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So does anyone have any experience with Nelson Sauvin hops? I recently ordered a pound of them because they were just harvested, and I am making Tomme Arthur's Saison Blanc. I've read that they have a very unique, grape-y flavor to them. Our local homebrew club is going to be doing a SMaSH series next month to showcase a bunch of different hop profiles, basically Maris Otter, Safale US-05, and 40 IBUs of hops in a basic American pale. I'm going to try it with the Nelsons.
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# ¿ Sep 17, 2011 17:45 |
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# ¿ May 2, 2024 14:00 |
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Have a style question for the folks here in the thread. Earlier I mentioned that I was going to be making Tomme Arthur's Saison Blanc recipe, which is as follows:quote:5.5 lbs Pale Two Row Malt I was inputting this recipe into BeerSmith 2.0 to turn it into a brewday log, and according to the BJCP style guide for category 16C Saison, this beer is going to be like 75 IBUs, and the style is supposed to be 20-35 IBUs. I know that saisons are the "original" hoppy beers, but 75 seems way too high. Anyone ever brewed this recipe or something similar? I'm considering adjusting the hop additions to something more tame in the 35-40 IBU range, but I don't want to deviate too far from the recipe.
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# ¿ Sep 23, 2011 15:20 |
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Hypnolobster posted:Well, I finally got off my rear end and threaded some pipe and built the 3 burner setup for my brewstand. I've been using 3 different hoses and regulators and 2 tanks all damned summer and it's horrible. Now I'm running one 100lb(!!) tank, one 30 psi regulator and 3 burners off of a manifold. 3/8" pipe and I can run the burners at different levels at the same time. Where did you get/what did you use for insulation wrap on your mash tun?
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# ¿ Sep 24, 2011 05:12 |
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Got my homemade stir plate built!
Huge_Midget fucked around with this message at 03:29 on Oct 8, 2011 |
# ¿ Oct 8, 2011 03:27 |
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mattdev posted:All citra hopped beer Sorry dude, Zombie Dust and Wet are both loving delicious.
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# ¿ Oct 17, 2011 06:14 |
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Prefect Six posted:Has anyone had any problems with the in-house regulators that kegconnection sells? Not that it's really going to save me all that much money. I had heard both good and bad things about them. I just said gently caress it and bought this Micromatic. Lets me run two separate serving pressures and if needed you can daisy chain more regulators onto it.
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# ¿ Oct 19, 2011 21:08 |
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I managed to snag a pound each of Amarillo, Citra, and Cascade. I am freaking out right now though because I also need Simcoe. Were they available today from HopsDirect or are they not out yet?
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# ¿ Oct 25, 2011 05:13 |
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Brewed 6 gallons of imperial porter yesterday evening. First time using White Labs Servomyces, heavy pre-fermentation oxygenation, and the first time I have made a starter with my new DIY stir plate. OG 1.090, White Labs WLP007 Dry English Ale yeast. To say I have an active fermentation is a bit of an understatement. 3 hours after pitching it was partying like a rock star. http://youtu.be/Y3uYmoVdZzA
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# ¿ Oct 31, 2011 00:06 |
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NerdPolice posted:I received a Festa Brew kit as a gift and I'm going to try a few of these before moving onto "real" brewing. Just wondering about sterilization... If StarSan is available where you live, that's all you'll need for sanitation. That and some OxyClean Free to take on the really nasty gunk.
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# ¿ Nov 24, 2011 01:13 |
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I have a fun question for the homebrewing gurus on here. Our homebrew club just finished a barrel project where we aged Denny Conn's vanilla imperial porter recipe in a Jack Daniel's barrel for the better part of 6 months. Now, I unfortunately do not have my kegging setup done yet, and I need to bottle around 18 gallons of this porter. I'm assuming that after 7 months that the yeast is no longer active or viable, and that I need to figure out how to get viable yeast and enough sugar to bottle carb this beer. The porter is currently being stored in 3 separate 6.5 gallon carboys, and my bottling bucket holds 7 gallons. Any suggestions on the best way to go about doing this? Should I just buy another vial of the Denny Conn yeast strain and make a starter on my stirplate, divide it into thirds, pitch into the carboys, then add the appropriate amount of corn sugar solution to the bottling bucket, then bottle?
