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The closest thing for a replacement of Simcoe is Citra, and for Citra is Simcoe. Which is to say there is no replacement.
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Sep 21, 2011 01:36
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wafflesnsegways posted:Sorry - to clarify, what would a recipe for an imperial red ale look like? Like a less hoppy IPA, maybe, or a strong malty beer that still has some hops? Pretty much the same as an Imperial IPA but there is going to be some dark crystal and/or tiny amounts of some kind of black malt.
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Sep 22, 2011 02:30
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tesilential posted:I have a Belgian beer, a dubbel I suppose, that began life at 1.072 OG. it's 75% pils, 15% dark candy syrup, 5% Munich II, 5% crystal 40. I used wyeast 3787, Westmalle's strain with a 2L starter pitched at 68*. What did you mash at? Any nutrients? The westmalle strain is a big beast and needs nutrients to get a good healthy ferment, but hold on adding any oxygen or it gets too clean. 1.017 is definitely a lot higher than what I would expect from a grist like that unless you mashed at 154 or so.
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Sep 23, 2011 01:34
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Josh Wow posted:Hey Rage-Saq where do you get your D1 candi syrup? I'm doing a quad soon and my lhbs is out of the syrup they carry, and the syrup at northern brewer has 2 bad reviews saying it's not very flavorful. http://www.candisyrup.com/ I'm using 2lbs of D90 and 1lbs of D180 the next time I brew (and the reverse, 2lbs of D180 and 1lbs of D90 the time after that). Their stuff is top notch quality. I do 3 weeks in the conical, letting it get up to at least 80f. I also crash cool it and get a pretty clean rack to keg. They don't get a very clean rack which is why the "lagering" (maturation) is at 50f for so long is so it gets the yeast to drop out as the Westmalle yeast is not a particularly good floccuator. In a purged keg I usually pressurize it and let it mature at fermenting fridge temp (58f-60f) for at least 4 weeks. Check https://www.thesaq.net/beer/recipes (not fancy looking yet, I'm working on an index page and other stuff) it has my quad recipe that I'm brewing in a week or two and its called The Pious.
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Oct 5, 2011 17:20
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Josh Wow posted:Thanks for the info. I was planning on just doing 50/50 pale/pils based on Brew Like A Monk and some old posts of yours I dug up. Do you like the version with more specialty grains significantly better? I've done it a ton of different ways, this is my current recipe for the pursuit of quad perfection. I've done it with the 50/50 pale/pils based on BLAM with and without decoction, I've done it according to some clone beer book that was all specialty grains and some simple sugar but both of them lack something and I've done some other crazy poo poo. The best one I've ever done was my very first batch of it which was the specialty grains version, in a blind quad "competition" (9 entrants, check HBT for some details) it beat a Westvleteren 12 by a hair but I've never been able to really recreate it. Not sure what I did about it that was so awesome but it really captured all of the flavors the real deal had but it was a touch more lively than the real thing. Now I take the grainbill from the "New World" batch 1 winner, modify the hop schedule a little, use the good candi syrups and do a separate boildown and it is REALLY good. The last one I did with this technique I accidentally mashed too high at 152f and used the Dark Candi Syrup Inc stuff and ended up with a 1.019 FG, it tasted all kinds of awesome and amazing but was just way too sweet so I threw brett at it. The next one I'm doing will basically be the same thing but mashing at 149 and with the new Candy Syrup. I renamed the recipes, added my original New World batch to my recipes folder and added more notes to the Hybrid v5 with some things that I just know to do but don't put in the notes. So hit https://www.thesaq.net/beer/recipes for the new stuff. mattdev posted:Funny, I actually pulled this recipe from HBT and I'm brewing it on Sunday. Didn't realize that it was you! Thanks! You should read my other threads about the recipe deconstruction we went through and the competition etc, some interesting blabbering about westy style quads in there. I'm a bit obsessed with quads (obviously) but luckily my wife is so awesome that one of her favorite honeymoon pictures is one of the two of us in front of In De Vrede across the street from St Sixtus.
