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Prefect Six
Mar 27, 2009

Glad to see the thread back for another round!

Hold on while I think of more puns :negative:

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Prefect Six
Mar 27, 2009

Has BYO gotten any better in the last year and a half or so?

Prefect Six
Mar 27, 2009

indigi posted:

$150? For that? Where do you live?

$150.01 :smug:

No, seriously, where do you live.

Prefect Six
Mar 27, 2009

Finally got around to getting a gravity reading on my CDA/BIPA/whatever. It's at 1.020 with an OG of ~1.063. My OG was pretty far off the targeted 1.075. I didn't warm up the bottles of LME so I think I didn't get as much out of them as I should have.

However, the sample I drew was delicious, if not a bit malt forward and not as much hop character as I would have liked. Eitehr way, it's 5.5% abv, which is plenty for me. I'd much rather it be more quaffable than a huge beer.

I'm guessing starting out at 58 degrees probably held back fermentation a bit. First time using this freezer for fermentation control, so hopefully the next batch will be more on target. I did use a starter.

Maybe I won't try to raise the temp any more and go ahead and dry hop.

Prefect Six
Mar 27, 2009

Actually, at 1.020 should I worry about exploding bottles when I prime? Should I add less sugar?

Prefect Six
Mar 27, 2009

TenjouUtena posted:

What is predicted FG? What kind of yeast did you use? Even if you pull it off the yeast cake, the yeasties will keep eating sugar and making alcohol even if you rack it to secondary, they'll just slow down. 1.020 seems like a high finish, and if you let it drop some more the yeasties will eat up the maltiness.

Are you dry hopping in secondary?

Oh, actually the estimated finish gravity was 1.021 (from BeerSmith, NB doesn't give a FG), so I guess I'm ok. Won't be racking or dry hopping in a secondary.

Yeast was American Ale II. That's still 68% attenuation, so not bad. I did use a starter, but like I said I pitched at 58 deg F.

Prefect Six
Mar 27, 2009

How's this for a recipe:
code:
Wheat Porter (based on tonedef131's all grain recipe)

Briess Golden LME - 3.5 pounds
Briess Bavarian Wheat LME - 3.5 pounds
Biscuit - .5 pounds
Weyermann Caramel Wheat - .5 pounds
Weyermann Chocolate Wheat - .5 pounds

Nugget - 1 oz @ 15
Nugget - 1 oz @ 5

Brit Ale II

Est 1.064 SG, 30.7 IBU, 29.8 SRM.
Any suggestions?

Prefect Six
Mar 27, 2009

Prefect Six posted:

How's this for a recipe:
code:
Wheat Porter (based on tonedef131's all grain recipe)

Briess Golden LME - 3.5 pounds
Briess Bavarian Wheat LME - 3.5 pounds
Biscuit - .5 pounds
Weyermann Caramel Wheat - .5 pounds
Weyermann Chocolate Wheat - .5 pounds

Nugget - 1 oz @ 15
Nugget - 1 oz @ 5

Brit Ale II

Est 1.064 SG, 30.7 IBU, 29.8 SRM.
Any suggestions?

Anyone have any comments on this?

Prefect Six
Mar 27, 2009

Jo3sh posted:

It's not going to be as deep brown/black as I usually think a porter should be. Chocolate wheat seems less dark to me than choc barley malt. It does look good, but I think you will get more like a brown wheat beer than a wheat porter.

Should I add a small amount of black patent to get it darker?

Prefect Six
Mar 27, 2009

So I ordered 2 pounds of grains for my extract wheat porter. Turns out, 2 pounds of grain is a pretty good amount for a cheesecloth bag. Was thinking of doing something along the lines of a BIAB. I've got some paint strainer bags so is the process to just dump them in, raise the temp to 150 and let it sit for 50 minutes or so then pull the grain out?

Prefect Six
Mar 27, 2009

wafflesnsegways posted:

What kind of grains? Some don't have fermentable sugars, in which case you just want to dunk them in hot water for 30 minutes or so, like making tea. Others you would want to mash properly, watching your temps more carefully.

1 pound of chocolate wheat, .5 pounds of carawheat and .5 pounds of roasted barley.