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# ¿ Nov 24, 2011 20:58 |
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GonadTheBallbarian posted:So, bottling/conditioning my black IPA tonight, but I can't get a straight answer on conditioning... The dude at the brew shop said 1oz of sucrose per gallon of beer, but the book linked in the OP puts it at about 2-2.5oz for my slightly-less-than 5gal brew. http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/recipator/recipator/carbonation.html Based on 2.0 units of CO2 for the IPA style, 4.6 gallons of beer using corn sugar to bottle prime calls for 2.7 ounces. Dissolve that in a few cups of boiling water and put it in your sanitized bottling bucket first, rack the beer into the bucket on the priming sugar, then bottle.
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# ¿ Nov 29, 2011 01:20 |
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I don't get all the hate for glass carboys. Ease of cleaning, no oxygen permeability, and ability to examine the beer is worth the extra weight IMO. You just need to be careful and not have piss poor upper body strength and you are golden. Also, plastic milk crates fit 5, 6, and 6.5 gallon carboys like a glove. Best way ever to lift and move them, and provides some decent impact protection.
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# ¿ Dec 13, 2011 16:40 |
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Trip report: Just tasted my bourbon vanilla imperial porter. I had a 20 gallon share that was in a club project that aged in a Jack Daniel's barrel for 6 months. I then took 6 gallons of that barrel aged imperial porter, and blended it with 6 gallons of the same imperial porter recipe that we brewed a month ago, except that porter was aged with 2 Tahitian vanilla beans and medium toast french oak cubes that were soaked in Makers' 46 for 6 months. The blend is one of the most delicious beers I've ever had. A great roasty, chocolatey backbone that is complimented by some oak tannins from the barrel and oak cubes, that great bourbon flavor, and the vanilla aroma ties it altogether. We did a side by side with the porter that was just aged in the Jack Daniel's barrel and the difference is noticeable. The straight barrel aged porter is very good, more roasty and oakey than the blend. But the blend is just outta this loving world.
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# ¿ Dec 15, 2011 07:24 |
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Homemade stir plate Grain Mill Immersion chiller, 10 gallon Blichmann Boilermaker mash tun, mash paddle 15 gallon hot liquor tank / boil kettle and burner Prep station and supplies Mash tun, immersion chiller, scaffolding brew stand, carboys Fermentation fridge / kegerator that I am finishing today
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# ¿ Jan 14, 2012 17:41 |
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Are you putting your chiller in with the boil the last 10 minutes? Physics dictates that 10 minutes of contact with boiling wort should sanitize your chiller no problem.
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# ¿ Feb 2, 2012 13:52 |
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I'm working on a mega fruity, citrus, piney double IPA recipe for this spring/summer. Anyone with experience with the style please feel free to chime in and critique it. Here's the first revision of the recipe (10 gallon, all grain w/ yeast starter):code:
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# ¿ Feb 9, 2012 00:51 |
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LeeMajors posted:So I'm in need of a bit of troubleshooting advice. Generally when you taste oxidation the hop flavors are really muted and it kind of tastes like wet cardboard or paper.
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# ¿ Feb 9, 2012 02:43 |
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jwh posted:Hello goons, Docjowles posted:Someone correct me if this isn't the case, but I believe some hops are proprietary to the farm that developed them, sort of like how pharmaceutical companies get the exclusive right to sell a drug. Many of the signature American hops right now, like Citra, Simcoe and Amarillo fall into this bucket. With every freaking brewer in the US clamoring for huge amounts of these hops to make their Double Imperial IPAs, demand greatly exceeds supply and everyone sells out the second the harvest hits the market. Citra is a proprietary hop varietal that only a few farms have license to produce. It also has the distinction of probably being the "hottest" hop right now. Everyone wants it, and supply is extremely limited. SN Torpedo and 3Floyds Zombie Dust are two popular beers that use Citra. I bought 3 pounds each of Citra, Amarillo, Cascade, and Simcoe at the hop harvest this year because those are the "sexy" hop varieties that make up many IPA/DIPAs. Many of these hop varieties run out from homebrew suppliers shortly after harvest time because they are so highly sought after. I made that mistake my first year homebrewing, now I buy in bulk and vaccuum seal and deep freeze hops for storage.
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# ¿ Feb 9, 2012 17:44 |
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Angry Grimace posted:Now that I've got my all-grain equipment coming, I need to figure out what to make first. Any suggestions on what I should try to brew first - I'm assuming I should make something relatively simple until I get the process down? My first all grain was a 3 Floyds Gumballhead clone. 2 row, wheat, and Amarillo all the way.
