you could dispense with the pressurization, which would make it a good deal safer. Of course, consumers are idiots, so this would never fly unless it had 12 interlocks, temeprature lockouts, and several labels indicating it is NOT FOR CLEANING YOUR CHILD/PET
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May 3, 2013 19:28
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Leperflesh posted:Steam produces lots of condensation the instant it contacts cooler air, though. (You can see this in action when you boil water on the stove: all that billowing white stuff is condensation, not steam. Steam is transparent.) Without pressurization, it's difficult to heat the air up enough to have your steam stay steam as it moves from the heat source, all the way into contact with whatever you're trying to steam. I worded that badly--use low pressure steam, instead of high pressure systems that can result in a jet of steam that maims you from 10 feet away. EDIT: Nevermind, actually--looks like autoclaves use lower pressure than I had imagined.
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May 3, 2013 20:50
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Dragyn posted:While not technically a construction tale, but still crappy workmanship... Doesn't comcast contract all that stuff out to local "professionals"? That's like sub-handyman grade work.
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Aug 7, 2013 01:21
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You Are A Elf posted:My folk's home with splitters upon splitters upon more splitters followed by one more splitter for the modem that's for both the Internet and phones will attest to that list. Just a clusterfuck of cabling and splitters on the outside and inside of their house that Comcast could have resolved both aesthetically and practically with just two more minutes of work and thought. Then my parents wonder why the cable is always pixelating and the modem is always dropping; it's all that loving signal loss from the splitters. I live in a lovely apartment converted from the top floor of a pretty old house. When they installed cable, instead of routing any wires through the walls (which honestly probably have degraded knob and tube wiring in them), they just ran cable along the wall. However, they decided, "hey, they might want a tv in one of a dozen places!" and so installed splitters every 6 feet or so. There were like 7 splitters between where the coax came into my apartment and my modem. I had to take out most of them in order to get up to a decent signal level on my modem.
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Aug 7, 2013 03:32
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SkunkDuster posted:In the banner ads, there is one that shows an interior stairwell that is insulated on the underside, but the link goes to a game thread or something completely unrelated. I'm pretty sure that picture came from a thread in this forum. Is he being mocked for pointlessly overdoing it, or did he do it for a logical reason like he had a bunch of extra insulation and stuck it under there for sound/echo deadening? Let me sing you the song of the Groverhaus... 
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Jan 15, 2014 04:48
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SkunkDuster posted:I'm sort of familiar with the saga of the Groverhaus and the fallout of the thread but I don't recall much about the actual construction or what he did for his name to become synonymous with load bearing drywall. Does that thread still exist, or was it completely deleted? You can google it to find most of the important text, and pics, if you are so inclined. And yeah, hundreds of groverhaus threads have been gassed over the years.
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Jan 15, 2014 05:13
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I'm not an electrician, just an engineer, so it still seems crazy to me that soldering is frowned upon. A proper splice covered with heat-shrink tubing *should* be a great connection. I mean, from a practicality standpoint wire nuts are way easier--only need hand tools, and it's super simple. A soldered joint requires a soldering iron (and a small hot-air gun if you go with shrink tubing). It's also takes more skill to make a mechanically and electrically sound splice. And I guess there's also a risk of cold solder joints (big copper wires are very effective heatsinks, obviously, so you need a big enough iron). I guess I can admit that wire nuts are harder to screw up, but they've always seemed super sketchy to me.
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Mar 13, 2014 14:08
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Tim Thomas posted:The wires themselves put stress on the solder joint without any sort of stress relief, shrink or not. The nut provides mechanical clamping and relief. That's what the splice is for--a proper splice is a solid mechanical connection before soldering.