Prefect Six
Mar 27, 2009

Bottled my Northern Brewer Black IPA and oh man the hop aroma is great. It tastes great too, I'm so excited to drink this beer! Added bonus my wife gave me the green light on a kegging set up. :woop:

Prefect Six
Mar 27, 2009

Are ball lock kegs becoming harder to find? Keg Connection wants $50 for used ball lock kegs. They have cheaper 'converted' ones and an even cheaper one with a 'racetrack' lid. I'm pretty wary of going with either of those options.

I could go pin lock, but everything I've heard says ball lock is the way to go, plus aren't ball lock thinner, thus easier to fit more of them in a fridge?

Prefect Six
Mar 27, 2009

Has anyone had any problems with the in-house regulators that kegconnection sells? Not that it's really going to save me all that much money.

Prefect Six
Mar 27, 2009

Alright do you guys think I'm missing anything?

Currently doing 5 gallon batches but hope to move up to 10 gallon at some point, which at the same time I'd upgrade to another two faucets.
code:
Qty	        SKU	Description	Price	Total
1		CO505	A) 5 LB CO2 Cylinder, Aluminum	$59.95	$59.95
1		KP205	O-ring Lubricant, Food Grade	$3.95	$3.95
2		RG501	Regulator Guage Boot (s)	$1.95	$3.90
2		KG101	Cornelius Keg (or Firestone), 5 Gallon, Ball Lock (Pepsi Style) for Homebrew/Soda	$49.95	$99.90
1		HK2200S	2 Faucet Refrigerator Conversion Keg Kit, Standard Kit, BALL LOCK	$125.00	$125.00
2		+FA200-FA101	525SS, Perlick Foward Seal, Stainless Steel Beer Faucet, UPGRADE	$25.00	$50.00
1		DT108	Drip Tray for 4 Faucets, 16" Wide, with drain	$79.95	$79.95
1		SK600	15/16 Hole Saw with Drill Bit	$11.95	$11.95

 
Sub-Total	 
$434.60
ESTIMATED SHIPPING	$0.00
KegConnection.com ESTIMATED TOTAL	$434.60

Prefect Six
Mar 27, 2009

Jo3sh posted:

I'll just put my boilerplate advice on CO2 tanks here:

If you have not already, check the welding shops and such around you to see if any of them fill the bottle you bring, or just do swaps. If they just do swaps, you might be better off buying a full bottle from them rather than buying the pretty aluminum bottle from kegconnection or whatever. The way to know for sure is to find out what it will cost you both ways - to buy the bottle, have it shipped, and then fill it, as compared to buying the full bottle from a local supplier.

Also, if you have space and budget, a 10-pound gas bottle will mean half as many trips to get the bottle filled/swapped.

I've been able to contact two places thus far and both want 85-90 bucks for an exchangeable, 5 pound tank. One place would fill tanks as long as the hydro date was good. I'll keep looking around as none had 10 pound bottles. One place would rent me a 20 pound tank for $55 a year, which to me seems like the way to go unless they have some restriction. It seems asinine that they'd do that but want to charge me $85 plus $11 a fill for a 5 pound tank.

Prefect Six
Mar 27, 2009

mewse posted:

renting that 20lb tank for 3 years will be $165. for the same money you can buy the $85 tank outright and refill it 7 times

Yeah I kind of thought about that after I posted.

Airgas was the one that would rent me the 20 pound tank. I'll keep looking.

Prefect Six
Mar 27, 2009

Any tips for finding coolant lines in a fridge before I drill a hole for my CO2 line?

Or maybe I'll just leave the CO2 tank in the fridge for the time being.

Prefect Six
Mar 27, 2009

It's just a run of the mill stand up fridge. Freezer top, fridge bottom.

Prefect Six
Mar 27, 2009

TenjouUtena posted:

My wing capper gave up after like 150 bottles. I'm not really pleased, but it's bent all out of shape. Anyone have a suggestion for a capper? I'm going to do a bench capper this time, as it seems easier. Going to a keg setup isn't an option for me at this time. :(

I use the bench capper found here. It's worked pretty well for me and is pretty sturdy.

Speaking of kegging, I got my kegs this weekend and started to clean them. I don't have the right deep socket to remove the in/out posts, so going to have to take one to Lowes. Do you guys cut your dip tubes? It seems to be pretty close to the bottom, right where all the yeast would probably settle out so I'm thinking it's necesssary.

Prefect Six
Mar 27, 2009

Jo3sh posted:

If you have a 7/8", 12-point box wrench, that can work too. The 12-point part might not even be necessary depending on what kind of posts you have.


