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Darth Goku Jr posted:When you say dual-stage, do you mean it can heat and cool if needed? IMO I don't see how you'd need both for a single brew- you either know it'll be warmed or cooled from whatever base temp you're dealing with - and the johnson digital only takes about 30 seconds to change cool/heat cut-in/cut-out. I live in southwest Missouri so we can have pretty large swings in temperature. That said, my garage stays somewhat warmer than ambient in the winter and probably cooler than ambient in the summer. I was also hoping with a dual stage I could keep the beer as close as possible to my target temperature.
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Dec 14, 2011 21:36
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stizu posted:I didn't realize that HBT is a dirty word. Go back a few pages and find the discussion of the HBT thread about adding human remains to beer.
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Dec 23, 2011 19:44
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So I'm looking at picking up a blichmann boilermaker kettle, but wanted to see if anyone had used them and could comment. They seem to be rock solid (and should be fore the price) and I really like the rotatable dip tube, the sight glass and the ball valve that come with it. My other question is it's not too much more money to go from 15 gallon to 20 gallon. I'm wanting to upgrade to 10 gallons, but was wondering if there's any problem with doing 10 gallon batches in a pot that's twice the volume?
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Dec 30, 2011 19:41
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That's good to hear. It sounds like even if I wanted to do 5 gallon batches I'd be ok in a 20, I'd just have to use a glass floating thermometer to watch my steep temp. I'm still doing extract batches, but whatever I buy I want to be able to expand to all-grain at some point in the future. Although right now anything would be better than trying to boil 6 gallons in a 7.5 gallon turkey fryer.
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Dec 30, 2011 20:00
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Carbonation affects hydrometer readings right?
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Jan 3, 2012 03:18
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Bad Munki posted:Definitely yes. A friend who lurks this thread got his four-tap setup through them, and swapped out for a different regulator, perlick faucets, and all stainless shanks. Definitely call them to swap out stainless shanks. I didn't realize it didn't come with them and am kicking myself due to the problems I've had with perlick faucets connecting to the chrome shanks.
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Jan 3, 2012 17:09
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Bad Munki posted:What problems? When I built my bar, I parted it from a bunch of different places and at the time, I ended up with chrome shanks (when I move, I intend to rebuild and replace with stainless just because I don't want to eat any more chrome) but I haven't had any problems with the connections, so I'm curious what you're seeing. The teeth on the chrome shank and perlick faucets don't match up well. It seems a copious amount of keg lube and tightening the ever-loving poo poo out of the faucet sealed it up well enough.
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Jan 3, 2012 19:59
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Josh Wow posted:Yes, pour your sample between two pint glasses about 10 times if you're taking a reading after fermentation has begun. Also make sure to adjust for temperature. By "after fermentation" you mean "after kegging because I'm lazy", right?
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Jan 3, 2012 20:02
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Zakath posted:I think I might have screwed washing yeast yesterday when I took it from my porter and put it into the barley wine I just brewed. I followed this: http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f163/yeast-washing-illustrated-41768/; after about 20 minutes in my carboy, I siphoned the creamy looking middle part of the liquid into the sanitized growler I had on hand, filling it about 7/8 of the way. I then covered it with a piece of sanitized foil, and it sat there. For about two hours while I was finishing the barley mash, boiling/chilling it and siphoning it into my fermenter. The slurry I poured seemed pretty thin, so I plugged the lowest concentration into MrMalty and got about 200ml of slurry (for 2.5 gallons of 1.091 OG barley wine), which I pitched into the wort. If there's no activity after 3 or so days, then panic. Until then it's probably just fine. Josh Wow posted:No, fermentation puts some amount of CO2 into your beer. If you're taking a reading after it's already kegged and carbed I'd be more strenuous about getting the carbonation out. Pour between two pint glasses 10 times, wait 10 minutes, pour another 10 times, wait a few minutes then take your reading. Yeah, I realize. I was just insinuating that I am terribly lazy. But I'll try out your method for sure! My pale ale tastes a little sweet on the end but still tastes good and is very drinkable.
