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I have a beer problem I could use some advice with. I brewed a stout using extract and steeping grains. Prepared a yeast starter which was active and all looked OK, but fermentation was extremely slow. From an OG of 1.060 on October 24th it took almost 3 weeks to get down to 1.020, another few days to 1.016 and it's now, after a month in primary, at 1.012 which is around the target FG. However, the sample I took has also developed a slight sour taste and a smell that seems a lot like the "green apple" scent I've been reading about as characteristic of acetaldehyde. That wasn't noticeable with the last sample a few days ago. This is the second beer I've brewed, the first was fine and the batch after is currently conditioning with no apparent problems. I've been making wine for several months with no contamination issues either. I think my cleaning and sanitisation is OK, although I guess there's always a chance I slipped and allowed an infection somehow. From what I read I have a few options, assuming it's not a bacterial infection. I can leave it longer and see if it clears up, maybe it's still fermenting. I can pitch some more yeast to try and boost fermentation and clean up the acetaldehyde. I can bottle and leave it for a while, hoping it clears up with age. I can add some metabisulfite (I've got plenty anyway from wine making) to kill any infection and bind the acetaldehyde to the sulfur. But those options are at least in part contradictory and I don't have much experience here. Any thoughts?
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Nov 25, 2018 04:38
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Thanks for the replies! I'll check SG again tomorrow and if it's stable probably prime and bottle then and hope for the best. I use a lot of the same equipment between wine and beer so cross contamination is conceivable, but I don't think I did any wine stuff within at least a week of the beer brewing so I think it's unlikely. Good to know about for the future, though.
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Nov 26, 2018 03:06
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It'll probably improve with age, mehall. I posted a while back about a stout that tasted green - after a few weeks in the bottle it still had a bit of the taste, but overall it had mostly blended in and it was a lot better. Still not sure exactly what I did wrong there, but the beers I've made since haven't suffered the same problem. Last couple days I've been worried about a ginger beer that wasn't bubbling any despite using a healthy seeming starter of EC-1118, which has always been really fast starting for me with wine. Just now I checked it again, there was some positive pressure in the airlock but still no blubs. Pressed the airlock in a bit to seat it properly and now it's pushing 2 bubbles a second, so I feel pretty stupid. I want to bottle while it's still somewhat sweet (around 1.022 would give me just under 5% ABV), let it carbonate and then pasteurize. Anyone had success with heat pasteurization? Homebrewtalk seem keen on it for cider - heat water to ~80C and then add bottles for ten minutes - but I'm a little nervous about heating carbonated glass bottles like that. big scary monsters fucked around with this message at 05:59 on Feb 4, 2019 |
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Feb 4, 2019 05:52
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I'm feeling a lot more chill about long stays in the fermenter now. I left the ginger beer I brewed a while back in primary two months longer than planned because some other stuff came up, I finally got around to bottling it a few days ago and it tastes fine and seems to be carbonating OK. I was worried the yeast might all be dead or there'd be off flavours from the ginger and spice bag staying in so long but I guess I should have known from wine that yeast can lie dormant longer than you'd expect and stuff under airlock and CO2 doesn't go bad so easily. The weather has been warming up a bit so looking forward to trying some in a few more days. Only downside (?) is that I originally intended to bottle while there was some sugar left and then pasteurise after carbonation, obviously it was completely dry after so long so I had to backsweeten and it's more like 6-7% ABV than the 4.5% I was targeting.
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Apr 7, 2019 04:30
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I've made a nice graf a couple of times already and was thinking of mixing it up with some cherries this time around. My previous (extract) recipe has been steeping 250g of Crystal 240 in 5l water before a 60 minutes boil with 1kg Bavarian Wheat LME and 18g Pilgrim at 30 minutes. Then I add that to 15-16l of apple juice (has about 100g sugar per litre) and ferment with SafAle US-05. Both times I've had an OG of 1.052, it fermented out to 1.006 the first time (when I used Munich LME) and 1.003 the second. It's come out really drinkable after a couple weeks in the bottle, quite dry and tart but surprisingly easy going for the ABV. With the cherries I want it a bit lighter and fruitier so I'm going to substitute the Crystal 240 for Belgian Abbey Malt (~17°L), the Pilgrim I think for some Hallertau Blanc I have left over and likely use a saison yeast. I was thinking of going for around 125g/l cherries, maybe leave the pits in too, but I'm not sure how/when to add them. My LBS suggested just chopping them up and adding them to the primary, and seeing if I get any interesting funk coming through - they even suggested not pitching anything to start and seeing if I get usable wild yeast from the fruit. Online sources I've read variously recommend freezing, boiling, adding to secondary once ABV is already above 4% (I wasn't really planning a secondary with this batch), adding to hot wort, blending with StarSan (!) and a whole load of other stuff to minimise infection chances. Any thoughts or recommendations on the recipe and method? If I try out the spontaneous fermentation do I need to lower the pH to stop nasty stuff growing?