Nope. I suggest you try kegging without shortening your dip tubes for a while, then make the call. I find that by not hurrying my beer out of the fermenter, and cold-crashing for a couple of days before kegging, I don't really have a sediment issue. I might get some mud the first couple of pints, but it stops quickly and I pour clear beer after that. When I open up kegs for cleaning, there's not a giant pancake of goop at the bottom or anything.

Have you had the same experience with IPAs and other beers with lots of hops?

Prefect Six
Mar 27, 2009

Jo3sh posted:

Yes. I use a suspended paint strainer bag in the boil, so hop carryover to the fermenters is very low to none. I could use a hop bag for dry hopping in the fermenters to keep things corralled, but I haven't bothered so far, and I haven't had issues.

Do you re-use the paint strainer bag? I used one for dry hopping my last batch and it just seemed like more effort than it was worth considering they're a little more than a buck for two.

Prefect Six
Mar 27, 2009

My local club is really starting to grow. As such we're looking into getting a tad more organized, so I'm soliciting for the following:

Any advice on running and maintaining a successful club.
Any club willing to share their by-laws to give us a go-by.

Feel free to PM me or e-mail me at username at gmail dot com if you're worried about making GBS threads up the thread.

Thanks!

Prefect Six
Mar 27, 2009

So I made a starter Thursday night and after decanting this morning the slurry I have left is barely enough to cover my stir bar. It was in the fridge for 12 hours or so after being on a stir plate for 24 hours. Did I do something wrong or was this packed of wyeast bad? (I'm thinking I did something wrong)

e: I guess the only way to know for sure is to pitch it and see what happens. Also I hosed up and let my specialty grains get to hot. I think they got up to 180. I thought I had the burner turned down low enough, but welp. BRB, grabbing homebrew and relaxing.

Prefect Six fucked around with this message at 17:19 on Nov 12, 2011

Prefect Six
Mar 27, 2009

Planning out an APA with Rye. Going to use NB's Rye Extract (20% rye). I'm going for rye's spiciness. What would be a good aroma/flavor hop that would accentuate this?

e: Willamette maybe?

Prefect Six fucked around with this message at 02:58 on Nov 16, 2011

Prefect Six
Mar 27, 2009

Prefect Six posted:

Planning out an APA with Rye. Going to use NB's Rye Extract (20% rye). I'm going for rye's spiciness. What would be a good aroma/flavor hop that would accentuate this?

e: Willamette maybe?

I think I'm going to go with Chinook, since I bought a pound of that from hops direct.

What are the chances the Magnum I bought from Brewmaster's Warehouse is still 15.2% AA after sitting vacuum sealed in my freezer for two months?

Here's the recipe.

I'd like to add another 10 minute addition of Chinook if the AA on the magnum aren't quite as high as purported. Really want to accentuate that spicy flavor and aroma. I am trying to stick to an APA BJCP style. Not for competition or anything, just to do it. I guess there's no reason I can't be a few IBU higher than the BJCP really.

Instead of posting I should just open word and start typing to myself.

Prefect Six fucked around with this message at 19:49 on Nov 16, 2011

Prefect Six
Mar 27, 2009

Also: Homebrew Club or Home Brew Club? Homebrewing or Home Brewing? (I think I know Jo3sh' answer on that one)

Prefect Six
Mar 27, 2009

Anyone have any suggestions for this recipe?
code:
Grain Bill:
9.15 lbs NB Rye Malt Extract

Hops:
60 min - .5 oz Magnum (15%)
10 min - .5 oz Chinook (10%)
05 min - .5 oz Chinook (10%)
00 min - .5 oz Chinook (10%)

Yeast:
1.5L starter of American Ale II

Est OG - 1.057
IBUs   - 44
SRM    - 7.2

Batch Size - 5.5 Gal

Ferment @ 68F
Going for an APA style. Should I add some specialty grains? Not sure what would be good to add into it. The Rye Malt Extract is made with Crystal 30, so I don't think adding more crystal is a great idea and I don't want it to be super sweet. Going for spicy.

Prefect Six
Mar 27, 2009

Home Brew Club Members:

I'm running into a wall with finding a place to meet. A lot of the places (restaurants mostly) are saying it would violate their liquor license to bring in outside alcohol for consumption. Has anyone else run into this and have any tips on how to deal with it? I think the place we typically meet is just letting us bring in stuff at risk of their license (which doesn't make sense since it's a shop that exclusively sells alcoholic beverages). However we're growing and looking for a new venue, thus the wall.

