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Toebone posted:Can I have one? No! They are mine! I think I'm actually going to convert them and throw together another simple 3 burner brewstand and sell them all together. I finally think I'm running out of excuses and it's time to make a pot still with the remaining one, though.  On that note, has anybody ever really talked about distilling in here? Legality issues aside, I know I've seen some pretty horrifying setups posted in the bachelor thread in A/T.
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Nov 29, 2011 05:24
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Paladine_PSoT posted:What an amazing art project let's discuss this thoroughly. Everybody likes copper, right?
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Nov 29, 2011 07:20
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Jacobey000 posted:What state do you live in? (give me ur brewstands) Ohio. I keep planning on making more brewstands to sell, but I'm too broke to afford the steel in the first place 
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Nov 29, 2011 22:40
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CaptBubba posted:I really wish that the manufacturers would just put a "fill to this level" mark on all airlocks. I have multiple styles of the little cap type and they all take different water levels to work right without splashing water out the top. The way I do it is to fill it up to the point where the bobber can move freely without hitting the cap, and bubbles have a short path through the little squares holes on the bobber. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d5TEfB-E6Hs
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Dec 3, 2011 20:48
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As a pretty critical side note, brett isn't a big scary bug. It's just yeast. It dies like everything else. I'm convinced that 90% of people who get all paranoid about separating brett fermenters and sacc fermenters really just have poor sanitation. e: bacteria and the like are different stories, but brett is pretty innocuous. Sour bottle pitches, roeselare, true pedeo/lacto/various brett fermentations I can see keeping equipment separate.
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Dec 4, 2011 02:07
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drewhead posted:You're going to love the extra 3" that adds to your penis. It's important, man. (I use two plate chillers now so I can run them together and get 10 gallons down to 45 degrees for lagering in less than 10 minutes  )
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Dec 5, 2011 22:05
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Jesus christ, somebody used mixer nozzles and didn't just drop them in the diptube?
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Dec 10, 2011 17:50
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mindphlux posted:thanks, I'll take your advice. When I reassemble the keg and sanitize, I throw in about half a gallon of star san, shake it up and then loosen the posts and turn the keg upside down and let it dribble out of the posts and pressure relief, then tighten them back down while still wet. Posts get assembled under star san too, and then the last of the star san gets pushed out under Co2 through the line and faucet. It's ridiculous, but it makes me feel better. I hate infections.
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Dec 10, 2011 22:34
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either I'm insane, or they're insane
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That looks like a pretty great kit, to be honest. It makes me happy to start seeing kits without secondary fermenters. e: and for regular usage, gently caress glass carboys, one of those fuckers almost killed me.
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Dec 13, 2011 05:48
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Midorka posted:What's wrong with a secondary fermenter? Here's the brochure of the kit. I'm going to be splitting this 50/50 in price with my friend and it seems like I won't need anything else. Secondary fermenters are pretty much irrelevant for normal fermentation. They were sort of important when yeast available to homebrewers really sucked. Nowadays, for anything other than some weird situations (sours, fruit beers, insanely long conditioning periods, people who dry hop backwards) it's better to just leave the beer on the yeast in the primary. Lots of people know this, but lots of homebrewing books are stuck in 1985, as well as lots of beer kits. As far as bottle filling, it's probably fine to fill straight from the spigot instead of through some hose and into a bottling wand. It might be a little splashier (which is bad, you want to avoid oxygenating as much as possible) but if you're careful, I wouldn't worry. As for messing up, stir the priming solution in gently but very thoroughly, and measure carefully. Also, iodophor is a great sanitizer, it's just that Star San is better. Foam is wonderful. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 06:02 on Dec 13, 2011 |
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Dec 13, 2011 06:00
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Midorka posted:So basically when I'm filling the bottles I want to go slow and avoid it splashing or coming out fast so I prevent it from oxidizing as much as possible? Thanks a lot for the noob help. My friend was considering bottle conditioning, but we didn't know much about it, now I see it's going to be "easy" to bottle as long as we're careful. Yep, that's exactly it. Bottling really is a piece of cake, it's just bad to rush.
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Dec 13, 2011 06:35
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mindphlux posted:yes this is that one Grow up a starter of liquid yeast, swirl around the carboy or bucket and pitch active, healthy yeast in it and it should be fine. Warm it up to 68 or so if you can as well.
