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GD_American posted:I've got this problem when I forget to to turn on my recirc while cooking anything smokey. The smoke detector is about 20 feet away on a facing wall and very sensitive, and linked whole house. I have this exact problem and it's drat impossible to cook anything on my stove above medium high because the smoke makes my alarm go off and makes me ANGRY About how much would it cost to install an actual hood vent? I think I did a  and it said a good hood is like 3-500. Is the install as simple as running piping up to the attic and venting it out?
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Feb 13, 2012 18:50
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| # ¿ May 2, 2024 23:09 |
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oh jesus, my Home Depot was compromised, too. I just got a new card from the Target fiasco, I hope this doesn't turn into that again.
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Sep 13, 2014 15:37
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So, who wants to inspect my deck? *rimshot* This is the deck that was built onto my house before I moved it. It's made of treated pine. The deck boards were all butt jointed over the joists and were nailed down with a nail gun, so the nail heads were about 1/4" below the surface of the deck boards. This has caused nearly all the boards to split at the ends, and there are a ton of cracks throughout the boards were water has seeped down into the wood through the holes left by the nail heads. I've pulled and replaced a few boards that warped over the past few years and have shot some deck screws into some boards to keep them held down. There have been a lot of deck DIYs on reddit/diy this summer, so I was inspired to get mine looking not as much like poo poo. They're very heavy on code on the reddit sub, so I've been reading a lot about building decks to code and have identified several issues that I believe are not up to code on my deck as I've been pulling deck boards. 1. Stairs  Issues that I know about
2. Ledger board  (Sorry for the blurry image)
3. Girder butt joists 
My concern is that I am likely going to be selling or renting this house next year. I'm assuming that I'll be held responsible for these likely code violations if I sell, and if I rent, I'd be liable if there was injury due to failure from these issues. The stairs I'm planning on rebuilding (new stringers, new posts with footings, new boards, use of joist hangers to hang boards, railing up to code), but the ledger and girders have me more concerned. Is is possible to repair these appropriately without completely tearing the deck apart? I'm planning on removing all the deck boards in order to get them down in a better manner and replace bad boards, so I'll have the joists and girders more exposed and open to repair if need be...
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Oct 5, 2014 21:42
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Motronic posted:If that were the case why aren't you going back after whoever sold you that shitstorm? Yup. This is what I get for being a first time home buyer and using the inspector the realtor recommended... Rookie mistake
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Oct 6, 2014 00:08
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Reading more about my deck, I'm really concerned about the ledger board. Think it would be possible to convert to a free-standing structure? Maybe I should make a separate thread about it?
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Oct 6, 2014 03:25
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Pathologists get to have all the fun.
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Oct 22, 2014 05:31
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Welcome to Part 3 of our 6-part series, "How Lowe's Tells People To Build a Non-Code Compliant Deck"
Laminator fucked around with this message at 14:38 on Oct 25, 2014 |
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Oct 25, 2014 14:00
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In the first video, they attach the boards to the posts by using carriage bolts alone, which then causes the entire load of the deck to depend on the shear strength of the bolts. Usually the bolt won't break, but the load can cause the wood to shred. The proper way to attach the boards is to place them directly atop the posts, either by notching a 6x6 post or by using a fastener for a 4x4. The guardrail posts are notched, which may be code but isn't the greatest way to attach to a deck... It weakens the post and the force applied at the top of the post (where people usually leans) is magnified by through the lever attachment to the deck  In the stairs episode, they also don't place the stringer bases on a concrete pad or compacted gravel. They do attach to posts with footings, but it still looks like the stringers are in contact with the ground. I know this because I'm facing similar issues on my deck and have spent a lot of time reading about and looking at pictures of improperly built decks. This site is great: http://www.nachi.org/deck-inspections.htm
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Oct 25, 2014 15:46
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Motronic posted:This is what we call a "first day expert." I'm not claiming to be an expert by any means, and I'm not saying it's horribly wrong. But this video isn't from 10-20 years ago, it's a few years old, and it's from a big-name store that a lot of people would use as a reference for building a deck. The 2009 IRC codes explicitly state that attaching girders to posts in that manner is prohibited  page 8 of this document http://www.awc.org/publications/dca/dca6/dca6-09.pdf I mean if your local area permits bolting through the post as code, then go for it, but it's not like it takes a lot of special tools or brackets to notch a post Slugworth posted:I mean, it's hard to deny that those are stronger building techniques, but I have literally never seen them used in my area. Plenty of inspected and approved decks around here that are resting on a bolt-carried ledger board. The video shows a free-standing deck, not one with a ledger board. A bolted ledger board is fine. Laminator fucked around with this message at 16:25 on Oct 25, 2014 |
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Oct 25, 2014 16:20
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couldcareless posted:I've only ever used one general inspector and he made sure to go around and do outlet tests on them all. He even did very nice long detailed reports with picture and notations similar to the ones above. Guess I got lucky. The inspection report for my house had all of that, even had some minor stuff about brick repair in the foundation. It didn't include anything about the rotten joists or rafter issues that I have found.
