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How do the labels hold up against condensation?
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Feb 25, 2012 06:42
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Put your growler in the freezer for a while before you fill it. Cold gear is key to not knocking the gas out of your beer.
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Mar 1, 2012 19:59
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The only real problem with those is that there's no regulator, so your beer is generally over- or under-powered. Getting a good serving pressure can be a hassle, especially if some guy walks up and decides to dose the keg because the beer isn't coming out like a fire hose.
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Mar 1, 2012 20:40
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According to the manufacturers, it's good until it goes cloudy, and you can re-use it. Months.
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Mar 22, 2012 23:59
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Can you twist the disconnect on the post? It might just be gummed up a bit and sometimes twisting it around (while holding the lock up) will let you work it off.
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Jul 22, 2012 22:53
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Splizwarf posted:On the other hand, brewer's yeast (from a healthy starter) works for pizza dough and makes a wicked good crust. Tell me more?
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Jul 26, 2012 16:56
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poo poo, for $200-300, you can just buy a keg kit straight up. (Note that the kit prices on that page do NOT include a CO2 tank or kegs.) http://stores.kegconnection.com/Categories.bok?category=*Homebrew+Kegerator+Kits%3ABall+Lock+Kits%3AStandard+Kits%3ABasic+Kits
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Jul 27, 2012 20:47
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For the temperature controller, the Ranco ETC 111000 is <$50 on ebay (patriot supply is the poo poo, $46, free shipping) and I think that's still the de facto standard for kegerator temperature controllers. They're dirt simple to set up and wire. As for the CO2 tank, just don't buy a new one. You can generally get them from your LHBS and they'll handle refills (by way of just exchanging the tank) and hydrostatic testing and whatever. Unless you care that your CO2 tank has a few dings and scratches, in which case, 
Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 21:20 on Jul 27, 2012 |
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Jul 27, 2012 21:16
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I have nothing but good words to say about kegconnection.com, after building my own, helping a friend with another, and having seen multiple people work with them. They're good folks and they'll get you what you need.
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Jul 27, 2012 21:20
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internet celebrity posted:I saw a bottle of margarita mix at the grocery store and briefly thought about getting it and pitching some wine yeast into it just to see what happens. Should I do it? Yes. But it's probably full of sodium benzoate, so nothing will happen.
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Jul 30, 2012 18:39
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The worst that'll happen is you'll end up with yeasty margarita mix. e: stop slacking off, start losing weight
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Jul 30, 2012 18:45
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ChiTownEddie posted:Which external temp controller do you guys use for controlling the fermentation temp in your freezer/fridges? Ranco 111000 is pretty popular for keezers/kegerators in general, and is a good solid product for temperature control. Available on ebay for about $45, requires no modification of the actual fridge.
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Aug 16, 2012 03:40
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Splizwarf posted:For $45, though, it does require that you source a plug yourself, any advice? I was about to pull the trigger on the digital Johnson unit sold by NB. Yeah, you've gotta do a very minimal amount of wiring. Do NOT let yourself be scared off by that. It literally involves getting an extension cord, cutting it in half, and fitting the wires into a couple screw terminals. It's a five minute job, there are super clear instructions included, and if you can operate a screw driver and a pair of wire cutters, you have all the knowledge you need. When that is done, you just plug the fridge into the one end of the cord, and the other goes in the wall, and the ranco sits between and acts as a switch to cut power as needed. The probe just goes somewhere inside your fridge. It's nice because reverting the fridge to its original state is literally just "unplug it from the temperature controller." I like to recommend the ranco because they're popular, and well-tested by brewers. I also have personal experience: I have one, a friend of mine has one, and my father actually uses two to control a couple space heaters in his crawlspace during the winter.
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Aug 16, 2012 17:05
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Splizwarf posted:I am completely comfortable with the work itself but lack of clear well-written instructions is what might me scare off. The instructions included with the ones from patriot supply (via ebay) are super clear, I'll vouch for those. I think they come with the unit itself but I can't say for sure. Printed on glossy paper, so I suspect they are just part of the original documentation. Big obvious pictures with simple instructions make it hard to mess up. I'd post a pic but I have no idea where mine have gone. fake edit: Oh wait, here they are: you want page 4, figure 4: http://www.etcsupply.com/manuals/ranco_etc_instructions.pdf?osCsid=061bd27eaed4e6cd515f2b9e14cb9094
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Aug 16, 2012 17:29
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Someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm pretty sure 7/8"? Or maybe that's the actual dimension of the shank. If so, 1". Do they not have dimensions on their site? You could always call them, they have pretty good customer service. e: They sell 15/16" hole saws on their site billed as the "perfect size for all our shanks," so there you go. Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 20:40 on Aug 19, 2012 |
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Aug 19, 2012 20:36
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wolrah posted:IIRC you can graft a pot plant on to a hop vine and it'll grow. Or it might be the other way around, I don't recall. Okay, you've got my attention, tell me more about these mysterious hopijuana marihops.
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Aug 24, 2012 02:16
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I've never seen a beer line switch like it sounds like you're looking for. The problem with such a thing is that you would have to drain any beer line after the switch every time you toggle it. Why not just get two faucets? On the other hand, if your actual goal is perhaps closer to just being able to carb one keg while serving another, you can just plug the carbing keg into gas, pressurize it, and then disconnect it and let it stew under the pressure until you're ready to swap kegs out. No reason you can't carb at room temp, either, you'll just need the pressure a little higher. But with that mechanism, you can carb as many kegs as you have: just pressurize, and let sit. You may have to re-dose the carbing kegs once in a while, but that's not such a big deal, just re-apply pressure every couple days until it stops taking more.