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Jun 17, 2019 17:26
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Thanks for the response, that all seems pretty reasonable and I'll most likely go ahead with something like you suggest. I wouldn't mind giving spontaneous fermentation a go at some point but from the reading I've been doing it sounds like I might want to allow extra time and the possibility for some trial and error, and for this batch I think I'd prefer a reliable result. It's a quick and cheap recipe that I like drinking so I'm sure I'll have plenty of opportunity to experiment further in the future.
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Jun 18, 2019 09:10
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Drone posted:Since I don't speak Dutch, think I'd have better luck calling them in English or German? Both are fine for me, and their shop is in all three languages, so Most Dutch people speak English and international sales will do guaranteed. Much fewer speak German but you might have luck if they specifically aim to sell to Germans. I guess try whichever you prefer on the phone and see if they reply in kind, you'll find out soon enough! Alternatively just speak German with a heavy English accent and you're about 90% of the way to Dutch already.
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Jul 9, 2019 09:54
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thotsky posted:I don't really know what to think of the way kveik is being advertised. Yeah, the beers traditionally made with it are fermented very warm, but those beers are very far removed from mainstream craft beer, and can contain flavors I don't think most drinkers would consider good. Does a warm fermented kveik produce an American IPA of the same quality as a temperature controlled US-05 ferment? If so, who's to say that's down to the kveik, and not just that the overton window on what is acceptable yeast characteristics in an American IPA has shifted? Maybe other conventional yeasts would produce beers that are likewise acceptable at those temperatures. If you haven't seen it Lars Marius Garshol has a sparsely updated but fantastic blog about European farmhouse beers in general and Norwegian ones especially. Lots of trip reports, traditional brewing processes, history and commentary, and he's made several posts about kveik in the last year. Might be some answers for you there and it's an interesting read in any case if you're into that stuff.
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Jul 22, 2019 18:59
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Speaking of kveik, my GF came home from a walk today with a bunch of mjødurt (meadowsweet, in Norwegian literally "mead herb") and says that there is a ton of it growing nearby at the moment. I've been wanting to try a brew with it for a while, and was also wondering if it might be an opportunity to try a kveik. I haven't used either before, though, or tried any other gruit. I'm limited to extract brews with speciality grains, any pointers on building a recipe? Or any tips on using meadowsweet or kveik?
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Jul 24, 2019 19:28
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Jhet posted:Read http://www.garshol.priv.no/blog/393.html and other things you can find on the strain you have. Most tend to want nutrients for worts under 1.060 sg and most like to ferment warmer. Also, underpitch by quite a bit. The yeast registry there has pitch temps for most of the strains and it's good to keep it warm afterward. I haven't used meadowsweet, but it sounds interesting. That's really helpful, thank you! Ironically it seems like it's much quicker for me to get hold of Wyeast or White Labs strains than actual farmhouse yeast despite living in the Norwegian countryside, but I'm going to check some local forums and see if anything else is easily available.