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Oct 6, 2011 07:29
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I got 2 lbs of D180 and 1 lb of D90 for this quad, and then a pound each of D90 and D45 for some future batches.
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indigi posted:Could you talk about why the ProAm version is so different from the others? Specifically, why the drastic reduction in CaraMunich and the loss of Aromatic, Biscuit, and Chocolate altogether, and the alteration of the base malt/syrup %ages/addition of flaked adjuncts? I've always wondered about why there are (have to be?) differences when scaling up a homebrew/1bbl pilot brew batch to a full capacity brew. The proam recipe was based an older version of the recipe, and when I worked with the brewer on modifying it we had some meetings on going over his efficiency/procedures/etc that his system has and adapting my recipe. I brought over a few different batches of my beer that we had at the meeting and this version was the one that we picked as the best, which was was only a minor difference from the one that won the BJCP competition. We added some flaked barley and wheat so we'd have big fat head retention. I still do that on some beers but not on this one lately. In reality you can scale a homebrew recipe up however big you want with the only adjustments being mash efficiency and kettle hop utilization.
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Oct 6, 2011 16:24
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Jo3sh posted:Mash efficiency is easy, but since no one has any real idea what the actual IBU content of their homebrew is, how do you adjust for kettle hop utilization as volume scales? Or is that just a variable in the Tinseth (and other) formulae? Utilization rates do vary from rig to rig and process to process and from brew to brew. Those efficiency numbers are for certain calculations. While its true I don't really know the exact IBUs of my batches I know what variations in IBUs I've done on this recipe in particular (anywhere from 28 to 35 IBU, 30-31 seems to be "right") we worked on lining up our numbers and adjusting formula's until we came to something that looked like it was agreeable.
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Oct 6, 2011 17:46
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tesilential posted:Just in case anyone is on a budget out there, you can make 5 pounds of candy syrup for $3 if you already have a thermometer, which you all surely do. Thats not how the candi syrup makers mentioned in this thread make candi syrup, in fact pretty much not possible to make candi syrup like those guys do at home. Email the https://www.candisyrup.com guys if you want some details, here is an excerpt from HBT where I first started chatting with the guy. quote:Just as an insight from our tests, Randy Mosher's recipe is not an authentic, (nor a close approximation), Candi Syrup. Early on, we tried his and other permutations on the web and in print. All fail to match "authentic" Candi Syrup based on our use of gas chromatography throughout our due diligence to baseline the recipe(s). If you read the entire thread on this subject you'll note my partner is a Food Chemist. We've been trialing methods and materials for just over a year and have duplicated, (and in the opinion of some more than exceeded), the quality of the import syrups. Refined or unrefined sugars from Jaggary to Turbinado to Demerara, Beet, Cane, make no difference whatsoever. The complexity does not originate in the level of refined sucrose or lack of it or the origin of the sucrose, (Beet or Cane). If you are after a "rummy" affect then just use Sorghum. It's cheaper. If you're after something a little more complex then you'll need to use a more complex syrup. I think brewers, (including me), want the very best result from a Belgian Ale recipe. If you're interested in quality syrups and the science behind them you may look at the following volumes to give you a more empirical perspective on food flavor, especially the sections on sugars: Candi syrup is serious business
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Oct 7, 2011 07:59
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Josh Wow posted:This is the conclusion I came to as well. I wanted to make my own but everything I read said it wouldn't be close to what actual belgian breweries use. Ditto for other professional manufacturers, like the northern brewer syrup with the bad reviews. I've tried making my own several times but I don't even bother now. The difference in flavor quality between what DSI/CSI makes and what I've come up with like orders of magnitude, they aren't even like the same idea. I think some of the secrets that makes these guys stuff so good is probably related to pressure cooking and other things to control the water levels and other stuff. The CSI guy told me that they underwent over 200 trial batch productions before they thought they were getting very good and each trial batch used like 100lbs of sugar. He's a pretty cool guy, I bet he would respond to some non-proprietary related questions if you were to email him.