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Jan 4, 2012 00:13
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Looks like morebeer is taking pre-orders for rhizomes. Tempted to order a cascade to try my hand at it. I even bought a book that was supposed to be about growing hops and it had like ten pages. Anyone know of any good guides out there? Really needing some ideas for a trellis and how to cope with growing in the midwest.
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Jan 6, 2012 05:06
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Nvm, found it.
Prefect Six fucked around with this message at 22:29 on Jan 19, 2012 |
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Jan 19, 2012 21:51
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Planning on brewing an Amarillo IIPA. My last Pale Ale I made turned out pretty good, although not much hop flavor. I didn't have hardly any middle hops, everything was 60 or <15 min. and while it had a good nose just not hoppy enough flavor for an American Pale Ale. I've got a 30 minuted addition on this, but please comment if you think things should get moved around. http://hopville.com/recipe/1107001/imperial-ipa-recipes/500kv-iipa Beer Calculus is giving me way lower IBU's than Beer Smith (beer smith says 116), although in beer smith I moved 6 pounds of the LME to a 15 minute addition, so maybe that's it? The AA is the same both places, and I'm actually using less hops (.5 oz at 30 and 15) in Beer Smith just to stay to style.
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Jan 23, 2012 02:21
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kitten smoothie posted:Did my first yeast starter last night. Mine only goes for about 24 hours and then I put it in the fridge for another day and decant. Always have had a very vigorous fermentation.
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Jan 23, 2012 02:22
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poo poo, I am planning on dry hopping two ounces of amarillo. Forgot that, sorry. This beer will use half of my amarillo for the year though  But I wanted to do a big all-amarillo beer and this should do it.
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Jan 23, 2012 03:02
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indigi posted:I think the optimal time for a yeast starter is 40 hours to reach maximum growth I always wondered, if I put the yeast starter in a sealed, temperature controlled fridge/freezer where there is a finite amount of oxygen is this a bad thing? I imagine the answer is "the yeast will never use up the amount of oxygen in 15+ cf of air". Also how long is LME typically good for? I'm looking at buying $30 worth of Northern Brewer's Gold LME, but it'd be another $50 minus future shipping for triple the amount (which I guess is only a $10 plus shipping a time or two's savings). If I store it in a fridge or freeze it would it last for 3-4 months? Prefect Six fucked around with this message at 04:58 on Jan 23, 2012 |
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Jan 23, 2012 04:55
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100g of DME per liter for starters right?
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Feb 3, 2012 02:41
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Josh Wow posted:Anybody that uses an immersion chiller leaves the lid off their wort when they're cooling it Wait, they do? I've always slid the lid over most way to keep dust or other particles out. Obviously you can't cover 100% since the tubes stick out of the pot, but.
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Feb 5, 2012 19:08
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So I picked up a KAB4 burner and got to use it this weekend. HOLY poo poo is that thing amazing. Brings 5 gallons up to a boil in no time and is easy to maintain a vigorous boil with the flow turned down to minimum. Definitely worth the money and I'll be able to use the burner it if I ever build a proper brew stand.
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Feb 6, 2012 19:19
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rage-saq posted:Yes buy a KAB6 if you have the budget. The SP10 is also a good lower budget item. I used one of those for a long time but wish I had some KAB6 heads on my brewstand. I believe the KAB6 has the same burner as the KAB4, just a bigger stand. Both are 30 PSI jet burners that have the same diameter, but the KAB4 lists it's BTU output whereas the KAB6 doesn't. Pretty sure they're the same burner, which is why I went with the KAB4 since it's cheaper and by the time I can't fit my pot onto the stand that comes with it I hope to have a stand built.
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Feb 7, 2012 00:59
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RiggenBlaque posted:Here's a neat little paper on the oxygen permeability of different airlocks from the Better Bottle people, if anyone is interested: Well poo poo I just switched to the plastisol topper with a thermowell to use with my temperature controller. Oh well, hopefully the positive pressure will keep most of the oxygen out.