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# ¿ Feb 10, 2012 23:54 |
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mewse posted:The page you linked is for 5 gallons, did you get the proper quantities for your mr beer's capacity? Just as a piece of info, you can store crushed grains much longer than a week or two. As long as you store them in some kind of air tight container you can store them for months. I stored a bunch of crushed grain for an imperial porter for almost 6 months and they were fine.
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# ¿ Mar 28, 2012 22:30 |
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Anyone worried about breaking a glass carboy, I have one awesome piece of advice. Get yourself some plastic milk crates. They are the best thing ever for holding 6.5 and 5 gallon carboys. the 6.5 gallon ones fit like a glove, and make carrying them so much easier. They also absorb shock well enough to prevent most major disasters.
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# ¿ Mar 31, 2012 03:01 |
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crazyfish posted:I'm thinking about trying a pseudo-lager sometime soon. In the homebrew secret santa, my santa sent me an absolutely phenomenal triple decoction Vienna lager. While I don't have the setup to do either a lager or a decoction mash (all-grain on my stovetop), I think I can sort of half attempt to approximate it by doing a step mash (which I most definitely can do) and either using a super clean ale yeast or a lager yeast at ale temps (according to an episode of Brewing TV, Wyeast's bavarian lager strain works for this). I think I'd be able to keep the temp around 60-62 or so through most of the ferment with a swamp cooler. Has anyone ever done a pseudo-lager before? Look into making a Kolsch. It straddles the line between lagers and ales.
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# ¿ Apr 9, 2012 17:43 |
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You got that recipe handy, il serpente?
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# ¿ Apr 10, 2012 17:19 |
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crazyfish posted:What are everyone's favourite brewing books? So far I've read through all of Brew Like A Monk and Designing Great Beers. I liked BLAM. While DGB was a very good reference, it was pretty dry. I've gotten into all-grain recently, and I think I'd like a book that has some stuff on mashing theory (how the different steps work, etc.) and books on how to formulate recipes. Any recommendations? Randy Mosher's Radical Brewing is a really good book.
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# ¿ Apr 11, 2012 01:45 |
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Thermapen is the only thermometer you'll ever need for anything, both brewing and cooking related.
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# ¿ Apr 17, 2012 15:11 |
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It's basic gas law. Most gasses are more soluble in colder liquids. Which is why if you fill a growler or glass, it will foam less the colder the glass is.
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# ¿ Apr 17, 2012 17:38 |
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Burner chat time! I'm going to be upgrading to a new burner soon. I've been trying to do my homework on them, and I think I am leaning towards the Bayou Classic KAB6. It's got a 22" stand, and can support up to 40 gallon pots. Right now I am rocking a 15 gallon kettle that is 18 inches wide. The Blichmann is also on the short list, mainly for its advertised ability to convert to natural gas. I have the plumbing for a gas line in my garage where I brew, so I have been thinking about switching to a natural gas setup, but the Blichmann goes from like 72k BTU to 60k switching it to natural gas. The KAB6 is rated at 210k (holy crap). What are you guys all using? Seems like the 10 and 23 jet tip natural gas burners they sell on Bayou Classic are problematic judging by what people say about them.
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# ¿ Apr 22, 2012 05:12 |
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Sirotan posted:I'm not sure how much I like either of those options. I've got it straddling two burners now and its jusssttttt boiling. I really can't imagine the cost of my electric bill if I was doing this with every available burner. I might just compromise and start doing 3gal batches of beer instead of 5 when I start on all-grain, and just suck it up until I move and have an outdoor space where I can use propane. In my old pot I was able to get 3gal to a vigorous boil without an issue, so 4/4.5 should be ok, maybe. Don't worry man, we all go through that. Stick to 3 gallon batches on a stovetop for now. Once you get a propane burner doing full boils are much easier. Stick with it though, it's an awesome hobby.
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# ¿ May 2, 2012 03:23 |
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Sirotan posted:I think I have this stove: http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...SkuId=202603368 It's a Hotpoint, which is apparently a re-branded GE product. The elements are 2x8" and 2x something smaller that I didn't measure last night. The 8" elements have 5 coils already. I think I'll try out the canning element though, for $15 I might as well. Hey if we organize some kind of northeast IN / Southern MI meetup to drink beer, I have a spare propane burner that I don't need anymore. It's yours if you want it, I'll sell it cheap.
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# ¿ May 2, 2012 15:33 |
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My new Blichmann Beergun arrived today. Going to find out how well it works in a few weeks when I bottle off a Dortmunder export lager and an imperial IPA. Anyone have any tips or tricks for using one?