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Dec 13, 2011 22:35
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Toebone posted:Anyone have tips for quick turnaround batches? I'm thinking of brewing up a 2.5 or 3 gallon extract batch for New Years. indigi posted a great 15 minute boil IPA/APA extract batch that I've done a few times and always enjoyed. I do 12ish days fermenting with a large pitch of 001 and force carbonate and drink it very fresh. It could be easily scaled down to 3 gallons. http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?noseen=0&threadid=2984156&pagenumber=458#post395009261 indigi posted:
Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 15:26 on Dec 18, 2011 |
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Dec 18, 2011 15:21
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Jacobey000 posted:Pretty sure I'll be getting a wort chiller soon. I've been looking around and found pretty decently priced Stainless Steel wort chillers. Is there a performance difference between copper and stainless steel? Am lessening my impact of the chiller with stainless steel? I seem to remember that the thermal conductivity of copper over stainless is a very non-issue for some kind if important crazy physics-based reason in a cooling coil kind of design. On top of that, stainless tubing will be thinner than copper but still considerably stronger and easier to clean and keep looking nice. mindphlux posted:uhhh This seems right to me. I have an absolutely gigantic very old chest freezer and a 10" tall uninsulated collar for my kegerator and I was drawing dramatically less power than any other fridge or freezer in my house. It only kicks on a few times a day. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 03:53 on Dec 21, 2011 |
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Dec 21, 2011 03:50
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If you can find one, the way to really rock (if you have a welding store/gas supplier nearby) is to look around on craigslist and find a cheap tank. 10 lb tanks are awesome.
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Jan 3, 2012 05:24
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Plastic Jesus posted:My porter started at 1.08 on the nose and won't drop past 1.024 (been there for 10 days). I was shooting for 1.018 or so, any way to knudge it lower, or should I leave well enough alone? I've tried swirling the carboy to reinvigorate the yeast, but the lazy fuckers are just lying there in the trub. Warm it up a couple degrees and maybe give it another swirl if you're feeling fancy. I have no problem hitting 70-72 when the ferment slows to keep the yeast active. Beyond that, there's not much else to do unless you want to pitch krausen or something to try and get the last tiny little bits of fermentables out. It's also entirely possible that 1.024 is just where it's going to end. 1.080 is pretty drat high OG, and 1.024 is 68% apparent attenuation. What was the yeast?
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Jan 5, 2012 04:39
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If you don't see yourself doing big batches someday (like with a converted keg), the SP10 rocks. Particularly because it has a better burner than the SQ14. The 14 has a very very nice stand and a burner that likes to blow out and lower settings and is a little finicky at higher settings. The SP10 you can just crank up and up and it just gets hotter and doesn't blow itself out.
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Jan 6, 2012 16:34
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This is the stand I built a little while ago. It's stagnant right now though, being broke as hell.    http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3437782&userid=114296#post395897590 Since those pictures, I've added a second pump. I still have a control panel and a RIMS tube setup that I haven't finished building. I honestly don't know if I'll ever bother. Full control is awesome, but 3 burners and direct fired mash is just stupidly easy and easier to clean. I really want to brew soon 
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Jan 14, 2012 06:08
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I've been tempted for quite a while to do a homebrewing miniseries on Youtube. I have good cameras, decent brewstand setup and I'm not 1. 50 years old and inept 2. prone to 45 minute explanations of process 3. creepy 4. HBT stereotype, etc etc It'd be a bunch of fun to do, too.
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Jan 20, 2012 06:08
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I've got two of those super cheap pop up canopy things that I put up in any windy or otherwise crappy weather that help a lot (one goes actually up, the other on it's side upwind). If it's really awful out, I give up and abandon the brewstand and just do partial boil extract batches and have just as much fun I've brewed in the garage before, but my garage is pretty ridiculous and filled with welders and steel and half-apart farm tractors. I'm also a very very wet brewer and I don't think I've ever brewed without getting at least 10 gallons of water and excess runoff all over the ground, so the garage is usually unwise.
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Jan 21, 2012 19:53
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I pitch slightly ridiculous amounts of yeast and generally my final volume starter for most beers is only about 16 hours on the stir plate.
