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I'm going to brew a Surly furious clone, but the recipes I've looked at call for Citra and Simcoe hops. Those aren't available at my local store so I've been trying to figure out substitutions. I figure that I can substitute Amarillo for Citra, but what would be a good replacement for Simcoe? Also, does anyone have any good experiences with cold crashing? It seems like it's only something used to clarify the beer and get little bits out of it. I have a chest freezer that I use for kegging, but I can fit a bucket in there for a few days if it will help.
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Sep 21, 2011 01:30
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I have a high alcohol fermentation that is blowing krausen out of my 3 piece air lock. I've heard of people putting sanitized tin-foil on top and replacing it when things are less aggressive. Am I ok? Also, I sampled my young pumpkin beer and I can definitely taste the pumpkin despite every saying that you can't. It's definitely a squashy taste.
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Sep 24, 2011 18:07
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Josh Wow posted:Northern Brewer is great for extract recipes! I second this. I live a few minutes from their store and use them for all my needs. Everything I have brewed from them has either been great or amazing. Another Minnesota store that I've had luck with is Midwest Supplies. They have their recipe lists posted as well. Brew Your Own usually has extract recipes alongside the all-grain version for their clones. I also did manage to find a free e-book copy of Clone Brews: Recipes of 200 Brand Name Beers. Every recipe was in extract and all-grain.
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Sep 26, 2011 03:04
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I have a keezer with 4 kegs, but I have room for a 5th. I currently have a 4-way distributer and want to add a y splitter because its the cheapest way to add an extra line. Is there anything I should worry about?
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Sep 27, 2011 04:49
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How do people clean their blow off tubes? I used my siphoning tube, because I didn't have anything better at the time and now it's got a lot of gunk in it.
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Sep 30, 2011 18:57
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mattdev posted:Soak that poo poo in PBW overnight and you'll come back to a clean blowoff tube. Thanks, that worked out great. For those of you that brew higher abv beers (7-9%), how long do you usually leave them in the fermenter(s) before kegging or bottling? Is it advisable to leave them in a few extra weeks to let them mellow?
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Oct 1, 2011 20:03
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Where do people buy their hops in bulk from? I'm trying to crunch numbers on buying a vacuum sealer and the hops I'll need for the year. I've looked at hopsdirect.com and they seem to have the lowest prices that I've seen, hovering around $15 a lb. Ebay seems to have a lot of "wet" hops in bulk right now. Has anyone gone that route before?
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Oct 5, 2011 20:02
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I saw this in the coupon and deals forum. Refractometers are on sale. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...ASIN=B000FBL2G0 6 Gallon carboys on sale too. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...ASIN=B002VFXW5W
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Oct 11, 2011 14:51
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Globochem posted:Is this always $30 or is that the sale price? Camelcamelcamel says that it seems to always have been priced that much. It was 28.07 for a while though.
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Oct 12, 2011 20:34
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Prefect Six posted:Bottled my Northern Brewer Black IPA and oh man the hop aroma is great. It tastes great too, I'm so excited to drink this beer! Added bonus my wife gave me the green light on a kegging set up. Savor it. It seems to vanish every time I have friends over.