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Mar 13, 2014 18:53
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Leperflesh posted:Usually fake drawers are put there because there's something behind the cabinet face using that space, like a sink. Putting in something that only goes back a couple inches might actually be a cool thing to do, but I look at a lot of those and think "that's going to get full of splatters and kitchen scraps and then be difficult or (with an electrical outlet) dangerous to clean. Eh, my parents' house had a drawer like that running the length of the two sinks. Instead of pulling out, it was hinged and folded out to 45 degrees. It was pretty useful for storing kitchen gloves, the sink stoppers, steel wool, etc... EDIT: Misogynist posted:The main issue is that most wires aren't rated for repeated movement like that. Something like the cable management arm in the back of a rackmount server that guides the power cable along a predictable path would probably be fine, but I'd otherwise be worried about torsion tearing the jacket right off the cable over a couple of years. Standard power cables are better at handling repeated movement, but you'd still have to majorly strain relief it, and I'm not sure what sort of code that you be breaking to run it to a junction box. Besides, the whole thing seems to be made for charging phones, so it would be way better to install USB jacks directly. You can keep the AC-5V USB mounted elsewhere, and just run the USB cables to the drawer. Safer and easier IMO Slanderer fucked around with this message at 19:48 on Mar 24, 2014 |
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Mar 24, 2014 19:39
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emocrat posted:I too put (actual name brand) Corian in my kitchen, white Corian in fact. It's been 4 years and held up fine. We have yet to find anything that actually leaves a stain in it. Coffee, tomato sauce, wine has all washed off fine even after sitting for a few days. There have been a few times its taken a little more to clean it, but Mr Clean Magic Erasers have worked effortlessly for those times. Mr Clean Magic Erasers are pretty clever. They're made of reticulated melamine foam, so they're basically a matrix of hard melamine fibers that act as both the abrasive and the carrier. Like 3D sand paper!
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Mar 27, 2014 17:06
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Uncle Enzo posted:And to add to the delight, colors are going to be thrown WAY off by cameras, compression, lighting, and display on screens. If she's picky about colors (what woman isn't) I'd be really hesitant to trust her "liking" a color that was digitally reprocessed several times and then displayed on a non-color-calibrated monitor. Ever since I had to get a color calibration tool to match two monitors together (same model, but years of difference in age, which was annoying to see side by side), I've been waiting for a day when having a calibrated screen would make a difference. Maybe some day...
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Apr 1, 2014 03:26
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:What would you think of PVC with a (reasonably thick) copper wire running down the inside? Strip off the shielding from the wire at regular intervals, then at the end of the pipe tie it to one of the anchor bolts (and put a label on it so whoever inherits the place from me knows what it's doing). I'm still dubious about the effectiveness of this. PVC is a really good insulator, so charge should stay fairly localized on the surface of the pipe. There will be some leakage current, but IDK how effective it would be... I just skimmed this now, and it doesn't long wrong at first glance, so take a look if you want a more technical discussion: https://home.comcast.net/~rodec/woodworking/articles/DC_myths.html
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Jun 11, 2014 19:55
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canyoneer posted:The osha.jpg thread just raised the stakes. China?
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Jul 1, 2014 00:36
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Splizwarf posted:Mumbo-jumbo? Isn't it as simple as DC is one-way and AC isn't? So an accumulator/reservoir on one side would be pointless. I just had no idea what to call the AC equivalent solution. v Well, it's sorta complicated  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_capacitor
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Jul 10, 2014 00:38
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kastein posted:So basically in an analog/AC circuit, capacitors don't really do the job you want them to do here, they do a different and just as useful job. What you'd really want is something like a large flywheel connected to a motor/generator that would help handle the inrush current, though there are other products available like soft-start modules. The thing is a capacitor actually is what you want in this situation. A "start capacitor" when added to a motor like this will effectively increase torque when the motor is starting and decrease inrush current through the main motor winding. A switch or relay removes it from the circuit once the motor is up to speed. This stresses/heats the main winding less, which apparently makes the motor last longer. EDIT: There are multiple ways to control switching the start capacitor, but I believe this is the circuit topology relevant here: 
Slanderer fucked around with this message at 02:50 on Jul 10, 2014 |
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Jul 10, 2014 02:47
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enziarro posted:My wife wanted 'whole house' air fresheners that clip on the filter, googling around I found a lady who is Kevin McAllister afraid of changing her furnace filter and advocates stuffing your ducts with old clothes instead I'm no expert, but I feel like if you had the same scent pumped through your entire house you'd probably stop smelling it within a few weeks (unless it was overwhelmingly powerful to begin with), just like people who wear way too much perfume/cologne can't really tell because they've been wearing it for so long.