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Jan 23, 2012 04:59
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zedprime posted:Kegs are the cheap part of kegging Not anymore they're not 2 years ago I was buying kegs for $29-34 They're somewhere around $50 now, unfortunately. The price fluctuates a lot.
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Jan 24, 2012 04:35
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Buy some 6ml plastic transfer pipettes, mix 1 gallon at a time with 5.9ml of starsan. I use about half a gallon of starsan for an entire batch from start to finish. Shaking and using autosiphons to pump it around through tubing is the trick. Soaking just uses tons of the stuff.
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Jan 27, 2012 04:43
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e: ^^ Oh hey by the way I should actually be going to a meeting soon and joining. Finally have money, etc etc  Getting in late on the "post your names/labels" thing, but this is my general theme. I never have actual beer names beyond style and version. A porter will end up being labeled Robust Porter v1 or something of the sort. This is my newer applewine label. The beer labels generally are the exact same thing except a shaker pint full of whatever color the beer is, and the rest of the colors are something that fits the theme.  The stupid "clever name" thing is just a placeholder. I don't really know what to put over there. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 14:22 on Jan 27, 2012 |
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Jan 27, 2012 08:00
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On larger beers or 10 gallon batches, I almost always do a double batch sparge. I split the sparge water in half and batch sparge twice. It seems to make a fairly noticeable difference in efficiency.
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Jan 31, 2012 15:04
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Jo3sh posted:This is my usual method also. I have a RIMS setup but still batch sparge. I also runoff the first runnings and the sparge at full speed with a march pump at 2.5-3 gal/min against all conventional advice, so I'm not really to be trusted. I recirculate the sparge for a minute or two and bring it up to temp with the RIMS and then runoff. I did it the exact same way when I was still using propane (and I still just use propane 75% of the time because eRIMS is fiddly). e: I'd just like to point out how much batch sparging and recirculating mash rocks. After first runnings are done, I can have the sparge completely finished and my full kettle volume in about ~8 minutes. The whole mashing process from dough in to single batch sparge to full kettle is probably about 72 minutes. Fly sparging is for chumps. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 18:31 on Jan 31, 2012 |
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Jan 31, 2012 18:25
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The cider and it's applewine buddy that I made in October is now ready to be kegged, carbed and bottled, just in time for next fall 
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Feb 2, 2012 18:49
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e: ^^ A syringe is a good idea and probably a lot easier to measure with than a pipette/dropper/etc. Don't know why I didn't think of that I'm going to repost this every single time anybody new gets recommended to buy starsan. Hypnolobster posted:Buy some 6ml plastic transfer pipettes, mix 1 gallon at a time with 5.9ml of starsan. Hypnolobster posted:TSP, Oxyclean Free and Oxalic Acid are pretty much the only cleaners I ever need, and they're all dirt cheap and hilariously effective. I love it. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 22:28 on Feb 3, 2012 |
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Feb 3, 2012 21:41
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Sounds a little crazy, but craft stores sometimes have them. Pharmacy or medical supply store should have syringes, too. e: I got a gross/144 6ml pipettes off of ebay for like $10 shipped a year or two ago. I made a little holder for the side of my starsan bottles similar to the things that hold the straws on the side of spraycans.
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Feb 3, 2012 22:49
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withak posted:I heard oxygenating it while it is still hot is bad. Leaving the lid off of cooling wort, however
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Feb 4, 2012 18:41
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withak posted:I'm making a porter today and while it is cooling in the ice bath I am going to stir it not-gently and also leave the lid off. If it is ruined then you guys will owe me 5 gallons of porter. For the record, I don't owe you anything if you leave the lid off and it's ruined e: don't sneeze ee: People who use iodophor are weirdos. Starsan is wonderfully safe and easy, and is wonderfully foamy. Hell, I've drank partial boil beers that were half Starsan. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 03:02 on Feb 5, 2012 |
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Feb 5, 2012 02:59
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I've sort of wanted to do a brett porter for a while.
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Feb 5, 2012 03:46
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LeeMajors posted:I always cool outside, with the lid off and have never had any infection issues. You may never notice a problem, but it's a giant vector for infection. The air in a house and outside is absolutely full of dust particles carrying yeast and bacteria, your house probably has some fun little skin cells floating around, your breath is full of tiny particulates of happy little sugar-consuming bacteria, etc. Really, lids are a good thing.