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Oct 13, 2011 04:44
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While pricing a recipe for a Zombie dust clone, I realized that I can get a lb of citra hops for about the same price as the 9 oz I'll need. What issues are there with adding a lb? Obviously it won't be a clone anymore, but could I ruin the beer? For reference, here's the recipe I was going to use. 6.00 lb Extra Light Dry Extract (3.0 SRM) Dry Extract 70.6 % 1.00 lb Munich Malt - 10L (10.0 SRM) Grain 11.8 % 0.50 lb Carafoam (2.0 SRM) Grain 5.9 % 0.50 lb Caramel/Crystal Malt - 60L (60.0 SRM) Grain 5.9 % 0.50 lb Melanoiden Malt (20.0 SRM) Grain 5.9 % 1.00 oz Citra [12.40%] (60 min) Hops 25.1 IBU 0.75 oz Citra [12.40%] (20 min) (First Wort Hop) Hops 12.5 IBU 1.00 oz Citra [12.40%] (15 min) Hops 12.4 IBU 1.00 oz Citra [12.40%] (10 min) Hops 9.1 IBU 1.00 oz Citra [12.40%] (5 min) Hops 5.0 IBU 1.00 oz Citra [12.40%] (1 min) Hops 1.1 IBU 3.00 oz Citra [12.40%] (Dry Hop 10 days) Hops - 1 Pkgs California Ale (DCL Yeast #S-05) Yeast-Ale 1 Pkgs SafAle English Ale (DCL Yeast #S-04) Yeast-Ale Beer Profile Estimated Original Gravity: 1.066 SG Estimated Final Gravity: 1.018 SG Estimated Color: 9.0 SRM Bitterness: 65.2 IBU Cointelprofessional fucked around with this message at 22:25 on Oct 16, 2011 |
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Oct 16, 2011 20:28
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mattdev posted:All citra hopped beer Widmer's X-114, Three Floyds Zombie Dust, Founders All-Day IPA, and Surly Wet all disagree. I would save the excess hops if I could, but I don't have a vacuum sealer to preserve anything. I would prefer to just use them fresh rather than saving them.
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Oct 17, 2011 04:50
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Northern Brewer or Midwest Supplies. It's mostly because I live near them and can avoid shipping costs. From my own experience and what other people say, they source quality products.
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Oct 18, 2011 20:42
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beetlo posted:Also... it is an extract recipe, but it calls for sparging after the steeping. Is sparging doable with just some pots and a grain bag? You can can soak the grains in another pot and then add it to the mash or you can heat water in a kettle to 170 and pour it over the grains into your mash.
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Oct 20, 2011 00:24
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Jo3sh posted:Amarillo and Citra pellets are up at Hopsdirect. Better hurry, though. I assume that the other varieties are from not fresh because they don't say, "New 2011".
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Oct 24, 2011 19:43
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beetlo posted:I wouldn't be doing extract if I had the proper equipment for mashing and sparging... You're doing what's called a "mini-mash" or partial-mash. You'll get more flavors and convert more sugars by doing this method. It may seem wonky, but there's science behind what flavors/colors/sugars you're extracting by soaking the grains in the water for longer and then using sparge water. Just think of it as a step towards all-grain.
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Nov 6, 2011 05:50
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I have a Russian Imperial Stout that I've had sitting around for the past 3 months and I would like to bottle it and give it away as Christmas gifts. How do I ensure that the bottles carbonate? I don't know if the yeast is completely dormant, but I've heard that I may need to repitch some when I add priming sugar. Has anyone done this or can you offer advice? I also figure that when I give them away at Christmas, I'll have to tell people not to drink them for a few weeks so that they mature more and reach their intended carbonation.
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Nov 27, 2011 18:01
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Smeef posted:Does anyone have experience or recommendations for importing hops/barley/yeast/wort in a cost-effective way without damaging the end product? I know that Japan and Korea have vibrant homebrew cultures, so you may be able to save a little on shipping by ordering from one of their stores.
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Dec 9, 2011 15:46
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I bottled an imperial stout after adding rehydrated yeast and priming sugar to the bucket. I was concerned about bottle bombs because I had never done such a thing before and wasn't sure whether the increased yeast might cause trouble. It's been three weeks and I decided to check on the progress. I opened a 12 oz bottle that I filled near the end of the bucket and poured half a glass of foam. I also opened a 22oz bottle and it seemed a little under-carbonated. I would like to dip the bottles in wax and give them away as gifts, but I don't give to give bottle bombs. I'm thinking about checking a few more to get a wider sample. If I think that they've carbonated too much, is there anything I can do other then perpetually storing them at 54 degrees? Other thread I've looked at say I need to delicately open and drain pour them all.