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Jul 25, 2019 16:26
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I brewed the meadowsweet kveik I was planning tonight (thanks Jhet for the tips, I ended up just going with White Labs Opshaug because my LBS had it, but handy to know about other sources in the future). I can tell you that the meadowsweet smells incredible during the boil. For a 21l batch I ended up using 105g of dried meadowsweet, and another 30g fresh flowers for good measure. I also found some yarrow growing near me and added 20g of fresh leaves and flowers for 20 minutes. We'll see if it turns out drinkable in a few days I guess. Couldn't find any juniper locally for the authentic Norwegian farmhouse experience, but I'm keeping an eye out when hiking so I can try a juniper branch infusion some time. Also I posted a while back about an apple beer I was making with cherries in the fermenter. Ended up with about 1.5kg of pitted cherries (from 3.3kg with pits and stems) and the beer came out a beautiful pinkish colour with a nice cherry aroma, but the cherry flavour is very subtle. I think next time I'd probably go with at least 2.5kg in the fermenter to get a stronger flavour. It was extremely drinkable for 6.5% ABV. Actually all my grafs have been tasty and very easy drinking - I definitely recommend trying it as a quick, cheap and easy beer to drink while you have something more involved ageing. big scary monsters fucked around with this message at 02:13 on Aug 7, 2019 |
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Aug 7, 2019 02:10
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I'm moving house soon so I've been bottling some wines I made last year, they've been in glass carboys for 12 months or more with occasional rackings. One of them was a milk wine which I've successfully made before - last time it came out a bit like a rich sherry. I think I left too long on the lees before its second racking, and it now smells and tastes distinctly of cheese. I've already bottled it so I guess I'll let it age a few months and see if it gets any better, but overall I think this is not a flavour profile I'm looking for.
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Sep 22, 2019 00:20
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gwrtheyrn posted:After that I'm not sure how I want to add the earl grey flavoring. From what I can tell there's basically 2 ways to add the flavoring--actually making the tea and adding it after fermentation or if only the bergamot flavor is desired, add the flavoring via extract or essential oils. Right now I'm leaning towards diluting some essential oil with neutral spirits to make my own extract since it seems more repeatable. Does anyone have experience with this particular flavoring? I think it's been discussed in this thread before but I can't remember when it was I made an Early Grey apple beer recently. For a 25l batch I stewed 25g of loose tea in 500ml just boiled water (if you boil the leaves it'll be a lot more bitter) for five minutes, strained and added it into the primary. The flavour came through in the finished beer as a subtle citrus/floral aroma and aftertaste and it nicely smoothed out the tartness from the apple. If I did it again I'd probably up the amount I used slightly - maybe 35g total for that batch size.
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Sep 25, 2019 14:49
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Ethics_Gradient posted:I've also got some red wine yeast I'm not doing anything with, any cheap and dirty recipes I could try with supermarket fermentables (fruit juice, etc)?
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Oct 1, 2019 21:38
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Flint_Paper posted:Hello thread. Jack Keller has a recipe for jalapeño cooking wine that might be a useful starting point. If you want to make an actual drinking wine I'd consider using some sort of fruit with the chiles. And if it turns out undrinkable you could always turn it into vinegar. e: forgot to post the link https://winemaking.jackkeller.net/reques32.asp big scary monsters fucked around with this message at 18:25 on Dec 18, 2019 |
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Dec 18, 2019 17:37
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I siphoned my beer into a secondary five days ago and checked it today to find these weird whitish rimmed bubbles on the surface, more concentrated around the edges. (open in new tab for huge) It's a pretty straightforward extract APA. 12 days in primary until fermentation seemed mostly done, dry hopped in primary for another 3 days, then I transferred it to secondary to leave most of the solids behind and let it clear up a bit. It's been releasing occasional burps from the airlock since then - I assumed that was just because the yeast would have come into contact with some oxygen on transfer, but now I'm wondering if something else has infected it. Sample tastes pretty "green" which it didn't when I last tasted it on Feb 26th, but no other noticeable off taste. Any ideas?  When I took a sample the white specks turned into cool motion blur looking smears on the surface around where I dipped into it.
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Mar 8, 2020 17:49
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nullfunction posted:Quit opening it is a good idea. Yeah I only opened it to check if the SG was still dropping or if it's ready to bottle. Glad to hear it looks normal to you two, thanks for the reassurance. I've not seen that before so late in fermentation, but then I haven't had fermentation unexpectedly restart like this before either.
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Mar 8, 2020 18:28
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My local brewshop is also still open, but have posted that they've had a big increase in orders and are taking a few days to fulfil them. I've just bottled a batch of cider and have a beer coming up to bottling, but I think I'll be in need of booze in the next weeks and months and am planning a couple more brews soon.
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Mar 19, 2020 18:03
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thotsky posted:Will be doing my second Kveik beer next weekend. Going to put a lot of honey on it, and some foraged flowers. Meadowsweet, I think.