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Aug 24, 2012 18:30
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Except soda is waaaaay more hugely carbed than beer and thus can handle having a lot more gas knocked out of it. Serving your beer through something like that would probably just make a mess of your beer. Probably.
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Aug 24, 2012 18:51
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You forgot "SWMBO" 
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Aug 29, 2012 20:54
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Sure, but it'll be 80% blacked out redactions 
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Aug 29, 2012 22:28
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:What do you guys use to make your labels? 3"x5" these for my kegs:  And 1"x1" these for my bottles: 
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Sep 6, 2012 02:22
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BDawg posted:Be careful of turkey pots. Many of them are pure aluminum. And?
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Sep 7, 2012 18:53
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Alcohol?
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Sep 7, 2012 19:06
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I assume by "stopper" you mean "bored stopper with airlock?"  Was the beer blasted out everywhere? If not, your airlock was probably plugged somehow I guess. Fix the plug, replace the airlock, put it all back together, and don't sweat it. If there was beer blasted out, clean it up, refill the airlock, put it all back together, and don't sweat it.
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Sep 8, 2012 21:04
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Oh, make no mistake: the beer is definitely irrevocably ruined. The only solution, of course, is to ferment it out, bottle (or keg) it, carb it up, drink it all down, learn from your horrible, horrible mistake, and then try again.
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Sep 8, 2012 21:30
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enthe0s posted:Welp, we already threw it out.  enthe0s posted:Whatever, it was going to be more trouble than it was worth if we were going to have to keep cleaning it up every 30 min anyways, so I'm glad we dumped it.  Also, you wouldn't have been doing that every 30 minutes. If you've got a really active ferment, look into a blowoff hose, as advised. enthe0s posted:There were a lot of things we felt like we didn't do properly the first time anyways (hell we even forgot to take the original gravity to make sure we had the right amount of water in the thing) enthe0s posted:so we can do it even better next time.
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Sep 9, 2012 04:38
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Ubik posted:You haven't truly brewed beer until you've cleaned it off the ceiling. This actually happened with my first brew ever, does that mean I was born to brew? e: Or should I have just thrown it out?
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Sep 9, 2012 04:58
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Yeah, I'm bummed it went down that way. I hope I didn't contribute to the dump too much, I thought the sarcasm was pretty blatant.  I think the best real advice I would give is, "don't discount your beer until you've tasted it And maybe not even then. Unless it smells like rotted meat. And maybe not even then."
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Sep 9, 2012 05:16
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DME ice cream malts are the loving BOMB.
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Sep 18, 2012 18:21
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Not gonna lie: my favorite part of brewing with DME is tonguing the bag after dumping its contents.
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Sep 18, 2012 19:25
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Sure, the first time, but then it's all restraining orders and trespasses.
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Sep 18, 2012 19:52
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Don't bruise the vodka!!
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Oct 6, 2012 19:33
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I don't know, there's probably a market for homeopathic beer.
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Oct 6, 2012 21:31
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The worst thing I can imagine happening is that you end up with trace amounts of wax in your beer.
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Oct 9, 2012 01:51
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Angry Grimace posted:You could always just take the beer off of the gas and wait for the gas to absorb into the beer. Or you could force more CO2 in to press the beer down further and 
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Oct 11, 2012 18:32
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Actually, that's not a bad idea: just use a really long beer line, like 10' or hell, 20', that ought to slow the beer down enough.
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Oct 11, 2012 18:33
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Angry Grimace posted:But then you don't have more gas to put into solution, right? It seems like it makes more sense to do with the gas on. The pressure is high enough that there's all the gas you need in there, or plenty to carb it, anyhow. If you need more, you just re-dose it a bit. Seconding the "just put everything at serving pressure and leave the ones you're carbing alone for a couple weeks," though.
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Oct 11, 2012 21:08
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Super Rad posted:You definitely need the gas on there won't be enough CO2 in the keg to carbonate the beer (not in the tiny amount of headspace) quote:make sure it's as cold as possible quote:30psi
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Oct 12, 2012 05:04
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Feed the yeast throughout? I've never heard of that. My mead came out just dandy without anything more than pitching once at the start, racking 6 months later, and then forgetting about it for a few years.
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Oct 12, 2012 15:54
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| # ¿ May 14, 2024 06:28 |
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Docjowles posted:I haven't made mead myself so I won't say much more, but I've heard from a number of sources that doing several nutrient additions over the first couple weeks can cut out that whole "forget about it for a few years" step. It's good to go after a few months without the harsh flavors people associate with lovely young mead. Well, in my case, the "forget about it for a few years" thing wasn't entirely intentional, I'm just really loving good at not ever seeing things I leave in plain view. My mead literally sat on the wall end of the kitchen peninsula under a brown paper bag that entire time. The paper bag meant it transformed to "meaningless pile" in my mind and then it was three years later. I did taste it when I racked it around the 6-month mark, though, and it was perfectly good then, too. I'm not convinced it actually changed over the following years. However, I do have some small-batch mead plans in the near future, so if feeding the yeast will help, I'd certainly be willing to give it a try. I just don't think it's absolutely necessary, though. 
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Oct 12, 2012 17:01
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