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clutchpuck
Apr 30, 2004
ro-tard

Whodat Smith-Jones posted:

How does a racking cane even work without an auto-siphon?



You put the racking cane through one stem and blow through the other to create pressure inside the carboy, starting the siphon. People are often worried about infection with this but this is how I always start it and I've never had an infected batch. Just don't slobber into it and maybe brush your teeth once and a while I guess?

Unrelated, I've been evicted from the refrigerator so I have a project going. I'm into this kegerator project about $160, though I already had the kegging stuff. I brew tonight (a rauched CDA!!!) so final assembly will be later this week. First keg going in it is the CDA I'm brewing tonight, right after Labor Day.

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clutchpuck
Apr 30, 2004
ro-tard

awdeetdeet posted:

I have a first time 5 gallon batch of Munton's wheat going for the last 2 weeks now. I took it out of the fermentation chamber to see that the top 2/3 are a darker clear color and the bottom third is a lighter cloudy tone. I'm assuming this means it need more time fermenting? Or is this normal? The airlock doesn't bubble at all anymore.

2 weeks is plenty of time, I can almost always keg a low-gravity batch after 1 week.

What you're seeing is yeast in suspension, it falls to the bottom after active fermentation is over. Since it's clearer on top, this is a pretty good clue that your beer is done in primary.

If you want it to clear up, you can put it in secondary for a couple more weeks or cold crash it, but wheat beer is fine a little cloudy.

clutchpuck
Apr 30, 2004
ro-tard

Super Rad posted:

Since then we have been using our CO2 tank to get the siphon started - our quick disconnect for the tank just happens to perfectly fit the second "nipple" on the carboy hood and has made siphoning totally painless ever since.

That's a pretty good tip, thanks.

clutchpuck
Apr 30, 2004
ro-tard
Once the siphon is going, you can take the carboy off pressure entirely - when I blow, it's really just a momentary push and once it starts flowing, gravity takes care of the rest.

But maybe that's how you are doing it and I am misunderstanding.

clutchpuck
Apr 30, 2004
ro-tard
Kegged my blackberry pale wheat ale tonight with juice from berries I picked this afternoon and pasteurized.

Warm flat sample indicates I got close to what I wanted. Nice tart berry flavor, rose color.

clutchpuck fucked around with this message at 15:35 on Aug 30, 2012

clutchpuck
Apr 30, 2004
ro-tard
I switched to a 14ft line and my foam problems went away. It's also extra handy for picnic/camping dispening to run the excess line coiled through an ice bath to have it nice and cold all day long even before the keg chills.

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clutchpuck
Apr 30, 2004
ro-tard
Looking for some advice concerning a possibly stalled batch:

I brewed some sort of beer on Saturday at a friend's house... 6 lb wheat malt, 4 lb 2-row, 1 lb crystal 20, probably way too much Amarillo and Cascade hops (my favorite combination of way too much hops), and Wyeast 1007 German Ale http://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_yeaststrain_detail.cfm?ID=150 pitched at 70f.

The yeast took a while to bulge the pack after I slapped it, which worried me a bit, though it was cold where we were working. I put it near the space heater and it did start to bulge up before I pitched it.

I was told that it was bubbling happily the day after brewing but slowed down pretty abruptly by the time I got there on Monday and I saw about a 1-2cm thick krausen. I usually use American Ale 1056 and see happy bubbling for 24-48 hours or so after brewing and about triple the krausen. There was a good cake at the bottom and it WAS bubbling, but maybe once every ten or so seconds; definitely slower than I am accustomed to at that point. Ferm-o-meter said 68-70f which is good.

Wyeast says it is a low-flocculating yeast and it matures quickly; should I not worry about the apparent stall and keep on keeping on, or maybe I should pitch more? What do you think?

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