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Oct 7, 2011 19:14
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tesilential posted:Hey rage saq and other brewers of Belgian styles, how do you carbonate your brews? 3.5 is pretty high unless its a saison. I normally do all my Belgian beers (including most saisons) at 3.2vol/co2. Which is about 17psi at 38f. More time under co2 isn't going to hurt.
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Oct 19, 2011 07:23
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Huge_Midget posted:I had heard both good and bad things about them. I just said gently caress it and bought this Micromatic. Lets me run two separate serving pressures and if needed you can daisy chain more regulators onto it. Micromatic supremacy++
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Oct 19, 2011 21:31
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tesilential posted:Thought taprite was the pimpin Taprite is ok, but I could literally beat someone to death with a Micromatic premium regulator and then put it back on and serve some beer.
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Oct 19, 2011 23:33
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beetlo posted:Ok I need some quick translations from the Clone Brews ingredients/terminology to that of Brewmaster's Warehouse. Good enough.
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Oct 20, 2011 00:18
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So I'm making a starter for a brewday this weekend and I pull out my smallest flask that will fit 3.5L worth. I set it on the stove and kind of just take in the size of this thing and think I might have some kind of problem....  my stove is too small...
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Oct 21, 2011 06:53
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Hypnolobster posted:So, you're saying that you don't have a stirring hotplate? I do, but it takes forever to cool down I wouldn't be able to put it on before I went to bed tonight.
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Oct 21, 2011 07:21
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Docjowles posted:I have a giant 20lb tank and it owns. Probably done about 10 kegged batches and the pressure dial hasn't even moved. The only part that sucks is when I want to bring a keg to a party, hauling around this enormous tank is painful. Get a 2.5lbs, its always good to have a backup co2 tank.
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Oct 21, 2011 19:05
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RiggenBlaque posted:I'm reading this most recent BYO magazine, and I guess in last months Jamil Zainasheff posted a recipe for a maibock with an OG of 1.070 and recommended a 4 gallon starter. Someone thought it was a mistake and BYO said it wasn't: Jamil isn't pulling these numbers out of his rear end with no basis, there is a lot of science from PhD's and others on pitching rates for ales/lagers. In George Fix's publication "Principles of Brewing Science" he stated that an optimal pitching rate for healthy beers without defects you are looking at 0.75 million cells per milliliter per degree plato ales, and 1.50 million cells per milliliter per degree plato for lagers. This is for most yeasts that you would want clean fermentations with little-to-no yeast stress related flavors, and a strong vigorous ferment that behaves predictably and finishes reliably. Using this information you can figure out how much yeast you will need to pitch and then you can use the known science on yeast propogation to find out how you get that much yeast. For a 1.070 OG lager you need about 530 billion cells. Without a stir plate that amounts to an ~18 liter starter, or with a stir plate a ~8 liter starter. I didn't read the article but I am guessing he made the assumption that people with stir plates would know how to do the numbers and convert appropriately. I am doing a ~1.085 OG imperial porter this weekend and I'll need about 3L worth of yeast from a stir plate and I want to replenish my yeast bank a little so I made a 3.5L starter. Read this article from MB Raines, Ph.D on yeast propagation techniques and the effect they have on population density. You are basically screwed if you don't have a stir plate. rage-saq fucked around with this message at 20:14 on Oct 21, 2011 |
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Oct 21, 2011 20:11
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RiggenBlaque posted:To be clear I don't actually plan on making that recipe, I just saw the reader comments about it and couldn't believe what I was seeing. I think I'm bothered by the whole thing because, yes, I'm sure there is a lot of science behind it, but there is a difference between things that are achievable on a homebrew scale and things required on a commercial level. Who said its not feasible on a homebrew scale? I'm pretty sure any homebrewer who really wanted to brew a 1.070 OG lager would be able to handle all of the requirements above, and if not this would be a good reason to learn. The purpose of his statement worked, people are looking at and thinking about yeast starters more than you were previously, which could have been "not at all". For a big lager you need a shitload of yeast, and so it is more viable to do what you said and brew a small beer first and use all of that yeast. His "4 gallon starter" aka 18 liters was what you would need if you DIDN'T have a stir plate. If you do have a stir plate it would come in at about 6.7 liters, significantly less.