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Dec 20, 2011 20:32
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TenjouUtena posted:How much sugar did you use for how big a batch? I have always been under the impression that if bottles were going to bomb, they would do it in weeks 2 and 3 of bottle conditioning. I used John Palmer's ratio and did 2/3 cup of white sugar with 2 cups of water. Doing a google search of "when bottle bombs happen" mentions that they can go off months afterwards. I've kept them in a 70+ degree environment so I feel like they would have gone off by now.
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Dec 20, 2011 22:29
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Jo3sh posted:~20% ABV - maybe someone will have a link handy for posting http://www.northernbrewer.com/connect/2011/12/as-real-as-it-gets-19-beer/ Not exactly what you're looking for, but it's a place to start.
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Jan 18, 2012 17:26
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When I was in Hawaii, I had Maui Brewing's delicious Onion Mild ale made with Maui onions. I would like to make my own and am looking for advice. I emailed their brewery, but haven't heard a response so I turn to you. I don't recall the exact balance of caramel, coffee, and chocolate in the grain bill so my plan is to use the Northern Brewer's Caribou Slobber as the base for the experiment. They use Willamette, Liberty, and US Goldings for the hops, but I was thinking of using Chinook instead to compliment the onions with a garlicky and spicy taste. http://www.northernbrewer.com/documentation/beerkits/CaribouSlobber.pdf I don't have access to Maui onions, so I was planning on using Vandalia instead. I was going to roast them in the oven for 30-40 minutes until they're nice and brown and then add half during a mini-mash with the grains and add the rest at the flameout. Help?
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Jan 26, 2012 23:01
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Angry Grimace posted:The bigger problem is that snow banks have a tendency to insulate because the snow touching the sides would melt away and leave an air gap in between the snow and the pot. It's the same principle as an igloo. Seconded. In my experience, snow banks don't work. Using snow in a sink/tub of water is a different story though.
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Feb 4, 2012 01:42
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Scottw330 posted:1. Is there a particular method of using canned pumpkin for an extract batch that works well? I had wonderful luck with using canned pumpkin in an extract batch. I put two cans of organic pumpkin in a baking pan covered in aluminum foil and let it bake at 350* for around 40 minutes. I then put it in a fine nylon bag and added it with my grains and did a mini-mash at 151* for one hour. Despite what most people say about using pumpkin, I definitely tasted and smelled it in my beer.
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Feb 7, 2012 03:22
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internet celebrity posted:I've got some leftover grains from my breakfast stout clone, looking for a suggestion on what to brew with them. I have 7oz chocolate malt, 8.5oz roast barley, 10.5oz debittered black malt, 11.5oz crystal 120. I can pick up some more 2 row. I'm looking for a 3 gallon batch. Any ideas? You've got all the same grains as this. You might as well brew it. I have a carboy of it that I'm going to rack into a keg this weekend. It smells and tastes wonderful. http://www.byo.com/stories/issue/article/issues/258-januaryfebruary-2009/1911-founders-brewings-breakfast-stout-clone
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Feb 8, 2012 16:26
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jwh posted:Outside of improved cooling, I'm wondering what people might recommend for improving my results. Instead of double pitching yeast, you should make yeast starters instead. They're much cheaper and easy to do.
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Feb 9, 2012 15:31
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Jo3sh posted:I did manage to snag a pound each of Citra and Amarillo for myself, but I have not decided what to do with them yet. I've already burned through my Amarillo and have only 5oz of my Citra left. Oops.
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Feb 9, 2012 16:57
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Angry Grimace posted:Now that I've got my all-grain equipment coming, I need to figure out what to make first. Any suggestions on what I should try to brew first - I'm assuming I should make something relatively simple until I get the process down? I did a mighty arrow clone with those hops recently. I brewed it over the summer and loved it.
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Feb 11, 2012 01:53
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Eco RI posted:Has anyone had any experience with Hopshots from Northern Brewer? I talked to the guys at NB as they made an experimental batch using only hopshots. Their conclusion was that they're useful for bittering, but don't add much for aroma or taste. Use them initially, but don't dry hop or anything like that.