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Jul 13, 2020 15:13
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I'd like to try the meadowsweet in a more conventional beer too. The batch I brewed before, I'd only made one other unhopped beer and it was my first time using kveik, so I was probably messing with too many variables at once.
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Jul 13, 2020 15:28
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Jack Keller (who sadly died recently) often provides in his recipes higher sugar content than apparently appropriate for the target ABV because he anticipates that you'll be topping up with water at racking. He does suggest topping up with a similar wine otherwise, but if you don't have an extensive country wine library on hand like him that seems a little impractical. I sometimes make my must with a litre or so extra and keep that in a separate container for topping up. For the first racking I don't worry too much if a bit of sediment comes along - a bit of lees is supposedly even beneficial in younger wines - but I'm more careful in later rackings. I prop up one side of the container so it's at an angle and aim to keep the racking wand intake at half the depth of the wine (adjust as you go). Did your pear wine drop clear, Sir Lemming? Did you fine it to get it to bottling so fast? I started a pear wine too around the beginning of August. I've racked once so far but its still pretty murky - I don't expect to bottle before next spring.
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Oct 6, 2020 00:49
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Sir Lemming posted:I would be shocked if I were doing it right. The last time I did it, I only had one container for the whole thing and didn't siphon (I poured it all directly from the bucket, through a funnel with a sieve, into bottles). This time I added a secondary fermenter and a siphon. I'm not sure if/when I'll expand my repertoire beyond that. I wasn't sure how long to wait; I was waiting for a while for the bubbles to go away but they never did, which I think was the first thing I asked about in this thread. I took gravity readings to make sure the fermentation was done and then went ahead and bottled. Waiting longer didn't really occur to me, honestly. I wasn't trying to imply you were doing it wrong! Just asked because my pear wine seems like it's going to take a fair while to clear and I wondered if yours had dropped clear faster of if you'd just decided to bottle cloudy. Nothing wrong with that, I've definitely polished off a couple batches of wine while they were still raw and bubbling because I just wanted something to drink soon.
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Oct 6, 2020 22:50
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Nice piece of fish posted:Bottled my cloudberry mead. Potential disaster. I don't know what or why but it came out very dry and just highly acidic. Ended up around 16% abv which is a 1% higher than expected, and had a bad case of pectin haze... But after bottling it cleared almost completely in a week. I don't get it. I cold stored it for a week. Anyway, might as well store it for a while and see how it goes. I think cloudberries are a little tricky, I made a cloudberry wine and it tasted somewhat harsh and "hot" even after dilution to 12% and a year in the bottle. Could be they just really need to age, or maybe some extra back sweetening? I didn't really manage to pick any this season so I have to wait until next year before I can try again. 
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Oct 26, 2020 11:46
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I'm looking for some tips in adding oak chips and coffee in beer. I got some medium toasted French oak chips and tried them in a wine I made - I put 50g in a mesh hop bag, added 200ml boiling water, let it cool and added a small amount of potassium metabisulphite and soaked overnight. Put the chip bag in 10l of wine the next morning, and 24 hours later there was already more than enough oak flavour. Probably too much oak - it's a somewhat light berry wine and it would probably have worked better with a more powerful red. I was thinking of trying a 25g dose in 20l of a kettle soured Flanders red I'm planning. The wine was already sulphited and stabilised and also around 12.5% ABV so I wasn't too worried about infection, but I assume a K meta soak will be enough to prevent any infection in beer too. I also have a nice chocolatey stout currently in secondary and want to add some coffee flavour. I've seen people suggest using cold brew, which seems nice in that it would let me figure out the right ratio of coffee to beer with a small sample volume. Others seem to swear by either whole beans or coarse grounds in the fermenter for a few days - then I suppose I'd have to open the beer and taste it daily which I'm not so keen on. I could either StarSan wash or sulphite the grounds, or hope that the alcohol (about 6.3% ABV) is enough to prevent any residual bugs on them from growing. Anyone have experience or favourite methods with either additive? big scary monsters fucked around with this message at 02:52 on Nov 12, 2020 |
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Nov 12, 2020 01:41
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I've also got a batch of Apfelwein on the go at the moment - I used a combination of brown sugar and light syrup. It's been going about 3 weeks and is still actively fermenting, but I'm in no big rush. Planning to add some cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, maybe star anise, and make a mulled apple wine.