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Feb 5, 2012 04:28
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Josh Wow posted:Anybody that uses an immersion chiller leaves the lid off their wort when they're cooling it, unless they're one of those weirdos that cut slits into their lid for it. I do this every time for 10-20 minutes outside and have never had an issue with infections. I would notice too, almost all the beers I brew are under 5% and I do a lot of lighter styles. There's not a whole lot of room to hide off flavors in an ordinary bitter or helles. Guess who's one of those weirdos
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Feb 5, 2012 17:06
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e: ^ correctTOMSOVERBAGHDAD posted:As a counterpoint: leaving the lid on while cooling promotes DMS in your beer. The DMS-filled condensate will drop back into your beer, and cause off-flavors. Not if you actually, y'know, boiled the wort for 60-90 minutes. You'd have a pretty hard time getting anywhere near the DMS flavor threshold from 15 minutes of chilling wort with a lid on. If you're worried about it, the lid can go on after you've knocked down to ~150 f or so. Above that, short of a squirrel/flies/etc falling into the wort, you're not going to get many beer spoilers that will survive. I still have some issues imagining how people think that 16" of cool wort exposed directly to the air is a good idea.
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Feb 5, 2012 19:55
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Angry Grimace posted:One guy I know took some big wide pieces of aluminum foil, sprayed it down with Iodophor, and wrapped it around the top of the immersion chiller and kettle to prevent stuff from getting in. Cookie sheets!
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Feb 5, 2012 20:17
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Brew in a bag is an amazingly cool method. Despite my giant brewstand and pumps and eRIMS and all that ridiculousness, I love doing quick, easy batches. BIAB 5 gallon on just a turkey burner in a 10g pot is ridiculously easy and simple, and it gets even easier and more ridiculously simple when you do no-chill with a Winpak for a fermenter. I did two BIAB no chill batches this winter because it's been horribly rainy weather for a full brewday. It's awesome being done in ~3 hours, and truly 1 pot to clean, no chiller to clean, the entire brewday's worth of water goes into the kettle at the beginning. It rocks. I finish the batch, it goes into the winpak hot and then I go make my yeast starter and pitch the next morning.
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Feb 7, 2012 02:53
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Scottw330 posted:BIAB might just convert me to all-grain with everything I've been hearing about it. What is the largest batch you could brew with BIAB on the stovetop in a 4 gallon pot? (I.e. what I'm using for extract brewing) I know where to find 3 gallon fermenters for maybe 2.5 gallon batches, and I feel like that is a good amount of beer to get in exchange for several hours of work. You could make it a 5 gallon batch pretty easily by adding extract near the end and then diluting into the fermenter, too. Dukket posted:I mean five gallons of cold pasteurized apple cider (from Grand Rapids, MI) poured into a carboy with a bunch of brown sugar and some Champagne yeast. We tasted some when we racked it and it was not great, but I'm willing to wait it out. Cider generally takes a very long time to condition and develop some acceptable flavor, doubly so if you didn't use any yeast nutrient (yeast sort of hate cider, nutrient sort of helps). It also will more than likely not taste quite like what most people think cider tastes like if you're used to drinking easily available commercial ciders. It will probably end up very very tart and dry. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 04:10 on Feb 7, 2012 |
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Feb 7, 2012 04:06
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If you don't want to spend the money on a ball valve on a kettle, you can also just rack into the fermenter with an autosiphon after you've chilled.
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Feb 7, 2012 07:31
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Midorka posted:In my homebrew group we're doing a cereal competition with random teams. The goal is to make a beer using a cereal in the mash. Does anyone have any good recipes for ones with Fruit Loops by chance? Yeah, if the competition is to make a beer with a good flavor derived or that reminds you of cereal X, then it'd be sort of tough. If the goal is just to make a beer that happens to have cereal in it, make pretty much anything and 8oz of Fruit Loops would pretty much make zero difference in flavor. Actually, if it's the former, then a clone of Leinenkugel's Sunset Wheat would be more than likely a pretty drat good bet. A pretty good majority of the reviews for that beer mention that it pretty much tastes like Fruit Loops or Fruity Pebbles.
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Feb 9, 2012 04:39
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