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Feb 17, 2012 05:13
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Angry Grimace posted:So what's the point of them then? Just keeping the beer clear? Just a bittering agent.
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Feb 17, 2012 13:49
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LeeMajors posted:Any recommendations for cheap containers housing bulk grain? My gang and I finally jerry-rigged a corona mill. Efficiency was awesome, we just need to get bulk grains and store them appropriately. A free freezer off of craigslist?
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Feb 21, 2012 16:05
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Oops. I misread a recipe and used 3lbs of Amber LME instead of 3lbs of Amber DME. My target gravity was 1.080 and my OG was around 1.065. I couldn't figure out the difference until I went back and checked the recipe. Would it be okay to boil a half gallon with one lb DME and add it? I know the recipe won't turn out, but it would be nice to try and salvage it.
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Feb 21, 2012 19:58
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Docjowles posted:At what point are you in the process? That should be fine unless the yeast have been dormant for days, and even then they might wake back up and eat at least some of the DME. I just brewed it this afternoon. I'll boil that later this evening and add it in.
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Feb 21, 2012 22:15
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Does anyone have any experience brewing with Chili peppers? Some friends and I are going in on batches that are not run of the mill and splitting them up helps if they're not any good. What we're looking at is using a smoked porter as the base beer. We're planning on using chipolte and ancho chili in the mash and dry hopping without the seeds. We'll be tasting along the way to scale the heat, but any advice would be helpful.
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Feb 22, 2012 02:14
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I can't speak to these recipes, but NB has rarely let me down before. The All Grain recipes are listed, but so are the extract and partial mash versions. http://www.northernbrewer.com/connect/2012/02/all-about-stout-the-beers-of-brewing-tv-55/
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Feb 22, 2012 18:23
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Scottw330 posted:I finally learned how to wax and label bottles! Great job, everything looks amazing. I've tried to do the glue stick and crayon method before but when I dunked the tops, the heat would expand the cap off of the bottle and I would get leakage.
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Feb 25, 2012 17:07
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Sirotan posted:Anybody ever put their beer into a minikeg? Like the ones Bell's puts out: This thread should answer all of your questions about mini-kegs. To make them usable requires some work and around $30 worth of parts. I'm sure there are cheaper methods http://forum.northernbrewer.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=61167
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Feb 27, 2012 06:01
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I've been looking into brewing sours and there seem to be a ton of different techniques that you can use, but it can be simple too. I was planning on buying some kits for the first few batches to get a feel for the process before I start following others recipes or making my own. I was planning on brewing a few with a friend using various "bugs" and techniques. The different processes seem to be flexible in a lot of ways even if they're prone to mistakes in others. This guy has been a great resource as he's been brewing and experimenting in a lot of ways over the years. He usually has blogs about each one he does and the process, but here's his retrospective. http://www.themadfermentationist.com/2009/11/brewing-sour-beer-at-home.html I plan on having up to 25 gallons aging by brewing in 5 gallon increments just because the process takes so long and commercial sours are so expensive. Cointelprofessional fucked around with this message at 04:44 on Mar 1, 2012 |
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Mar 1, 2012 04:42
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Daedalus Esquire posted:Oh man, the mad fermentationist is great, I've been working my way through that blog over the past couple weeks trying to learn enough. I suppose I was wrong in using the term tough, but no matter how much I read, it still seems like doing a sour is a total gamble. I probably post things from Northern Brewer too often, but they recently did a sour beers episode on Brewing TV. It starts off with a tasting and then at about 10 min they go into various styles that they brewed along with a tasting. http://www.northernbrewer.com/connect/episode/brewing-tv-episode-49-sour-beers/
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Mar 1, 2012 05:57
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Darth Goku Jr posted:Maple Syrup I've never used Maple syrup before, but I've been looking into it recently. From what I've been reading is that because it's sugar, the yeast will eat it and you may not end up with much flavor. To increase the chance that you taste it, adding it in a secondary or at the end of a boil will increase the chance of getting the aroma and flavor.
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Mar 2, 2012 18:17
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