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Nov 20, 2020 20:02
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Huh, I didn't realise it was so low. I carbonate hefeweizen to a little above 3 volumes, but I also use flip-tops so I expect the seal would fail before the bottle would go pop.
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Nov 20, 2020 20:47
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That's reassuring, because I added priming sugar to a batch about an hour ago targetting 3.2 volumes and I was just about to start bottling when I read your post! I don't like to go higher than that with this beer anyway because I had a batch where I didn't dissolve the sugar evenly enough and ended up with a couple bottles that sprayed the ceiling on opening.
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Nov 20, 2020 20:59
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I typically use a 30l primary bucket for 20l batches so I haven't had to try them, but you can get anti-foaming agents that are meant to help. Soaking in PBW solution before sanitising has yet to fail me for cleaning tubes. You can get a pipe cleaning brush if you've got stuff really caked on and run that through a few times with the PBW.
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Dec 9, 2020 16:03
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Nice piece of fish posted:Got a bit of a different issue, I'm trying out a conical fermenter for a christmas mead project and the temp in my (I'm starting to realize) insufficient fermentation chamber is uneven, too warm up top and too low at the bottom. I used a slightly old yeast and it's going slow. It's going, but it's visibly so slow I'm worried it might stall. Rather than do the obvious (make a new one, buy more equipment), which won't help me now, I thought of a good idea: take off the yeast collector in the bottom, pitch the small trub there again, swirl it a bit and leave the bottom bit dry and the valve closed. Maybe a bit late to ask for this particular batch, but did you put plenty of silicone tape on the threads? My Fastferment conical came with a whole roll of tape and instructions not to stint - and after the first use I put on more because the threads cut through most of the layers I'd used. To save this batch though, could you not just get a cheap bucket fermenter and siphon the mead into that before messing with the stuck yeast collector?
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Jan 3, 2021 00:24
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I use a secondary sometimes - I think it's really useful if you're making a beer with extra stuff in primary like dry hopping or a fruit addition, or even just beers that have really big krausen or you want a very clear finish. I'm sure it's possible to avoid getting crap like that in your bottles, but when I siphon straight from primary I always end up with some of that stuff floating about, whereas a few weeks in secondary generally gives me a much cleaner beer. Might also be a holdover for me from winemaking, which I did before starting with beers, where you rack a number of times and don't bottle until your product is absolutely crystal clear and there are no lees visible at the bottom of your vessel. I don't do it with every beer, though. Something like a weißbier where the style is young, yeasty and hazy it would probably harm the finished beer even leaving oxidisation aside.
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Jan 16, 2021 21:53
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I've had really good success with extract grafs as a way of using super cheap apple juice (I use the cheapest one from Coop Extra: ~12NOK for 1.5l), surprised to hear it turning out badly for you. My basic recipe: 1.5l (1 carton) apple juice yeast starter (usually US-05, but a cider yeast gives you more of a classic sharp cider taste if that's what you're after) Steep 250g medium crystal malt in 5L water @ 68C (I've used various different ones depending on what my LBS has - Crystal/Caramel 240, Caramunich, Crystal II) Add 1kg LME to wort, bring to boil (typically Munich, but I've had really nice results with wheat LME too) Boil with 6.5 AAU noble hops for 30 minutes Irish moss and yeast nutrient @ 10 minutes remaining Cool and add to 16.5L (11 cartons) apple juice in fermenter Pitch yeast, total volume in primary will be maybe 21L SG 1.050-52, ferments out to about FG 1.005 Bottle when done at 2.4 volumes CO2 I've played with fruit additions and they've turned out alright but you really need to add more fruit than you think or you'll end up with just the barest hint of it there. My favourite addition is to boil 500ml water, stir in 25g loose-leaf Earl Grey and stew for 5 minutes, then strain, cool and add to primary. Give sit a really nice floral, herby edge. I've made a variation on this recipe maybe 10 times and it's always turned out well - easy to drink, chills well, basically just a nice session beer that's not the most exciting, crazy flavours but way better than just a straight cider from such cheap juice. big scary monsters fucked around with this message at 23:25 on Jan 16, 2021 |
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Jan 16, 2021 23:04
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I've made straight cider with the cheap juice and it turned out drinkable, but pretty one-dimensional and boring. Got a little bit better with age. I think to make it both tasty and cost-effective you really just want a friend with an orchard; good unfiltered apple juice here is expensive enough that you might as well just buy commercial cider. Another possibility: I have an Ed Wort's Apfelwein type brew going at the moment that I also used cheap juice for, with some added brown sugar and light syrup. I used CL23 (which I believe is more or less EC-1118) and even though it's only 3 months old at this point it looks and tastes like a proper farmyard cider: orange, cloudy, with a slight silage/rotten apple aroma. I grew up in cider country and consider that a plus, but your preferences may differ.