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Feb 15, 2012 04:41
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TenjouUtena posted:I was more trying to reassure icehewk that he didn't _need_ to go drop another $70 in order to make good beer. Like all hobbies, there's always another $70 to spend, to make better beer if not just because ~*~gadgets~*~.
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Feb 17, 2012 02:28
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Union Jack is so freaking good, anyone have a clone recipe they really like?
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Feb 19, 2012 03:45
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gently caress you Josh Wow, now I want to go buy a pin even though I'd be able to use it maybe twice a year and it still probably all wouldn't get drank. You are seriously the worst addition to this thread. By this thread I mean my bank account.
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Feb 27, 2012 19:41
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Jo3sh posted:This is one of the areas where kegging shines. It's easy to transfer beer off the sediment into a fresh keg for a road trip. If you don't need a full keg, growlers are easy to fill and carry along in a cooler. Do you up the pressure on the gas the night before you fill growlers? I filled one once and brought it to a club meeting and it seemed pretty flat. Of course the beer foamed up quite a bit while I was pouring it from the tap into the growler. How do you dispense and gas at a party? Do you have a 20oz party set up like Kegconnection is selling?
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Mar 1, 2012 19:58
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Trane posted:Keg shell: $55 (deposit my friend paid, if you do this only use large brewery shells, not craft - think Bud, Miller, Coors, etc.) This is still a pretty lovely thing to do, no matter what brewery.
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Mar 5, 2012 19:53
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Splizwarf posted:Why is that lovely? If $55 wasn't a reasonable price for a used keg, the deposit would be higher; since you get it back when you bring back the keg, they could make it $100 or $300 or whatever if they needed to without causing you any greater loss in the end. For example, tool deposits are usually the retail price of the tool. Because it's basically stealing. Putting a deposit down for a keg knowing you're just going to keep it is stealing. Doing this not only gives home brewers a bad name but it increases costs for breweries which you, the consumer, will get to see down the road. If you buy it off Craigslist or whatever, ok, but just be aware of what you are doing and try to be somewhat ethical in your actions. If people keep doing this we'll just wind up with $200 deposits on kegs which I don't think anyone wants.
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Mar 5, 2012 21:13
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Trane posted:
That's a pretty poor attitude. Maybe poo poo places like HBT will encourage this sort of thing, but new or not, I don't think you'll find anyone here telling you what you are doing isn't stealing and isn't a crappy thing to do, both ethically and for the hobby. If that makes you upset then I don't know what to tell you.
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Mar 5, 2012 21:19
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What do you think LeeMajors meant when he said "cheap"?
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digitalhifi posted:On the topic of paying the deposit and keeping the keg: Good for HBT. I think the case we're talking about is specifically putting a deposit down with the absolute intent of not returning it. My wife's brother-in-law had a renter who skipped out on him and had left behind an empty keg. I told him he could try to return it to the brewery or if he wanted to try to recoup some of his loses (the renter tore up the back yard among other things) he could scrap it. Not the most ethical thing to do, but give the situation I can understand him wanting to get some money back (of course now he's thinking about keeping it and starting to brew  )Basically there's always gray areas. If you can't return it like in the case above or your case, then yeah I think it's better to use it for a hobby than scrap it, but getting one through a deposit not in good faith is lovely. As is suggesting other people do it.
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Mar 5, 2012 23:36
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Trane posted:Already posters have disagreed with you, so I'm not the only one. You don't like my attitude, yet you jump on me for stealing without any other content in your post. I don't support HBT or read their forums, this is what I've been told from multiple local homebrew stores in Seattle. I didn't get a keg for the sole purpose of keeping the shell, this came from my friend who had it for almost a year and it was obvious he wasn't going to return it. Uh no one has disagreed with me and just because I called you out for suggesting to someone that they "steal from big breweries, not craft breweries!" doesn't mean my post didn't have any content. I also don't see how your local shops suggesting you steal makes it any more ok. If that's how you came by it, then ok. I don't care how you got your shell. I care that you suggest to another person and others who may read this thread that it's totally cool to rip off breweries by entering into an agreement not in good faith, but only if it's one of the big boys. I'm saying it's not and you're getting red in the face about it. E: oh Ajaarg 
Prefect Six fucked around with this message at 23:49 on Mar 5, 2012 |
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Mar 5, 2012 23:46
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Trane posted:Great, glad you feel better about yourself after getting on that soapbox. Again, I've been away from the thread for a long time, offer up some feedback regarding multiple ways someone can get a keggle and rather than start a discussion about the pros and cons of getting a keg shell your first response is "You're a thief." Pardon me for being a little bothered by that. Welcome back goon buddy! 