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Oct 21, 2011 20:44
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indigi posted:Nope! Go for it. Jamil's yeast pitching calculator has a viability calculator on it. Fresh pitching from a direct order is what most pitching rate estimates are based on. As far as the vials being direct-pitchable that makes the assumption that the beer is a 1.040-1.050 OG 5g batch, which may cover a good portion of the casual homebrewer population. Once again on the 4 gallon starter thats only if you don't have a stir plate. Jamil's website doesn't seem to scale the yield of stir plated starters very well, quickly dropping down to 50 mil/cell per ml, as opposed to the 120-150 mil/cell per ml that isn't difficult to achieve by homebrewers. As far as the "diminishing returns" goes its not a factor of the size of the starter as it is the size of the step, but I'll have to read what the yeast book said to confirm. You need a lag phase (finish fermentation, hibernate, repitch) in the yeast reproduction process when growing to certain scales to allow them to continue to do so healthily.
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Oct 21, 2011 22:25
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Finally got around to brewing a repeat of my really awesome porter I did about a year back. It takes a big page from a baltic porter grist (which is what it originally was supposed to be last time) but uses an awesome british yeast. The only thing I changed on this from the first brew was a different bittering hop as I can't get that anymore. The Profound code:
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Oct 23, 2011 06:46
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mewse posted:sorry. it's one of my favourite lines from the movie idiocracy. it's set in the future where drinking water has been replaced with a type of gatorade And watering crops too. Fun movie.
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Oct 24, 2011 02:37
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Darth Goku Jr posted:not really even coming close to an answer since i'm brewing my first ever stout of any kind next week, but to mutilate the phrase: if 1.084 to 1.022 is smaller i don't want to be big. otohI know B.O.R.I.S., a well received oatmeal RIS, (the B is bodacious) has a FG of 1.036 (holy poo poo) so I guess there is room for growth Rahr and Crisp are malsters.
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Oct 24, 2011 02:37
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tesilential posted:Edit: paging Rage Sac- With Belgians the time, temperature and maturation (aging) cycles largely depends on the yeast, but to a lesser but still significant degree the style. Two examples. My Belgian Pale ale is about 6-6.5% and done with either the Duvel (WLP570), Allagash (bottle culture) or De Konick (WLP515) yeast. I go from brewday to having it on draft in about 2 weeks. Its not a complex style or particularly strong, and the yeast pretty much knock it out in a few days, add a few days for the yeast to do a little cleanup, cold crash and then its kegged and on tap. Most of these yeasts work out pretty good at 74f until it finishes which is what I usually stick to for this style. My quad is ~10% and done with the Westmalle yeast. This is a totally different animal. I go for 78-80f for a week or two (forced heat if necessary) until it hits final gravity, then I let it cool down to about 65f for another week or two, before a 2 day cold crash and going to a co2 purged keg. Top it up with co2 and then stick it in the fermentation fridge where its going to sit in the 60s for about 2 months or until I deem it done. This beer is a different animal partly because its a much bigger beer (alcohol and gravity wise) and the yeast flavors are much more complex and require some time and patience for it to mature. As far as what you should do for your beers I'd recommend picking Brew Like A Monk as there are also many ways to get the yeast flavor that you want. They have numerous sections in the book that outline different strategies different brewers have towards getting what they want out of the yeast, and how those can mix in with the grain and hop flavors.
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Nov 4, 2011 23:34
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78f fermentation temp isn't really a problem for the Westmalle yeast. 78f ambient temp is probably somewhere int he 86-88f range which is definitely outside of its comfort zone. How were you measuring fermentation temperature? What kind of "unpleasantness" would you say it has?