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Jan 5, 2015 23:46
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Nope, they're pretty visible in the crawlspace and attic You just have to actually go into the crawlspace, including some tight fits under the house, and bring some extra boards into the attic to walk on the ceiling joists and look at stuff from a different angle.
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Jan 5, 2015 23:56
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Bring a good flashlight to look in dark areas. Fill sinks and tubs with water to see if they leak (found a bad hose clamp in my place by doing this)
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Feb 14, 2015 23:58
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Maybe it was mixed with heavy water.
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Mar 19, 2015 15:08
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`Nemesis posted:
Thread delivers 555 have my man babies goon sire  This is in my fiancee's sister's garage. That floor drain is the drain for the washing machine, which spews water all over the floor (and electrical extension cord) every time they use the washer. Oh and it's the drain for the hot water tank and furnace.
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Mar 23, 2015 02:32
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I was looking at houses down in Austin and one of them was an old lady special, ugly as hell but looked like it was well-maintained. Thanks to this thread I remembered that some breaker panels were bad, but I couldn't remember which, so I snapped a picture... STAB-LOK 
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Apr 10, 2015 04:23
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Indolent Bastard posted:That is this piece of dogshit to a T I like the dude down in the right pointing at it, "Look at that thing lol"
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Apr 22, 2015 00:57
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Sump pump discharge?
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May 6, 2015 13:20
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Y'all wanna have a memorial day deck party? Just don't get too close to the railings   My neighborhood is ripe with crappy construction fodder.
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May 26, 2015 03:46
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I couldn't get on my roof due to having too short of a ladder, so I figured out the angles of my rafters with a level, piece of paper, and trig. I had to look up arcsine and arccosine because I forgot the names. Ended up being pretty drat close, like 1-2° off.
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May 29, 2015 10:25
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I'm in a rental house now, it's an older home but I'm not sure of the age. There's lots of crappy construction in it (charm, I think they call it), but I'm most concerned about electrical. There's not a single GFCI in the place, including the outlet above the sink. Is this typically something that the leasing company will fix if I request it? I'm getting mixed answers from Google. Texas code, if that helps.
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Jun 7, 2015 05:06
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ductonius posted:In most places changes in electrical code don't mean everyone has to rewire their houses immediately. If an older home has what *was* up to code when it was built it likely remains perfectly legal so long as nobody fucks with it in any significant way, but once work is performed the law likely requires it to be brought up to current code. So, the rental company is going to ask "is anything actually broken?" and when you say "no" they'll say "tough titty" and hang up. That's what I figured, and wasn't 100% since GFCIs are kinda important. I'm just going to install them myself, would have been nice if they would have done it for me. It's tough going from homeowner to renter again.
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Jun 7, 2015 16:44
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Crawlspace or basement? I had some similar multigeneration gently caress ups, it was shocking that the floor was still in place given that it was directly under the bathtub.
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Jun 8, 2015 03:01
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That would be fine assuming that your original joist is a 2x8, though using some PT lumber wouldn't be a bad idea, especially given that it's under the bathroom and may get water exposure. Douglas fir is a stronger wood than Southern Pine or whatever pine species is used for PT lumber, I'm sure someone knows way better than I do on the benefits of each. Typically the procedure is jack the sagging area, lay a bead of construction adhesive along the joist, then hammer or jack the sister in place. You can mechanically fasten it with screws or nails, or use bolts (I held the joist in place with structural screws and then added 1/2" hex bolts, personally). Be sure to not put a screw or nail into a pipe (or you may have to run out of your basement and frantically shut off the water supply and shamefully call a plumber, but I wouldn't know anything about that). Laminator fucked around with this message at 06:52 on Jun 8, 2015 |
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Jun 8, 2015 06:49
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Builders that don't care?