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Mar 6, 2012 00:22
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Bleston Humenthal posted:Wrong. Take advantage of poor contracting practices. They'd do the same for you! This is a pretty lovely thing to do. 
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Mar 6, 2012 04:49
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Daedalus Esquire posted:Has anyone here started a homebrew club or run a homebrew club? I've checked around locally, and it seems like any clubs I can find listed near me are pretty much defunct. Our club started out as me and another dude getting together to talk about homebrewing a couple times and then added another guy. It stayed pretty small for a while and then we had an explosion this fall. We decided to organize the club and pass bylaws. We looked at several different club's bylaws and created a document that worked for us. I'd start slow, just advertise and see who show's up. We've actually had a dropoff in participation it seems since we finalized the bylaws and started taking dues. I wasn't able to go to the meeting last week due because I was sick, so I'm not sure if more people were able to attend this month. We also had to do a sudden change in venue since the place we were meeting closed down. Just get people together and try to talk about what they want out of it and go from there. If you want to ask specific questions feel free to e-mail me - username@gmail.com.
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Mar 16, 2012 18:22
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Angry Grimace posted:http://www.sandiegobeerblog.com/2012/03/23/white-labs-tasting-room-now-open/ That would actually be really neat and educational.
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Mar 24, 2012 05:29
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Any britgoons in this thread that can recommend a good place to get equipment/ingredients? I've got a buddy in the USAF that is stationed over in your neck of the woods and is wanting to get into the hobby, but I have no clue where to tell him to look for stuff. If there's a decent sized place that does a lot of online business similar to Northern Brewer that'd be the best so I can go through their catalog and send him a shopping list. They live in Bury St. Edmonds I think? Any input would be appreciated.
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Aug 12, 2012 15:27
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Kaiho posted:I buy from Brewuk.co.uk. Not the level of selection of northern brewer but pretty much anything I've needed. Thanks! It looks like morebeer ships to APO addresses but not sure how well that would for ingredients.
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Aug 13, 2012 15:59
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Has anyone read "A Brewer's Guide to Opening a Nano Brewery" or "Cellarmanship"?
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Aug 15, 2012 03:05
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Josh Wow posted:I've read Cellarmanship, it's a great book about learning all things cask-related. Is it only about casks or does it talk about storing bottled beer, etc.?
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Aug 15, 2012 13:29
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Check kegconnection.com, they sell a hole saw that's appropriate, but I think 15/16" is right.
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Aug 19, 2012 21:43
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WaterIsPoison posted:I'm looking to do a starter for the Northern Brewer Black IPA extract kit. It has an OG of 1.075 and I'll be using US-05. The problem is that I don't have a stir plate. Will I need to adjust my starter to account for the fact that I'll only be doing manual stirring periodically? You're in for a treat, that kit is 
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Aug 21, 2012 02:10
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So I've had a smack pack sitting in my fridge for a while with a manufacture date of 03/12. I'm thinking of doing a 2L starter tonight and then a 4L starter on Thursday. According to Mr. Malty I'd have to have 2 packs in order to get enough yeast, but I should be able to use the slurry portion of the calculator to judge if I've grown enough, right? If after the 4L starter I don't have enough slurry do I just make another 4L or 5L and pitch again? Prefect Six fucked around with this message at 16:13 on Aug 21, 2012 |
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Aug 21, 2012 13:50
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