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Nov 5, 2011 01:40
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tesilential posted:Measured via thermometer strip on bucket. I allow for 1-2*f higher in the center, so my strip read 77*. Could be acetaldehyde which is just a flavor of a young beer. Give it some time and it will go away.
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Nov 5, 2011 05:27
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tesilential posted:On the one hand I'm glad my beer may turn out fine, on the other I'm concerned about what process error caused this. How young are we talking? Its definitely going to take some time for a big complex beer mature properly.
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Nov 5, 2011 07:44
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Jo3sh posted:Any opinions on this plate chiller? More plates is always better, it increases the surface area for cooling. In the case of this specific plate heat exchanger I wouldn't get it. The 40 plate one is about the same price as one without goofy garden hose fittings so its not really saving you any money. Like this one that uses 1/2" NPT-F is more or less what I have. http://www.ebay.com/itm/40-Plate-Heat-Exchanger-SS304-Cu-Brazed-1-2-FPT-B3-12-/230566338993?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35aed321b1
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Nov 6, 2011 21:26
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Super Rad posted:2 questions: WLP007 is a pretty good English Barleywine yeast. Its ester character isn't particularly pronounced and it ferments out pretty well, its reliable and it floccs like a brick.
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Nov 8, 2011 01:47
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There are a number of things out there that can calculate AA loss, both webapps and something like beersmith. Vacuum bagging and freezing (-2 to -3 degrees F) makes a HUGE difference when it comes to alpha acid stability. For example 15.4% AA Warrior is about 13.6% AA after 36 months if it was vacuum bagged and stored at -3f.
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Nov 17, 2011 06:41
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tesilential posted:Wlp023=Burton ale=Thames valley=wyeast1275=poor flocculator Yeah, I just kegged my imperial porter the other day and after 3 weeks in conical and then a 1 day cold crash it wasn't totally flocced out yet. So I gave it 2 more days cold crashing and it ran off crystal clear.
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Nov 17, 2011 22:13
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Drinking my first glass of my Imperial Porter batch2 that I made about a month ago and has been in keg for almost a week. Its pretty drat awesome, pretty much what I remember from batch1, didn't change a thing other than hops. Needs a little bit more age but its already super smooth and creamy, and I probably should have bumped up the English chocolate a tiny bit to give it a little more body and chocolate but I might feel differently about it in Here is the recipe The Profound Porter I'm brewing tomorrow and couldn't figure out what I wanted to do. I had been thinking about brewing a session IPA lately but I've also been into hoppy saisons a lot so why not combine both? 5.5% abv saison with a lot of American hops, inspired by Boulevard Tank 7 but scaled down. Here's what I've got. code:
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Nov 20, 2011 02:33
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Jacobey000 posted:Went to keg today and I'm pretty sure my Cranberry Wheat is infected. Taste it and see. That doesn't really look like an infection but probably just some of the particles from the fruit floating to the surface. An infection is bubbling and has all kinds of weird white ropy things on them.