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# ¿ May 2, 2012 22:24 |
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Assuming you have nice healthy yeast let that poo poo sit in the primary for a month. That way the yeast will clean up nicely after themselves, you won't have to worry about diacetyl, and the yeast cake should compact nicely when you rack it over. Last winter I did Denny Conn's imperial porter, sat in primary for a month then I racked it to secondary on a whole split and scraped Tahitian vanilla bean and an ounce of medium toast French oak cubes that I had soaking in Maker's Mark 46 for 6 months. Let's just say that everyone that tried that beer wouldn't stop raving about how good it was.
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# ¿ May 12, 2012 18:00 |
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Jo3sh posted:Shiny bits arrived via UPS just now: Where do you order the quick connects from?
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# ¿ Jun 6, 2012 04:43 |
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nominal posted:I'm about to do a Biere de Garde here in a few weeks or so (as my first all-grain batch, woohoo!). I was wondering about bottling after the doing 4 weeks or so of cold-conditioning, though. Will my yeast still be alive and awake enough to carbonate the stuff, or will I need to add some more at bottling? The yeast should be fine after 4 weeks. Warm them up to room temperature, add your priming sugar, and give them 2 weeks at room temp to do their thing.
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# ¿ Jun 6, 2012 05:51 |
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nominal posted:Nearly done with first all-grain brewday! It's much, much easier than I would have figured, say, 6 months ago. I had a lot of help from watching a local brewdude and forum goon run through an ESB, which made things much less intimidating. I kind of wish I never tried to read the all-grain section of How to Brew until AFTER I tried actually doing it, because all the math he throws down makes it seem really complicated. Of course, BeerSmith helps with that simplification quite a bit. I'm glad things went smooth for you man. I just got my third regulator and gas manifold to finish my kegerator, so I'm doing that this weekend and then consolidating some kegs. Wanna do a saison soon?
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# ¿ Jun 22, 2012 04:40 |
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Sirotan posted:After watching the video above your post I retract my previous statement. Also, holy gently caress. Yeah if your OG is above 1.080 I'd highly suggest a blowoff tube. This is a video of an imperial porter I made that was around 1.079 OG. https://www.facebook.com/v/10150906382995486 Huge_Midget fucked around with this message at 01:00 on Sep 11, 2012 |
# ¿ Sep 11, 2012 00:56 |
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Made 10 gallons of Scottish 80 schilling last night, great night to brew. Taught some friends how it's done and got pretty blitzed. In a few weeks I'm going to have 2 carboys with nice yeast cakes of WLP028 Edinburgh Ale, any suggestions on what I should brew to pitch on top of them?
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# ¿ Sep 15, 2012 22:18 |
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A starter is just a roughly 1.030 gravity DME + water mixture that you boil for 10 minutes. Why wouldn't you add the whole amount of liquid and yeast to your batch? Setting aside the ridiculous numbers that Jamil suggests on Mr. Malty, I did a starter for my last batch. It was 11 gallons of 1.050 OG Scottish 80 shilling, and I only had to make 1.5 liters of 1.030 unhopped wort that I pitched 1 vial of WLP028 into. I split the batch between two 6.5 gallon carboys and added roughly 750 mL of the starter to each. I didn't know that people decanted their starters unless they were making some really ridiculously large amount.
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# ¿ Sep 24, 2012 20:46 |
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I guess I take for granted that I keep my house at 67 degrees year round. I also add a small amount of yeast nutrient to the starter, to really boost it. I've tasted starter before and it tastes like DME based wort plus yeast. It's no worse than what you get if you drink the yeast sludge off the bottom of a bottle-conditioned bottle of beer.
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# ¿ Sep 24, 2012 22:31 |
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Anyone have some suggestions on what I could brew to pitch onto some WLP028 yeast cakes that I just used to make a Scottish 80 shilling ale? I have a 10 gallon system, and I was wanting to use the two healthy yeast cakes that I have in the bottom of 2 of my 6.5 gallon carboys.
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# ¿ Sep 30, 2012 18:23 |
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# ¿ May 2, 2024 14:00 |
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Made a holiday maple brown ale yesterday that I pitched onto a fresh yeast cake of WLP028 that I had just used for a Scottish 80 shilling. 6 gallons of 1.083 OG beer + lots of healthy yeast = https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QHSgZAnEWIY
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# ¿ Oct 7, 2012 19:05 |