For reference, this is in Missouri.

Thanks.

Prefect Six
Mar 27, 2009

Mewse - this is awesome, you are awesome.

Kept calling around and one place said since they let people bring in wine and pay a corking fee, they'd be on OK with bringing in beer (but they're not charging us). I will follow up with whomever is the 'supervisor' and try to make sure.

Thanks!

Prefect Six
Mar 27, 2009

Hypnolobster posted:

It's important, man.



(I use two plate chillers now so I can run them together and get 10 gallons down to 45 degrees for lagering in less than 10 minutes :smug: )

So you run the wort in one plate chiller and out into the next plate chiller? :psylon:

Prefect Six
Mar 27, 2009

Ok having some trouble getting my kegging setup running. Other than a ball lock post that wouldn't fit into the disconnect without some extra force (which I will probably and almost immediately regret) my faucet is leaking. I don't get it. I've removed it and put it back on a dozen times. I followed the directions on kegconnection, but the faucet leaks where it screws onto the shank. If anyone has any ideas I'd appreciate it as I just don't understand how I screwed up screwing the faucet onto the shank so horribly.

e: doing some more googling it appears people of complained of Perlick's teeth not fitting on some (chrome) shanks. Why the gently caress would kegconnection sell me a faucet and shank as part of a package that does not fit?

Prefect Six fucked around with this message at 18:05 on Dec 10, 2011

Prefect Six
Mar 27, 2009

indigi posted:

Get some keg lube and just glob that poo poo on there, fixes 90% of leaks

I didn't quite glob it on, but I added some keg lube and tightened the ever-loving crap out of it and it appears to be holding. After I ran PBW through, purged, added rinse water and started to push the rinse water through I did hear some air noises coming from the collar, but no liquid. I've had it sitting with star san solution in the tubes for the last hour or so at ~20 PSI, so hopefully if it's still leaking I'll be able to see signs of dripping.

Prefect Six
Mar 27, 2009

At what temperature do you guys generally keep your serving fridge?

Prefect Six
Mar 27, 2009

Well I fermented my wheat porter warm, but maybe a little too warm (London Ale @ 72F). It tastes more like a hefeweisen than a porter. It smells chocolate, but has a very strong ester profile (banana mostly).

And today I found a small burnt region on the bottom of my kettle after boiling my Pale Ale. The last time I did that the beer was fairly undrinkable. I thought I had been doing a better job stirring, but apparently I got lax this time. We'll see how it turns out.

Prefect Six
Mar 27, 2009

indigi posted:

Just a heads up, those 6 gallon carboys are back in stock at Amazon for $30 and super saver/Prime eligible if anyone was looking for some early self-Christmas presents. I picked up 3 because I've been thinking about making the transition to glass for a while and now's as good a time as any. $30 6 gallon carboys are a steal even without free shipping. Time to pick up some of those carrying strap contraptions.

Do you have yours already? Do they use a weird size stopper or anything?

Prefect Six
Mar 27, 2009

Alright, so I'm done with brewing beer in the winter until I can get a dual-stage set up. It's too cold in the garage so I put the pale ale I brewed in the coldest spot in the house (which we keep at 68F in the winter), our master closet, and it's bubbling away at loving 76F. The other closets are too small and both bathrooms have windows where direct sunlight would hit the beer. I'm going to end up with another estery mess of a beer that I was really excited about making.

So a fermwrap and ranco are the next two things I buy period.

Prefect Six
Mar 27, 2009

Jacobey000 posted:

For those interested: I am revving up my studies and am looking into BJCP cert - so I made a couple of public lists of the books they recommend and their advanced reading.

Does the BJCP hate Mosher?

Prefect Six
Mar 27, 2009

Darth Goku Jr posted:

drat Mosher and his not being overly concerned about fitting into a specific style by necessity! :argh:

I was thinking more along the lines of Tasting Beer which I think would be an excellent companion for any beer judge.

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Prefect Six
Mar 27, 2009

Anyone have any experience with Ranco temp controllers? Do they have anti-short cycle protection? I know the digital Johnson one does, but it's not dual-stage. I was hoping for a dual-stage with the short cycle protection since I think I've already killed one chest freezer from using the analog johnson controller.

Thanks!

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