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Nov 21, 2011 18:57
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crazyfish posted:Batch #4 (belgian wit) is getting bottled this week, and I'm already starting to plan ahead for my next couple batches. I want to do one session-type batch, and one big, heavy batch to give me an excuse to buy some new equipment (like flasks for making yeast starters). Earlier in this thread I had the desire to do a Belgian dubbel, but I decided to go crazy and I'll now be doing a quad, in particular, a Westy 12 clone(ish). Since I can't do all-grain yet, I've decided to go partial mash. This guy has a lot of specialty-type grains which I think a partial mash will help a lot with. Couple of tips. I think doing a partial mash quad is pretty difficult (I tell somebody that later in that thread of mine) but liquid pilsner extract is the best bet. I think you'll want to up your % sugar to 17% to account for the unfermentables that are intentionally put into malt extract. I think your hopping rate is a little low but not being able to do a full boil really fucks with your hop utilization and IBUs. You need dark candi syrup (from either http://www.candisyrup.com or http://www.darkcandi.com) to make a good dubbel or quad. It really is the most important ingredient in making a good dubbel or quad. You can cook sugar on the stove with a candy sugar thermometer but it doesn't come out like either of the good commercial brewing candi syrups. I've tried it a bunch of times and its not even close to what either of the two companies above do. Avoid the rocks though, they are crap. Don't pitch too much yeast, some of the key date/cocoa flavors come from a slightly longer reproductive cycle on the Westmalle yeast. 200-240 billion cells for 5 gallons seems to be a sweet spot for this recipe. If you have some kind of o2 stone I'd skip it for this beer as that will also hold off some of the good Belgian yeast esters that you want. Make sure the yeast ferments at least up at 78f fermentation temp and be able to hold it steady there. A generous application of fermcap when its really starting to get going keeps everything in check. I know a few people who have done that beer with some kind of open fermentation (low head pressure) and have had interesting results but its not really for me. Reading my old thread kind of reminds me I haven't updated the OP in a long time with some of continued experiments trying to get the perfect quad. I'll have to clean it up some. rage-saq fucked around with this message at 07:19 on Nov 22, 2011 |
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Nov 22, 2011 07:15
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I have a 6.25g bourbon barrel that I've had for a while. After the 2nd batch the bourbon character was gone but the oak character still comes in with enough time. I use it for sours, its pretty hard to use a barrel for beer for more than one batch and not have it get an infection. As far as getting a barrel and keeping it from getting infected, make sure that the barrel is emptied, bunged, packaged and shipped to you and filled with beer in as short a time as possible. Even then getting an infection is a risk. We had a club project where we were careful with a 55g brandy barrel and filled it up with an 11% wee heavy pretty quickly and it still got infected. Fast forward a year or two and its a pretty incredible sour wee heavy with a nice brandy character.
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Nov 23, 2011 19:44
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CaptBubba posted:Looks like I got my first infection, likely due to accidentally leaving the airlock off for nearly an hour while I was doing things around the kitchen and racking other batches. It looks like a small mold island (it is a bit green in the center but it doesn't show well in a photo) along with a film over the top of everything. I threw it into the fridge at 38 degrees and it has stopped growing so I hope I can rack from under it, force carbonate, and then drink. That doesn't look like an infection, could just be some residue of something.  This is a pellicle, the sign of lots of bugs and wild yeast.
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Dec 2, 2011 20:29
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RiggenBlaque posted:Hey Saq, I was using your yeast spreadsheet and it looks like your entry for WY3068 is slightly off. Yours says the temperature range is 68-72 and the WY website says 64-72. I hope it's actually lower than that, because I'm fermenting this weizenbock at 62*. I'm not sure who did the data entry for that one but iirc all the wyeast stuff was taken off their website. There is a page for form responses where you can send updates/corrections built in, look in the top left cell. I'll change the temp range.
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Dec 14, 2011 18:39
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Jo3sh posted:There is nothing harmful that can live in beer Stuff CAN live in beer that smells bad (some gross wild yeasts and bacterias, some of which ARE intentionally used in sour beers) but none of it is going to poison you, just taste pretty bad.
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Dec 16, 2011 01:30
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Somehow, only today did I realize that there should be a goon beer/brewing related channel, so I created one. #beer on irc.synirc.org
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Dec 20, 2011 00:45
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Midorka posted:I posted a while back about getting this kit and no one had a bad thing to say about it. That more or less is the standard homebrewer basic starter kit that has a lot of the bits and pieces that make brewing easier. You still need a pot, a wort chiller and possibly a propane burner depending upon how you were planning on heating stuff up. The best thing to do before you buy a kit is get involved in the local homebrewing community and help some guys brew, you'll get a good idea of what kind of parts you need and a little practical experience for doing your first brew.
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Dec 26, 2011 20:00
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Midorka posted:I'm so glad I joined a local homebrewers group. There's a guy who is a manager at a homebrew store and has been brewing for a while who lives near me. He contacted me and we've been talking and I think we have the same goals in the long run. We're going to brew together sometime in the near future and see where things go! A budding brewmance, how cute!
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Dec 29, 2011 19:43
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