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Jun 9, 2015 20:23
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GFCI installation tales continue Thanks for the extra wiring, guys! Going to have to pigtail on a few more inches just to make this reach the wiring connections on the GFCI.  This switch has perplexed us since we moved in. It didn't seem to do anything, and when I looked at the wiring on it yesterday I got even more confused since it has two hot leads wired to it, with the neutral and ground just pigtailed together in the back of the box. A few hours after I got the GFCI installed, I had a thought and went to look at the dishwasher... it was off. Flipping the switch ON, and the dishwasher light turns on. Apparently it's a common thing down here in Texas 
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Jun 12, 2015 15:33
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I may be (probably am) wrong, electricity is definitely not my strong area and that's why I don't do anything beyond replacing an outlet. Kinda hard to see in the photo, but there are 3 Romex running into the box. One of them is the outlet, simple enough. From the other two, the hot (black) wire from each is wired to the switch, one to the line and one to the load. From those same two Romex, the ground (bare copper) and neutral (white wire) are connected to each other with wire nuts. I am guessing that one of the Romex is from the panel and the other is wired to the dishwasher. I didn't actually disconnect the wires or test what's hot and ground, since I don't have a multimeter or tester. Like I said, I know not much beyond which color wires go where on an outlet and light fixture, so I don't mess around with this stuff since I don't like dying in a fire.
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Jun 12, 2015 16:50
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Mr. Mambold posted:If I'm reading you right: One socket under the sink should be always on for the dishwasher, the other one that is switched is for a disposal. Yeah, and that's how it's been at other places I have lived. But this house has no disposal, and it looks like the dishwasher was added later so they decided that was the best spot to put the disconncect switch. Just in case I wasn't clear, that outlet is one of the kitchen countertop outlets, not an under the sink one. Sorry for the confusion folks, this is why I don't mess with electricity!
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Jun 12, 2015 21:04
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Cleaned out the gutters on the rental place yesterday (pulled out about 10 gallons of compost from them, and destroyed a few thousand ants in the process). I had assumed that the end of the gutter was missing the end plate and needed to be fixed, but then I hosed the gutters out and realized... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LCu4Tz4A5WI (sorry about vertical video)
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Jun 14, 2015 18:22
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Are those 1x4s "sistered" together for the posts? Surprised it isn't built out of pallet wood...
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Jun 24, 2015 13:43
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But the historic value! *pops an aneurysm trying to screech a stuck window open*
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Oct 7, 2015 13:38
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Shifty Pony posted:At least can we all agree that grouted tile is an awful idea for countertops? The house we're renting is tiled with some sort of awful terra-cotta tile and poorly mixed, unsealed grout. It also looks like it was installed by someone with diplopia. It's horrendous. We actually talked about what we would do the make this house better if we owned it, and it basically involved demoing the entire inside and rebuilding it 
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Nov 1, 2015 22:36
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The red roof is new steel roofing. Love that 1x4 with 3 screws in it acting as a structural span in that steel hip rafter (I guess you could call it that?)
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Jun 21, 2016 00:03
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Larry Haun wrote a book about his upbringing, working in the post-WW2 construction boom I'm California, and his general life philosophy. It's not a construction book by any means - actually pretty granola/Greenpeace - but it's worth a read (it's short). He seemed like a pretty level-headed, chill dude, which comes across in his videos. His rafter framing video is great. Sinking 16d nails in 2 swings, framing hips like a boss
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Jul 8, 2016 04:18
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Roofing that was probably a pants-making GBS threads experience
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Jul 11, 2016 18:13
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Motronic posted:
My favorite part was that after some dude on Craigslist took several trailers of the river rock, he tossed the rest into the crawl space of his house. Just...what?
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Jul 20, 2016 01:28
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I can't believe no one has commented on the random 2x4 they somehow attached to the wall/clinging to hold up their shower curtain rod. I'm also real confused as to what the 2x4s they inserted into the walls are actually nailed or attached to
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Jan 11, 2017 16:34
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This is likely a door in a psychiatric ward, so that staff can get access while still giving the patient some privacy.
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Feb 25, 2017 00:09
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| # ¿ May 2, 2024 23:09 |
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Facebook Aunt posted:Can't you just use adhesive hooks? You know, instead of buying a hammer drill. Why would you ever give up the opportunity to buy a hammer drill? Those things are awesome.
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Apr 13, 2017 17:39
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