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Jul 28, 2014 19:19
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Babygravy posted:If the house is old enough to have servants stairways then it probably pre dates construction codes The things I could show you...   
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Jul 30, 2014 03:41
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MrYenko posted:
Yup, same house as the SECRET STAIRCASE. The house was probably really nice a long time ago, but now it's layers upon layers of unlicensed handyman work. The rent is pretty affordable though.
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Jul 30, 2014 04:38
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Nitrox posted:RENTERS INSURANCE. NOW Way ahead of you 
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Jul 30, 2014 05:04
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c0ldfuse posted:I've read of polished concrete counters recently coming in vogue but I'd think they'd even be more porous than granite... I think the polished concrete is treated to seal any pores in the material
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Aug 15, 2014 16:15
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A wet room seems like an absolute nightmare, unless you're living in that one weirdo's conceptual FUTURE CITY where everything is perfectly waterproof and automatic steam cleaning systems deploy while you're at work.
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Aug 21, 2014 15:49
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Parallel Paraplegic posted:That weirdo was Buckminster Fuller and the people who actually used the bathroom in that house said it was a "delight" Nah, it was from some lone dude's conception for the perfect future city, based on 1950's tech, that he preached for decades or something. I only remember details, such as STEAM CLEAN EVERYTHING!, and (somehow) prevent food waste or something by only allowing people to eat at predefined times in giant cafeterias, or something. Really wish I could remember the name...
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Aug 21, 2014 20:47
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Uncle Enzo posted:I think I remember what you were talking about- the whole thing was to be built out of metal, the furniture was bolted down and you weren't allowed to move it, the workers who built it would be paid in shares of the finished project so that they couldn't strike while building? It took me a while to find it, but it was called VICTORY CITY! It was truly a brilliant idea--a 102 story, 3 square mile reinforced concrete wonderland! I just wrote up a big post in the failed thread I made in PYF for the purpose of collecting interesting poo poo like this: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3657842&pagenumber=1#post433854717
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Aug 22, 2014 01:52
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Dick Trauma posted:You mean you still stand to shower? I assume that if the drain got stuck closed on one of these, then the water pressure would prevent grandma from ever opening the door, trapping her in her last bath... that's pretty hardcore
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Aug 22, 2014 18:04
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iForge posted:Was doing some electrical in a house today and came across this gem of a repair under the basement stairs. Yes that is a cracked stringer. Yes that is pipe strapping and a ton of self sealing sheet metal screws. Oh good, i thought it was from an old erector set.
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Aug 23, 2014 03:08
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Crotch Fruit posted:100F is totally the same as 1000F. Seriously, using a hair dryer instead of a heat gun seems like a lot of wasted effort. I've gotten two cheap heat guns over the years, and one broke from a failed thermal fuse, but the other is still going.
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Sep 17, 2014 18:13
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I don't really know anything about this, but I don't really see the harm in not anchoring the post to the concrete. The weight of the deck should keep it in place, with the ability to let things shift a bit if the ground settles later (or the wood expands or contracts).