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Jan 16, 2021 23:34
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Probably fine, almost every fruit I've used in beer looks like that after a couple of days.
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Jan 26, 2021 13:06
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Mr. Wiggles posted:Hello, homebrew thread. I'm sure this has been answered a zillion times before, but if you would indulge me please. I'd second K meta. powder, I've used that for all my wines and never had a problem like you mention. You can mix up a 10% by mass solution in water to make it easier to measure out. If you use potassium sorbate be aware it is intended to be used as a stabiliser with potassium metabisulfite, not by itself. Bottle pasteurisation is possible, I have done it once and it worked fine, but I was scared the whole time that I was about to spray a bunch of glass shards and cider all over the kitchen. I used my electric brew kettle and got the water temperature up to 80C, turned off the heating and put the bottles in for 15 minutes. Remove the bottles (with gloves!) and bring back up to temp for the next batch, repeat until done.
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Feb 21, 2021 22:45
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After about four months in secondary, my Duchesse de Bourgogne clone (kettle soured with White Labs Belgian Sour mix 1) has in the last few days developed what appears to be a white mould on top. The bacteria I used should be long dead since they were boiled and hopped after kettle souring. The carboy I was using for ageing had some air gap, but I assumed that the CO2 produced during secondary (i.e., with yeast) fermentation would keep it anoxic, and I haven't opened the airlock in months. I'm guessing whatever is floating on top is probably not good to drink, and without a culture and lab analysis I guess it's hard to know exactly what it is. Should I consign it to the drain?
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Mar 24, 2021 03:04
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Yeah I should have included photos.  I would say the area covered has doubled since yesterday, when I first noticed the problem. I don't check on it very often so I don't know when it first showed up. Honestly I can't tell if the smell is off since a couple days after I inoculated it with the souring mix the smell was just overpoweringly awful. I almost threw up when I boiled it, it was so sickly-sweet from the bacteria. Now it just smells like beer with a slight remnant of that bacterial odour. e: Pillow Armadillo posted:If you succeed with a Duchesses clone or have the reliable recipe, would you be willing to share it? It's like my white whale of clone beers. big scary monsters fucked around with this message at 04:06 on Mar 24, 2021 |
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Mar 24, 2021 03:52
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Well, good to hear it might not be a complete disaster! I suppose I'll give it a taste test before I decide whether to bottle it or chuck it. I think next time I'll just wait it out and go with a conventional sour. The cultures I could get hold of at my LBS were a bit limited and this was my first attempt at a sour beer so I didn't really have an idea of what was best for kettle souring. I'm a big fan of sours in general and Flanders reds in particular so I'm up for giving it another shot and ordering a more appropriate culture from further afield next time. I can't really describe the smell at boil beyond incredibly, horribly sweet - it didn't smell like vomit but I was pretty close to doing so. Do you have any suggestions on removing the infection? Skim it off, siphon and leave the top couple centimetres?
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Mar 24, 2021 04:33
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Thank you for the advice! I'll check the taste later and see if it's salvageable, and plan the next one.
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Mar 24, 2021 13:07
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I also mix a sugar solution into the beer for priming and have occasionally had uneven batches where some bottles are barely carbonated and others are gushers. I've taken to leaving it for an hour or two after stirring in the priming solution to give it more time to diffuse evenly - you aren't going to lose a lot of CO2 in that time - and it seems to have helped. If only some of your bottles are gushing then uneven mixing may be the problem.
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Mar 31, 2021 20:46
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You usually use pectic enzymes when making fruit wines to extract more flavour and combat pectin haze, no reason it wouldn't work with beer too. It might not fall completely clear since secondary is usually shorter than the time a wine spends bulk ageing, but it should definitely help.
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May 28, 2021 17:43
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