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Sep 29, 2014 16:48
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Johnny Aztec posted:I appreciate that you are trying to help, and keep me from making a costly mistake, but ya'll need to step the intensity back a couple steps. i have no hostility in my loving heart, but you may in fact be a moron
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Jan 14, 2015 05:13
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Dillbag posted:I have no idea how this would pass inspection, unless you live in Russia or some other hellhole. Unless there's the ability to spray water at the panel itself, I'm not sure there's a problem here... EDIT: I know the NEC prohibits putting circuit breakers in bathrooms now, but without actually looking at a recent edition, I'm not sure if there is anything about *kitchens*. I do know that water ingress is called out specifically, however. Slanderer fucked around with this message at 07:55 on Feb 26, 2015 |
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Feb 26, 2015 07:39
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Wasabi the J posted:Also, it's being blocked. Ah, I wasn't even a paying attention to that garbage can, which technically shouldn't be there. But aside from that, Liquid Communism posted:Yeah, that's a dish sink, I guarantee that panel is getting sprayed on the daily, by a half-soaked guy standing in a puddle and leaning his dick against a stainless steel rail. Eh, I assume that the panel getting wet is more of an issue with damage to the panel (mostly contamination on any electrical contacts), instead of direct electrocution safety---the entire steel panel is grounded (or should be). If a short was somehow caused by sufficiently-conductive water, it would be internal to the breaker.
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Feb 26, 2015 18:44
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Leperflesh posted:Panel gets wet, everyone goes home, a short starts a fire, the building burns down? Honestly, that would be pretty unlikely- I think the bigger concern is corrosion of exposed metal and trapped water/contaminants in the breakers themselves, since that can cause trouble down the line (like a breaker failing to open up).
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Feb 26, 2015 18:59
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gently caress, fine, I actually looked it up. Installing panels in kitchens is not prohibited (you can't have them in bathrooms within "dwelling units" though, but apparently other bathrooms are fine???). I can't tell from the picture, but that panel may or may not meeting the requirements for installations in damp locations, but probably not the requirements for wet locations---that difference is important, because the NEC definitions of those locations are weird and specific (where "wet" can mean "in the loving rain", and "damp" can mean "outside under an awning, but can still get wet"). For "wet locations" you can still have the breaker (no minimum distance from sinks or anything), but it needs to be "weatherproof" (this doesn't mean "waterproof", it just means that the location-specific weather can't adversely affect the function of the device. Basically, you choose the right NEMA rating for the application).
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Feb 27, 2015 23:36
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JET FUEL CANNOT MELT STEEL NONE OF THIS ADDS UP WHY ARE YOU LYING????
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Mar 20, 2015 02:24
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kastein posted:Well, on most incandescents aside from weird ones like quartz halogens and xenon/krypton/argon pressurized bulbs, there's a hard vacuum inside and the issue is gases leaking *in*, but yes. Actually, incandescent bulbs are filled with a low-pressure inert gas. In a vacuum, the filament would evaporate more quickly, so it gets filled argon and nitrogen. It makes the bulb less efficient (and the surface of the glass gets hotter), though
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May 10, 2015 03:56
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Amm, how does "water seeping into beams" mean dry rot? Isn't that NORMAL rot? Not really. Dry rot is just a weird outdated term for wood decay due to certain types of fungi.
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Jun 17, 2015 15:17
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How the gently caress is it confusing? When would you need to specify the pressure rating of a balcony? It's not a goddamn submarine. The reason the unit is the same is because they have the same dimensional units And I hate English units, but pounds-force and pounds-mass are different units. lb vs. lbm. This is not a point of confusion to engineers, because they have different dimensional units Slanderer fucked around with this message at 18:14 on Jun 17, 2015 |
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Jun 17, 2015 18:11
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Bad Munki posted:what about a 400 lbm block of concrete My balcony isn't rated for that.
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Jun 17, 2015 18:15
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| # ¿ May 14, 2024 05:33 |
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Philips head screws are great for cheap furniture assembled by idiots because they will cam out once they are fully driven. With a better bit + power tools, it's super easy to overdrive screws and split the crappy material in your Malm dresser.
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Jul 4, 2015 03:52
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